Africa means Animals

In this segment of our journal we invite you to come along and meet them, with us, face to face. Africa means tropics, Africa means intriguing Tribes. Come meet the Maasai and learn a little about their ancient and evolving lives. Warriors, herdsmen, families emerging yet preserving some of their heritage.

HOP, SKIP AND JUMP ACROSS AFRICA

When we were kids we called what is now the TRIPLE JUMP in the Olympics, the Hop, Skip and Jump. We’ll hop over Sierra Leone, Liberia and The Ivory Coast to avoid West Africa’s “HOT SPOTS”. Discretion being the better the better part of valor, we chose to take the safe road. Sierra Leone is calm but still controlled by UN Peacekeepers. Liberia is trying to get things together now that President Charles Taylor has sought exile in Nigeria and a new government is being formed. The Ivory Coast, in the midst of a very fragile peace, could explode at any time. In all three there are still too many armed and dangerous children. Sierra Leone and Liberia have known war years. Soldiers, who are armed, out of work and cash, often turn to robbery. We will also skip over Nigeria and the Congo Basin for similar reasons. We will cycle on the Gold Coast, through Ghana, Benin and Togo then jump over to Kenya and start our southward drive to Cape Town. As I have relayed to Earl, Cat’s Dad, we would have gone on but we forgot to pack our bulletproof vests!

December 18, 2003
Hopping Off to Ghana

Anxiety, the mood to move on? We awoke at 5:00 AM, lay back then sprung out at 6:00 to the ring of the telephone wake up call. We’re on our way to Ghana. Cat has most of the main packing completed. A call for breakfast in our room then we showered and packed our toiletries into carry on bags.

Cat has been angry because Thomas, the manager told her that they only included breakfast the first day we were here. Of course we thought he meant that breakfast was included everyday. We could have picked up breakfast things and eaten in had we known. I went to the desk and faced him down, the backed down, halfway and credited us for 1 breakfast each day. What a penny-anti approach to business. We told them that we’d let LPGB know about their practice.

Then, a good deal from Thomas and Le Riviera, a pickup truck pulled up, we loaded the bikes and bags and were off to the airport. A small hassle with baggage handlers all vying for a tip. Nothing like the riot we ran into in Nouadhibou but annoying.

One skilled and friendly guy took charge, we taped the bikes together and he got them inside. His knowledge of the system saved us almost 100,000 GF by making one bike out of two. He got a nice tip.

Inside the waiting area we met Duncan, a Peace Corp volunteer. He’s also a cyclist and noticed our bags. He was really excited about our trip and wants to do a long cycle tour when he gets out of the P C. He just signed for a third year, we suggested that he come to California and cycle home with us. What a nice young guy. There were two other volunteers there, Paul and Beth, they said hello but weren’t very talkative or maybe Duncan was so excited that they couldn’t get a word in? They are all on vacation and going to Ghana. Another girl, Melissa, struck up a conversation as we boarded the plane. She’s from Maryland and has another year to go here with the P C. She’s planning on doing what they call the triangle. Accra to Kumasi in the north then down to Cape Coast, and back to Accra.

We watched lizards making a living, eating ants that were eating the leftovers of a bird. The larger one ran the little one off and just stood at the banquet table slurping the line up as his main course. A larger one came on the scene, it had an orange head and tail. Its diet seemed to be ant-eating lizards. It chased the anteater then the small one around but struck out, at least while we watched. Ah, the food chain.

The plane was late taking off then the Captain apologized and said that we were waiting for a passenger who was late and running to catch the flight. We thought, only in Ghana or maybe Africa? Then, as we walked out they had us identify our baggage before we boarded. Security we supposed?

Our seatmate was anti social, kind of a pill with the flight attendants. He insisted that he had ordered a vegetarian meal. She told him that they didn’t have any Veggie meals on board and asked to see his ticket. He folded and took the fish dish and ate every morsel. Cat did fish, too. I had chicken. I mention it because later I got the Guff Guff, again. Just trying to track food I ate that was different from what she had.

I began to worry because about our handlebar bags. The zipper on the big bag they were in had broken. I couldn’t remember seeing them at the security check and thought that our nice helper or one of his cohorts in Conakry might have slipped them out. I couldn’t stop thinking about the mistake of not taping it. Even though there was nothing we could do about it up here, I continued to churn. Wonder why we do things like that to ourselves?

When we got onto the ground the Captain told us to remain seated. The passenger who had hurried to make the plane was the Prime Minister of Ghana and he would get off at a different spot than us commoners. They had a Red Carpet and TV cameras waiting for his arrival. We watched then I slipped upto1st class and tried to get a photo. A guy seated there held his hand up and said, “No photos in this area”. I complied, slipped back a couple of rows and got a shot of the carpet walkway and TV cameras.

Smooth landing, smooth crossing through Immigrations and all bags and the bikes were there. All of that worry for naught! Cat changed a little of our CFA into Cedis to pay for the taxi. We booked a room at Niagara Plus Hotel at a kiosk in the airport. A Porter standing there took charge of our bags. Nice guy, he talked about how he could never take a trip like ours. Of course I felt that he could and told him to start planning it, today. He laughed and confessed that, though he’s 10 years younger than I, he hasn’t ridden a bike in years and really doesn’t want to.

He found a station wagon Taxi and helped us load the bikes and bags in. The driver quoted $30 US. Cat howled, “Its only 4 kilometers”.

“Who says that”, he asked?

When Cat told him our guidebook he chuckled then reduced the price to $20. Cat continued to negotiate and he converted to Cedis and cut a tiny bit more.

Niagara Plus is pretty basic but our room is large and ground floor. Plenty of room for us and the bikes. This travel day had taken almost all day. The flight had stopped in Ivory Coast but we weren’t allowed to de-plane. We walked across the street to the wine store and got a couple of bottles for our refrigerator. Also, we hit the Besnet Cyber Café next to the wine store and checked e-mail. This place isn’t posh but it has everything we need and it’s only $50 per night, including breakfast.

Just as the Jolly guy has said, the sun went down at 6:00 PM. We ate dinner in the Hotel patio. Surprise, there were a couple of black women seated nest to us. We assumed that they were locals until we heard them talking. Unmistakably, US style English, they are a Mom and daughter from Santa Rosa, California.

Phyllis, the Mom is a go giver. She is involved in several endeavors that she hopes will make a difference in peoples lives, here. She has a card, “Visit Ghana – Philanthropy Host Family Services”. Also, she has a business in Santa Rosa called Diasporan Boutique that specializes in African drums, clothing, cloth and Shea Butter.

She is most proud of the Jembe Drum business, a student here builds them, she ships them back and sells them giving him the profit so that he may attend college. Also, her Shea Butter project is a local product found in body oils, creams and lotions. Phyllis swears that it has great affect on skin and body. I love the story, Shea Butter is like the Argon Oil Cooperative we saw in Morocco. It is a group of women who buy and manufacture the product. They gain money and self worth through the effort. What a wonderful way to connect with and help people who are trying to make changes in their lives!

Pretty good food, pretty inexpensive but slow, service was really slow. We took our own wine, another good deal for us!

December 19, 2003
Money, The Root of ALL EVIL

The sun starts to flood into the room at 6:00 AM. We wanted to get going. Up and ready to bath but, no hot water. We called the desk, they checked and agreed then in about 45 minutes they provided a bucket of warm. Boat bucket bath, wasn’t all bad. We both washed the cloths we’ve been wearing for the past 3 days, too.

Breakfast, included, but not very good? An omelet with toast, no juice or fruit. The coffee was Nescafe and the milk, canned. We did get to see and listen to karaoke Christmas carols, the words filtered across the screen as the melody drifted out from an electronic keyboard.

I got one of the bikes put together while Cat called the Togo and Benin Embassies. The good news is that if we can get to the Togo Embassy before 12:00 noon they will have our Visas back to us by 2:00 PM. And, the Benin Embassy is open in the afternoon. They won’t get our Passports and the Visa back until Monday but that’s pretty fast.

We decided that the first priority is “Get Cash”. We barely have enough local Cedis to pay for the cab ride to the Embassies and they both want money before they’ll start to processing Visas.

A block north and one west from the Hotel and there’s a Barclays Bank. We walked, stood inline then learned that Foreign Exchange was upstairs. The gals there weren’t all that friendly. They sort of had that “I told you so” look in their eyes as they told us the bad news, the transaction was not denied. The third try was not the charm and they were tired of us. We asked for the American Express Office and they wrote down Trust Tower and a street name.

We caught a Taxi, he wanted 20,000 Cedis, Cat wanted to argue. I took the deal. You really lose track of money here. If he had reduced to 15,000, which he said he wouldn’t, we’d only save 60 cents. Hardly worth the effort?

At the Trust Bank, after a conversation on the ground floor, a wait, then another conversation, we learned that we were in the wrong place. There is a place, a building called Trust Tower, this is Trust Bank? There’s a Barclays Bank next door so we decided to try an amount less than $500, maybe that’s the problem? Stand in line, hand over Passports and Visa Card, have a seat. Another half hour with the same result, no MONEY? Declined?

We stopped another Taxi and asked him to take us to Trust Tower, he sat with a blank look then said, ”I don’t know where it is”, and drove away. Time was fleeting and we were getting edgy. Another Cab, this driver sat with a dumbfounded look as we tried to explain where we wanted to go. We even had him look at the map in our guidebook to make sure he knew where we needed to go. He didn’t, he faked it. After a long run in the wrong direction he reversed course. He was so lost that he began stopping and asking. In a small residential street we finally gave up. He knew not that he knew not! We got out and walked.

It’s too late to make the Togo Embassy but then it would do no good without MONEY. Another Taxi, another lost soul. Suddenly, like a light going off he gunned the engine and off we went. He knew the way!

