Real Adventure, Real Risks

By now you all know that we were robbed at gunpoint. You’ll see that story in detail in our next exciting chapter of this journal. Luckily, we had all the pictures backed up.

We can’t allow one NIGHTMARE to spoil a lifetime DREAM!

No, we won’t abandon our Odyssey. All too often many of us allow fear to run our lives, ruin our lives! Our greatest fear is that we reach death’s door and realize that by living in fear we haven’t really lived, at all.

We remain “The Crazy Senior Citizen and Hearty Heart Attack Victim”,
Cycling Around the World.

Copacabana to Lima
What you’re about to read is what we saw and experienced while cycling from the Bolivian Border, along the shores of Lake Titicaca, over the Andes, through beautiful Cuzco, the former Incan Capital, and down to the Pacific Ocean and the thicker air at sea level. See Machu Picchu and the Nazca Lines through our camera lens. There’s no easy way to describe either, you’ll have to draw your own conclusions. Thanks to Wally our Wonderful WebMaster Wizard you can find at www.RedArrowGroup.com . There are a huge number of pictures here, a new record that we’ll try hard not to match ever again, Honest Wally. Also, we lost our pictures and couldn’t have completed this volume of our journal without untold hours of help from both Wally and his son, Matt. Thanks to them, here it is. So, mount your stationary bikes and get to where the air is crisp, cold and thin. Have a good read.

Copacabana, Bolivia to Lima, Peru
February 10th to March 23rd, 2005

February 10, 2005
Copa, Cold and Rainy

Two disappointments when we awoke this morning. It was raining, cold and gray out the window and, they ran out of Maple Syrup. We were looking forward to taking the boat to both the Islas de Sol and Luna and Pancakes with syrup. So, I ate a pancake with jelly, Cat passed. We also passed on the morning boat. Decided to take the afternoon ride to the Island of the Sun. Sitting inside a cold clammy boat didn’t sound like fun.

There is still dancing in the streets, the Carnaval goes on and on. Ham and Cheese for a picnic in the room as we looked out on the gloom. I began working on the pictures, the gloom thickened, the drizzle and cold continued. So, we scrapped the afternoon boat ride, too.

Street Carnival

Tired of typing and fiddling with pictures, we asked the Hotel to play the movie Mission Impossible, in English, on their closed circuit. So, there went the afternoon and when that was finished, in the early evening we watched Mission Impossible, II. The day remained dismal, so much so that we kept the space heater going all afternoon.

Fernando brought our laundry to us, it was still damp. Hanging for 2 days just didn’t do it. We spread it around the room to finish drying.

I found a Lonely Planet on Peru in the Hotel loaner Library. It is so much more comprehensive that we decided that it would do more good with us than here.

Dinner down, pasta to carb up, for both of us. Met a young couple from England, here on their honeymoon. There was another couple, he from Germany, she is Bolivian. They have a baby that was fussing, Mom took it to the room while Dad finished his dinner then he took his turn and she returned. Nice couple, tough family duty.

February 11, 2005
Copacabana, Bolivia to Juli, Peru
60 Kilometers
Peru, Our 42nd Country

Rain again, but we can’t let that stop us, we’re goin’ to Peru. Still raining and still no syrup but we can’ let little things like that stop us, today. As we were leaving a fellow, originally from England, had to know what we were up to. He now lives in and works in Washington DC. His son has been urging him to ride bicycle with him, a 50-mile ride from New Jersey to DC, I think he said. We urged him to go for it.

Fully wrapped in rain gear, we pushed up the rock road then rode toward the border. The rain was steady, the road up and down. Cat began having breathing problems, I seemed to be improving. A truck passed slowly, there were several people in the back. One, a young boy threw something, a rock we think, at Cat. I yelled at them, he just laughed and waved back. Sort of a bad ending to an otherwise wonderful visit in Bolivia. Awe, we won’t blame Bolivianos for one kid’s stupid act.

The border crossing was a cinch, I didn’t even have to go in the Bolivian side. Cat took my Passport and they stamped both without problem. I stood guard and kidded with 3 boys. They were asking for money, I told them no then asked for a photo. They objected until I gave them each one of our cards. Then they sort of posed, except the one in the middle, he has a cleft palate and has survived a bad operation. His lip is swollen and his smile crooked. He covered his face as I pushed the shutter button.

The Peruvian border was just as easy. They stamped the Passports then the Immigration Officer came out and looked at the bikes. He and a couple of other guys had a conversation about the tires and water bottles. I gave them cards and they waved as we rode down the hill, into Peru. While I entertained them Cat walked around looking for the best deal at the money exchanges. They are all about the same, the rate seems to be 3.25 Soles for a dollar or for 8 Bolivianos.

The countryside, the people, even the weather all look the same as Bolivia, at least for now. We’re cycling along the south shore of Titicaca. The road is flat and bumpy asphalt. A few small hills that brought Cat to a push mode. She’s still breathing hard and struggling.

Traffic is light and they give us plenty of room. Hungry, we pulled into a Pueblo called Pomata and found only a roadside line of food stalls. It’s a busy, dirty looking bus stop. After parking the bikes across the street in a concrete V ditch we walked back and forth trying to choose the cleanest looking booth. They all have about the same fare. We finally bought in at one that had two guys dining in coat and tie. We chose the same food that they were eating and took a spot at the next bench. Soup first, Chairo, the local favorite. Cat thought it looked like vomit but it tastes great. Then salty, fatty meat with plenty of bones, rice and we ordered some fried cheese. Watching the gals wash dishes in cold dirty water put us on Guff Guff alert.

The next 21 Kilometers were fairly flat and simple, then a real up. Near the top we had a great looking back view of Titicaca and snow covered mountains beyond. After a long push Juli lay below us, they call it “The Little Roma” because it sports 3 large Cathedrals. The down was as severe as the up had been. We rolled in, got a picture of one of the 3 then began the hunt for lodging.

Drums, Flutes, Dancers

Juli to Titicaca

The first place was closed, the neighbors all said to keep ringing the bell but there was no answer. Cat went looking while I sat on the curb and watched our things. She came back with only one prospect, the Hostal Municipal. No hot water, not very nice but they do have a room. There is a place in our LP but Cat thought she’d been there. When we got to the corner she found that it was one she’d been told had no rooms. A guy stopped and introduced himself, seems that his Mother owns the place and they do have a room but they also have friends, a band, who are there preparing to party, all night tonight and there’ll be no sleeping. A local party sounds like fun but sleep sounds better to us, right now. So, Municipal it is.

