Bikes in Cocoons, Adventure on Boats

Have you ever wanted to see The Mighty Amazon River? Ever wondered what life is like there? In this segment of our journal we get to Lima, meet with friends then fly to Iquitos, Peru and the head waters of the Amazon. Cajun music in Iquitos? A Cajun from Crowley, Louisiana? Meet an ExPAt who first came to South America in 1957 ON A MOTORCYCLE! He’s carved out a wonderful Tour Company from this wilderness and operates a 104 year old boat, up and down the Amazon. Meet modern day Natives of the Amazona and witness a step back in time. The Bora Natives dress and dance as in the olden days. (Caution there are bare breasts showing, now as there were then.) Meet our Aussie Pal Peter, Michael and Jeannie from Ventura County, a boat load of Mid-Westerners and some wonderful new Brazilian friends. Meet Grippa and enjoy his outstanding ART! Oh yes, hear about the “Rumble in the Jungle” when Pat gets into it with Jungle Jim. Let’s not forget the Piranha, those little fish with the BIG teeth. All this and MORE, here for your reading and viewing pleasure.

Galapagos to The Amazon
May 10, 2005
Off The Bikes Yet, ON the Move, Again!
A Fractured Trip to Lima

An early breakfast then the staff arranged for transportation to the Airport in the Hotel Shuttle. They got the bikes in the back and we stacked our three big bags on the seats. As we drove through the streets a crowd surged out, in front of a Church. Lester had told us of a famous local Soccer player that was killed in a car crash Sunday. Apparently he dropped his wife at her parent’s home and was driving to see his Mother when he lost control of the car. Our driver thinks that this is his funeral. There are so many people that we were locked into the overflow crowd for about 5 minutes.

No Buses to Lima?

Though they don’t usually stop at the Bus Terminal, our friendly driver got us around and very close to the door. He helped unload then accepted a small tip, wished us well and drove away. We struggled getting the bags onto the curb and then to the door of the Bus Company. The clerk was busy but when he finished he said, “No bus today”? Struggling to understand, because we’d already purchased tickets, he got the point across. There is a Paro, a strike against the government and the strikers have blocked both roads our of here, north and south. He thinks it’ll last 3 days but is unsure.

Rather than sit here for another 3 days we decided to get to the airport and try to catch a flight to Lima. After lugging the bikes and bags back outside I flagged a taxi. The driver was pretty resourceful, we got the bikes into his trunk and the bags in the rear seat. It’s not too far to the Airport so Cat and I crammed into the front with him. Although he remained straight faced we think he enjoyed rubbing Cat’s leg each time he shifted gears.

A Flight to Lima

At the Airport door we were accosted by a couple of guys with carts. Annoying, the sign says “do not pay for cart”. Yet the guys wouldn’t allow us use of them. They demanded that we pay them 2 Soles each. Tired of arguing, we gave in just as a guy that spoke English told us that these guys work here and only for tips. Silly, why not pay them enough that they can survive without tips? Well maybe because some people don’t need a cart?

There are 2 flights to Lima this afternoon. However one is coming from Madrid, Spain and is 4 hours late, at this time. The other will depart at 4:40 PM. We can’t even buy a ticket for another hour. When the office finally opened the staff were friendly. They ticketed us then weighed our bags. After considerable discussion they told us that we were over weight but they would not charge. We really appreciated and thanked them, profusely. Now the tough part for Cat, a 4 ½ hour wait and we all know how Cat hates to wait..

No Room in the Inn, Again!

Using the Internet service in a Café, we got bad news from Casa Andina. Once again, there is no room in the Inn. They are so busy and our request may have languished on someone’s desk as we’d sent it to the business center. A panic e-mail to friends, Joan and Dr. Jorge led to a reservation at Hotel San Antonio Abad. The e-mails flew and after straightening out the fact that we would arrive today, Paul, the Manager, said that he’d pick us up at the Airport. Another good deal for tiring World Travelers.

Suspicions about the funeral were confirmed during our wait. The TV screen was full of weeping mourners for the Soccer player, Otilino Tenorio, whose funeral we’d driven through earlier..

The flight was smooth, the plane looked almost new. We were seated in an Exit Row thus plenty of leg room. They even served a sandwich and best of all, they poured wine for us during the 1 ½ hour flight. Then, to top it off, Paul was there to meet us. He drives a LandRover with plenty of room for our excessive bags and the bikes. He worked his way through the darkening streets of Lima and up to the door of San Antonio Abad. The Hotel isn’t as fresh as Andina but it surely will do in a pinch. And, Paul is a treasure.