It turns out that Trust Tower is the AmEx Office but not really. On the second floor there is a small office, a travel office called Afro Wings Ltd. “Yes”, the girl said, “You can get money here but the Manager isn’t in”. Only he can help us and they have no idea when or even if he will be back? We waited for a while, they tried to call him, we gave up.

The girl did show us a shop where we could buy a phone card and pay phones out front where we could call Visa. The cost wasn’t too bad, about $5:00 for 150 units. The call went through surprisingly fast, but service was painstakingly slow. The lady had to have all of the personal info to assure that we were we. That took most of the time. They transferred us to Security, they’d put another hold on our account because of charges in so many strange places. We’ve been through this with them and had asked that they make a note on their computer about our Odyssey. They said they’d release the hold just as my phone card ran out of units.

Another Taxi, back to Barclays near our Hotel. Another attempt at the counter, another DECLINE? Lunch, the gal at Barclays suggested that we come back in an hour so we went to the Koala, Supermarket for picnic supplies. It’s a well-stocked store full of lots of affluent looking people. Surprisingly, most are white? We bought cookies recommended by a couple of girls, more Peace Corp volunteers. Nice kids, one lives in a village up country the other is teaching English in Japan. They’re on vacation.

Lunch and BBC in the room under the AC. Back to Barclays, still no MONEY? The HOLD is still on? Back to Koala we bought 200 telephone units then spent a frustrating 20 minutes trying to get a call out on a broken phone. Back again to Barclays, Cat stood in line and I went looking for a functioning phone. Another rejection, the nearby phone wouldn’t work with the card we had? A long walk then I stood in a long line. When I finally got my turn and finally I got through to Visa it was almost 3:30. The same security curtain burned up the first 100 units and when it said “Change Card” I tried and lost The Visa office. Frustrated and time running out I got them back and they started the routine again. I shouted, the crowd of others waiting for a phone stared. The woman at Visa said that they had released the hold, again? Then I wanted to establish a 4-digit pin code, needed here to get cash from ATM machines. I had tried on the first call and it added to the frustration because it’s automated and they ask for the first three letters of your Mother’s maiden name. There were no letters on the phone, I was rejected. This time I told the lady and she said, try 727. I did and the good news, it worked, the bad, it will be affective in 2 business days.

It’s now 3:30 and the bank is closed. If Cat hasn’t scored yet we’ll be penniless for the weekend. She was standing inside the locked door next to the guy holding a machine gun. She did a thumbs down then convinced the guard to let me in. We ran up the stairs and the lady there tried the call again. After the long, nervous delay she got an approval!!!!!!

She asked, “Are you happy”?

I sang into the little microphone at the window, “You make me so very happy, I’m so glad you came into my life”! Not great singing but we were elated and the women in the glass cage loved it. Wow, you should see what 4, 240, 912 Cedis looks like! One block of bills tied together, four bundles of bills and a huge handful of loose. They hand out black plastic bags to carry the loot out in. We felt like every eye was on us as we exited the bank. They all know what the lump in the bag is.

Celebration, we bought 2 bottles of wine on the way back to the room. With those safely stashed in the fridge and the bundles spread among our bags we went across to the Internet Shop. Cat stayed after our initial check of messages. I came back to our vault and typed journal while guarding our MILLIONS!

Dinner in, slow service but again, pretty good food. The frustrations of the day subsided and we began to make a weekend plan.

December 20, 2003
Shopping For Wheels

The sun peaked in at 6:00 AM. We were up early, bathed and at breakfast before 8:00. Same omelets and coffee but this time we came prepared with our own bananas and juice. We’re trying to get used to the new sunshine hours. We’ll have to start earlier in order to get the mileage in while the sun shines.

Tried to call FedEx but no answer. Decided to look for a bicycle store where they might have double wall rims. We could have wheels built when the package arrives. The guys here at Niagara Plus suggested a store just up the main street. There is a couple with two young girls staying here. They started out the gate with us. We had been guessing where they’re from and decided, South Africa. Wrong, he is from Australia, she, England. They live in Togo and are just here for a holiday.

Further along a guy, Ben, rode up on a California Mountain Bike. I asked him about parts. We had a good time talking. He’s from Colorado, here with a sports company that actually sets up events to convince people to get Polio and other vaccinations. He did know of a place called Tudu Station that might have the bike parts we’re looking for.

Tudu is a transportation center and Police Station. It is also a frenetic, wild, push and shove kind of street market. Cat negotiated a price of 10,000 Cedis with the cab driver and we were off. This is a big town, it is a 15 to 20 minute ride to Tudu. He pulled up and said, “Too much traffic” and indicated we should get out. We asked if it was Tudu. He said it was straight ahead. Then he pulled around the traffic circle and over to the side for us to get out. Cat gave him 12,000 because he had been so nice. He said that he had agreed on 10,000 then told us to stay and drove right to the spot where all the bicycle stalls are located. Amazing, the attitude change for just 25 cents!

We walked and shopped. Everyone has a deal or will find what we are looking for. We chose to just walk and experience. At a particularly clean stall we met David. He did have V Rims and they are cheap? That worries me but we told him we’d be back on Monday.

Tudu Market

More Taxi, back to our neighborhood then Cat went looking for an office supply to get copies of the Visa card bills that security had questioned. We checked last night and there is a mistake. Also she is looking for a Passport photo place. Every country requires 4 photos with application for their Visa. I came back to the AC and the journal.

Lunch in then Cat went back out for Malaria meds and I went back to the keyboard. She was back in an hour and we went to Besnet and checked in with the family. She stayed to clean up the old messages and I was banished back to the journal.

Wine time, we ceased and desisted other activity and had wine and cheese. A small plan is developing to explore Accra and the beach tomorrow morning. Maybe find a different Hotel for the next few days here. Cat is getting itchy.

Dinner in the patio again. Very slow service, pretty good food. More CNN, then bed before 10:00 PM.

Sunday, December 21, 2003
Another Accra Day

A lazy Sunday morn, we didn’t even wake up until after 7:00 AM. Bath, dress and out to breakfast at 8:30 then the marathon wait for food. It’s hard fro us to understand how it can take 40 minutes to serve an omelet. (We ordered fried eggs but after 40 minutes we took what we could get.) And, the coffee, they serve Nescafe in the little plastic tubes. So, boiling water takes a lot longer here at the equator?

Cat watched Larry King Live with guest Oprah Winfrey, I typed. She shopped and then made lunch in. I worked the pages of the journal.

Dinner here, Pasta cooked with our olive oil. Pretty good, the usual slow service.

December 22, 2003
A Business Day in Accra

Up at break of dawn, we bathed and I ordered breakfast in the hope that we wouldn’t have to wait an hour. They must have gotten the wrath of the Manager after Cat talked with him last night? It appeared at our door in just 15 minutes. We ate to the latest CNN news. (Even though Sadaam is out of the picture young Americans continue to die. They reported 4 killed yesterday?)

Cat had explored yesterday and found a photographer who would sell 20 Passport pictures of each of us for 160,000. (A little less than $20.00) We walked to his shop and posed near the sign that said “Instant Passport Photos” then he told us to come back in an hour. Instant has a different meaning here?

Checking the Internet we found that one of our packages was probably in at FedEx. Brad with LandRider also indicated that the new wheels had been sent here to Accra. So, we may be able to leave tomorrow, if we’re lucky?

The instant photos still weren’t ready, we had to wait another half hour but enjoyed listening and talking with the guys hanging around there.

Our next stop, the Togo Embassy. We met three guys there while waiting. Bastian is half German and half Brazilian, Markus is half Thai and half German, Ben is 100% African. He was born in the village where Markus has been doing volunteer work. Bastian just flew in to visit. The three of them are going to visit Togo and Benin. Ben is currently attending University in Benin and wants to show them his campus and the area.

Lucky, they adopted us. We shared the cab that they bargained for, to the Benin Embassy. Again, Ben took the lead. He speaks French and Twi, the language of Ghana. He even went out and made copies of the form because the Embassy only had one left. We had a fun time waiting, joking and laughing. He convinced them that we needed the Visas today. They charged 1½ times the normal fee but said they would have them for us when we get our Passports back this afternoon.

A couple, Joe from Kenya and April from Wisconsin, USA, came in and began filling out the same forms. She is working in The Ivory Coast with a refugee group and confirmed that the place is on the verge of blowing up into full-fledged war. She fears that if it does all her refugee charges will be killed. She doesn’t mention what she thinks might happen to her? Joe told us that the main thing we must see in Kenya is Masai Game Reserve. He thinks it’s the biggest, definitely the best big game park in Africa.

Aatok, a guy from India here on business, also confirmed the Ivory Coast problem. His company won’t let him travel there to visit their customers, too dangerous. He also told us that colleagues in Nigeria have told him not to drive, fly in to Lagos, only, and stay there with them. They told him it is too dangerous to leave the City.

Time for lunch and the guys invited us to tag along for some genuine, authentic FU FU. It’s a thick paste that they pound in the mortar. The paste is from the root of the Casaba tree. We walked into an open marketplace and through the dusty parking lot to a row of shacky stalls. One had seats and they were pounding Fu Fu. We watched a local guy eat with his hands and got the gist of the technique. Right hand only, pull the dough apart with fingers, swish it around in the sauce then pop it into your mouth. Pretty simple and pretty messy for us neophytes. The taste is entirely in the sauce. We think it is something like Poi that the locals eat in Hawaii. The family running the stall were fun, I took pictures of several of them. They acted shy then called everybody nearby to see the pictures on the back of the camera.