We pulled the clothing bags off and parked the semi loaded bikes in the Managers office. Then he and a young boy helped us carry our essentials up. The room on the 3rd floor has a bathroom but we discovered that there was no water? So, the Man took us on up the stairs to the 4th. There, we had a room with twin beds and a toilet/sink just outside our door. It would be a shared bath but there are no other guests on this floor. Oh yes, it’s cold as a meat locker and there’s no heat. He discounted the price to 15 Soles, a bargain at $4.50 US.

Too cold to go out or even dress so we just kept our cycling cloths on and huddled under the blankets. At 6:30 we donned our raincoats and walked in the drizzle to a Chicken Restaurant up the street. Only one other couple there, service was fast, they only serve soup, chicken and chips. Cat noticed that the hands on the clock on the wall were only at 5:45 PM. We asked the Manager and he confirmed, the time is one hour earlier here than back in Bolivia. Geez, more time to kill until bedtime.

We chose one of the several Internet Shops and spent an hour and a half reading and answering then walked back to Municipal in pouring rain. The room was colder and the water in the sink and toilet stopped running. The boy came up and did something, we had water but it was so cold we had a hard time washing the chicken grease off our hands.

Reading about Puno in our newly liberated Peru LP Guide Book filled an hour or so but it was finally lights out at 8:30 PM, local time.

(Need to confess, the confiscation of the LP wasn’t all one way. Cat dropped her sunglasses as we left Hotel Rosario, we hope that Fernando found them. The book was a gift, voluntary or involuntary, by a previous guest. They were very thorough, marked all the interesting places they’d visited.)

February 12, 2005
Juli to Puno
84 Kilometers

The mattresses are so thin that the slats press into our backs. Though uncomfortable, we both slept pretty well. Awoke at 5:30 but stayed under the heavy covers until 6:30. 10 hours in bed but we both feel stiff and sore. Maybe more the bad bed than the cycling soreness. We found a little place that was open for early birds and had egg sandwiches and coffee.

Setting off in cold rain, we even donned out ski masks. The road is flat, the sun finally won the battle with the clouds and the day became filled with small celebrations in small Pueblos. Almost every little village had a flute and drum band playing as the villagers danced circles around them.

Today is my day for feeling puny. I have been gasping and struggling. The road has become bumpy and tougher to ride. Acor, another little Pueblo with another dance going on, drew us in for lunch. We parked next to the door and took a seat. A disheveled old guy came up and started asking for money. He took his hat off to show us his gray hair. I showed him mine and asked his age, he won when he said, “Ochenta y Cuatro”, 84.

He wouldn’t leave us alone, even tried to make a move on

the soup as we ate. The gal there shunned my idea of buying him soup. She shooed him away but he just went out and around to the other door. He’d watch as people finished eating then raid their tables, putting the scraps in a plastic bag. Kind of sad to see but no worse than watching guys like this back home, digging in the dumpsters behind the restaurants.

Food made me feel better, the road continued flat the skies cleared and we rolled the final 30 Ks. The scenery, farm land and hills off to the left suddenly changed, we were back on the shore of Titicaca. The locals were drying reeds and had arranged them symmetrically on the shoreline. Great photos of them and the tiny adobe huts built into the rocks of the hillside.

Puno Carnival

Carnival March

Then Puno, we had seen a Best Western Hotel in our Guide Book. Somehow we went directly to the door. I stood guard and talked with a Pedi Cab driver. He was interested in cycling around the world and told me that he could do it, if he had the money. I believe he could.

Our room is okay, but cold. They brought a space heater then, as it began to warm the power went out. In a couple of minutes, the power was on and Cat jumped into the shower. The bathroom has no window, the power failed again and stayed off for about 5 minutes. This left Cat standing in the warm water, in the dark. Tough to shower, she hated the dark but loved the hot water.

Dinner down, pizza, a srange flaky crust pizza prepared by Paustos.

TV and sleep.

Sunday, February 13, 2005
The Floating Islands

Down for the included breakfast and the best of it was meeting Tom and Colet from Minnesota. The best of that was that they are going to the Floating Islands and felt sure that we could join the tour. Their friends, Joe and Rose joined us at 9:00 AM, the Tour Guide agreed that we could join in, we paid him boarded the bus and were off. Very spontaneous but we like that and being with English speaking friends.

New Friends and The Floating Islands

Bus to the bay then all aboard, about 20 of us from all parts of the world. The sun pushed through the clouds and we were off to enjoy sun and a step back in time. The people of Uros have lived on their pile of floating reeds for more than 800 years. Actually the original Uros people have intermarried with the Aymara and into extinction. Originally the Uros moved to the reed Islands as protection from the more aggressive Collas and Incas. Yupanquil, our guide, explained that there are more than 30 inhabited Islands but only 6 are prepared to receive tourists. The other 24 still live and make their living much as they have for centuries. They rely on the reeds for food, boat building, (Though today the reed boats are strictly for tourism.) their homes and rickety observation towers. Oh yes, don’t forget the Islands, they’re reeds, too.

Incan Music

Stepping off the boat onto Uros, the main Tourist Island, is a strange feeling. The reeds are soft, spongy. Yupanquil invited us, in fact almost required us to jump up and down to get the full effect. The reeds are piled on constantly as the lower, older ones rot. Tom kept sniffing and complaining of a bad smell then figured it out, methane gas bubbling up from the rotting reeds below. We were seated in a semi circle and he filled us in on daily life and the history of the Islands. Another demand form Yupanquil, we all had to taste a reed. They peel back the outer layer from the root end, it tasted like the smell of the lake, not too good. Then, we took a short walking tour and photos of the inhabitants, mostly women, sewing, weaving and trying to sell their handiwork. The few visible men drive Reed Boats and take tourists for short rides. After trying a taste of the reeds Tom, Colet and Joe took a short cruise to the next Island. We did it in our conventional power boat.

Guided Tour

There is a floating school, a Post Office and of course plenty of souvenir shops. They do fish and hunt birds but these lucky ones make most of their living from visitors like us. Rose pointed out a pair of ducks sitting on eggs. I moved slowly closer to get a picture. As I shot it became apparent that they were stuffed, a tacky photo op. There’s a young couple seated in a reed hut, showing off their twins. We took photos then I gave them money. I had no change so handed them 10 Soles, about $3.00 US. Their eyes almost rolled back into their heads, a lot of money. Joe and Tom took a couple of pics, too and said they’d pay me. Between them I think we made out pretty well? What nice new friends, they may have been the best of the trip!