Dinner just around the corner, Trattoria Don Vito. A wonderful way to end a fractured day. As we toasted our success we thought about where we might be if we were on the bus. Right now, 8:30 PM, we’d just have completed 10 hours. That sounds tough then, add another 10 hours and we’d be getting into Lima tomorrow morning. So, the flight cost 4 times more than a bus but tomorrow, when we arise, we’ll feel great. No telling how we’d feel after 20 hours on a bus. So we’ve justified the cost, a good nights sleep is worth a lot!

Our meal was superb. Cat had Salmon, I Osso Bucco. That and a nice bottle of wine and we were in heaven until they brought the check. Cat caught a 9 Sole ($3.00) charge and asked. They charge for the little plate of olives, dip and bread. She was pretty upset. I wrote it off to experience but she couldn’t? Then, when I tipped the waiter she admitted, she was angry. Cat doesn’t get angry often but when she does, she’s angry. It was a quiet walk back to San Antonio Abad.

May 11, 2005
Bad News at DHL, Good News at the End of the Day

Breakfast was coffee and bread. We could have ordered eggs but decided to start our diet today. The toughest part of life off the bikes is slowing down the consumption of calories. Internet is included so we checked messages, read and answered the log jam.

Paul (pronounced Pa-ule) came in and decided to help us with our DHL problem. He made calls to them, then to the Aduana. After spending a frustrating hour he suggested that we take the Hotel Car and Driver out there to see if we can straighten our the mess. They charge $8.00 per hour for car and driver. Jaime, the driver is a nice guy but not of much help. He only speaks a little English and our Spanish is proving to be less than affective.

Finding the DHL Office was no small feat. Then, after another long and frustrating attempt at discussion I asked for copies of the paperwork to take to the Aduana. The bad news, they charged us $20.00 for the 6 copies. Jaime drove to the Aduana just in time to see the gates slam shut, they 1 ½ hours for lunch. So, we drove up the street and found a place, not a very nice place, to have a bite of food. Jaime speaks so little English that conversation is tough.

Back to the Aduana, they were nice enough and did make it clear that there is no import tax on educational items. The problem is that they can’t release the package without a letter from Bob, witnessed and notarized. The trip was a total waste of time and at the cost of $53.00. The books only cost $49.00 and w spent $97.00 having them shipped. A very irritating learning experience. DHL has actually been confrontational rather than helpful?

An e-mail to Bob brought a curt reply, he is busy and heading for the mine tomorrow. We don’t really blame him, he doesn’t actually know us or what the package contains.

Yes, There is Room In the Inn

Another problem, the Hotel San Antonio Abad is booked tomorrow. So, we went shopping for a room this afternoon. First stop, Casa Andina. Thinking that they must be booked we were just going to ask for their help. It was like old home week. Marite called our manager friend, Diego, he found a room though it’s only available for 2 days unless they have a cancellation. Then he called another place and booked a room there, just n case.

That and dinner were the best of today. Mexican food in a sort of fast food place. They did let us bring a bottle of wine. We love that, it cuts the cost way down and we get a wine that we like.

Back at Hotel San Antonio Abad by 7:30 PM. A little English language TV, the CNN news then SLEEP.
May 12, 2005
Moving Back Home

We did partake of the eggs this morning, there goes the diet. Packed and ready to go, we caught a Taxi to Casa Andina. The staff was busy checking people out. The room wasn’t ready yet. After supervising stacking of the bags and bikes we walked to the nearby Travel Office to check on schedule and cost for flights to Iquitos. A very inexpensive flight, $75 US each. We didn’t book as we’re not sure when we’ll get our problems with expected packages completed. We’re beginning to plan on a May 19th or 20th departure.

Back to Andina and our new room. Not as nice as our previous but very nice, quiet and cheerfully decorated. There’s a Kodak Store nearby so we dropped our disposable camera off to have the pics developed then walked to Wong Supermarket for wine and happy hour goodies. We lunched in our new room.

Diego volunteered to accompany me on the quest for a computer. Sure that we’d be able to find a laptop with English language keyboard, he directed the Taxi to several big department stores. Our findings, the prices are 30% more than the same machine in the US. And, there are no English language keyboards available, anywhere. Diego even called the Sony Center on his cell phone, no deal. Cat rode to the big shopping area with us then dropped off in her own quest. She would like to find a pair of Cargo Pants, the kind with zip off legs, to take to the Amazon. We’ll need long legs for any jungle walks, just to ward off the mosquitoes. She struck out, too.