Poundin' Fu Fu

Taxi back to the Togo Embassy for our Passports and Visas then another to the Benin Embassy. Bastion had a falling out with the guy in charge here. We’re paying the extra for hurry up service but he feels that they’re pushing us back, making us wait for no reason. Ben took over and finessed them. We were all soon hovering around the desk, signing and picking them up. Ben did “You Must Be Crazy” in Twi, the language of Ghana, with a little help from his friends. It was great fun, we hated to say goodbye.

You Must Be Crazy-Twi

We caught a taxi to the Airport only to find that the FedEx Office there is for “Drop Off Only”. The two guys working there were concerned and helpful. They called the main office and confirmed that neither of our packages is here yet. One should be in tomorrow?

Back to our room and a little journalizing. The Satellite is still on the blink, no TV.

The big decision, we chose to walk to dinner at an Italian Restaurant, Borsalino. It’s a block or two around the corner from Koala, the Super market. We walked in the dark street and felt that the only danger is traffic. The people are either non-committal or just hurry by or they smile and say hello.

Disappointment, Borsalino’s was closed. More decisions, we decided on Chinese food. It is a long walk back down the main street. There are little businesses all along the side of the road. Tiny stalls or just tables with goods stacked on them. Food places with blazing barbeques and people crowded around eating fish, rice, grilled platanos 9large green bananas) and of course, Fu Fu.

The restaurant is upstairs, the ambiance is Chinese and the food was good. We brought our own wine, fearful that they may not serve any. The waiter, a friendly African guy, told us that they had a big selection of wine then asked how much we had paid for ours. When we told him he said, “You better drink yours”. Thanks to him our meal, which we could charge on our Visa Card, only cost $21.00 US.

We spent 45 minutes on the Internet. Cat had another Guff Guff calling. Base Camp Charlie sent a message and in the middle of it he told us that they were in the midst of a BIG earthquake and he signed off.

There is a big 4WD from Holland with sponsor stickers on it parked in front of the Hotel. It says that they are going to Cape Town. We left one of our cards on the window, hoping to meet them before they leave.

Still no Satellite so we watched some local programs. Cat was interested in a drama, locals in local situations. An older woman running a food stall just like the ones along the street dealt with her customers and the problems of running her business.

December 23, 2003
Another Accra Day

Awoke real early, lay in then snoozed until 7:30. That really felt good. Satellite TV is still out but we did see a piece that confirmed the earthquake Charlie described in his e-mail last night. It was a 6.5 Richter Scale shaker centered in Paso Robles. Two people were killed there when the building they lived I collapsed.

We went out for breakfast and did meet the adventurers from Holland, Berkus and Hendrika. They are adjusting their plans because war between Chad and The Sudan has closed that border. Now, they will ship their vehicle to Cape Town and drive back up the East Coast. We hope to stay in touch with them and try to cross paths somewhere down the line. They have a web-site, www.TransAfrika-Overland.nl if you’d like to take a look.

Cat got FedEx on the phone, disappointment, neither of the packages are in, yet. They do think that at least one of them will arrive this afternoon? Another day in Accra!

A walk up the main street, s stop at a Travel Agency that had little or no info on flights from Benin to Uganda. An attempt the send the pictures via FedEx to Web Master Wally but they didn’t have a cardboard envelope and we didn’t want to let them go in a soft one.

As we walked a guy came sprinting past, a guy jumped out of his car and tripped him. There was a group, vigilantes, chasing him. They caught him and began beating on him. He had stolen a wallet or at least he was accused of stealing it. The crowd seemed to feed on the violence. They surged across the street right past us. I wanted to hold up my hand, yell out, “Let ye who is without sin cast blows upon this boy”. Everyone here seems to be religious but this was an example of rage driven not by virtue but by vile hate and a desire to hurt? We felt sorry for the guy. As he past, taking blows to the head he started to run again. Where are the Police? Are they going to kill this guy?

Stop Thief

We stopped at Besnet, checked messages and met a nice guy, Rod, from Pennsylvania. He is a Professor of Christian Philosophy. He’s traveled the world over and has connections everywhere. We hope to stay in touch, maybe our paths will cross again. He offered to help connect us with some friends that work at Kruger National Park in South Africa.

Internet, journal, another call to FedEx after our picnic lunch at 2:00 PM and no further results. They have one package but it hasn’t been sent from the Airport, yet. They don’t know where the wheels are? Their computer was down, she asked us to call back about 5:00.

The call at 5:00, again, found no further results, she suggested calling again tomorrow. I complained but she had excuses, the Holiday rush, an Airport problem?

Another pleasant Christmas surprise, we stopped at Koala Center for lunch meats and water. When we fell into the line to pay we were directly behind Melissa, the nice young Peace Corp girl we met on the flight here. She has spent her vacation time visiting Ghana and other Peace Corp people. She said that she’s been nervous while here. Accra is too big. She’s anxious to get back to her tiny village.

A glass of wine to calm the nerves. Cat is really crawling the walls. We are so lethargic that we just settled in, watched TV then ate dinner in the Hotel. Same slow service, same okay food. We talked with the Dutch couple, Berkus and Hendrika as we ate. There was a guy and his son, Dave, from Washington DC sitting in the lobby. We talked a bit. Dave is in the Peace Corp. His Step-Mom came in specifically to meet us. Very nice people, they left for dinner but Dave did leave his e-mail address and the address of the Peace Corp office. They have a guy who works on bicycles and he thought they might be able to help us true our old wheels. We want to get on the road again, one way or the other.

We took our computer out and shared pictures of Holland and a few others then they brought theirs and we saw some of their adventure. Today is Hendrika’s Birthday. She called her parents in Holland while we were viewing the pictures, small world, huh? Their rig is similar to Helja’s, our Danish Family, it has a tent for sleeping on the roof. They seem to enjoy life and they have a pretty nice lifestyle. By the way, he’s a tour bus driver so this is really a BUSMAN’S holiday!

The local station TV had a Ghanaian comedian on. Recorded at an earlier time, he did a piece about going to America. The excitement of trying to get a scholarship then the cultural differences and how embarrassing they can be. He told of going to the bookstore, wanting an eraser and asking for it like he would here in Ghana. The young white girl in Connecticut turned red when he asked for a rubber. He looked at the guy behind him in the line, saw that he had some erasers and asked where he got his rubbers? The guy said “I buy them at the Drug Store.” It was interesting too, that he called The US the U Ahs. That made both the audience and us laugh. We were in bed by 10:30.

December 24, 2003
Christmas Eve in Accra

CNN was up and running with bad news this morning. A Lebanese plane taking off at Cotonou, Benin has crashed into the sea at the end of the runway. Lots of people killed as they left their jobs to get home for Christmas. We’ll be taking off from the same runway next week.

Breakfast with Berkus and Hendrika, he is really upset by the terrible service here at Niagara Plus Hotel. They ordered two coffees and only got one? Last night it was the same, two soups ordered one delivered then wait anther 30 minutes for the missing bowl. It is bad, I say its Africa. They say that’s no excuse. I think a lot of the problem is language.

Paula and Michael, the Step Mom and Dad, came in too. They are both Professors at George Mason University in Virginia. He’s a Math Professor, she a Professor of languages and Women’s Studies. We got into a discussion about Domestic and Sexual Abuse. Her Woman’s classes focus on the subject. They’re going to travel the same triangle that Melissa has just completed. Dave came in looking sleepy eyed, they put their heads together making plans and we headed to our room. This is one of those times when I wish I had taken a picture.

We called FedEx at 9:00 AM, they have one of our packages in but seem to have no idea where the other, the wheels, might be or when they’ll be here. I told Francesca that we were coming over to the office. She advised against it. We set off with our old wheels in hand. We’ll have David reworked them at the bicycle market if the new wheels aren’t going to make it. We want to get back on the road, one way or the other!

A visit with our friendly lady at Barclay’s Bank. We tried out our Visa card and the new 4-digit pin number out first, it worked but the limit is 80,000 Cedis. (About $100 US) We have decided that we need 2,500,000 ($ 292 US). Enough to get us checked out of the Hotel and live on for 2 or 3 remaining days here in Ghana.

I went into the bank, Cat walked back to Niagara Plus, we had forgotten to bring the spokes to rebuild wheels, if we have to. I was in line upstairs when a hubbub broke out downstairs. The friendly lady said that there was a fight because they were running out of money. I saw Cat through the window and called out to her, warning of the fracas. One can see how it would be irritating to have money in the bank and not be able to get it on Christmas Eve! It had quieted down by the time Cat got inside. They must have gotten a new infusion of cash?

The same lady helped us again, today. The card went through without a hitch. While we were waiting a couple with a cute little girl came in. He got to the window then couldn’t find his wallet with credit cards. He fumbled through his pockets while she worried. Then she pulled out her cell phone and called someone. They found it, it had dropped out of his pocket. She gloated. I finished getting our pile of funny money, put it in the black plastic bag then fiddled with the receipt and my wallet. Downstairs, Cat turned to me and asked if I had the money. I thought I had put it in the bag she was carrying. Spike, adrenalin flowed, I sprinted back up the stairs. The couple had returned with his cards and were at the window. Our package was there, next to her elbow, on the counter. She said, “I can’t believe it, you forgot the money”.

I told her, “It’s a man thing, don’t try to understand it”! We all got a laugh, I got the bag of Cedis.

A taxi ride then an hour and a half at FedEx. Francesca got our first package for us. John worked hard tracking the wheels. We FedExed the CD of pictures to Web Master Wally while he searched through scanning records on his computer. He found it in London. We were resigned to getting the old wheels fixed when he called someone then confirmed that they would be in Accra tonight. He gave us a phone number for a guy named Charles and told us to call him later to confirm where we could meet tonight and get the wheels.

A stop at Koala, then lunch in. I typed, Cat checked messages at Besnet Cyber Café, across the street. She came back frustrated. Their machines were running at snails pace.