Minnesota Crew

"You Must Be Crazy!" Amyara

We six walked to a Chinese Restaurant for lunch. I talked so much that I almost missed the food. Back, we sort of sauntered through the Plaza and down some interesting streets. Joe and Rose’s memory stick was full. They were going to buy another but I invited them to bring their camera by and I’d try to download them onto a CD. More fun with them. Joe has been a fund-raiser for low income housing for many years. Rose was a political activist in the Philippines.

I spent the afternoon playing catch up with the journal pages. Cat found sunglasses to replace her broken pair as well as water for tomorrow’s journey. Dinner with friends, again. We tried Alpaca, it was okay, not sensational but okay. Tom is a University Professor and Colet has Acupuncture Clinics, 5 we think. In fact, as we were getting to the boat Joe had needles in his ears, neck and hands. A walking treatment. Parting, awe that sweet sorrow, they’re going to Copacabana tomorrow. We recommended Hotel Rosario.

February 14, 2005
Valentines Day in Puno

Up early, Cat was off to the laundry with almost all our cloths and out on other errands. I glued myself to the keyboard and made fair progress on the journal. When she returned we took a walk back up to the Plaza and stopped for lunch. On the way back we talked with a woman at the Travel Agency that arranged the Island Tour yesterday. She tried to call Machu Picchu to see if we could reserve a room at The Sanctuary. Our 4 friends fro Minnesota stayed there and loved it. The Hotel is right at the gate of Machu Picchu. It is very expensive, way beyond our budget but this is a once in a lifetime experience. I’m having trouble convincing Cat that it’s worth it but I have a Dream, that we will take the bikes there for pictures. The woman tried, failed because the staff was at lunch, then gave us the telephone number. We decided that we’d get to Cuzco where they have another Hotel and try to book there. An attempt at getting e-mails failed, too. Seems that Yahoo is down this afternoon.

Back in the room, Cat watched TV while I typed. It’s cold and raining, that made the decision about dinner. Downstairs again but this time in the full restaurant, steak and fries. Pretty good. E topped it off with Ice Cream Sundaes as a Valentines Day treat.

A little TV then sleep.

February 15, 2005
Puno to Juliaca
43 Kilometers

Down for the decent, included breakfast at 7:30 AM then loaded and off by 9:30. Around the corner and we ran head on into a Bus that had just hit a car, head on. Carefully working our way through the glass on the road, we looked up and got another surprise. Our thought that we’d be looping out, around the point along the railroad tracks disappeared. In its place we could see a stiff climb. So, we pushed onward and upward. The road circles round then back. The view extends to all of Puno and beyond. There’s a bad looking concrete likeness of a Puma near the top of the hill. Between the steep and lack of air, we really struggled.

Once we topped out and rounded the hilltop the view was all Titicaca. The sun was struggling with the clouds and the air, what little there was of it, was cold. Cat even spotted a patch of dirty snow next to the road. A long winter’s leftover? The farms at lakeshore had ditches dug to take the water and leave high places where grass would grow. An ingenious way to extend swampland to productive property.

Flying down the other side, back to lake level and flat. Nothing of real excitement so we just pedaled. Entering Juliaca we past a line of billboards then cycled through a hoard of pedi-cabs to the Plaza. The Hotel we had decided on looked pretty bad from the outside. So we circled the Plaza and pulled up at Hotel Don Carlos. The lobby was as cold as a meat locker but they did have an elevator. I checked out the room and it was adequate, even a wall heater.

It was now 2:00 PM and we were starving. I took the bikes up one at a time. The new water bottles leaked badly. We ordered lunch in the restaurant. It was so cold that we shivered as we ate the soup and sandwich. Bad news, the hot water won’t be hot for an hour. More bad news, the wall heater is over worked and ineffective. Cat called and they brought another, a sort of orange electric ball of flame. We feared that it would fall and set the place on fire, however, we loved the warmth. Cat had to crawl under the covers while it did its job. We got hooked on a movie and watched until 6:00. By then we had hot water showers and dressed, with long underwear, for dinner.

Rain was pelting down and the cold was even colder. So, we did the only thing that two reasonable people could in this situation. We ordered in, dinner in the tiny room and another movie. Actually stayed awake until 9:30.

February 16, 2005
Juliaca to Pucara
63 Kilometers
Sister Joan’s Birthday

Yes, little Joan Darlene is 62 today, another Senior citizen in our family.

Halleluiah, we awoke to a bright sunny morning. Breakfast, just bread and water, you know, coffee and toast. We loaded the bikes in the room, left the leaking bottle for the Hotel help and I brought them down to the lobby, one at a time. We were out in the sun and traffic by 8:30 AM. Most of the traffic is 3 wheeled pedi-cabs. The street is broken up concrete that played out to mud and puddles. Tough to ride!

Pedicab Pandomania

Finally out of town and onto a flat road and good paving. We met a young guy, Leandro, from Brazil cycling toward us. He’s been on the road for almost a year and plans to get to Ushuiai then jump off to Europe and the world. He’ll be cycling for 3 years, sounds familiar.

The Cuzco to Puno train came whistling by and the Engineer honked out, “Shave and a Haircut, 6 bits”. A small Pueblo, a Mercado, a cookie and cola break. Sitting in the warm sun we dreamed of hot beaches as we nibbled and sipped.

Puno/Cuzco Express

The wind was beginning to blow, in our direction. Cat had also bought ham and cheese, we rode on then stopped at a small adobe house and again sat in the sun leaning against the leeward side. A young girl cycled up and stood staring. We asked if it was her home, “Si”. She accepted our offer of jamon y queso, ham and cheese then stood nibbling and staring. We decided that she may never have tasted ham and cheese, before?

Cow Plow

Downpour

It’s all little ups and downs into Pucara and good timing. As we pushed the bikes into the Hostal the skies opened up and poured down rain. Another cold building, no heat for the room and a suicide shower. No TV either, Cat crawled under the covers after showering. She was right, the electric heat only got the water to a tepid state. I was shivering by the time I toweled down and crawled under the covers with her.

Down, hoping for a fire in the fireplace, we couldn’t find anyone. The room is lined with clay statues on little shelves. I took photos of several favorites. Then, we started making noise hoping to arouse the staff. A young guy and girl appeared and began trying to start a fire. They knew nothing about fires. He tried to start it by putting a plastic bottle on top the wood and lighting it. So, we had a stinking little blaze for just a few minutes then it was start over time. I took control and put the cardboard and paper they had under the wood. Then it took a lot of blowing to get it going.

