Berlin to Paris
Out of the East, INTO WESTERN EUROPE
Crossing the line where the wall once stood.

This portion of our Journal is a trip through many of the countries that decided not to join The USA in the “Coalition of the Willing” in the war against Iraq. We have received a lot of questions about how we have been treated by the Germans but more so, the French. Many of our friends forward French jokes. My Sister, Joan who lives in the heart of Oregon is adamant about her dislike for the French. We don’t get it? No one mentions Russia who also chose out. Even Germany has taken a back seat. What about the heart of this area, Belgium and Holland? WHY FRANCE? We have been in France for more than 3 weeks at this writing. Everyone has received us graciously in all of these countries. No one has ever confronted us as to why our country chose to go to war!

We’re glad that American Hero, Lance Armstrong decided to come to France! As we write, he is in Yellow Jersey territory and we hope he stays there. He is well respected and liked here. In fact, the French seem to love bicycles and cyclists. We love the country roads, the food and most of all, the wine!!! BON LECTURE

Monday, May 26, 2003
Berlin to Potsdam
46 Kilometers

Even leaving the shutters ajar didn’t bring enough light into our nest to awaken us early. Loading the bags and breakfast then off to the Bicycle Shop. Remo was there and he was apologetic. It took almost an hour for him to break the two wheels down and change out the tubes. Back to the Apartment, we stuffed the bags and loaded them. We were finally out the door by 11:30 and wound our way back past a Garbage Truck and the bottleneck it was causing. Then, at Greifswalder Strasser (Street) Cat noticed that I was missing one of my tie down straps. Back to the Apartment and there it was, on the ground near the door. Strapped down, we were off to the West. Tour of Apartment

Berlin is a nice place. The city is functional as are many of the newer buildings. Our Apartment was in East Berlin and the neighborhood is being reborn or Gentrified as the folks in Chicago called it. Lots of buildings being re-done, inside and out. Also quite a bit of roadwork on the street leading to AlexanderPlatz. Once we jogged over to Unter den Linden we were on our way to Potsdam. The street changes names frequently, after we passed under the Brandenburg Gate it became Strasse des 17 Juni. We witnessed 4 guys doing a B.A. photo at the Bismarck Memorial. Young ones just having fun, we think. The Victory Column stands in the center of the Strasser and it soon changes to Bismarck Strasser then Kaiser Damm.

 

Headed West

We stopped to get direction and a toilet for Cat. That led to lunch on the sidewalk with a nice young girl who has just finished her studies and was in Berlin visiting friends. She will begin University in October.

Onward, on Highway 2-5 then a bridge over the river Spandau. Shortly we made a turn to the left on 2, south toward Potsdam. Most of the ride through Berlin and even the countryside is on bike paths adjacent to the highway. A few times we were on the road and once, lost. We pulled up and were shocked to when we saw a sign for Potsdam pointing back in the direction we had just come from. Yes, two nice guys confirmed that we had missed the turn, 4 km back. Geez, we hate to back track. The miss occurred when we took a bike path that wound through a beautiful residential neighborhood. Okay, we were back on path but the path was cobblestone and fairly busy. We bumped along then got back on a wonderful path and it took us into Potsdam. Sort of lost again, we asked and the guy suggested ahead two blocks to find the Tourist Info Center. A stop at a fruit stand for bananas and a nice lady told us that the Info Center had been closed. We made our way down the walking street then left and up to the door of Hotel Voltaire. Our first home on the way to Paris.

The following is added as insight to the difficulty of the search for food and Internet.

The desk suggested a fish restaurant just a few blocks down the street. It is pleasant to walk in historic feeling places like this but we don’t really need the exercise. Der Butt, (before you jump to conclusions, it means The Boat) was closed. So, we walked toward where they said the Internet Café was located. Lost, we went into the Library where the security guard tried and failed, then a young girl helped give directions. When she raised her arm to point the way she exposed a hole in the armpit of her dress. We did finally find the place. It was full of students, smoking students. We had wine, bad wine and checked in. Hungry, we just read and saved then headed out on a search for food. A Thai Restaurant drew us in but the smoke and fast food menu drove us back out. The red checkered table cloths drew is in, the smell of Pizza kept us there.

May 27, 2003
Potsdam to Brandenburg
40 Kilometers

Awoke early then turned over and slept. Finally out for breakfast by 9:00 AM. With maps in hand we talked to the girl at the desk and scoped out the best tourist things to see. Finally off at 10:00 AM, our first stop was Shloss Cecilienhof. Most of the road is cobblestone and tough to ride. We were accompanied by a steady stream of tour buses. At the gate the nice guard told us that it is okay to take the bikes in and ride them. Just be careful or walk them if there are a lot of people in the area. Cobble, Cobble

As we entered we met a platoon of military brass walking and talking as they passed. Lots of different uniforms, lots of different languages. Two Admirals from the US Navy and an Air Force Officer were discussing President Truman as they passed. The Air Force guy was saying that, “Although Truman didn’t have much education he had an innate ability to understand complex situations and come up with workable solutions.” I wanted to break in and see what their mission was. We talked and decided to see the exterior but pass on the interior tour. The place was built in 1917 designed as an English country house. The owner, Crown Prince Wilhelm, son of Wilhelm II had to flee during the revolution of 1918 but returned and lived in the home until 1944. The reason the Military Brass were here is that this is the place of the famous Potsdam Conference of 1945. This is where the three allied powers met and drew up the treaty that cut Germany up, like so many pieces like a pie. This historic spot is where the world was changed by Franklin D. Roosevelt, Sir Winston Churchill and Josef Stalin. Josef obviously hosted as there is a red star of flowers in the front yard. It was planted that way for the conference.

By the time we finished our look around we decided that the Brass were long gone so we cycled through the beautiful park to Marmor Palais, the summer home. It is in a state of disrepair but we did take a self-portrait there. There is a pyramid that we think might house the remains of some of the by-gone Royalty.

Back out on the street we worked our way through traffic to Park Sanssouci. The Estate was named for an idea of the Architect, von Knobelsdorff. He had spent time at an estate called Kummerfrei, as a boy, which was then loosely translated to the French, San Souci, which means, “without care”.

There was a bottleneck of traffic at the driveway and an honest to goodness windmill just across the street. A fellow in costume played the flute on the walkway, probably reminiscent of King Friedrich II was himself was an accomplished flautist. This guy was looking for a few coins, it looks like Fred II had plenty of those. Schloss Sanssouci was designed by Fred II and built between 1763 and 1769. This, the new palace with its 300 rooms, was Fred’s idea of how to create jobs and generate work for the building industry. Hmmmm??? Well, today it does generate lots of tourist Euros. Friederich “The Great” lived here and surrounded himself with leading thinkers, statesmen and philosophers. However, neither women nor Parsons were welcome at Sans Souci. (Does that speak to his non-religious and sexual preferences?) He died here in 1786 but his wish to be buried at Sans Souci wasn’t recognized until 1991. He lies here now, surrounded by his ever-present friends, his eleven Great Dane dogs.

 

	Buried with Best Friends

We cycled down the steep walkway with its six terraces, passed the fountain and pool, across the bridge and into the Park. Chineisches Haus is also called the China Tea House. It is ornate and was built during the mid 1750s. The grounds are wonderful, we enjoyed the green, the sun and quiet on the dirt paths. Once outside it’s boundaries we were cast upon cobblestones then into the traffic of Highway 1. Most of the ride we spent on the side walk or bike path. It is slow riding but perhaps less bumpy than the cobbles or the edge of the paved roadway.