I finished the placing the pictures in the text for the Dakar to Conakry journal this afternoon. We walked to Tower Cyber and sent it to Wally. There is a difference, their machines are super fast. We sent then cleaned up messages.

It was 7:00 PM so we grabbed a taxi and went looking for AFGO, the freight area at the Airport. The driver faked it at first then something clicked and we were at the gate just before our appointed 7:30 meeting with Charles.

What a nice guy, he greeted us then had us take a seat. The plane had just arrived and they hadn’t sorted the packages out yet. A very jolly guy named Nicholas joked around with us. We started calling him St. Nick but he didn’t get it? Then Cat explained by telling him, “Papa Noel”. He really liked that and the rest of the crew chided him but joined in his infectious laugh.

A picture with Charles and the package then I started to pick it up but he wouldn’t allow it. He carried the big box all the way to the street and put it into the taxi trunk. (Our driver had hung around, waiting for us.) I tried to give him a Christmas gift of 15,000 Cedis but he refused, he ducked away and yelled back to us, “Merry Christmas”. Charles and LandRider had definitely made our Christmas Eve happy!

After a quick stop at Niagara Plus to leave the wheels we had our taxi drop us at the Osu Food Court. It is so western, so USA. Two large pizzas, one each, along with our wine, smuggled in. We were in heaven, we were back home for a few minutes.

It was like a real Christmas back in the room. Building bicycles reminded me of Christmas Past. I think I must have put bicycles together almost every year for one or the other of the kids over the years. We unpacked and were astounded to find 4 new wheels, front and rear. I got them installed while Cat packed. By 11:00 PM we slipped into bed. Anxious to get going tomorrow, anxious not to see Santa Claus when he does his fly by, tonight.

December 25, 2003
On The Road On Christmas Day
Skipping Across Ghana, Togo and Benin Accra to Tome
52 Kilometers

Our final breakfast, same low quality however service is better on Christmas Day in the Morning. Packing and loading took time. It was 9:30 when we at last pushed out of the driveway. The security guard, the sleepy one, walked to the middle of the street and held his little red flag out to stop traffic. There was none but he did a good job, anyway.

Half a block, that was all it took to realize that the bikes would need some adjusting. Gears clattering, wheels dragging on the brakes. And, I thought I had done such a good job on them. Adjust and ride then stop and adjust again. Pat’s brail system of repair.

Winding our way through fairly nice little track homes we eventually found a main road that took us to Ring Road East and out of town. Accra is larger than it looks and this area is like suburbia. We’re still amazed with the cleaner, more affluent look of Ghana and Accra.

Two stops for soft drinks and directions. A moment of indecision then we made a right turn and into a quest for food. The road runs directly to the Harbor. It’s just an industrial area with hundreds of trucks rolling or parked. Lunch at a fast food place called “Chicken Lickin’”. Fried chicken legs, fries and soft drinks.

Moving on, we came upon a couple of guys wearing clown outfits. They had a look of India but when I asked they denied that heritage. They had limited English language but agreed to a photo then held out their hands and asked for a little Christmas gift. Of course we gave.

I asked a guy where the Hotels were in Tome. He said, “Friends Hotel, just ahead on right”. What about any others? He shrugged and said, “No others”. Okay, we’re going to our Friends Hotel. A sign told us to turn, onto a dirt road. Some guys sitting near the corner indicated, up and to the left. Friends Hotel is a Motel, single story, with an outside bar and tables under copula roofs. We got in then had a couple of beers. It was 3:30 PM and hot as Hades.

While Cat organized our room I worked on the bikes. She has had a terrible time trying to shift the front derailleur. Our handlebar grips are disintegrating. The one on her left side, the shifting side, is gone, leaving just the hard plastic. She wore a blister on the palm of her hand today. I got the remaining piece pushed up onto the shifter. It looks like it’ll work. I also oiled the mechanism good, too. The rest of the repair, adjusting the wheels and shifter, was just trial and error. I’m not very good at this mechanic thing.

The shower was cool at best but then after the heat of this afternoon cool was good. Our room is two rooms. A bedroom and living room/kitchen. The AC is in the bedroom so we set it on cold and propped the door open. The TV and two chairs take up most of the living room. The electric range shall go unused but we did put our water and wine into the refrigerator.

At 7:00 PM Cat went to check on dinner. The power failed and dark prevailed. Almost total dark. I could hear Cat calling out for a light then the generator kicked in and we had light.

Our Christmas Dinner was in the custom of Ghana, fresh fried chicken and chips. (French Fries) We sat in a little lounge area under a Casablanca fan. The restaurant seating is in a room that has no lighting.

Tired, we watched a little English language TV. The same comedian we saw a couple of nights ago doing Ghanaian political humor. Not nearly as interesting as the “Going to America” routine. We both dozed off in the overstuffed chairs.

December 26, 2003
Tome to Ada
96 Kilometers

Breakfast, though not included, was a good value at 20,000 Cedis. (About $2.00 each.) An omelet, toast, juice and coffee. We fueled up and rolled out at 8:30 AM. It took us 30 minutes to get back up to the Highway. It was a wonderful 4 lane, well-paved and flat ride. Well for about 10 kilometers then it narrowed to 2 lanes. Those 2 soon got real narrow.

We miss our missing gloves. Cat turned her right one inside out to protect her blistered palm. Off to the left we spotted a golf course. We’d talked about alternatives and golf gloves are one of them. It was a dirt road ride and parts of it were soft sand and walking. They did have some and they would sell one or two. We bought left hand only, pulled them on under the gaze of the astounded Pro-Shop guys, a Grounds Keeper and a Caddy. (This is another of those “Wish I woulda taken a picture” moments.

Onward, the narrow two lane became a wide, dusty, rocky dirt road. It’s under construction, we were doomed to ride in thick dust that boiled up from under the wheels of every passing truck and car. Always anxious to learn, we noticed that locals were riding on the other side of the road, facing traffic. Cat thought it might be smoother but as soon as we crossed over we knew the advantage. There was a slight breeze from the left and the dust of passing vehicles would drift off to the right. We had a lot less of it to eat. This would be most of our ride today, at least 40 kilometers, in dirt, eating dust.

Red Dust

We did make a stop in a small roadside village for soft drinks. I took a picture of Cat inside taking a drink. A nursing Mom seated near the doorway objected so I let her see the picture. She was so excited that she called everyone to see. Then they almost turned on us. They demanded a picture. That took about 10 minutes for each of them to see it then come back for one more look. A young naked boy stood and peed, his mother who was using a grinding stone to make some sort of goo grabbed him and spanked his bare butt. I guess you just don’t relieve yourself on your own doorstep here, either.

Grindin' Goo

It was 5:00 PM when we reached the crossroads and decision time. After talking with some locals we learned that they think there is a Hotel 15 kilometers further along on this highway. They all agreed that the Manet Paradise Hotel is very nice and off to the right. They disagreed about distance. One said 15 Km. the other, 20. We had to go with what we know. The guy who guessed 20 Km was closer to right. The road was flat and paved but a long way between places. The area is swampy, a river delta.

The nice pavement ended and the final 4 kilometers were on loose dirt. We got in just at dusk. We were a mess, the red dirt clings to our clothing. We must have looked like a couple of bums. The staff stared, as if to say, “Can you afford to stay here”?

The place, aptly named, it is Paradise in a sea of mediocrity. The room is spacious, cool and pleasant. Three girls helped us unload and carry the bags. They also cleared a spot in their storage room where we will keep the bikes.

Dinner was a buffet. Pretty good food, very good wine. Cat talked with a couple from Denmark but they weren’t too talkative. Cat had 2 desserts and wanted more but was too embarrassed to ask.

Yes, we had CNN on the TV but it was without sound more than half the time. A huge earthquake in Iran, 5 more GI’s killed in Iraq. Who needs sound? Who needs news?

December 27, 2003
Ada, Ghana to Lome, Togo
10 Kilometers by Boat, 85 Kilometers on Bike

Breakfast doesn’t start until 8:00 AM and we were up early. I wanted a banana so we walked into the nearby village. It is a world apart from Paradise. While walking we ran into a guy we’d seen last night as we checked in. He had his daughter on his shoulders and was walking back toward the Hotel, across the sand of the beach. His name is Thomas, hers, Catherine. Both he and his wife are Doctors from Germany. They work with a Non-profit trying to stem the tide on HIV-Aids and Malaria.

Ask and Yee shall receive! I started asking last night without results. Then on the way to our included buffet breakfast I asked again. This time the guy at the desk, James, said they might be able to get a boat that could take us across the river. The map shows that there is a road from the small village of Dzita. We thought it would be an interesting ride across the River Delta and the road would be better than going all the way back to the Highway then riding in traffic.

While we ate James worked on the problem. When we came back in he introduced us to boat Captain Joshua. Actually he just said, “This is the boat Captain, he can take you”. The price was right, about $33 US. We made a deal. It was outside that I asked the Captains name. When he told me I said, “Joshua fit the battle of Jericho”. He quickly responded, “And the walls came tumbling down”!

With bags loaded on the bikes we pushed out to the dock. I had talked with Thomas this morning and told him that we wanted a picture of his family. He, his wife Dr. Jennifer and the little girl Catherine were in the pool so I took it there.

We were able to load the bikes into the boat with bags. An Irish guy, Louis, took our picture then we pushed off. Thomas, with his daughter, Catherine again on his shoulders, stood knee deep in water and took our picture. We were off, across the Delta. Joshua is an excellent riverboat Captain. He knew the shallows, the sand bars and the interesting sights. Every time I took the camera out he slowed to make sure that we got a good picture. The village near the Hotel is so African, so picturesque. The shore is lined with Pirogues and huts. Life was going on as it probably always does. We even got a pic of a buffed up guy bathing on the shore.