Once we had a roaring fire we set off up the street looking for wine. Visits to all 3 of the tiny markets left us with only one choice, a sweet red. Then, as we were buying a woman ran up with good news. “Tienamos vino blanco”, we have white wine. Excited, we followed her into the little shop where she lifted a 10 liter plastic container and said, “Vino Blanco”. Cat recoiled quickly and said, “No gracious”. The woman insisted that she taste it, which only confirmed her first reaction. The crowd in the little shop laughed as she wrinkled her nose after the taste. We bought the Vino Tinto Dulce.

The fire felt great, the steaks were tough, the rice and fries cold and the vino tinto, as sweet as dessert wine. The price was higher than we’ve paid, anywhere but then, they have the only game in town. And, we’re lucky to have a roof over our heads. Though the rain has stopped it’s getting colder by the minute. We finished eating then lingered near the fire until we’d burned the last of the wood. Then it was a race up the cold stairway, a quick brush of teeth and under the covers. And what covers, there are 4 horse blankets on the bed. So heavy that they’re almost uncomfortable. The sheets are too small and won’t tuck in. They ended up around our necks.

It felt like we lay awake most of the night but we must have slept, some?

February 17, 2005
Pucara to Ayaviri
32 Kilometers

Rain, rain, go away. Awoke to cold and drizzle again. Down at breakfast, we met a new guy, same girl. We asked for eggs, bread and coffee the guy nodded yes and disappeared. Cat asked the girl, “When”? She said, “Maybe 10 minutes”. Cat jumped back at her, “No, now”! It was now ½ hour since we came in and they have basically ignored us. It looks like they’re preparing a lunch, maybe for a bus they expect? Finally, blended papaya juice, 1 egg each and a basket of cold hard bread. The coffee was Nescafe packets. We asked and they did find 2 more eggs.

It was 9:00 as we loaded the bikes under the stairway, where they were stored, and were soon out the door. It was sprinkling but the sun began fighting its way through the clouds. The road it’s self was great, good surface and flat even a marked cycling path along the edge. We were in Ayaviri at 11:30 AM.

The clouds are winning the battle with the sun. We cycled across a bridge and up a long slow hill, through winding streets and at last, to the Plaza. There, across from the church, was Hotel Lumosa with 3 stars shining at us from the sign. The room is a 3rd story walkup but its clean. Cat asked and they offered a space heater for 3 Soles, about $1.00. We took that deal. Oh yes, we do have TV, however, only 3 Spanish language stations. Yes, they do have hot water but not until 5:00 PM. Well, it is warm and dry.

After storing the bikes in the lobby, behind a cabinet, we walked to a restaurant across the Plaza. Seated at the back of the place, we ordered soup and it was great. I had a cup of Coca Tea. All for 8 Soles or about $2.50 US.

As we ate a huge storm began brewing. Soon it was dark as night and the rain came in buckets. Wind blown sheets of rain. We chose to try to outwait it at the Internet Shop inside the same building. After our hour of reading and writing we had to give it up and make a dash across the nearly flooded Plaza.

The rain dwindled, Cat went back to Internet and did some essentials shopping. I pulled the computer out and worked on journal pages. After asking around, we found that our favorite Restaurant was the only Restaurant in town. So, dinner there but upstairs, hoping that it would be warmer. The meat was tough but the potatoes and salad were great. Well what can we expect at $2.25 for two big plates of food.

The rain stopped, it actually warmed a bit. We strolled through the Plaza and back to our now warm room. The vendors were out in force, each with the same assortment as their neighbor. How can they possibly make a living?

February 18, 2005
Ayaviri to Santa Rosa
43 Kilometers
3985 meters, 13,071 feet

Last night we asked Elizabeth if we could have breakfast served in our room and she arranged it. This morning Rufino forgot it. When we called down he said he’d have it ready by 8:00 AM. After packing, carrying the bags down and loading the bikes we decided to skip the warmth of our room and just eat in the mezzanine dining area. It was cold there but the food was good. Elizabeth came out of her nearby room as we asked for milk for our coffee. Rufino said that they had none but she went back into her room and brought some, her own. What a nice girl.

They were both there to see us off. It was 9:00 and sunny. We back tracked based on info from Elizabeth. Across the bridge and up a hill then around a round about at the road into town. We had done the loop for naught. The road surface was great and once we got beyond the first couple of Ks it flattened out and we flew. Even the weather seemed to cooperate. We pulled into Santa Rosa at high noon.

The Pueblo is above the Camino and a slight uphill pull to get in. The Policia told us that there were only 2 Alojamientos. We’d seen them and hoped for another. One of the 2 had a little better exterior appeal, we chose it. The couple that greeted us, Giellermo and Juana, were sorting Alpaca wool. Cat chose the downstairs room. It has 2 beds but is large enough to allow the bikes inside.

As we started toward the gate a couple of cyclists came up the street toward us. Niklaus is from Switzerland, Wim from Belgium. After talking in the middle of the street we decided to have lunch together. An old man wondered up and asked for money. I wanted his picture so paid him 1 Sol. He stood and watched us with great curiosity then shuffled off.

After leaning all the bikes at the nearby Restaurant we enjoyed food and shared common stories. Niklaus started his journey in Anchorage, Alaska. I have cycled most of his route and we had lots of common tales about bears and Alaskans. Wim wanted to start in Alaska but couldn’t get enough time off from his job. He began in Canada around Lake Louise. The two of them were on similar courses and crossed paths in Mexico. They ride about the same daily distance and got along so formed a team. They are headed for Ushuaia. They are riding about twice the daily distance that we are. Awe youth, a wonderful gift that we all take for granted until it’s gone away. They’ve both had headaches from the altitude but they only got to the 3,500 to 4,300 meter range a week or so ago. They are going into Bolivia then across to Chile, lots of thin air ahead for them. After a photo session they rode on and we rolled back to our room.

Wim & Niklaus

Our room is very sparely furnished and cold. There is no shower, no warm water, only a squatter toilet across the courtyard. Cat got the shivers so we broke out the sleeping bags and she crawled into hers, under the 3 heavy blankets on the bed. Then she had to do something that’s really tough for her, just lay there.