A Lightly Attended But Very Happy, Happy Hour

We began trying to plan a Happy Hour and invite several friends living here in Lima. Tonight’s the night. All too many of our friends are out of town or tied up tonight. Victor, the Kayaker/Cyclist we met at Ancon Beach and his wife, Pilar, were the first to show up. What an interesting couple. He rides with a group called “The Bad Boys” on an annual 7-day grind. Paul from San Antonio came then Joan and her friend Mary stopped in after choir practice. Joan has done so much for us, we’re glad she could come by. The staff of Andina ate a little of our food but wouldn’t drink while in the Hotel. For us, it was a great time with new friends. As it turns out, it’s too late to go out so we ate the left over pizza for dinner.

A bad food day but a great friend’s day.
Friday, May 13, 2005
A Trip to the Dentist

Another wonderful Andina Breakfast including the French Toast. Then, off to the Dentist at 9:00 AM. Jorge Jr recommended them and made the appointment for us. It’s a husband and wife partnership. W drew the wife, she did a wonderful and pain free job of check and clean. An area of concern, I have material impacted down in my gums at one of my rear teeth. She suggested digging it out and injected Novocain. I didn’t feel a thing even after the Novocain wore off.

Next stop, the US Embassy. Hoping for help with our package problem and to check on our missing Social Security Checks, we got neither. The lead guy, Charlie, was less than helpful. We decided that he’s been doing the job for too many years. He listened then said, “There’s nothing we can do”. I asked about a contact at the Aduana but he insisted that they have little contact with them. Then, as I continued to question he turned and said, “We can’t help you”.

After filling out the US Citizens Registration form we handed it to a young guy we’d spoken with earlier. He asked if Charlie had been helpful, we were honest. He then suggested that we get in touch with the Tourist Policia. He didn’t understand why Charlie hadn’t at least suggested at least that? As for the Social Security, the gal told us that the computer is down and asked us to come back later. Pretty much with the exception of the young guy’s advice, another futile day.

Lunch at Norky’s then we picked up the Sports Camera pictures. Only a couple of fairly good ones that may make the web site. I had some fun with the staff at Andina. We wanted a picture of the 3 who weren’t in our group photo when we set off for the Galapagos. After a posed shot by the fireplace they went back to work, I walked behind the desk to use the telephone and pretended like I was working there. Good for a real laugh. What nice people/kids they are. An afternoon at the Cyber Café then a quite evening at home with our Chinese food. A movie then news and snooze.

May 14, 2005
A Day With Doctors

The last breakfast, the last French Toast. Oh and did we enjoy. We’re off to the Doctors this morning. Bags packed and racked downstairs then off to the Clinic. Cat has been having trouble hearing, again. We assume its wax buildup and, we want to have our blemishes checked. The sun in altitude and now along the coast is really tough on the skin.

A Rock In The Ear?

Paperwork then sit and wait, just like at home. First stop, the ear Doctor. He checked then flushed Cat’s ears. She had a big buildup of dust from Ruta Cuarenta. Then my turn, I felt it was more a checkup than cleansing but the Doctor had a surprise for us. He clicked his lips and tried to explain in Spanish with a smattering of English. When he said, “Piedra” we couldn’t believe we heard properly? Yes, there’s a stone in my right ear. Doctor had to get a special tool from his kit. A sort of lasso of wire on the end of a metal tube. Once he had it attached to the rock he began to twist and pull. Wincing, I stood the pain until he yanked and pulled it loose. I yelped out in pain and anger. The pain brought tears to my eyes. The anger was directed toward the bus or truck that had sent the little stone flying in my direction. My body’s reaction to the foreign object was to become infected. Doctor made it clear that there is danger in being infected in the ear, near the brain. He prescribed an anti-biotic and ear drops. He required that we visit the Pharmacy here then return so that he can describe how the drops are to be used.

Doctor Jerk!