	BoatRiders2

Landing at Dzita was another treat. The concrete dock is loaded with wood, twigs for burning, to smoke fish. The guys ashore helped off load the bikes. Joshua was off almost instantly. We talked with the guys there, took some photos, including one of a guy who had a huge snake wrapped around his shoulders, Monte and his Python. (Cat say’s “Dead snakes are good snakes”!)

It was 11:00 Am by the time we mounted up. The road is paved and flat. We cycled for 2 ½ hours then stopped for soft drinks. The shop owner is victim of scoliosis but you wouldn’t know that he had a problem if you hadn’t seen him walk. He has 2 beautiful children, a boy 4 and girl 7 years old. Like so many, he wants to visit America. He asked for our help then for a copy of the pictures that we took. We could give him neither.

I couldn’t not take the picture of the memorial to Lt. General Kotoka. He lived only to age 41 and was assassinated? Why, and then, why did they raise a monument to him? Did his comrades eventually prevail? Did he give his life for a worthy cause? So many questions, no answers?

Onward, until 2:00 then a sign for a Hotel with GOOD food caught our eyes. We turned off and though it took a while we did have a good lunch. The Chef was very particular about display and service. We just had simple chicken, again, with slaw and chips but these chips were Yam. They were hot and to me, fairly tasteless. Cat liked them. She thought they tasted like potatoes. We sat in the patio and prayed for a breeze.

Cat is again plagued by the African Guff Guff. I’m doing pretty well, health wise. She made a pit stop then we paid the bill and rode on. The Chef told us that the road ahead was under construction, which struck fear into our hearts after yesterday. Then he said that it was paved or hard surface all the way and the road wasn’t officially open, yet. So we would have it mostly to ourselves.

He was mostly right. Little traffic but the surface did vacillate between paved, loose gravel and dirt. At one point it was wet, we picked up mud, on the bags and our legs.

The new road, that replaces one that the Chef said the sea had taken, swings out in an arc. It reminded us of the Great Salt Flats of Utah. The sand is white and flat and goes for almost as far as you can see.

Somewhere along here we started to roll past a group of people waiting at a bus stop. They looked too foreign to be locals. We pulled up and enjoyed a few minutes of chatter with a big bunch of Peace Corp Volunteers. They were talkative but anxious to get the next Bush Taxi back to Accra. We did get a picture and a great little video of them and passed out cards. They are our heroes, they give so much and get so little yet they love what they do. The trade off will come later in life, like our friend Dennis in Ziguinchor and so many others whose lives were shaped in places like this.

Peace Corps Pals

We stopped at a crossroad and asked direction. Victoria, a local lady, pointed to the right. There was a big party going on down the road. When we asked she told us that someone had died. Cat has read about the Ewe people whose funerals last for days. They play the drums and dance to chase the evil away. They also believe that the soul of the departed will re-appear in the next born child of the clan. Pretty interesting.

Funeral

Villages line the broad, sandy beach off to our right. On the left is another broad river delta. This is the tropics, this is the Africa we have expected. Freight is carried on 4-wheel carts with wheels are from cars. They roll easily and carry big payloads.

We expected Aflao long before we finally got there. It is a border town, a typical looking border town. Then a small open space and we were entering Togo. It was fast approaching dusk when we were stopped on the Ghanaian side to get released with a Passport stamp. Several guys gathered around and seemed interested in our trip. They may have just been angling for position with us. Each of them offered to help us through the formalities. We resisted all but one very personable fellow. He did help by taking Cat to the Togo Immigration the finding a moneychanger. We traded our few remaining Cedis for CFA and pedaled into the gathering gloom.

Lome is only slightly more that ½ kilometer from the border. Cat had chosen Hotel du Benin from the LPGB but the first place we saw looked like home to us. The sign for Ibis, the franchise chain that hosted us in so many European cities, glowed through the evening dark. They had a room, they had plenty of rooms. The Hotel only opened on December 12th. (We found out later that it was previously Hotel Benin. It has been completely renovated. It feels and smells great.)

Its a little beyond budget, especially when you add in dinner and wine but worth it. We were only one of two groups served by 8 chefs and 4 servers. The place is so new that the staff is using guests as training. We had to settle for red wine, they had no white. So, in keeping with tradition I had Beef Brochette. Cat opted for pasta with chicken and mushrooms. We really felt pampered.

The only other guests at dinner were a family from Nigeria. We talked with them on the way back across to the Hotel. Mom, Dad and two well behaved children. They recognized us, they’d seen us at the border as we entered Togo. They were full of questions, especially the kids. We promised to get together in the morning for pictures.

TV is a little disappointing, no CNN. They do offer Euro News but the problem with E. N. is that it’s even more redundant than CNN.

Sunday, December 28, 2003
A Day Off in Lome Ibis Hotel is Heaven

We awoke to the pounding of drums and the rhythm of cowbells. There was a big running event taking place on the main street, in front of the Hotel. At least a 10 K race that some looked pretty serious about while others ran in groups, pounding drums and chanting.

Mpeg 053 Togo Sunday

Breakfast, like so many of the features here, was over budget but another great value. They probably hated to see us coming. We were hungry for fruit and they had a great selection. Again, we were the only guests partaking and we partook, well. Juice, eggs and croissants, with ham slices, too. The only disappointment was that we thought we’d missed our friends from Nigeria. We walked out onto the main and took a few pictures of the festival and an interesting HIV billboard.

Back in the room, I started to type journal and Cat continued her Guff Guff. She has been passing a little blood along with the diarrhea. The phone rang, it was Femi, the Dad. They hadn’t gone and wanted to get a picture with us. Cat couldn’t risk leaving the throne so I went down and joined them. What a wonderful family they are. The Mom, Bunmi, is a Pharmacist with Pfizer Corp. and was in Ghana interviewing Pharmaceutical reps. The family was along for the ride. The kids, Seyitan age 7 and Mofe, 9 years old, are very bright and full of questions. Femi is an architect and proud Father. They live in Lagos, Nigeria. They’re sorry that we are skipping past Nigeria but did tell me of labor strife and other problems that might have slowed our progress.

Beautiful Family

I typed a little then Cat, who was feeling better, suggested that we take a walk to an Internet sight. (We decided that since the blood in her stool was red, we’d wait to go to a clinic for 2 days and see if it would clear up.) The walk was in vain, as far as Internet went. They do have machines, for guests only, at Hotel Palm Resort. Boy are we glad that we’re not eligible, the place is run down and age dated.

After circling several blocks a guy, Freeman, who was trying to sell us hand painted greeting cards, led us to a place we’d passed earlier. It was still closed but he did find out that they’d open today at 1:00. We decided to try to convince the Hotel Palm Resort to let us use their machines. The clerk didn’t have a problem except that they are connected to the main office and turned off. They may be back on at 3:00 PM, or so?

Back in Ibis Heaven, we napped. Wow, did that feel good. We’re both completely fatigued, or as the French say, “Fatigay”.

Up and out at 3:00 PM, we found a huge beach party in progress across the street. The Internet shop was open. We checked, answered and wrote messages to LandRider, thanking them for the wheels and updates to the family of our progress. 

On the way back we took pictures of the beach party. I stood on top of the block wall that surrounds Hotel Ibis. The Police Officers on duty there were a little nervous to see an old guy climbing but seemed to enjoy it once I was back on firm ground. The party was throbbing and loud. We learned that the runners this morning and this party are regular Sunday events, here.

Beach Festival

A little more journal, wine and dinner. Another treat, served by 7 Chefs and 3 waiters.

Cat watched a Richard Dreyfus, Bette Midler film with French voice over. I typed. A little bad news on CNN just at bedtime. A Lebanese Flight leaving Cotonou, Benin crashed on take off killing ¾ s of the passengers. We will cycle in but fly out of Cotonou in a few days.

December 29, 2003
Lome, Togo to Grand Popo, Benin
84 Kilometers

Another fabulous Breakfast Buffet. Another packing and loading morning. We took the carts up after breakfast. The staff objected and wanted to help. Cat thinks they are only interested in a tip? I think it may be a combination of wanting to help and wanting to earn. There is so little money here that she may be right? They’re helpful to the point that it can be irritating. We had decided that it would be best to load up in the lobby then take the bikes down the stairs. The Hotel looks new but is a rebuild and they don’t have a ramp from the lobby to the driveway. Two of the blue uniforms whisked the bikes down the stairs and another took 3 of the bags out. They had made our decision, we’ll haul the bags down separately.

The goodbyes were sparse, maybe because we didn’t tip? The traffic was thick. First stop, around the corner to Ramco Super Marche. We pulled up near the door and the guy in black uniform stepped out and got the point across that he didn’t want the bikes there. He was waving his arm and pointing toward the parking lot. We stood our ground and stood in the shade. Cat ran in and bought 2 bottles of water. We poured them into our bottles under his wary gaze then waved au revoir and rolled back out into the traffic.

This part of the ride may be second only to Dakar. The road is rough and narrow. Traffic is a thick as the haze in the air. At the edge of town we had to go up and over a railroad track on a bridge so narrow that Cat, who was riding behind, got tired of cars trying to pass and just rode up the center of the road. Very gutsy and smart on her part, don’t you think?

The road is now lined with farms, like truck farms and a marked bicycle and motorcycle path. Fresh vegetables and greens being hand watered and harvested. A boy stood the guard over a stack of sacks full of fresh picked carrots. The air is fresher here but there are ominous looking clouds of smoke coming from the fields ahead.

We thought they were burning sugar fields but there were no stocks. Several times we were in smoke so thick that we could barely see the lines on the road. There were so many fields afire that we were rarely out of the haze.