At 6:00 we donned our ski masks and gloves, all our shirts and pants then walked to dinner. A local place with local food and a local beer. Meat smothered in onions and surrounded by fries, delicious. A family, Angel, Roxana and daughter Angela, came in and sat next to us. It was great fun trying to communicate. Roxana is a teacher, they wanted to know how much money she’d make in the States. We sort of skirted the issue, too hard to explain cost of living.

We were back in the room and under the covers by 8:45. We could see our breath with each exhale.

February 19, 2005
Santa Rosa to Sicuani
68 Kilometers
Up and Over 4335 Meters
(That’s 14,220 Feet)

Easy to get up early, still cold. Trips to the outhouse, brushed teeth at the laundry sink. Off to breakfast, the place where we had lunch with Niklaus and Wim has told us they open at 7:30 AM. Shuttered and barred se we went around the corner and up to the place we dined in last night. It to was closed. Back to a pretty bad looking place where they serve darned good but greasy food. Egg sandwiches, Nescafe and fresh milk.

It was 8:30 by the time we were ready to push off. Knocking and hollering, we couldn’t raise a soul. Cat slipped the 10 Soles through a broken window and onto the kitchen counter. We’ve both been anxious about today’s ride. It’s only 335 meters, a little over 1,000 feet. However, we fear that it will be a switchback monster.

Over the BIG HUMP

The weather began to clear, the sun shone through and we found it a slow but steady ride. As we passed a group of students they told us the summit was only 2 Ks further along. We were sure that they were wrong. They weren’t, we’d already come 30 kilometers. The first sign, the big green highway sign, says 4338 Meters. I set the camera but the photo isn’t very good. Onward to the true summit, the one with the hoard of souvenir peddlers, the little sign reads 4335. A couple of buses had just dumped a gaggle of tourists into the fray. One German guy came galloping toward us. He asked about our trip then said, “I want to cycle like this but my wife says no. I will cycle like this”. He enlisted a friend to shoot the picture of us at this sign. He did a great job, even got a couple of local girls in it.

Gasping Puffer Belly

An unfriendly wind began to whip around us. We mounted and rode down, into the eye of a storm. Rain, hail, and wind. We jumped into our rain gear and rode on. A little Café with dirt floor looked warmer and dryer so we stopped. As we leaned the bikes the gal inside motioned for us to bring them in. They dominated the tiny place.

Soaked and cold, Cat began to shiver again. They had soup, we ordered. A guy that the others called “Tio” (Uncle) asked Cat for money. She refused and he got a little surly, he’d been drinking. Once we were seated and souped everyone became friendly. Even Uncle wanted to shake our hands and wish us “Suerte”, good luck.

A little girl with interesting hat and shawl with a giant pin caught my eye. She flirted around then asked for money. They say “Platatito”, little silver. Wanting to get her picture I offered her a Sol. She smiled big and posed. Then they all wanted pictures and Platatito. No mas dinero but I did take photos and they loved looking at them.

The rain let up, we moved on, down through a verdant valley. Sun shone and accentuated the green fields. Our rain cloths dried as the winds of decent whistled in our ears.

Sicuani is not easy to get into. It’s off the Camino and into little hills. Asking, we finally ended up walking up the last one. The Plaza is plain, the Hotel that Wim and Niklaus recommended was less than plain. They had a room for us to store the bikes and did help us carry our bags. The first room they took us to had a TV. Cat talked with them, found that they only have 2 local channels and asked for a room with out TV. A slight reduction of cost yet for me, discomfort. I was on the edge of diarrhea and felt the urge was about to win the race while they dawdled and negotiated.

Whoosh, I made it. Awe, but no hot water until 5:00 PM. So, we walked to a nearby Internet Shop and connected with the world.

Après shower we walked back to the Plaza, found the Italian Restaurant Niklaus had recommended and went up for dinner. ON the second floor, it overlooks the Plaza. Another recommendation, I had the Lasagna, Cat opted for Pizza. Both were great.

Kids on Parade

Again, no TV so it was early to bed.

Sunday, February 20, 2005
Sicuani to Urcos
94 Kilometers

The Hotel Staff told us that there was no Restaurant serving “American Breakfast”. They had a young guy lead us around the corner to a Panaderia. The bakery only had old dry cakes. The coffee is that thick concentrated cold stuff. You add hot water and milk. This coffee had a funny taste, the water was not very hot and the milk was evaporated. The cakes were hard, good for dipping. All in all, not a very nourishing meal.

Off at 9:00, into sunshine. The main street connects with the highway, we didn’t have to backtrack. It’s a mostly downhill run on good pavement. Cat’s shifter finally gave out. It’s been through dirt, mud, snow and ice. We put it on in mid Africa. It must have at least 10,000 kilometers on it. (6,200 miles.) In retrospect, we should have stopped and replaced it right then and there. I tried to nurse it back to health. Then set it to run in a higher gear. So, she has some power but looses it on the down hills. It made for a difficult day, for her.

The road remained down or flat most of the day. As we approached Urcos we were greeted by a very long steep down, across the bridge over Rio Urabamba and the Railroad tracks then a climb. A very tough, long steep push, up and into town. As we pushed and stared up at the surrounding mountains we began to talk of taking the train. You know, for the experience and of course missing the steep played a part, too.

Several people along the street recommended Hostal Amigo. The main street in front of the Plaza is lined with Chicken and Chip places. At a market/restaurant combo a woman again confirmed Amigo as we bought a bottle of wine. Tired, we need it’s relaxing quality. She made us promise that we’d come back for dinner.

It’s Market Day in Urcos and the Amigo is another push, through the busy Plaza. Leaning the bikes out front was a chore. The sidewalk is steep. The Manager came out and invited Cat to take a look. She came back out shaking her head. There’s another Hostal just up the street. She walked up and came right back. “It’s worse and one of the dogs there bit me, the Manager didn’t even try to stop it”?

Our next chore, figuring out where to stash the bikes. The Manager offered us a small single room for 5 Soles, (about $1.67) we took the deal. So the bikes are safe but now, we learned that there is no warm water. The toilet is across the courtyard, another down the stairs and across trip in the middle of the night. The good news, the sheets are clean.

Dinner upstairs with a view of the Plaza. Buses come and go, small business people chase after them then settle back into their little stalls and wait for another.

In bed by 9:00 PM.

Urcos to Cuzco
49 Kilometers
That Dirty RAT!