 Lost in a Maze

A serious looking walker passed on the opposite side of the street, then another and another. Soon we could see several, singles or grouped. A van passed, slowed and turned. The sign said, “Lisbon to Moscow Walk.” We were stopped to apply sun screen so I ran across the road and hailed him. Yes, it is called the Trans Europe Footrace, walked in 64 stages. But, the biggest surprise was Jurgen, he is German but has lived in Huntington Beach, California since 1962. We exchange brief stories and cards then he had to hurry on his way. Another of those small world encounters but we bet that the walkers don’t think it is such a small world!

Onward, we finally pulled up for lunch at a small park. There was a group of young boys trying to ride a bike and skateboard on a ramp. They gathered round and talked with us. Mike, Joey, Stephan and a couple of others. They were fun to talk or should I say try to talk with. Stephan is 14 years old. He pulled out a cigarette and puffed. We told the others that Raunchen is Stinkin’. (Smoking stinks) They laughed, he finally put out his weed.

There were two older gals out for exercise who sat across the park from us. We acknowledged them and they us. A third rode up on a bike, shook their hands then they sat and talked. What a beautiful day to walk, bike and talk with friends.

As we rode on we came upon Joey riding the freestyle bike and carrying two backpacks. He was wobbling all over the path. We talked as we rode. He is a very nice young boy. When he turned off at his home he called out, “Have a nice bike tour!”

 Joey on the Trail

Our plans to cycle another 30 Km passed Brandenburg began to crumble just like the roadway. There was so much roadwork in one area that we had to walk the bikes. It lasted more than 6 Km and slowed us to a snails pace.

It was 3:30 when we finally wheeled into Brandenburg, the town that the gate in Berlin is named for. Then the same old story and the same old search, for the Tourist Info Center. We asked and were sent in one direction. Doubting, we asked again and were sent back. We followed Cat’s intuition and found Nicolai Platz but no Info Center. I asked a gal in a Real Estate Office, she was helpful but spoke no English. Finally she looked in the phone book for an address then made a copy of her only map and highlighted the way, back across the bridge and through town. We followed her directions and voila, we found it. The lady there also spoke no English but did get us a list of hotels and pensions. We chose one just down the street. As we cycled I spotted the address, there was no sign. We parked and I walked into the tiny restaurant to ask. A really nice guy, perhaps Brazilian, said, “Yes, this is Pension. Yes, we have room.” It was 40€, cute as can be and they helped us push and pull the bikes into the courtyard and the ground floor hallway. We have to pass a chicken coupe on the way in. This is really livin’!

 Julian Speaks English

Dinner at the Hotel restaurant, pretty good. The waiter, who looks Brazilian, is actually from Tunis. Funny, he felt he should bring the fish out for us to see. He came to the table with a bag of brand name frozen fish in the freezer bag. We bought and it was great. He and the chef were fun and did a good job, too.

Chicken Coup Hotel

Chicks, Shoes & Sewing Machines  

May 28, 2003
Brandenburg to Burg
70 Km with the Canal trip

The rooster must have slept in, we did too. There was a big duck and 8 hens scratching around as we pushed out of the courtyard. Rather than breakfast we decided to have coffee and pastries at a stand up table, how European! It threatened rain but didn’t. We took a side trip to get a picture with a giant knight we had seen yesterday. It looks old and the sign we couldn’t read mentioned King Otto and 978 AD but we don’t think it is that old. It probably just commemorates that old event.

We wheeled right along, 30 Km through forest and farmland, into Genthin. We had covered ¾ the distance in an hour and a half that took us all day, yesterday. Wanting to try riding on the dike, next to the Elbe-Havel Kanal, we did the ask, ask thing until we found a bike shop. The guys there couldn’t speak any English but did have a cycling map, which they sold us. Then as we asked how to get to the Dike a guy came in who spoke English. After a short conversation, Kant said something in German and the guy said, “Follow him.” We couldn’t believe that he was going to lead us to the route.

From that point it was just follow Kant, through the village, past the Radhaus, the city hall and down the street. There were a lot of kids in strange clothing hanging around. Kant finally got the point across that it was graduation day. He led us to a small street and pointed. We shook hands and headed west as he rode back to his shop.

Mpeg 067 Bike Guide, Kant

At the corner was a Penny Market with a small café. We stopped and had bratwurst, a huge hot dog with a roll and pile of mustard. Good but not enough so we each had a small pizza sort of thing. It was rich, the sausage tasted like summer sausage to me.

The road into the countryside soon broke down to bumpy asphalt then large slabs of concrete in two rows. Finally it was dirt and we were about to turn back when a Postal truck turned toward us. I waved the driver down, she was helpful with hand and sign language. We pressed onward, into a two-rut road then single rut path. Finally we climbed the dike and found more of the concrete slabs with brick down the middle. The brick path was narrow and had lots of bumpy areas of loose brick. Progress was slow. We started running into other cyclists. A group of 3, Rainer, Harald and Ulli stopped and we talked. They are on a one-week ride from Leipzig back to their hometown of Hamburg. Most of the other groups waved and said hello but didn’t want to stop and we were pretty tired of the duck and dodging of potholes.

 

	Africa Training	DikeRiders2

There is little development along the canal. A couple of villages off to the left and finally we reached Rogatz, a village on the opposite side of the canal serviced by a ferryboat. We turned left there, changed our plan and when we reached the highway, backtracked 2 Km to Burg. It is still 29 Km to Madgeburg. We passed several Hotels as we sought the Tourist Info Office. Once there we found little info so backtracked to a Hotel we had seen that advertised a restaurant in the info. Nice place, nice lady but no restaurant. She said there was one just down the street. It was late, we showered then Cat walked to the other restaurant only to find that it too was closed.

It was upsetting to us. We had to take a Taxi and pay 5€ each way but as in all situations, it led us to Ristorante Raffaello where we had a great meal and met Uta and Pia. They are a couple of wild ones, or were in their younger days. They met when they discovered that they were both dating the same guy. They confronted him then, with a little help from their friends, they beat him up and became best of friends. Pia is now married but Uta is still playing it fast and loose in Sidney, Australia. She has been there 3 years and is home for just 3 weeks. Pia spoke no English so Uta, in her Aussie accent, talked and translated for us. Friends Gunner, Doreen, Sarah and David who was known as Tiger soon joined them. They were just firing up as we left to head for bed. It looked like an all nighter was in the making for them.

May 29, 2003
Burg to Helmstedt
79 Kilometers

Breakfast in the cozy third floor loft then down the stairs and out by 8:45 PM. We did see the Minister from Dallas, TX and his wife. He tried to help us down the stairs then wished us well. The weather was already so nice that I rode with only short sleeves. Just on the outskirts of town we ran into a guy on bicycle dressed in an old style suit and top hat. We had no idea what he was doing and he couldn’t understand a thing we were saying. The ride from Burg to Magdeburg was flat and fast except for the climb over Highway 2, the freeway or Autobahn that we will be paralleling for the next two days. Just 6 Km from the city a guy in a funky old van pulled up. We traded cards and words that neither could understand. He was out chasing business to his bicycle shop, Fahrad Parade in Magdeburg.

Magdeburg is a pretty big city. Like all cities it starts with industrial and mid-rise apartments. Then we came upon a unique building, part of a large water park with slides, tubes and float areas. At the bridge over the river Elbe we met head on with a couple, Wilfried and Tina. They’re from Magdeburg but headed down river for a two-day ride.

We kept passing guys on bikes in costumes and goofy cloths. Just out of Magdeburg we began looking for food. Funny, most stores are closed, some kind of holiday? There are lots of small villages along Highway 1 but none had a store or Café that we could see. They were all like ghost towns.