Up In Smoke 

A stop in a small village for a soft drink, Lion Killer. It’s a lemon flavored drink that had been in the freezer. It was cold to the point of icy. I needed a toilet, the girl led me across the alleyway, into a fenced yard then behind a bamboo hut. There were two cement block stalls there with just a corner of the concrete floor cut out. The wall was about 5 feet high so my head stuck up above it as I stood and did #1. Several passersby looked me in the eye during the process.

Back at the table, Cat needed the facility for a far different, more pressing reason. I told her of the dirt floor and that she would have to take her own paper. She left a Guff, Guff deposit in the dirt but was below the spectator line.

The fields are afire, smoke chokes out the sun and our lungs. Several times it was so thick that we couldn’t see across the road. Not as scary as the forest fire we survived in Guinea but not fun, either.

Its 40 Km to the Togo border from Lome. Aside from the Lion Killer stop we rolled steadily. The border checkpoint on the Togo side is a hectic hubbub of activity. I stood the guard while Cat did the Passport duty then they had her step around the corner, into a shack to get them stamped. She met an American, Sarah, from Spokane, Washington. Spokane is my old hometown. When Sarah finished checking her pile of Passports through she came out and we talked. She drives a huge Mercedes truck on an adventure tour of Africa. In fact she’s traveled here and in South America with Dragoman tours for more than 5 years. We posed, illegally between borders, for a picture in front of her truck. The guard can running over but she charmed him and we parted ways, under his curious stare, with promises of e-mails.

The Benin side seems boring after the rush of Togo. The Checkpoint has seating and takes each person in order. The street is cleaner and there is less traffic. We were through and ready to roll in just minutes. A couple from England, on a driving vacation stopped us and we talked about Africa for a few minutes.

The cycle path continued on the Benin side in the countryside. Grand Popo is just 20 km from the border. We checked the LPGB and chose a place called L’ Auberge de Grand Popo. It sounds like a great place and it’s 5 km further down the line. We reasoned that tomorrow we’d be glad to have done the 5 this afternoon.

Oops, the best laid plans. The Auberge isn’t on the highway, it’s off on a side street that soon became bumpy cement cobblestone. That was a disappointment then disappointment grew as the surface deteriorated to dirt, loose sandy dirt.

Then the biggest disappointment of all, when we finally got there the clerk stared over his book and unemotionally informed us that they were fully booked. We couldn’t believe it, we retreated back down the stairs and talked it over. I took one last run at the desk, asking if they had anything, a bungalow, room, suite? He just looked up for a moment, shook his head and said, “Fully booked”!

God, how we hate to backtrack and it's even more irritating on dirt and cobble. Just a short distance from the turn off is a place called L’ Etoile de Mer. We pulled in to check the place and met a couple, Matte and Tuula from Finland. They were having a Gin and Tonic so we joined them and ordered beers. Cat went to look at a room then returned with a disappointed look in her eye. She felt that the room was pretty plain but the price was not. Tulle said that they had looked at a room out of curiosity but hadn’t asked the price. They are staying at L’ Auberge and their room costs less and is definitely better than the one we are about to take. She commented that the drinks were the most expensive they’ve had here in Africa, too.

He, Matti is a writer of Finnish history and culture. The museum Villa Karo is adjacent to L’ Auberge. Surprisingly, it’s a Finnish-African Cultural Center. She is the talkative one, perhaps her English skills are better? She’s a Public Relations Director, we think for a publishing company. They found it hard to believe that we have cycled from Vaasa, Finland. We talked about malaria meds, they are on Larium but talked about a newer better one that is now available. She told us that the British who lived here in Africa were in the habit of drinking Gin and Tonic as an anti malaria medication. The tonic contains quinine, which is still the basis for most malaria prophylactics. Despite the medical value we chose to drink a beer as we enjoyed the conversation.

As the sun began to sink in the west we walked to the beach. It is really a beautiful, undeveloped place. Fishermen mending nets, others working on their boats and some just enjoying the sunset like we were. I even took a toe dip in the warm tropical waters.

The rest of this report isn’t very positive. The Hotel food wasn’t very good, the Pizza and service sucked and the cost was high. Though our room has AC it is only one speed and one temp. Hurricane force wind filled with ice. There is no hot water but the cold wasn’t real cold. The bed was firm but the top sheet was only a half sheet. Uncomfortable to the point of irritating. However, as Cat says, “It’s only for one night”!

December 30, 2003
Grand Popo to Cotonou
82 Kilometers

Cat went reconnoitering for a breakfast place without any luck. We were doomed to another meal here. They have no fruit, they have no jam, only bread and coffee. Well they have a list of omelets so we chose cheese. They were both cold and cheeseless. Why did we expect more?

We paid the excessive bill and got out ASAP. A nice countryside ride then we turned off onto concrete cobbles again. I wanted to see Ouidah, the only Port City in Benin until 1908. The city where thousands of Benin and East Togo natives were enslaved and shipped out to the US, Brazil and Haiti. It’s also a Voodoo center. They even boast of a Voodoo Festival in early January. We stopped at the Cultural Center but they had no info. It was to be the first of several disappointments in Ouidah. The young guy, Degboe, who greeted us, tried to be helpful. He introduced us to the Head Master but he spoke no English and had nothing to offer.

Quite by accident we came across the Temple of Serpents. It is fairly tacky looking but I wanted a picture. There is a cement statue of a black woman holding a snake. As we were dragging the bikes up the curb a host of young kids surrounded us. They wanted cash but had to settle for friendship. The only adult there was shocked than we didn’t want to leave the bikes with them and take a tour of the Temple. Our book said that they do have a few sleepy snakes inside. That was enough to keep Cat out!

Our next attempt was to see the Musee d’ Histoire d’ Ouidah. Hungry, we cycled up and tried to get a word in edgewise. Two of the boys from the Temple came running up, they had followed us. The curator was in deep conversation with a car full of French ladies. He did stop long enough to tell us that there was a place just down the street. We rode on but couldn’t find a real place. A local restaurant with a decent paint job drew us in.

Of course we couldn’t shake the two boys, they ran along behind and were soon hanging around the bikes. The waitress tried to explain her menu then invited me into the corrugated shed that is the kitchen. A dirt floor and a gas burner were the extent of her culinary tools. As for a menu, it was just as simple, rice.

While we ate the two boys stood outside the half wall and talked with each other. I began to think of my childhood. They reminded me of my brother and I. I told Cat that we didn’t ever eat in a restaurant until our family moved to California. Then it was truck stops along the way. I was a Freshman in High School then.

I bought 2 Cokes for them. As I ordered the waitress asked if I would buy one for her, too. Where does it stop once it begins? Like I tell those who hold their hand out to us, “We can’t feed everyone so we chose not to feed anyone”. I shook my head, no.

The boys moved inside the wall and took a table. They were legitimate customers now. They savored, the moment and the Coke. I could relate and probably enjoyed watching as much or more than they did the Coke.

The rice was spicy but good tasting. We hoped that it would stick and not just Guff Guff through our bodies. Oh, by the way, I tipped the waitress more than enough to pay for a Coke if she really wanted one. She had a broad smile spread over her pleasant face as we pushed across the loose sand and out onto the street. The boys tried but couldn’t stay with us? Too much Coke?

The Museum is housed in the Portuguese Fort that was established in 1721. The French ladies were exiting as we pushed in. One, who speaks English, apologized to Cat. She said that they were negotiating a deal for lunch and asked the woman to include us bet she couldn’t.

We took the bikes into the courtyard and a guy there made us move them around the corner, out of sight. Then when we started to buy tickets he told us that we must take a guided tour. We let him know that we were short of time as we still had a long way to cycle today. He said, “You must wait, the guide is eating lunch”. He was not expected back for and hour and there were no others. We pushed back out, bid him goodbye and pedaled out of Ouidah.

There are poles in front of some houses with white flags fluttering. These mark the home or office of Voodoo practitioners. There are a lot of locals that believe in it. Though it’s not “The Night of the Living Dead” kind of stuff it does dwell on worship of dead ancestors and they can put spells on your enemies.

The outskirts of Cotonou and traffic thickened. We continued on the bike/motorbike path until on busy streets in the city. The motorbikes that we shared the pathway with became thicker than thick and so did the air from the white smoke they all spew. They were aggressive, too. We had to ask, ask, ask but did work our way through the haze and hectic mass of cars, trucks and motorbikes.

The road became bedlam as we neared the Pont Ancien (Old Bridge). An appropriate name as they are building a wide new span adjacent to it. The traffic all funnels down to two lanes on it. As we fought for space Cat called out that she thought we should push on the sidewalk. I had watched and the traffic was going so slowly that we could use the technique she had developed as we left Lome, Togo. We just rode out into the fray and kept pace.

Hotel du Lac is visible from the bridge and we were glad to see it. The construction had us riding dirt and rocks then a left and we pulled into the Hotel parking lot. The security guard challenged us. He told us to park away from the building. I was in no mood to be pushed after being pushed by the traffic. We compromised and I leaned them off to one side. Cat went in secured a room. The place is pretty nice, located right on the water.

They didn’t want the bikes inside. Cat was tired and wanted to get in so she decided that we should leave the unnecessary bags on them. Little did she know that the storage place was down two flights of steep stairs. They will sleep in a dungeon then when we repack for our flight to Nairobi we’ll have to haul them back up the stairs.

Our room overlooks the pool, it's spacious, cool and has CNN, a bargain at 35,000 CFA or about $70 including breakfast. We showered and lounged, even had a glass of wine.