The nice couple invited us back for breakfast last night. Up early, we went down to the bike barn and found the back bag on my bike had been tampered with. At first we thought it had been burned then it looked like maybe acid had eaten at it. Then, I saw the little shreds of plastic around the wheel. This is the bag that we keep food in. There was none in it but it may have smelled like food? A Rat, a dirty Rat has chewed a hole in the bag, in fact, 2 holes. Awe well, we folded the holes over as best we could, hoping that we could keep rain out if it does rain then went to breakfast.

The nice couple waited on us, cooked eggs for us then wished us well. They put a couple of sandwiches together just in case we get stuck without food. It was 10:00 AM by the time we started the long push up and out. Oh, the train idea, it faded when they told us that the train doesn’t even slow down as it passes through Urcos these days. After the first steep the climb was a little more gradual then became ups and downs.

Lunch, we pulled into a Service Station about midway to Cuzco and had a bowl of soup. Strange but we are now faced with a climb into Cuzco. It’s about 250 meters, or 825 feet higher than Urcos. Most of the climb came late in the day. Back to pushing, we were also fighting traffic. Blaring horns, taxis coming close as they hurry tourists to their appointed destinations. Then a down hill swoop and there it was, the Plaza de Armas Cuzco. What a sight. The size and scope of it’s beauty had us stop at the corner and stand in awe. We haven’t seen anything like this since Cordoba, Argentina.

Stopping for a photo, a young couple stopped us and asked where we were going. Melissa and Greg from San Francisco were as excited about our arrival as we. I got a photo of them then they shot one of us with the Cathedral in the background.

Cuzco Plaza

Hotel shopping was a chore. The one we had first chosen, Hotel Inca, had tiny rooms. After several attempts, some that had rooms but no place for bikes and some that were fully booked we happened upon a place on the corner of the Plaza. At first they wanted us to put the bikes in a basement room that is open to the public. Then the Bellman led me to a place on the 4th floor. A tiny door about 4 feet off the floor. I showed him that even if we could lift the heavy bikes and bags up they wouldn’t fit through the door. They had a room, they had an elevator and after a little negotiating, they allowed us to keep the bikes in the room. It was $65.00 US but that seems to be the going rate.

I did the ups and downs in the elevator. It was a tight squeeze. We almost had to climb over the bikes to get to the bathroom. But, good news, we have a bathroom. Oh, as we rolled along the sidewalk it began to pour rain. We were in, just in time. We’ve already decided that we must move tomorrow.

Dinner up the street at an Italian Restaurant. Alex, the waiter had seen us when we passed, came out and pointed to the Plaza Hotel. We promised that we’d be back. He and another guy acted silly, almost goofy as they took our order and delivered Pizza. A Peruvian music group came in and played flutes and guitars. They played some Beatle music. Another couple seated nearby are from England. He dislikes the Beatles. We’ve heard the song Oh Ba Dee, Oh Ba Da and liked the way it sounded. He says that’s his least favorite song. I got my 2 cents worth in by saying that their music is everywhere in the world. He retorted “Yes, you can’t escape it”.

They do have CNN, we got the first few minutes of Larry King but couldn’t keep our eyes open. We’re really ready for a few days off the bikes.

February 22, 2005
Finding a New Home
Bikes to Carlos

The mediocre included breakfast was the straw that broke these camels backs. Our first and foremost duty this morning is to find a new Hotel. The girl at the desk was very understanding and suggested Hotel Casa Andina, across the Plaza and around the corner. It was love at first sight. They had a couple of rooms to show but none with a real window. When we asked they took us to one that wasn’t made up. It has a window, we really liked it but, no desk. No problem, they brought up a table. We had a new home.

Schlepping across the Plaza, we just re-loaded the bikes and pushed. Our room is a 3 story walk-up. That meant several trips with the bags. They did have a great young guy, Marcos, who helped. He also gave us a map and pointed out a bicycle shop and the Tourist Info Center. A long walk up to the Bicycle Shop only to find that it was closed. We tried to call the number on the door from a pay phone across the street. Couldn’t connect so we asked the shop keeper and he indicated that the Bici Man would be back in an hour.

The Big Bucks Decision

A taxi ride to the Hotel Monastery, they are the sister of Hotel Sanctuario at Machu Picchu. Cat isn’t convinced that it will be a good investment. The nice girl booked our room and charged it to our credit card. Cat said, “Wait till Charlie sees this one”. (Charlie does our bill paying back home.) Yes it’s expensive but how many times in one life will you wake up at Machu Picchu? We tried to find out about taking the bikes inside for pictures but the Hotel has nothing to do with the Park. They did suggest that we talk with INC, Instituto de National Cultura.

Back to the bike shop and we met Carlos. Small world, he’s the guy that Wim and Niklaus had recommended. He worked on their bikes. So, we walked back to Hotel Andina, pulled the bikes out of the kitchen and rode them back to his shop. They’ll stay with him tonight.

Back in the room, we ate left over Pizza, I went to the computer and Cat got our smelly bike clothing together and headed for the laundry. Bored, she walked all over Cuzco. Took in all the sights and is ready to be my tour guide. She even found a place she liked for dinner.

We walked back to the Restaurant only to find that it was fully booked this evening. There were young Asian people slumped on the couches and at tables. They must have just flown in and are Jet Lagged. Back toward the Andina, we went to the Buffet next to the Hotel. The smorgasbord was huge, too much food. We overindulged as a tour bus unloaded more tired looking people. They just hit their seats when the lights dimmed and an Incan Show began. All in a language we didn’t understand but the costumes and sounds were interesting.

Inca Show

Larry King interviewed Dana Reeves, widow of Christopher (Superman) Reeves. A sad remembrance of his life and loss. She is a strong person.

February 23, 2005
Clean Bikes

Hotel Andina has the best breakfast we’ve had since La Paz. Fresh fruit, eggs and bacon, great orange juice and the topper, French Toast with real maple syrup. The only downside is what they call “American Coffee”. It is so weak the milk overpowers it.

Cat took our remaining dirty cloths to the laundry while I worked on the journal pictures. Later we walked and watched as the Cuzco Taxi Drivers held a protest strike. Hundreds of the little Daewoo cars lined the street 5 wide, horns honking as they circles the Plaza. They’re protesting high gasoline prices and Government fixed rates. As we walked toward the Bike Shop a jogger passed. He was definitely a Gringo. He circled the Plaza and on the second time around I said hello and he asked, “Do you know what’s going on here”?

Taxi Huelga

David is here on vacation from Atlanta, Georgia. He’s staying in one of the nicer Hotels in town. As he jogged in place we talked about getting together for dinner. Decided to call him and meet at his Hotel for a drink. We want to see his place, a 5 Star.