The Pharmacy needed time to put the order together so we headed for the Dermatologist. Another wait in the hallway but good people watching. Then in and I disrobed first. He looked me up and down, I pointed out a scaly spot on my nose and he made some comment about my nose? He sees no problems, just harmless blotches. I rushed back to the Pharmacy while he examined The Cat. Let me preface the next story by telling you that there is a female nurse in attendance. He indicated that Cat should take off her t-shirt. Then we did the same glance around and touch a couple of spots. At that point he did sign language to let Cat know that he wanted her to take her bra off. As she dropped it he lost his professional composure and said, “Aye que bonito”! Yes, this beyond middle aged geek with dark dyed hair actually said, “Aye, how pretty”! Back home that would have meant a lawsuit to many. Here, he and the nurse both laughed as Cat blushed and covered her body with her shirt. The Ear Doctor demonstrated the drops and again urged me to take the full course of antibiotics.

Back to Andina, they were checking in the big group that has left us on the move, again. Not too busy to stop and bid us adieu, they all shook our hands, wished us well and urged us to come back, again. Taxi to Hotel, La Paz and a drag of bags to the elevator, up to floor 4 then down the hallway. The room next to us is packed with guys on computers. They all acknowledged us which actually made us a little nervous. What can they be doing here?

After a short walk to the nearby main street we found a sandwich shop for lunch. Then, the camping store just down the street. They had almost everything we need to complete our ability to camp, if necessary. A very cool set of pots and pans, a Swiss army knife, a compass and best of all, sleeping sheet bags. Since we will be in warm from now until California we loved these. Blue sheets sewn like sleeping bags with a zipper on the side.

Unfortunately we weren’t able to reach Bob. Retrieving the DHL package is looking less and less possible. His last e-mail was to the point, he’s really busy and headed for the mine on Monday. We did try to find a Notary that works on Saturday. No luck there either.

A Switcheroooo?

A little happy hour glass of wine then off to dinner. Hungry for Pizza we walked until we found Restaurante San Francisco. Well, the sign said Pizza but the menu didn’t. The only other customer turns out to be the owners Sister. She was sipping a beer, in fact they both were. No, no Pizza, just typical foods. Okay, we can adjust, the Sis is fun to talk with. We ordered a bottle of dry white wine. The Brother lurched across the room and returned with a bottle of terrible looking wine. In fact anything but dry, the label clearly said, “Semi Sweet”! We asked if he had Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc? Yes, he disappeared again for quite a while them came back with an open bottle. The label did say Sauvignon but Cat notice the foil on the neck of the bottle was red? Geez, the guy must think we’re really STUPID? He poured to show us that it was white wine. We stood up, said good night to the Sister and walked!

A Super Senior and her Daughter

A renewed quest for food led us to a Hotel, usually our least favorite. However, they actually had a nice bottle of wine and Cabrito. (Young Goat) The top of the evening goes to Edith, the Mom and Barb, the daughter. They’re from Montana/Oregon and as we talked we found that we have several commonalities. When we told him that Sister Joan and Bro-in-Law Bill live in Jefferson, Oregon they chuckled and told us that Edith’s Uncle and cousin owned the Auto Repair Shop in Jefferson for years. Then, when they heard that I was born in Bonners Ferry, Idaho they really laughed. One of their family members used to own the Chevy Garage in my old home town. Really nice gals, sorry we didn’t carry the camera and they’re out of here at 6:00 AM tomorrow, headed to Machu Picchu then down the Amazon. You’ve gotta love it, 2 gals traveling alone AND, Edith is in her mid 70s.

Sunday, May 15, 2005
A Day in Lima
Dinner with Victor and Pilar

The breakfast here is okay, it ain’t Casa Andina but, it’s okay. Cat set off immediately on a quest for cargo pants. Another keyboard day for me. The computer here is okay, so I’ve begun typing again. The difficulty is that it’s tucked under the stairwell. Tight and close.

Cat opened a dialog with the guys in the room next to us. They’re from Chile, doing some kind of computer advertising? Spammin’ we think! They are nice guys and know a lot about computers. They all agree, there won’t be an English language keyboard to be found, here. One of them did e-mail his buddy and they thought there might be a used machine for sale. Turns out its Spanish keyboard, too.

Cat’s quest for pantalones was without success. She did swing by Bob’s house and found the packages at the Gate Guard House as he’s promised. We now have the spare parts sent by LandRider so we’re now one step closer to having necessities of for the road. Todd, the guy in charge of Producing the Infomercials for LandRider sent us a copy of the most recent presentation. The Hotel La Paz has a meeting room with TV and VCR. We sat and watched and liked what we saw. Some of it made us laugh, some brought poignant memories. All in all, it’s well done and we’re proud of our part in it.

Victor picked us up at 7:00 PM. He and Pilar live in her parent’s home with her 80 year old Mom. We, the 5 of us, had dinner and wine. A very nice evening, life is so much easier when conversations are 2 way.