It was nearing 2:00 PM and we were getting shaky from hunger. At a town, Erxleben, we passed an Aktiv Market that looked closed but there was a Doner Stand selling shave chicken and lamb. We slowed, there were a bunch of rowdy looking guys, again on bikes, drinking and eating in the parking lot. We decided to find a restaurant. Just around the corner there was a party going on at the Fire Station. It looked like a fundraiser for the Volunteer Fire Department. We asked some boys if it was open for food and they tried there best to get the point across that we could eat. The food was mostly beer and sausage with a huge table of cake and pie. The young guy who spoke a little English told us it was for “Man’s Day”. Yes it is a holiday, most things are closed. The men ride bikes and drink beer. We decided to go back to the Doner Stand.

 

	Flogel Horns	Sashliki

The guys who worked there were great. The sandwiches were huge and really tasty. We wolfed them down. A family pulled up in an old, 1958 jeep. Nice people but like the guys in the stand, none of us could communicate except in sign language.

The ride had been generally flat and fast until we neared Helmstedt, our target tor today. Then, as Wilfried and Tina had said, it turn hilly. In fact he told us it is the high point for this area. Long slow ups in warm sun had the sweat running down our backs. Finally a little down sweep and we were in town. I stopped and ran across the street to a service station for Gatorade. The heat had drained me. We both drank then rolled on finally turning into an old square where we found Hotel Sonntag. Susanne Sonntag is the owner and a character. She made us leave the bikes in her garden area but gave us here cool room, a bowl of fruit and breakfast tomorrow for 60€. Susanne explained the crazy day as a two part holiday. The crazy part is Fathers Day, or “men’s day” where men go from restaurant to restaurant and drink and eat, and the other is the day of ascension when Jesus arose, called “Christi Himmelfahrt”, always held on May 29th of every year.

We have BBC in our almost too cool room and just learned that today is Bob Hope’s 100th birthday. Congratulations Bob and thanks for the memories!

Just when you think it couldn’t get any better you go to dinner. Suzanne suggested a place just across the square. We were undecided even about whether to sit inside or in the courtyard. They were having a special Fathers Day barbeque, all you can eat for only 6.50€. What a bargain for us. The best part of the deal was the family who own and run Stettiner Hof Restaurant. The girl, who seated us and spoke a smidgen of English, introduced us to her Father, Werner. I wished him a happy Fathers Day and he returned the wish. We had a wonderful time with them and the chef. Of course we gorged on the meat and salad. Even a pretty good screw cap bottle of dry Riesling. After dinner we took in the sights of Helmsedt.

May 30, 2003
Helmstedt to Vohrum
68 Kilometers

Up and out early. Last night we saw a cyclist in front of the hotel then two bikes in the courtyard near ours. As I loaded our bags, before breakfast, the two guys came out and got ready to ride. One spoke no English but the other had a large vocabulary. They are riding two big days. Yesterday they cycled almost 250 Km. I told them that we thought that was extreme. They laughed then he told us that he had toured to Spain last year, 1,800 Km in 14 days. We told him that we thought that was very extreme. Then, they were off to Berlin, 230 Km from here as we went in to breakfast.

Breakfast was quite good, plenty of fresh fruit, eggs, cereal and toast. Fueled up, we rolled out at 8:45 AM. The countryside and its scattering of beautiful villages was a treat, increased by fantastic weather.

We flew over the first 38 Km to Braunschweig in less than 2 hours. Our plan was to circle through town then ride to Peine and catch the Mittellandkanal. Lost, we stopped at a corner and were studying the map. The light changed to red and a guy pulled up on his bike. I asked about the road and he struggled to figure out what we wanted. Thomas finally got the point that we were looking for Highway 1 then asked if we were going to Hannover. When we told him that it was our destination for today he said then do it the short way, my way. From that point on he was our guide. We followed as he circled through small streets and across squares. Even through church courtyards one of which was in the midst of a wedding and we had to push through the crowd.

When we broke free of the city he explained that he lives in small village suburb and was headed home. He would lead us to the second bridge on the Canal then leave us. He works for Volkswagen, in the engine division and has for 18 years. Married, they have a daughter who is 21 now and married. What a nice guy, and so generous to us with his time and information.

BridgeRiders

Once on the canal the trail went from bad to worse. It is a two-rut dirt road that at times dwindles to a single path. We had lunch under a bridge, very relaxing, watching the barges drive by, up and down the canal. A couple of pleasure boats cruised past but they were so busy that they didn’t notice us. We rode on but began looking for a place to escape back to the road. A path beckoned but it was steep. I left my bike at the bottom and pushed while Cat pulled her bike up. An old guy who had been following us pulled up and stood by my bike as we pushed. I hurried back down and found that he had probably opened my handlebar bag but taken nothing. At least, the snaps were open, which would not happen when I ride but the video cam and other things were still there. I pushed up, what a strain. Finally Cat helped and we made the corner and crested the summit.

Mittlelandkanal ride

Push Ups

We stood and basked in the moment but not for long. It was obvious that we were trapped inside the guardrail. There was no way out, only over. Another epic struggle. Cat’s first, she took the front wheel and I hoisted the rear. We got it up but high centered and stuck on a pedal. With all our strength we gave it one last heave and over she went. Not just tossed, we maintained control and set it down gently. Now, we were faced with my bloated bags. The first lift had been a learning experience, we lifted and pushed at the same time. Cat lifted high as I set the rear wheel on the rail. She held the rear wheel brake while I got a good grip then we set down together. Great teamwork that paid off, but not without a lot of sweat. Yes, the day is still beautiful but warm. As we passed through the town of Peine we lost our way. Struggling, we crossed an on ramp and pulled up to check the map. Cat hit the curb and fell, flat on her back. Dusted off and okay, we chose a left turn and found ourselves on Highway 444, an Autobahn with cars and trucks screaming past. We chose to ride back down the on ramp then caught a sign for Highway 65.

Back on track but tired, we pulled into the tiny village of Forum and asked if there were any Hotels in Sehnde, the next town, 16 Km further down the road. The consensus was NO, but one guy did think that we could find a room here at the Tavern/Bowling Alley. It was 5:00 PM so we took his advice and were soon parking the bikes in a garage connected to the bowling alley and carrying our bags up to a nice little room. At 46€ it was a good deal and we were hot, sweaty and tired.

 The Bowling Hotel?

Cat had her shower then as I bathed she checked about dinner with Hanna, at the bar. She said that Emil, a guy who spoke to us in English, whose Sister lives in San Gabriel, California, said that he would drive to another Tavern and get us chicken. Dinner at 7:00, we sat down and Hanna served the chicken and a huge bowl of Pomme Fite, French Fries. All fried but we loved every bite. As we chewed the bones Hanna answered the phone and it was Emil wondering how we were doing with the food. What nice people, caring and giving to strangers.

Since we took a look at Road Signs in Poland We thought you might enjoy This collage of German Signs.

May 31, 2003
Forum to Hannover
43 Kilometers

To put it politely, I suffered the Fried Chicken Two Step, twice during the middle of the night. Restless, I was up and moving by 6:30 AM. We loaded the bags, had them on the bikes and were at breakfast before 8:00. Not much to choose from so we both made Egg Mc Vohrums, boiled egg on bread. This could be our earliest start since last year in South Dakota. At 8:30 we rolled down the street and out into the countryside.

The road is a small country lane but there is a nice bicycle path adjacent to it. We are amazed at the way Germany has developed cycling routes. Strange feeling, we seemed to be heading in the wrong direction. I checked the compass and yes, we were rolling south. Then we came to a dead end and Highway 65 offered us a route to Hannover.