Carlos had the bikes almost ready to go. He was tweaking the last wheel. He’s replaced brake pads, straightened the wheels and replaced a broken spoke. Also set Cat’s front shifter, replaced her front wheel bearings. As a bonus he cleaned the bikes and greased the chains. The bikes look and run like new.

Taxi to Hotel Liberatador and a little tour with David. It’s an old building full of upscale things and stuffy looking people. It made us glad that we’re where we are. The Andina suits us. Our idea of a drink at the bar faded, we asked the desk for a restaurant recommendation. He sent us to a place on the Plaza. One of the touristy places with a wonderful view of the Square at night. The food was just okay but the conversation, fun.

David works with CNN. His Hotel deal is based on trade offs and it’s almost free. He gets little spiffs like this from time to time. Traded travel stories then got off on a media tangent. His dream is to start a company that transfers video to digital. I told him about my 103 hours of VHSC form my first time around the world. We both got excited about the possibilities. He does work on Jonathon Mann’s show, Insight and told us that Jonathon’s an avid cyclist.

David and I had a lamb and steak combo plate, great. At chose veggies and rice, not so great. As we walked back I set the camera and got a pic of the 3 of us. A little girl that had been walking, trying to sell us some trinkets, somehow got into the picture. Parting, we promised to stay in touch and continue exploring ideas about how to use the videos. Nice guy.

The little girl continued to shadow us and chatter. She has a high pitched voice and speaks great English. Her Mom watched her work from across the street. Cat’s sweet tooth got her, she bought a Snickers Bar. I grabbed one for the little girl. Maybe she’ll get to eat it rather than turn it over to Mom? This really is a form of child abuse. It’s after 10:00 PM and she’s still out here hustling?

February 24, 2005
Dr. Percy, the INC and a Maybe

Another fabulous breakfast then a walk to the INC. The guy at the gate sent us around and up to see Dr. Percy. Into a room, a woman told us to take a seat, we sat and waited then finally got tired of sitting and asked for Dr. Percy. Oh, sorry, you’re in the wrong office. Next door, Dr. Percy looked busy. His disk looked as disheveled as mine always had. He listened then showed us the proper papers needed to get a bicycle into Machu Picchu. When I suggested that we fill them out now he said it would be easier to get them at Machu Picchu. Fernando is the guy to talk with there. Well, we have at least a shot at getting the bikes inside for a photo.

More work on the photos and journal. Cat did another walk around and found the plastic zipper bags we’ve used in the past. We’ll put the bags in them to carry to Machu Picchu. The bikes have to go on a separate train. We rode them to the station, banged on the door then the guard pointed to a platform in the back. Checked in, they looked vulnerable leaning on the wall. We did have a piece of paper, a receipt and the hope that they’ll get to Machu Picchu.

A roasted chicken in the room for lunch then we worked on cleaning the muddy bags and packed them into our matching plastic luggage. Dinner in another little restaurant near the Hotel. Pasta for Cat, Steak for Pat.

Pope John Paul has been re-admitted to the Hospital. That was the big news on CNN and Larry King’s show.

February 25, 2005
Down to MACHU PICCHU

Awe the Andina almost let us down. The wake up call we ordered for 6:00 AM never came. Fortunately, I was awake and shaving by 6:00. A quick breakfast where we met a couple from Australia, Bob and Linda. They too are headed for Machu Picchu. He works for Caterpillar Tractors in Lima, on a short-term contract. We offered them a ride in the van we have coming but they’d arranged for a car, yesterday.

Our new temporary bags filled with panniers were stacked by the Lobby door. The bikes leaned on the front desk when our ride arrived. Cat was right, the station we depart from is not the same as where we bought the tickets. It’s just a short ride then a difficult unload process. We hate to have the bikes or bags left unattended. Good news, the driver helped us get the bikes off the top and the bags out then he and I carried into the departure platform while Cat kept those left on the sidewalk safe from theft. Surprise, Anthony, the guy that helped us with the tickets yesterday was there. He grabbed Cat’s bike then he and I pushed both down the platform and off to the freight room. What a great guy, what a time to have the cameras packed away. He talked with the freight guys, made sure that they’d be careful with the shifters then got the paperwork so that we’d have a claim check in Machu Picchu.

Cat had found help and the bags were already aboard the passenger train. We were seated across from a Mother and daughter, Jane and Andrea. The husband/father, Alberto, was across the aisle. After a quiet beginning Jane disclosed that she’s from Texas. Both she and Andrea teach English in Buenos Aires so, we chatted or should we say chattered the entire 4 hours. Alberto does a daily Christian Radio Show. He has just completed the study of Law but hasn’t yet become a Lawyer.

The train begins by struggling uphill. Not like normal by circling round and round but by zigzagging up then back then up again. They pull up passed a switch, throw it then zig back and up again, over and over. Once in Agua Calientes, the little town at the base of the hill that had hidden Machu Picchu so well for over 400 years, we found the Porters for Hotel Sanctuario. They lugged our luggage on their backs, down the tracks to a waiting bus. One of them, Jamie, called the Hotel and a person, Maria Jose, told me that we should give Jamie the claim for the bikes and come on to the Hotel. The freight train will arrive an hour later. The railroad track runs smack through the heart of Pueblo Agua Calientes.

Rockin' Train

Our new Buenos Aires family are staying in A. C. They think that we can buy one ticket for 2 days and will walk up this afternoon. Once we saw the hill, the switchbacks and the steep stairs we knew that they had their work cut out for themselves. It’s only 8 Ks up but it takes the bus almost a half hour. Maria Jose was there, she and the wonderful staff got us checked in and the bags to the room. We freshened up then headed for the gate and the process of getting the bikes inside the park.

Severe Mountains

A Glitch and Catch 22 in Machu Picchu

The gate is just a few steps from the Hotel. The women there listened to our story then shook their heads and said, “No bikes in Park”. We explained about our meeting with Dr. Percy and his suggestion that we come here, meet with Fernando the Curator here and fill out the paperwork. They stood, staring and letting our poor Spanish sink in then the manager said, “Dr. Fernando is in Cuzco, you must go to Cuzco to get his permission”. That one caught us by surprise, we argued, told our story again, slower this time but it had no affect. She just shook her head and walked away reconfirming with each step that we must go to Cuzco, Dr. Fernando was in Cuzco. It’s hard to explain the amount of frustration, almost anger that welled up at that moment. Cat convinced me that yelling wouldn’t work so we went back to the Sanctuario.