Dinner is served on a deck overlooking the lagoon and out toward the Pont Ancien. We were seated and soon joined by two other couples. The first, Tosin, Sade and their daughter, Toni. They’re from Nigeria, here on a quiet vacation. He thought we should cycle through Nigeria then she asked him where he would cycle and feel safe. He changed his mind. The other, we’d seen in the lobby as we came in. We decided that they must be French. It’s always great to hear English, our brand of English being spoken. David and Barbara are from Stinson Beach, California but are currently living in New York. He’s a Professor at Oswego University. He began an interest in Africa as a Peace Corp Volunteer. After his tour he returned and studied African History. He’s been published several times and lectures on the region here and north to Mali and Burkina Faso. Barbara owned a clothing store in Santa Barbara for several years. Our paths almost crossed there as both Cat and I lived there in the past. She is now a Veterinary Assistant.

There are times when you meet people and are instantly friends. This is one of those times. We talked into the wee hours, for us. It was after 11:00 PM when we finally gave in to the fatigue. They were jet lagged, we were bike lagged.

December 31, 2003
New Years Eve in Cotonou, Benin

Sleepy, we were again dog-tired. It was 8:00 AM by the time we finally rolled out and showered. Breakfast here is fruit, good fruit, coffee, good coffee and croissants, they’re good, too. David and Barbara came in and we continued the great conversation of last evening. Another similarity between he and I came up in a discussion about cars. He too loves old cars and told me that his favorite was his Austin Healey. In my ongoing love affair of cars I owned and loved 2 of them at different times. We do have a lot in common.

We arranged for a car from the Hotel to take us to AAT, Agence Africaine de Tourist. In the car and out onto the bridge road. Traffic was being turned back, due to an accident. Our driver tried going back but couldn’t turn around. He gave up and drove returned to the Hotel telling us to take Motos. There is no way we’re getting on one of those squirrelly little things in this traffic and air pollution.

As we reentered Hotel Du Lac to complain we met David and Barbara. They were seated, waiting for the car they have hired to take them to Ouidah. It didn’t take long to figure out that the driver had thought he could slip in a quick 2000 CFA trip for us and get back for them. When the traffic slowed his progress he dumped us. David and Barbara were upset with our story and demanded that he take us to AAT on the way out of town. We loved it because we had more time to talk and discover other links to each other. I was telling David about our days with the band, Acadiana and mentioned fiddle player, Phil Salazar. Barbara and Cat were talking but she heard and asked, “You mean Phil Salazar was with your band? I know him!” She has a best friend in Santa Barbara, a Harpist. Phil used to play with her group at times. She is also friends with the guy who plays mandolin with Phil’s Blue Grass group, Rincon Ramblers. It really is a tiny, tiny world, isn’t it?

You Mean Phil Salazar?

The driver had a tough time finding AAT. He had to stop, David went with him, inside another travel agency and they gave the directions. It was another of those moments of strange emotion, parting like long time friends, promising to get together again in California. Hugs, even some emotion. Barbara urged us to come along with them to Ouidah.

We scurried across the street ducking and dodging the motor scooters as they honked, waved and drove off into the haze and dust.

Nadine, the Chef Agent spent a lot of time exploring possibilities and prices with us. There is no easy or inexpensive way to get from here to Uganda. Prices of each option range between $1,100 to $1,250. The lowest price includes a back track to The Ivory Coast. We hate backtracking and we don’t like the idea of tempting fate by setting back down in Cote D’ Ivoire again. We chose the highest price with a layover in Cameroon. We’ll depart here at 2:15 PM on Sunday and arrive in Kampala, Uganda at 8:50 AM Monday morning. A long night with an 8-hour layover in Cameroon. Oh well, at least we’ll be in daylight when we rebuild the bikes and cycle onward.

Hungry, Nadine pointed out Dunya, a typical African restaurant, just down the street. My food was very good, a fish and rice dish. Cat’s chicken was what a friend in Russia used to call Sportsman Chicken, skinny and tough.

The taxi back was stuck in the bridge traffic again. We got out and walked. On the way we spotted a Cyber Café but decided to try the ones closer to the Hotel. It was hot and sticky, uncomfortable. We made a stop at the Super Marche around the corner for essentials, water and wine. The Internet place next to the Hotel didn’t open at 3:00 as the girl had projected earlier? A guy there told us that it was closed and wouldn’t open again until after the New Year holiday.

	Bridge Traffic

Relaxing, we waited for the afternoon heat to dissipate. At 5:00 we set off across the bridge on foot, again. It was still warm, dusty and smoky. The Cyber Café is a 3rd floor walkup. I filtered through the 70+ messages while Cat entered names of our newfound friends onto our web site list. Web Master Wally has received the pictures and text. Our big adventure will soon be shared with everyone who tunes in.

It was beginning to turn dusky outside. Our desire to call Visa to let them know we will be charging our Hotel and Flight costs was thwarted by our dislike of the dark. We’ll come back day after tomorrow and make that call early, before we do the banking and ticket buying. (They and most other businesses are closed tomorrow, New Years Day.

As we enjoyed a nice relaxing glass of wine in the room, Cat decided to try a call to DHL. They had promised to deliver our package from Base Camp Charlie this afternoon. It was 7:00 PM and she was surprised when they answered. The guy told her that they had sent it out but the driver had a problem and brought it back to the office. Cat applied her most convincing technique and he finally gave in, he will get it here tonight.

We dined on the patio overlooking the lagoon, again. Soup and pasta, safe and sound. We’re both feeling better, I consider myself as normal as I’ll get here in Africa. Cat still hasn’t stemmed the flow of the Guff, Guff. She does feel good and the liquid has thickened, a good sign.

There are two couples here, together. The guys are European, the girls African. The girls came in dressed and ready to go dancing. The guys drifted off one at a time and got ready to party. We offered to take their picture and that led to a brief discussion. One couple is from South Africa the other Nigeria. When we told them that we were skipping Nigeria the girl seemed disappointed but the guy suggested that it could be dangerous if you don’t know the right places to travel. They’re here because it is Benin is a quieter place. We decided that our decision is a good one.

The package arrived, Cat went down to claim it. She is sure that it was the Manager from DHL that did the special delivery, he was in coat and tie. We had a wonderful time opening and discovering the contents. It was Christmas on New Years Eve. Two Armadillo, anti flat, tires. Two thorn proof tubes for the bikes. A new Lonely Planet and Michelin Map of East Africa and best of all, the entire set of 3 Acadiana CDs. The latest is good but we enjoyed the old sounds and memories into the wee hours of the final night of 2003. I was awake at the stroke of 12:00 and nudged Cat, she sort of acknowledged 2004 then it was lights out. What a great year we have enjoyed! 018 Supplies From Home Mpeg 060 Happy New Year

January 1, 2004
New Years Day in Cotonou

A typical, lazy new Years Day except there’s no Rose Parade or Football games. We lazed in and finally went to breakfast at 9:00 AM. The couples we met last night were coming in as we left. They did dance the night away. The two guys are from Germany and that’s the connection.

We walked up the street then back past the Hotel and down the street. Not much happening today. A tailoring shop across the street is open and will patch Cat’s threadbare cycling shorts. Back in the room, she took them back over then went shopping for a picnic luncheon. I typed and listened to Acadiana. God, what great memories!

We ate on the bed and watched an old movie, An Affair to Remember. I went back to typing and watching at the same time. A real tearjerker, we loved the story and that great old time acting. A New Years Day treat and part of the treat was not having to watch football.

Dinner down stairs, we both had Pizza. Pretty good but the conversations were even better. A family seated to our right was speaking English. Cat thought they might be Swedish? I asked and they responded, Springfield, Missouri. They, Craig and Debbie are here with daughter Lindsey and son, Erik visiting their son/brother Matt who is serving in the Peace Corp. What a nice family. A friend of Matt’s, Zachary, who had two African masks, made by his uncle, joined them. The family will take them home for him.

Matt and Masks

Matt is interested in our trip because he wants to travel on bicycle when he finishes his Peace Corp tour next year. Erik has a Music Management Company called Buzz, in Nashville, Tennessee. We talked music, his experience and mine with Acadiana.

Another couple, Tosin and Sade along with their cute little daughter, Toni, were seated on our left. They are another example of modern Africa. From Nigeria on holiday, they own a computer-programming firm. Sade has 4 brothers living and working in Texas. It all added up to a busy dinner and we loved it.

Cat has been reading the new East Africa Lonely Planet and studying the map. She has highlighted the areas that we MUST SEE. Her research also brings us to the conclusion that the Gorillas we want to see are way west of Kampala. And, we just saw a report on BBC about the Ugandan government arming civilians to resist insurgents in the east of the country. So, we are now considering a new plan, fly to Nairobi and cycle out to the loop that will include Masai Mara Reserve, the Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater then down to Mt. Kilimanjaro. There may be a savings in time and money here, too.

We are becoming addicted to the TV. There is an Arabic channel that airs programs in English with subtitles. Crossing Jordan is one that we’d never bother to watch back home. It began, Cat snoozed and I forced my eyes to stay open only to find, after an hour, that it is to be continued. Darn!

January 2, 2004
A Busy Day in Cotonou

Up and at em’. Breakfast and the staff virtually demanded a tip? I told them that we had no money with us but would do something before we leave. Don’t you love it when someone assumes you should leave a tip?

A walk across the bridge to the Internet Shop to call Visa. We decided that before we request $3,000 for airline tickets and excess baggage we would forewarn them. Hopefully to avoid a hold on the account from security, trying to protect us. It was a 20 minute hold, listening to a recorded voice tell us how important we are to them. Finally a real person and some bad news. Though the card has a fairly high limit we can only advance 20% of it. Not enough to buy tickets and pay the excess for baggage.