Cat was in trouble, she had to go and there was no place available. She checked a spot in the bushes but felt uncomfortable and got stung by a vicious plant! Onward, she found a more sheltered place but the ditch was too steep. In the next little town we found a Bakery and she asked. The nice lady opened the door to allow her in and her counterpart, a not so nice lady, said, “No Toilet.” And closed the door. The nice gal shrugged her shoulders and mouthed the words “Sorry.” Same village, same response at a market. The situation was getting crucial. We found a farm road and she squatted, just in the nick of time. As she stood a guy on bike pedaled past and stared. Finished, just in the nick of time, too!

The countryside here is truly beautiful and cycling is flat. There is a picturesque village about every 5 Km. The bike path was on the wrong side of the road for us and we met a little old guy head on at a corner. He pulled hard to the left and hit the curb, much like Cat had done yesterday. In an instant he was lying on the ground. We both dropped our bikes and ran to help him. He must have been 80 years old. After a check of his bones he discovered that he had skinned his fingers and they were bleeding. We felt terrible, he pushed onward and we stood watching. It was a no fault situation on his part and ours but, we still felt terrible.

Following 65 we found ourselves on a freeway with busy on and off ramps. Some drivers were understanding some honked their impatience. Our first opportunity to get off was a service station. Cat asked and the guy told her to just follow the road to the right of the station. I saw railway tracks on our map so we followed them through a suburb with homes that reminded us of Montecito near Santa Barbara. It took a couple more ask, asks but we soon found ourselves in the heart of Hannover at the Ban Hof, the Railway Station.

I stood in line and mailed the disks of pictures of our Baltic and Eastern Europe experience to Web Master Wally. It took 45 minutes due to the lines and my ignorance about their procedures. Cat waited patiently then she went in the Tourist Info Center looking for a Hotel. 45 minutes later she was even with me and we had a luxury room at a pretty price. We cycled passed a flea market along the canal then around the corner and we were at home for the next two nights.

Starving, we ate in the Hotel Restaurant, not much food but a big price. The best part was that the room, unlike our room, is air-conditioned. That was the best part of the meal.

Cat did the necessary trip to Laundromat while I worked on catching up the Journal. It was further than she had thought and a slow process. She was gone for 2 hours. I was just beginning to worry when she knocked on the door. It is hot today and our luxury room has no AC. I did get a fan delivered and it helped some.

Hungry, we just walked a short distance, found a great Italian Restaurant, “Sempre” meaning “anything”. We sat at the window and watched the walkers and cyclists passing by.

We enjoyed CNN and BBC until we couldn’t keep our eyelids open. That was 9:00 PM, we were completely tired out.

Sunday June 1, 2003
Day off in Hannover

Awake at 5:50 a.m., we looked out the window and saw a nice morning starting, but then went back to sleep. I was pretty tired and sore. After breakfast we wanted to walk around the town and see the sites that we’d missed the when we passed through here in Lil’ Scotty. This is the place, the only place where our Lil’ Scotty and WorldRiders2 paths will cross.

There was a car rally forming up across the street. I was looking forward to seeing them but by the time we got there, they had gone rallying. We heard about “The Red Thread”, which is a red line painted on the streets and a walking tour of the city taking you by the important things to see. We followed that path and saw wonderful sites as well as enjoying the beautifully sunny day. In the City Hall, the Rat Haus, they have three models of Hannover. The first is before WWII, the second just after, showing the total destruction of the City and the third, as she looks today. I t is an eye opener. Hard to believe that much fire and destruction can rain down from the skies. What was Adolph H. thinking? Again we ponder the question, did he and his cohorts set out to do bad things or did it just evolve into terrible and terror?

 

Gate of Dissent	Rat Haus	German Jambalaya
Swingin' Hannover

We were hoping to find an Internet café somewhere along the route, but NOTHING in the center is open today, Sunday, except restaurants. Cat had found an Internet place that was open, on her journey to do the laundry. We walked there and worked on our emails for 3 hours! It had been 5 days since we’d seen a computer. I go in and out of feeling bad. Achy all over, depleted of energy, even felt like I had a fever while we were at the Internet café. We walked back to the hotel very slowly and I went to sleep immediately. Cat worked on the missing parts of our journal and watched BBC, wondering what to do with me? After a couple of hours she walked down the street to see if she could find something to eat. It’s Sunday, so all of the markets are closed. She found a sandwich and soup. By now I couldn’t eat anything, I just wanted to sleep.

June 2, 2003
Healing in Hannover

We were supposed to head out today, but I still feel terrible and have diarrhea. There is no way I can get to far from the toilet! Cat walked over to a wonderful marketplace and got some bananas. We extended our stay for another day. Pleading for an air- conditioned room was fruitless, they don’t have any. However the plea did help produce a 2nd fan. I just lay in bed and watched TV, while Cat went out and did some errands and more Internet. She brought lunch back to the room. I managed to eat a little, not much. Cat couldn’t sit still, she went back out and walked around town. I remained bedridden. Cat brought back take away food from the marketplace, but I still had no appetite. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll feel well enough to ride.

June 3, 2003
Another sick day

Both of us were awake most of the night. The room is really hot even with 2 fans whirring. They do help but it is still uncomfortable. In the middle of the night I lay awake, contemplating the need for a Doctor. Snoozing off and on, when I woke up, I felt quite a bit better. Probably the threat of a Doctor, that always makes me feel better! We had an early breakfast to see how the food would set. We both really wanted to ride out today. Back in the room, I decided we had better stay another day. It was another day of sleep, sweat and toilet seat for me. Cat did some marketing and Internet.

June 4, 2003
Hannover to Buckeburg
60 Kilometers

Slow start, after 10:00 Am by the time we had some breakfast then loaded up and were at the front desk. Checked out, we asked about the best route and began getting opinions. A guy standing nearby, Christian, told us he was a cyclist and then began describing a route south, then another not quite as south but we could go through the famous village of Hameln. We didn’t get the famous part until he brought up the word, Piper. Well, we learned of the village Hamlin where the Pied Piper led the rats away then the children when the village refused to pay. The problem with the young hotel staff is that they only know directions for guests who are driving. We couldn’t go on the E 30 as they suggested. The problem with cyclists like Christian is that, though well intended, they seek the most scenic or interesting routes. In fact he described a ride he is planning that will follow the scenery and classical music. At this point we just want the shortest way to Amsterdam.

Out on the street we chose to follow our own best sense of direction. After a few blocks of following the river to the northwest we stopped for a traffic light. A cyclist pulled up and we asked. He spoke no English but tried hard. Go yellow building then to river, very hard find river. Follow. He took off with the light and we tried to follow but he was half a block ahead and then turned left. We could still see the building so we continued toward it. At the next corner as we waited the light he rode up from behind. This time he said, “You follow!”

He led us to the river and pointed the way. We exchanged handshakes and offered our dankes, thanks, then he disappeared again. We were on our own. What a kind guy would to take time from his day to make sure we were going in the right direction? A very nice kind, that’s for sure.

It was warm, not scorching hot but warm. The humidity had sweat pouring from my puny pores. I felt better but not whole. By 11:30 I was getting shaky. We stopped at a service station and I wolfed down 2 orange juice Popsicles and a green Powerade sports drink. I felt completely dehydrated. Rested, we rolled, I sloshed, on down the roadway.

We came upon a young damsel in distress. Her chain had jumped the gears in the back and was caught in the frame. I tried to break it free but it was really jammed. I pulled our tool bottle out and loosened her wheel, pulled the chain free and tightened the nut and she was off like a shot. She had been nervous, she spoke no English, and to her we were aliens. She did turn back and yell out, “Danke”.