Maria Jose listened then told us that she might be able to help. She asked us to have lunch while she made a couple of calls. The included buffet was everything that Tom and Colet had told us it would be. Fantastic array of salad, main courses and a huge table of desserts. It was easy to overindulge but at these prices, why not.

A little rest and rinse off to wake up then we headed back to the gate. On the way out Maria Jose confirmed that Dr. Fernando was in Cuzco today and that her request was denied, too. She did say that if all else fails they have a spot in the garden where you can see the ruins, we can shoot pictures there.

A Walk Back in Time, A Walk With the Incas

The ticket seller denied a tow day pass, too? So, we paid the $20 each and went for a walk back in time. The first thing we noted as we rounded the corner and dropped into the site was that it would be difficult if not impossible to get the bikes in, anywhere that would be a good picture. Too many steps and steep hills. The Pueblo Machu Picchu is built on an almost vertical hillside. That and the jungle overgrowth explain why it was lost for those 400 years.

Machu Picchu

At first glance it’s just another stack of rocks and you know, we’ve seen plenty of those. From the Vikings who left small stacks in Greenland to the Romans who left large stacks all over Europe, even those of the Great Zimbabwe in Africa. The difference is that they are usually reproduced from the rubble that remains after centuries of plunder and decay. These rocks were stacked by Incan hands. These rocks and pathways represent a feeling of everyday life in a long ago, far away place. Machu Picchu is 70% original, from original plan to actual placement. Somehow that enhanced our feeling of being there. Not reverence in our case but reality, almost experiencing everyday life and the feeling of walking with ancients. When you tread on these stones that were familiar to people as long as 2000 years ago you feel life as it was. Daily life as they went about their daily business.

I was short of breath and laboring upward as a young boy almost ran past. I wondered how may times this scene might have played out over the centuries? Did the young Inca boy passing an aging warrior wonder why he wasn’t running? Why he’d slowed his once brisk pace?

The sun was shining brightly. We took advantage by shooting lots of pictures, not knowing whether we’d be afforded the same tomorrow. This place begs to be photographed. There are so many pictures of this place. None of them meant so much to me as being here and taking our own does. Maybe it’s the compact village nestled in the huge mountain setting? This place is Bigger Than Life.

Machu Picchu Panorama

Stepping through an Incan doorway, again like stepping back in time, I asked a guy to take our picture. Then, Lam and Eriza, a couple from Hong Kong, took the wonderful picture of us with MP in the background. I asked them to do, “You Must Be Crazy” in Chinese. At first they declined because they worried that they might be insulting us. That was good for a laugh once we got the point of our Languages of The World across to them.

"You Must Be Crazy," Chinese

After more than 3 hours we gave it up and headed back to our Sanctuario. Jane, Andrea and Alberto were there, at the gate. They’d just gotten the news, no ticket is good for today and tomorrow. They had decided to forgo today, the walk up had drained them. As we stood and talked a guy, a Guide, Armando, began pitching us. They spoke together in Spanish then we decided to share Armando, tomorrow and scheduled an appointment for 7:00 AM.

The bikes came riding up in a bus as we exited the Park. The Porters had a ball, riding them in the driveway. Cat is complaining of being bitten by mosquitoes. We can’t see them and they don’t seem to like the taste of me? There are some tiny black bugs that sort of stick to our sweaty skin?

The rally good news, all meals are included in our one high priced package. Dinner was fantastic. Throwing caution to the wind we decided to give Alpaca another try. Their Alpaca Fillet is as tender, juicy and tasty as meat can get. It’s proceeded by a starter and salad then followed by dessert. All in all one of the best meals we’ve ever. Once again, rate has its privileges. Two sisters, Mercedes and Marsha, seated nearby began a conversation. Small world, they’re from California. Mercedes is an Attorney living and practicing in Manhattan Beach. Marsha lives in Scottsdale, Arizona near our adopted Mom, Celeste. A nice conversation and a nice way to end a wonderful day.

February 26, 2005
MACHU PICCHU to Agua Calientes
8 Kilometers

Up at the strike of 6:00, just ahead of the wake up call. Breakfast was a hurried affair full of pancakes and maple syrup. We’re getting used to this Royal Treatment. The buses came and went but none had our Buenos Aires Family on board. At 7:10 Armando showed up and urged us to come with him. As we walked toward the gate Jane came out and waved. They’d been here for almost a half hour, waiting for us.

Another beautiful sunny day and more of the same feelings of wonder. The crowd of tourists is minimal at this hour. Armando is a very good guide. He takes time to explain small details as well as stories as large and sweeping as the panorama. By the end of our 2 hours together we had a much clearer picture of the people and culture that once lived in this extraordinary place. After Armando hurried off to find his next appointment we walked with Jane, Andrea and Alberto to the top of the hill. Alberto seemed full of energy and as he strode ahead Jane mentioned something about having to give him shots everyday. Because my Dad took daily injections I assumed that he was diabetic. No, he has Cancer. It started in his Prostate but is now in his bones. Traditional therapy has failed so they’ve turned to a new drug from Honduras. She feels that he looks better and has a lot more energy since starting the treatment. He does have a spring in his step as he climbs to the heights of Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu Plumbing

Machu Picchu Tour

Condor Over Machu

Another meeting on the mount with Bob and Linda as well as Mercedes and Marsha. They went all the way up to a place called “The Drawbridge”, on a cliff clinging trail. We chose to stop climbing.

There is a cemetery and flat, sculptured sacrificial stone. A nearby guide told his clients that they only sacrificed animals but we’ve have read otherwise. The cemetery holds the bodies of 500 people, most of them women, who were buried just before the demise of Machu Picchu. Jane had heard that most had Venereal Disease. Armando confirmed it and said that they had fled the invading Spaniards and taken sanctuary here until they died in the mid 1500s, the last inhabitants of Machu Picchu. Armando told us that it was the Spanish who, while raping and pillaging, spread the scourge of Syphilis. He also told us that the Inca people were tall but their ancestors, his family included, were short due to having been enslaved and underfed by the Spaniards for several hundred years. Later we would hear that Syphilis came from here in Peru and spread to Europe. (We’ll leave it up to you to verify these assertions and let us know.)

Hugs and kisses all around for and from Alberto, Jane and Andrea. What a fine family they are. They also have a Son but he couldn’t come along, he’s just found a new job and had to work.

As promised, Maria Jose had the Porters help us drag the b