Hoping that we may save enough by changing our plans and flying to Nairobi rather than Kampala, Uganda, we took a cab to AAT agency. Another disappointment, Nadine did the numbers and the savings is only about $30 per ticket. We’ll still need almost $3,000 for tickets and baggage costs. Oh boy, wonder why we thought it would be inexpensive traveling in Africa?

Next stop was Financial Bank. Nadine thought they might accept our American Express card. Another disappointment, they don’t take the AmEx and it is a long process, getting money from our Visa Card. We gave the teller our card and Passport then took a seat. A young guy, Mark from Holland, told us he’s been waiting for almost 3 hours. He gave them his card and Passport then went back to his Hotel and packed. The bank closes for lunch from 12:30 until 3:00 PM. When Mark finally got his money we were heartened. We shouldn’t have been.

As the clock ticket down then beyond 12:30 we waited then they called us to the window. More disappointment, they told us to come back after 3:00 PM. I insisted on knowing why and the girl explained that they fax our request to Visa for approval and the response hasn’t returned, yet. I asked why they don’t use the computer and Internet. She said they don’t have that. I suggested that they have a telephone thus they should be able to access the Internet. She didn’t get it but gave me a long explanation on why they couldn’t accept verification on the telephone. Now this is an area where Africa should invest in growth and technology. Getting money into the economy is vital for growth and increased earnings.

Walking back across the bridge to Hotel Du Lac we plotted out a new plan. We’ll ask the Hotel to let us charge $500 extra on our Visa Card. That’ll get us back on the road with the least expense even if they charge a fee. If that fails we’ll e-mail Base Camp Charlie and have him send it via Western Union. Expensive but when you’ve gotta, you’ve gotta!

Another darn it, David and Barbara had stopped by and left a note. We would have loved to see them, have lunch or just sit and talk for a few minutes.

A sandwich from the restaurant in our air conditioning. The Porter was just finishing cleaning when we arrived. He had the door standing open and the room was full of blood sucking mosquitoes. We’re sure that he will want a tip, too. Why can’t he see that leaving the slider open lets the little suckers in? We asked him to spray but he must have forgotten that, too.

Cat did pick up her patched cycling shorts. They look great. The front desk at the Hotel wasn’t able to tell us whether they could help us with the cash. The manager is out until after 3:00 PM. So, I typed and Cat caught up, for the 3rd time, on the BBC News.

Back to the bank and after another long wait we did get 1,193,000 CFA or $2,380. It’s hard to believe that the same amount in Euro is only €1830? Remember when our Dollar was worth more than the Euro? What has happened?

We stopped at the Internet Café and tried to call the Hotel but the phone system was down. Quandary, we wanted to know whether they would advance or not so that we could have Base Camp Charlie send a Western Union care package if their answer was no. Rather than walk back and forth we let Charlie know that he might have to make the WU run then walked back, hoping for the best but prepared for the worst.

Hassan, the Hotel Manager returned and has decided that he can help. He advanced 425€ on our Visa card. Oh, he did charge a 5% fee to cover the costs that Visa will assess but that is a great deal less expensive than the Western Union alternative. So, we have enough to buy tickets and pay for the excess baggage.

Dinner on the deck, again, this is getting to be a habit but an easy life style habit. We were in the midst of food when a group, a family came in and were seated next to us. Wow, more Americans! The Peterson family, Craig and Debbie along with their son Eric and daughter Lindsey are here visiting Matt, their other son who is in the Peace Corp. He is stationed in the north. They all visited his village then toured around Benin. They are a heart of the heartland family from Springfield, Missouri. We had a great time talking with them and being a part of their family even for a short time.

January 3, 2003
Last Day in Cotonou?

I had suggested that Matt have breakfast with us last night then we would work on the bikes together. It was 9:00 AM by the time we were ready to go so I called his room. He had already had breakfast. Amazing, I had thought that a young guy, on his own, would have slept in. He said that he would join us in 15 minutes. He’s not your run of the mill young person.

We ate and chatted with him. He told of having Amebic Dysentery, several times since he’s been here. Perhaps, because he doesn’t like to cook and ends up eating food from the street in his village? Funny but it is seems normal, here, to talk about bowl movements and stomach problems while eating. (Guff Guff discussions.)

A logistical decision, Matt and I will prepare the bikes while Cat goes to the Travel Agency for the tickets and mails off a package of keepsakes, CDs etc to home. Debbie and Angelon, friends of Matt’s and Peace Corp Volunteers, joined us too. With a little help from my friends we go the bikes set to travel. In the process I replaced the tubes with thorn proofs and installed the two belted tires. The two almost new tires and four tubes became the property of Matt. He has a bike and he knows several villagers who can use a new tire or tube. What a nice young guy!

Cat did get the package into the mail but came back with a bit of bad news. We had understood that our departure would be at 2:15 PM but Nadine reminded her that they use a 24-hour clock and 2:15 is AM! Yikes, we now have to stay up most of the night then wait in the airport in Douala from 6:00 AM until midnight and fly all that night to Kenya. Definitely the makings of another day like the ones we experienced when we flew to Greenland.

After lunch we arranged for Tiarou, the driver, to take us to the Airport. Yes, it’s 12 hours early but Nadine had told us that if we got the bikes and bags there in the afternoon they would accept them as freight and we’d save a substantial amount.

When we pulled up a Porter pushed a cart toward us. I told him we’d need two carts and started to pull the cart over to load the bikes. The guy pulled the cart away from me and started shouting. He had misunderstood. I wanted him to get another cart and take the bags, I’d take the bikes. I tried to get the cart but he ripped it from my grip. We were both getting pretty upset. I stepped on his toes and pulled he yanked back. I called out for a Policeman, none close by? Tiarou came to my rescue. He pulled the bags back into his van and told us that we’d have to wait at the other end of the terminal.

He dropped us, helped carry the bags and bikes inside and I gave him a nice tip. His parting words, “If you need me, call”.

I watched the things while Cat went looking for the freight counter. Bad news, there is no such thing? We were now stuck here for the next 12 hours and it was uncomfortably hot. I gave up and called from the Teleboutique at the end of the terminal. He was back shortly and just as amiable as ever.

With the bikes and bags safely stowed again, we sat by the pool and watched a gal, Firme, take a swimming lesson. The instructor was trying to get her to swim across the pool with her face down, in the water. After the lesson Cat gave her a suggestion, to hang on the side of the pool, practice kicking and putting her face in the water. She’s here from Togo with her husband, a Doctor who has a satellite office here.

She and Sylvian sat at the next table and we had a nice talk. He speaks no English but she is a great interpreter. Firme doesn’t usually come along but they will be here for 4 days and it is a mini vacation for her.

We spent the remainder of the evening sitting in the small lobby. Hassan, the Manager, came in and was surprised to see us back. We met his wife and son without introductions.

They went on to their apartment then, in a few minutes he called down and invited us up for a drink. We were both tired and had had enough wine so thanked him and continued watching CNN.

Tiarou wheeled in a little after midnight and we went through the loading process again. At the Airport we got the things out and onto Porter number 23s control. I did take one bike and he the bags and the other. He was the exact opposite of the jerk we had met earlier today. As we checked in with Customs the news that the flight wouldn’t be in spread through the group of passengers. It wasn’t a very happy time for most of them. Several confronted the Cameroon Airlines employees and yelled their disapproval. We were ready to go so slightly disappointed but this would mean that we could get some sleep and it would cut the 18-hour wait down. They told us to come back tomorrow at noon.

We met a French guy, Daniel, a teacher in Cameroon. He was upset because he’s supposed to be back at work tomorrow. I walked down to the Teleboutique to call for the van, again. It was closed and the nearby coin phone was broken. Daniel used one of the other stranded passenger’s cell phone and got the van back.

He told us of his school and how he had lived and worked no Africa for 8 years then went back to France. It was too boring so he signed back on for another tour here. He likes most of the things in Africa but obviously not the Manana attitude.

It was 2:30 AM by the time we got checked back in and into bed. The guys there gave us a ground floor room and helped get the bikes and bags in.

We were dog tired!

Sunday, January 4, 2004
Mammy and Pappy’s Birthday
Another Last Day in Cotonou!

Yes, my Mother and Father shared January 4th as their birthdays. He was 2 years her senior. They would have been 88 and 86 today. Mom was gone when I took my other turn around the globe. Pappy worried a lot then and probably would now, too. They were good parents and though they had their problems in later life, they were always there for us when we, my sister and brothers were kids. They gave us a great foundation.

We woke up at 7:30 AM. Cat doesn’t think that she slept well but isn’t sure. We had the usual fruit, coffee and croissant breakfast. We’ve grown quite fond of this fruit and coffee morning ritual, it reminds us of home. (Cat finds it disgusting that the Breakfast Manager virtually demands a tip for service. We both feel that at home it is rare to tip for a buffet. In deference to his pushy technique we should say that there are too many servers and they do hover. Maybe tips are all they get paid?)

Our morning exercise program, a walk to the Super Marche. Water and cookies for the flight, assuming it actually lifts off today. We considered hoofing it to the Internet Shop but time was fleeting and, they may not even be open on Sunday?

The word was that we would go to the airport at 12:00 noon. Tiarou came rolling in a little late, we loaded and the three of us, Pat, Cat and Daniel, headed off with him to the airport. Everyone was upbeat, the lines moved forward. We were last and happy to be because that means our bikes and bags will be last on, maybe on top of the pile?

Daniel watched as we set the bags and bikes on the belt and they were weighed in. When the guy there began figuring the cost of excess baggage Daniel went to bat for us. We could catch the word “Cadeaux”, gift as he rattled off reasons why we were upset, having been here several times then having to return to the Hotel. The gateman turned to us, waved his hand in the air and said, “Okay, no cost for excess”!

We’ll Not Forget You, Daniel and the Help You’ve Given Us!

After stan