Hungry, we turned into a large shopping center. For whatever reason, we chose a furniture store, a giant furniture store that had a restaurant sign on it. I asked at the info desk and the lady pointed up. It was on the third level, over looking the entry. I asked about parking the bikes inside and she nodded approval. As we rolled through the stationary revolving door another lady made a big deal and indicated that we couldn’t bring them in? Our original friend overruled her and we were on the way up the escalator to soup. Watching the guy next to us eat his, and not knowing much about the menu, we just pointed. Pretty good, a little spicy but I set aside the pieces of hot dog and ate the cabbage and potatoes. Cat ate every morsel of hers.

Countryside, fields of green grains and low hills covered with trees. A castle or windmill scattered about, occasionally. A car dealer had his head turner out front and it made me screech to a stop. The MBZ 600 is a classic that I have long admired.

We were really moving like turtles. Riding on the bike paths is great most of the time but in the villages we are relegated to the sidewalks. They are bumpy, the driveways are humpy and they feel dangerous because they are often narrow.

Our goal was to make it to Minden. We were tired, I was really feeling shaky, the wind was coming up and it was getting late. Buckeburg is 11 Km short of the goal but we turned off anyway. Following signs for the Hotels we stopped at the first one we came to. Cat checked it out. One thing we thought we wanted was AC, it didn’t have that. We talked then decided not to go any further. Hotel and Restaurant Jetenburger Hof would be our home. The bikes were parked safely in the garage and we carried our bags in.

The room was cool and the evening was beautiful. Relaxed and showered we had dinner at 8:00 PM. They have an honest to goodness beer garden. It is covered but open on the sides. The breeze felt great. They cook on a rotisserie and the chef serves off of the spits. He holds them above the plate and carves small slices off the sides. Interesting, one spit may hold food that goes to 3 or 4 tables. He carves, makes a show of it then moves to another table and goes through the same process. The crowd loves it, very unique. I wanted bland so ordered a turkey steak and boiled potatoes. Cat had salmon so neither of us would be a participant in the showy service. Though the Imodium has stopped the flow I still feel queasy and have a stomachache. Cat loved hers, I ate more than half of mine. That’s not much considering my normal food intake but it is much more than I have eaten at one sitting, in three days.

As we ate we were intrigued by a group of guys at a table nearby. They were from several countries and using English language as the common denominator. They were laughing and joking and having some real fun with the language and each other. When we were finished we went to their table and I asked if they were from the United Nations. That got a good laugh and we were able to get to know them a little. One young guy, a Dutchman, works with an Imagining Company near here. The two Japanese guys are their supplier, I think. The two Slovakians and guy from Portugal are here for training. We had a ball doing “You must be crazy”. In fact the Dutch guy and the young Japanese did a cool rendition by speaking the First part in their native language then the other would do, “You must be crazy”, in reverse. The Japanese guy said it in Dutch and the Dutch guy in Japanese. Very funny! The two Slovakians did a great job, too.

We asked a gal that Cat had been talking with at an adjacent table to take our picture. As I explained the camera to her Cat went to the head of the table and stood next to the older Japanese man. I suggested she come back to the other end of the table and she said, “No, I think I’ll just sit here,” and she sat in the older mans lap. Shocked at first, he enjoyed it and asked one of the others to take a picture with his camera. The other were going crazy, “She’s sitting in the Presidents lap,” one of them snickered. All in all it was great spontaneous fun.

"You Must Be Crazy" Dutch

"You Must Be Crazy" Slovakian

"You Must Be Crazy" Japanese

We took a picture with the gal who took that picture, too. She is in charge of a Seniors Housing Project here in Buckeburg. I told her about My Uncle Boyce who lives in Courdelaine Idaho in a Senior Community, Heritage Place. Dorothy, her counterpart there, prints our stories and he shares them with several of the other people there. Though still not feeling great, the social side of things had given me a boast.

June 5, 2003
Buckeburg to Bad Essen
57 Kilometers

Breakfast was a lonely affair, it was just the owner and us. He’s a friendly enough guy but the no English-no-German language barrier left him smoking at the end of the bar, waiting to lock us out so he could go back to bed. The partying went on into the wee small hours of the evening. We could hear the fun from below through our windows. He had to have been the leader of the party and our included Fruhstuck had cut into his sleep time.

Buckeburg is a wonderful little village centered around a 500-year-old Castle. Well at least some portion of a wall or something started it all back then. It is obvious that there have been many additions over the years. It sprawls behind the remnants of a moat that is now a beautiful pond with ducks and lily pads floating on the surface. The Rat Haus (City Offices) and Info Center are just across the fountain square.

The girl was cordial but had very little English both in vocabulary and printed material. We collected some of the brochures and she came up with the story of the Castle brochure in Anglais.

Westward we go, Cat full of energy and Pat still full of, well we won’t go into that one. I was still not feeling up to par. It was good path in the countryside and the sidewalk in villages again. Progress was slow for both of those reasons.

In Minden, our goal destination yesterday, we crossed the bridge over the Weser River. The bike path along its shore was paved and full of cyclists. We asked whether the paving extended to the Middlelandkanal at a sporting goods store. One of the young gals there did speak English. She asked everyone working there about the path then reported that none of them had ever been on it. We decided to give it another try.

Down a steep hill and out onto the levee. Strange, most cyclists here just pass with out eye contact. If we say hello they respond, usually after they are moving away. The paving soon ran down to gravel but we persisted. As we passed under a huge overpass I decided to push up a steep, loose gravel path and take a look. Cat waited at the bottom. What a shock when I crested the rise. This was the Middlelandkanal. The huge overpass supported a canal and ships. We pushed Cat up and began our ride on a concrete pathway.

In less than 3 Km we ran into what looked like a dead end. I found a gate that was open but as we pushed through a guy sitting on his boat, chipping paint, used sign language to tell us that we had to go up, onto a road then to a bridge and cross the canal. Cat was ready to quit but the spirit of adventure pushed me, she relented. Once back down on the edge of the canal we rolled along until we hit construction. Relegated to pushing for a while then back up and onto gravel, then ruts, then rut. We were really stuck in the same old MiddlelandKanal rut. I passed under a bridge then stopped and asked Cat if she had seen a way up there. She had and we took it.

It was a country lane but paved. We set off across the bridge and toward the direction of highway 65. It wasn’t long before the surface began to break down and we were again riding on dirt and rocks. Highway 65 was soon visible but took some effort to reach.

 More Dirt and Rocks

Pushing down the paved bike lane we tried to make up for some of the time we had lost. It was tough because I felt weak and shaky. Then the bike path road gave way to construction. More pushing.

In fact we pushed up to a restaurant with a fenced area and umbrellas. Lunch might help the shakes. As cute as the outside dining area was, we decided to escape the noise and dust of the construction and sit in solitary again, inside. The owner was a great guy but no English. We decided on what we thought of as Chef Salad and it was just what the Doctor had ordered.

Raindrops began fall on our heads. Not enough to soak but just slightly irritating. It did cool things down, to the point that Cat had to put on her jacket. However, the sun soon peeked through, the sweat rolled and the jacket went back in the bag.

By 3:00 PM we were beginning to make alternative plans again. Osnabruck was still more than 40 Km away and we were both getting tired of the bike seats and the head wind that had been whipping its self up since the raindrops had stopped. Bad Essen would be it for today. Unfortunately it is 2 Km off the road. What a beautiful lane into the village. There was a Castle that has Guest Rooms but we decided that it may not have food and Internet was unlikely. Onward, more construction then a village so quaint that we began to compare it to Laguna Beach or Balboa Island back on the California Coast. Another very nice girl at an Info Office spoke enough English to get our needs and find answers. I told Cat on the way in that we would find a perfect little place. An inexpensive little guest house across from a wonderful little restaurant, next to a Grocery Store and Internet Café.

Hoger’s Hotel has an old feeling about it. The lady speaks no English but tries, to the point that it is sort of irritating. She just forges on, thinking she understood when she missed the entire point. She did show us a garage to leave the bikes in. I removed and carried bags while Cat got us checked in. She parked the bikes in the garage but couldn’t figure out how to lock it. The lady came out and with typical enthusiasm she agreed that this was the garage. Cat closed the door and she said, “Okay” then started back inside the Hotel. It took 4 attempts on Cat’s part to finally get her to slow down and realize that we wanted the door locked. “Ah so”, she pulled out a ring of keys selected one and turned the lock. The moment of language frustration was finished.

The room is nice, overlooking the square and guess what, across from KaffeeMuhle, the Internet connection. While I typed Cat explored. The Kaffee does have a computer and it is on a first come basis. They have sort of snacky food and a Pizza made on a potato pancake. We decided to hit the machine and have one of the pizzas as an hors d’ouvre. The pizza was hot, the computer fast. We settled in and ate 3 pizzas, Cat had a little wine and I stuck with the soft drinks. (You can easily see that I haven’t healed entirely, yet.) In fact we spent 2 ½ hours and cleaned up all old messages.

When we paid the bill they just charged us for the food. We reminded them that we had been on the machine. The girl leaned close and whispered, “We don’t want the word out, but, when you buy food or drinks we include the computer time.”

What a good deal for us. We walked back to the room then decided to go back and get a picture of ladies of KaffeeMuhle. They were so busy that we had to wait, the place was now packed. The chairs and tables out front, in the bar area and up the stairs are full. They took time to line up for a quick shot then hurried back to tend their customers.

June 6, 2003
A Dizzy Day in Bad Essen

Up and ready to go. Cat was packing her bags while I shaved. I was ready for breakfast. As she stood and turned She was suddenly dizzy and felt like she would pass out. I helped her to the bed and she lay back on the pillows. She had that gray green pallor look. I went down and got a glass of orange juice for her. We have thought that this problem might be related to low blood sugar. We sat and relaxed but she was really dizzy. Finally I helped her down stairs and we had a bite to eat. She only had fruit and yogurt then went back upstairs. I finished my almost normal breakfast. Yes, I was feeling pretty good, again.

Back upstairs we had a short meeting. Bless her heart, she wants to ride, but has a hard time standing up. I decided to go down and take the room for another night. Surprise, they are fully booked for tonight. Undaunted, I walked to the Info Center. The same gal who helped us yesterday called and made sure there was a room available at The Dutchman Hotel. Back at the room I packed and hauled bags down. I asked for a key to the garage and the guy who we had thought was the owner came out. He asked where I was going and I told him we were moving to another Hotel. He seemed upset and asked why we were moving. “You are full,” I answered.

“No, I’m sure there was a misunderstanding, we have rooms.” He called out to his wife, the one who had just sent me packing. She yelled back something in German and he said, “Oh, sorry, we are sold out.”

He helped me get the bags to the garage and talked while I loaded. He asked what Hotel we were moving to and when I told him he said, “You don’t want to go there, let me help you get a good room.” We jumped into his MBZ and he raced through the cobblestone streets. He, his wife and daughter run the Hotel. Actually he works for an Elevator Company and is away Monday through Friday so the ladies actually run the Hotel. He is a golfer and has set up package deals for golf, dinner and Hotel. That’s why they are booked up Friday and Saturday night.

Hotel Buchenhof is quaint and historic, almost storybook feeling. The lady there was very gracious. She had a room but it is 10€ more than last nights room. She also has an apartment room with small kitchen for another 10€. I looked at it and it was a natural. We could pick up some groceries and eat in.

I rode Cat’s bike up first and parked it in the subterranean garage. A quick walk back and I rode my bike up then turned right around and went back for Cat. She was upset because she wanted to push her bike to the new Hotel. We went to the grocery store and got snack food for lunch and soup with pasta for dinner. Of course Cat loved the room. She said, “This place is like living in a story book.”

We relaxed, I typed and she watched The French Open tennis match. At 5:30 I went over to KaffeMuhle and checked the e-mails. Since we cleaned them completely yesterday it was pretty simple. I did make another attempt at springing Lil’ Scotty. Yes, she is still stuck in the Port Hueneme Prison.

Cat, feeling her old self, had whipped up a wonderful meal, our favorite, pasta in soup. We ate, typed, watched TV and relaxed.

June 7, 2003
Buckeburg to Ibbenburen
Emsaga on the Mittelandkanal

We both felt healthy at 6:00 AM so to celebrate we fell back asleep until after 7:00. The breakfast was nice, we sat overlooking the garden and the building our room is in. We agreed that it was like living in a Thomas Kincaid painting.

All bags on board, we pushed up the steep driveway and rolled out and down toward highway 65. The sun is peeking in and out of a broken cloud cover. Quickly into countryside, we found the road good and a bike path most of the time. At about 15 Km we were cast out upon Freeway 65. Somehow we were on a four lane without a bike lane. Many of the drivers honked to let us know that we were not supposed to be there. I always tried to wave but what the heck could we do? We had to just tuck down and ride. It was not only dangerous but it was up, too. We climbed at a painfully slow pace. Finally at the crest we caught an off ramp.

As we stood, trying to decide what to do or whether to go back onto the Freeway a car pulled up and the driver, Vera, rolled down her window. I grabbed the map and approached her. She told us to go 100 meters in the wrong direction then turn back on a bike path that would take us all the way in to Osnabruck.

She was right and we loved the path. Though we had to ride the bumpy sidewalk in town, it was safe and fairly fast. We stopped in the center and got directions from the Tourist Info Center and enjoyed bells of the huge church and the action in the center. The girl in the center told us to push through the arch behind hr office then just ride west. We did but stopped and picked up snack food, ham and cheese and bread for a picnic.

We passed several parks but none had a table. Hungry, we chose a bus stop bench to have a good picnic in the shade. It is warm in the sun, almost sultry.

At Ibbenburen we pulled up and I had an orange juice Popsicle. We on loaded a bottle of Chablis, just in case? Back aboard, we just pedaled. Our chosen goal for today is Rheine and we made it at 4:20 PM. I had another Popsicle while Cat sought shelter. She talked with a girl who said, “2 Km to the center, many hotels.”

We rode, past one Gasthaus but it didn’t look central enough. Then, in the center, Cat asked a Taxi Driver and, following his direction, we veered off to the right. Hotel Lucke is on the river but under re-construction. We were tired, the price was high then the young guy, Christian, reduced it by 10€ and she took the deal.

We were surprised when Christian opened the door. There were 20 bikes in a row. He has two other cycling groups staying here tonight. One group of 14 is out right now, on the river, making today a biathlon for them.

We off loaded and hit the shower and computer. By 6:30 we were walking into the Market Square. It is open and ringed with Restaurants. We chose the one with the most people sitting under umbrellas. Food was good, wine by the glass but that worked out okay, too.

As we walked away from the restaurant we watched a gal taking pictures of the square. She was intent and selective. We struck up a conversation and to our delight, Sabine not only spoke English, she knew a lot about this area and the world. Her husband was in the Military and worked internationally, even in Huntsville, Alabama. She told us about the South of Germany and the village that she came from. What a delight to talk with.

Earlier, we strolled to the top of the bridge next to the Hotel and watched what looked like a reception on a homemade looking raft. As we returned I wanted to see if they were still there. The group of people had gone but there were 3 guys still on board. We went down and called out to them. They invited us aboard and told us about EmSaga a journey down the canal in handmade boats. The idea was born 20 years ago. Well, the fathers of these guys started the event. This is their fourth voyage together. They offered us a drink on the deck while they introduced themselves, Stephan, Torsten, Stephan II and a guy that walked up, Udu. They all said that he was the only real sailor on the team. He has been in the German navy and sailed around the world in 11 months on a training square-rigger. It is just for fun, the group that was here earlier was an Historic River Craft Club. We had a great time, they poured wine and we learned a little about them and they about us. We will have to link their web site. It was hard to believe that at 10:00 Pm the sun was still in the western sky.

 EMSAGA IV Guys

Sunday June 8, 2003
Ibeenburen to Hengelo
72 Kilometers
Into the Netherlands

The breakfast room was full of cyclists. There is a group of guys, German guys that stick pretty close together. I did ask one of them about their trip, he out lined 10 days and did say that they were the group who was rowing last night. He hurried away to finish breakfast. They are on a tour and the van is leaving, soon.

A group of women sat near us but seemed to only speak German and were having lots of serious conversation. We finished and carried the bags down. The women were in the driveway, loading their bikes, too. One of them spoke enough English to have a small conversation. They are on a 10-day trip. This is only their second day. We asked to get a picture, one gal seemed upset and rode away. We had the young guy, the son of the Hotel Owner take our picture. As they rode out the driveway we noticed a helmet and gloves on the stairs. I called out but they were at a loss, they were all wearing their own helmets. Then they looked and realized that the gal who already left had left her helmet and gloves. She really must have been upset?

We decided to see what was happening on the boat. The Hotel owner’s son said that his room is on the river side of the Hotel and the Boat People partied until the wee small hours of the morning. On the bridge we could see that a couple of them were still lying on top of the wheelhouse, trying to sleep. Two guys we hadn’t met before came up carrying an empty keg of beer. We stood and talked and they gave us the a little more insight on the Boat People. The first boat was launched in 1983. In fact Stephan I who we talked with last night told us he was aboard and was only 6 years old, then. The second boat was built in 1988 and the third, the Viking Boat, in 1998. One of these guys was Stephan II’s brother, Christian. Their Father is one of the original boat people too, we think.

We were on the road and headed toward Holland by 9:15 AM. There was a little climb then flat but city sidewalk riding. Lots of bumps and detours. After an hour and a half I pulled us in for an Orange Juice Popsicle. Two very serious cyclists pulled up, one went to the toilet while the other filled their water bottles at a hose bib. They nodded a hello as they cranked out of the driveway. It was like an Indy Car Pit Stop.

The sign said Niederlande inside the circle of twelve golden stars on a dark blue background. Under that was a rider that said, 1 km. Taking no chances we took a picture there. In just 2 ½ months we have come from Vaasa, Finland to this 9th Border crossing. We have spent 17 days in Germany and loved it. Well we didn’t like the illness thing but were happy that we had nice places to stay when we needed them. The country has been spring green, great weather and wonderful cycling routes. Though we liked it we are ready for change.

We are making pretty good time, we covered the 40 Km from Rheine to the border in only slightly more than 2 hours. Sure we could do another 40 we pushed on. Passing through Oldenzaal, Holland, we chose to go on though we were hungry. Just outside of town, on a bicycle overpass over a bicycle underpass we ate the left over ham and cheese, just a snack. As we rolled out we came upon a parade of people led by priests? Also, a strange sign that seemed to say it was okay for your doggie to poop on the trail?

A cyclist pulled up from behind and started talking with Cat. He, Hennie Kuiper is a 12-time participant in the Tour de France. He also worked for several years with the Motorola Cycling Team from the USA that Lance Armstrong was riding with. We were impressed, he was pressed because he pointed to the gathering black clouds and indicated that it would soon rain. He led us to the edge of Hengelo and suggested several restaurants. As he rode away I wished that we had taken a picture with him. He is a World Class Cyclist and now a PR agent for a Cycling Team.

Well, Hennie was absolutely right. We pulled up in town and chose an Irish Pub Restaurant. We sat at a sidewalk table until the wind suddenly began to howl. We moved inside just in time. The skies really opened up, the rain came down in buckets. So thick at times that we could barely see across the street. Our sandwiches were good and the young guy there, from Scotland, was a treat. He even suggested a Hotel. Yes we were throwing in the towel on the wettest afternoon of our ride.

Cycling in gusty wind and thick rain we checked the Hotel and would have to leave the bikes outside, in an alley. The guy there was nice enough to suggest The Best Western and told us how to find it.

The price is above budget, what else is new? They do offer unlimited Internet access and breakfast. The rain looked even wetter, we took the deal. They made us park the bikes with those of the staff, in a conference room. We were now high and dry. The clouds began to scatter as did the showers. We used the computers and cleaned up our e-mails then walked to a nearby restaurant, in heavy drizzle, and had a good time eating and people watching. There was a little girl, definitely a cute 3-year-old Dutch girl. She had the look of Holland but her actions were international. When she wanted something she know how to get it.

What do I have to loose? It was 10:00 PM, late to call someone especially someone you don’t know. But, if I don’t call we won’t meet Hennie, for sure. His cell phone rang several times, I was almost ready to hang up when he answered. I asked and he said, “Maybe,” can you call I the morning at 9:00?” Hey, that is at least a little better than a turn down. “All things are possible, just ask.”

June 9, 2003
Hengelo to Apeldoorn
78 Kilometers
The Great Hennie Kuiper

Rate has its privileges, as they say. Well, we know that they usually say RANK but for us, at the rate we are paying for the room here, we have a lot of English language TV stations. On top of that, we enjoy the spoils of a small country, they broadcast in English with Dutch sub-titles.

We awoke this morning to the news that our friends in Poland have voted to become part of the European Union. We experienced the euphoria some Poles were feeling about the change and the fear of others. The farmers fear that they won’t be able to compete. Government workers fear that their jobs will be deleted and of course the huge bulge of people unemployed fear a loss of their social funding. That is all history now and it will be interesting to see the results over the years. We sense that it will be a good thing and may open a lot of doors for the people of Poland. Our friend Franklin Zawacki sent an e-mail that described Poland as a place dominated by either the Russians or Germans for centuries. Maybe that will change, too.

The Boys of Spring here play Soccer. They had been a boisterous bar crowd last night. One of them had dropped his pants near where Cat was working on the computer. Not directed at her, he probably didn’t even realize that she was there. They are a pretty quiet bunch this morning. Two guys, Fathers of players we thought, mentioned that they had seen us come in on the bikes, in the rain.

I asked if they won the game and one said, “Of course not!” A young guy nearby added, “We never do.” Not a healthy attitude, maybe it affects their playing? Curious, I asked him if they were a Community Team or Professional? He laughed and said, “Community, there is no money in this.” We enjoyed the included breakfast with a large spread, even fresh fruit.

Back in the room, I made the call to Hennie. He not only said he would come but asked if it was okay to bring a friend. We were excited as we filled the bags and took them down to the conference room parking lot. By the time we pushed out into the lobby Hennie and Jan were there. We talked for a few minutes then went back into the restaurant and had coffee. Amazing, the Soccer team all knew Hennie and wanted to say hello to him.

I had checked Hennie’s web site (www.Hennie@Kuiper.nl) and the stats are truly impressive. Olympic Champion, National Champion, he has done it all. Jan and Hennie have conducted a couple of tours and it sounds like they will do more. I told them about my idea to run tours back and forth from Katmandu, Nepal to Lhasa, Tibet and how I decided that it would be too dangerous and costly, especially the insurance. They have a very good idea. Their first trip was to Alpe d’ Huez, a well-known stage of the Tour de France. They recently they took 500 cyclists to a famous climb. These kind of short trips should be easier to manage and less costly than foreign trips. If you feel like a little climbing pain and want it with a Champion, check Hennie’s Web site.

Holland's Hero, Hennie!

Hennie is also part owner of Raleigh Bicycles of Europe. He rides a beautiful Raleigh and wears Raleigh shorts and shirt. They bought the rights to the name here. Another thing a retired hero of cycling here does is host tours for RaboBank, one of Holland’s largest banks. They take a bus to the Tour de France and other big races. Hennie meets the clients and introduces them to cyclists and explains the course and strategies. Both Jan and Hennie are just down to earth, cordial guys.

We cycled together to the edge of town, shook hands and they shot away like sports cars, on a road ride while we pedaled our over loaded trucks toward Apeldoorn.

It was a beautiful day full of sunshine. The roads were tree lined in fact covered, almost like a tunnel some of the time. We stopped to take a picture of Kasteel Twickel then took a turn for the worse. Well, we somehow rode off in the wrong direction. A couple of older couples looked at our map, their maps and held a big discussion in Dutch then indicated that we would have to backtrack the 3 Km we had just ridden.

On a corner we met Koos and Gerry, a Dutch couple who were looking at their map and the signs above. They are on a two-week cycling trip and were trying to find the Castle Route. We told them about Kasteel Trickel, got a quick picture together then cycled off on our separate ways.

In the village of Holten we found a kind of fast food place open. The food was all deep-fried and different than anything we had seen to date. One item that was pretty good was some kind of noodles in a breaded patty. Other things included some kind of sausage also breaded and deep-fried. We rounded the feast out with an order of Pomme Frite, French Fries.

Up, over the bridge of the river Ijssel in Deventer then farms and forest into Apeldoorn. We found the Centrum but found little there. I went into an Italian Restaurant and the owners, Sanny and Antonio took on the job of the Tourist Office. They talked about Hotels in Dutch then decided that we should go to Hotel Garni Abbekerk. She called and booked a room, 65€ including breakfast. We promised that we would be back for dinner.

The Hotel is really a B&B, a 100-year-old place that was built as a guesthouse, and later used as home for the local Priest for several years. Finally it was converted back to a B&B. The couple that own it now are young and ambitious. She, Shannon is from California, in fact she lived in Ventura for two of her High School years.

Tired but thankful for their help, we took a cab back to Tipico. Sanny and Jan Pieter served us the energy giving pasta that Antonio prepared. We took a picture with them, even included Mohammed, the dishwasher. Charles, from a nearby table took the shot, which got us into a conversation with them. He, his wife Yvonne, son Sebastiaan and daughter in law, Chantel struck up a conversation, nice people too. The pasta gave us an energy surge, we walked back to Garni Abberkerk.

June 10, 2003
Apeldoorn to Amsterdam
91 Kilometers Cat has decided that the woman does the after

noon work in these B&Bs and the guy takes the morning shift. Jeroen was the breakfast person. We hit the spread then loaded. The plan to leave by 9:00 AM deteriorated to 9:30. WE took a picture of the house then pedaled west.

All the promises of “No hills” in Holland dissipated as we climbed out of Apeldoorn. Not hills like Wyoming but some pretty good ups and downs. The scenery is sylvan, open space and forest. Maybe the best part is the bike path that parallels the highway. The road was a straight shot to Amersfoort, small villages and farms clinging to the edge of highway 344. This is the half way point, at least we thought it was.

Amsterdam, Here We Come!

Sandwiches in a tiny bakery, seated at what looked like elementary school desks. Back out on the street, we followed the signs toward Soest. That didn’t last long, the path and street was closed, under construction. A couple of couples stopped and helped us. We backtracked then checked with a cyclist who confirmed the route the couples had suggested.

We did find Soest but still felt lost so we pulled up at a bicycle shop. The guy there spoke little English but showed us on the map what our alternatives were. He suggested a southerly route as the shortest and best road surface. We set off, in drizzling rain, looking for the second set of stoplights and the Palace of the Queen Mother. The picture we have may or may not be Queen Mothers place but it is beautiful. Then, we passed the turn our cycle shop friend had suggested because a bicycle path sign pointed in the other direction and advised 35 Km. Once we started in that direction Cat said that she thought we were on what he had called “The scenic route.”

In short time it was clear that we were on the shortest, not the most scenic path. We were riding adjacent to highway A 1, a fast moving freeway. Our map made it look like a good bet, except for the fumes and noise. It was just grind out the miles or Kilometers, through farms and suburbs. Just a few kilometers out of Amsterdam there is a village so picturesque and pristine that we had to stop. While we ate our ice cream they opened the lock and swung the bridge aside to allow a pleasure boat passage. Another interesting spectacle, some young guys swimming in the canal right under the sign forbidding it.

 

	Unlocking the Lock

As we neared Amsterdam we tried to use the city map that came with our big map, to no avail. Once inside the city, we stopped at a grocery store for a celebratory bottle of wine.

It was getting late and we were lost. A stop at a photography store confirmed that we should follow signs to Central Station, for an Info Office. We parked the bikes and I waited while Cat found the Info Office. I had to move them twice, once because we were parked in front of some busy Post Office Boxes then again because I was under a pigeon perch and they were showering pigeon poop down on the bags.

Info was of no help regarding Hotels so we pushed off on a quest. The first stop, Victoria Hotel had only a single room available and it was 200€ per night. At Crown Plaza they did have rooms but they started at 225€, we walked another 50 meters and found Avenue Hotel. Cat went in and came out smiling. They had a room, we could keep the bikes in it and the cost was only 75€! We were at home in Amsterdam.

It was a tough struggle, getting the bikes into the elevator and up to the 3rd floor. A peek inside the room and we agreed that we couldn’t keep the bikes in this room. It was way too small. Back to the lobby, the staff allowed us to store the bikes in the luggage room. We were really at home in Amsterdam.

Once we had shelter food became our primary motivation. We showered then walked to an Argentinean Restaurant. Good food and wine.

June 11, 2003
A day of exploration in Amsterdam
Visiting Vincent Van Gogh

Essentials first, we found a Laundromat. There were 3 guys, big guys doing their duty. Thanks to them we avoided the long learning curve. They guided us through the entire process. An uncle and two nephews, they are here from Modesto, California with a lot of members of their Dutch family, meeting relatives and exploring roots. Another guy from Florida came in and we passed on the lesson. He had a quick sense of humor, when we asked what brought him here he told us he was re-living his youth, smoking dope. Of course that was a joke, he works for City Government back home. He and his wife are just visiting but they did look up the family of his boss.

Internet at the tourist office but the lines were too long to get any Info. Another non-Dutch lunch, soup and a huge sandwich in a Scottish Restaurant. The next hour was spent in frustration, trying to figure out the boat system. Sent from hither to yon and back we finally learned where to buy tickets and catch the CanalBus. Once on board it turned out to be a very good investment. The ticket is good until noon tomorrow. Gliding through the canals is a great way to see Amsterdam. The pilot has a computerized vocal guide and he points to the things the recorded voice describes.

 

		On the Canal
Cruisin' the Canal

Our love of Vincent led us first to The Van Gogh Museum. In celebration of his 150th birthday they have a special exhibition of works of art that Vincent would have surrounded himself with. The permanent exhibition is fantastic. Vincent was born here, we were surprised to