They have a wonderful bedroom/sitting room with VCR and TV. Victor has ridden a tough 7 day mountain bike ride for the past few years. There are about 40 guys in the club, they call themselves “The Bad Boys”. Fun to watch but more fun to watch Victor pointing out the high points and the parts where he appears in the video. At one point he swims across a river. Pilar said that the first time she saw it she asked where he got the white swim suit. Pretty funny, he was buck naked and his tan looked like a swim suit. We watched the LandRider video again with them. Victor was most interested in how the shifter works.

Hugs and cheek kisses for Pilar then Victor drove us back to the La Paz. Another parting of such sweet sorrow. How fortunate that Jose Daniel introduced us that day in Ancon. A long day, a late night, we went directly to bed.

Letter From Malawi

what an adventure! but before I get carried away, how are you fox & were are you right now? am fine and am at school doing mechanical engineering, my country is fine as well as we enter the cold weather.Now i can claim i've been to Bolivia, ask me why i'll say people there are poor but warm & friendly.the 14,288 feet Altiplano is some plateau weth climbing.sorry, i'll write more in my next mail i have to hand in my assignment. Always remember that when you ride, you are riding with Malawi.

We received this e-mail today. After copying it because we loved it so much, we let our friend’s name get away. We can only hope that he’ll see it and send again.

May 16, 2005
A Day With the Tourist Policia and Aduana

A fresh fruit, croissant and coffee start and we met Christina, Sister of the groom whose wedding will be held here on Saturday. Another guy from the States, Robert, is from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. He’s here doing computer consulting work with a local University.

Back under the stairs and a check on the progress of our packages coming to us via FedEx. Good news, they’re both in Peru. Miguel, our friend at the front desk, called FedEx, they will deliver tomorrow but there is a $27.00 tax fee. He tried to explain that it was only clothing to replace Cat’s that were lost in the robbery. To no avail, FedEx has no control over the tax.

The other is at Serpost, the office where the Aduana will decide how much tax we’ll have to pay for the new bags. Yes, Ortlieb USA has sent replacement bags at their cost to replace those lost to the banditos. Very kind of them! However, it appears that the Aduana may tag us for 40% tax. And, they can dispute the value and add more tax if they feel it’s needed?

Taking the advice of the young guy at the Embassy, we decided to find the Policia Tourist before going the Serpost. Our taxi driver had to ask several times. The office isn’t in an easy to find neighborhood. We almost gave it up as time was fleeting. Oh how glad we are now that we didn’t.

Jose, Knows How to Make Things Happen!

A girl tried to talk with us but her English and our Spanish were so limited that there was no communication. Then, she called a guy, Jose, and he did know English. He also knew how to make tings happen. After listening to our sad story he called the Aduana. There was a bit of shouting involved in the several calls. He was proud of his English and loved introducing us to the Chief.

Jose took pains in showing us where the Serpost was located and making sure that we had the correct address. It’s near the Airport, of course. We’re getting to know that road well. Each time we go out we remember places and things we saw when we cycled this road. The taxi driver confidently dropped us and took our money as he pointed toward the door. He was wrong, of course. The lady inside indicated that we must go to the Aduana. She made it sound like a long distance from here so we hailed another taxi. He went around the corner and down a small street about a block. There it was, ah the difficulty in deciphering two languages.

The place was jammed with others waiting for packages. We took #5 and waited our turn. After a half hour they called our number. At the window they had us watch as they opened the box. Pulling each bag out they checked inside them then asked if they were for bicycles. Our “Si”, must have been loud and clear. They told us to sit and wait. We waited and waited then went to a window where people were being called to pay. The lady ignored us then finally acknowledged us and waived a paper indicating we were up next. The couple ahead of us had to fork over a real wad of money. It looked to us like she was moving here from Japan and bringing her household along. So, we ere ready to whip out the wallet as she called us over then she handed us our paperwork without a word about money. Thank you Jose! We stood behind the couple who’d just paid as they retrieved her tings then the guy taped our box back up and handed it to us. Whew!

Outside, in the backstreet there were no taxis. A guy nearby with an old clunker car yelled out, “Taxi”? We questioned whether he really was a taxi. Another guy there had him show us some paperwork? We asked the price, it was fair, we took the deal.

He took a few back streets unfamiliar to us but finally pulled into Miraflores. As we passed the “Govindra” the Hari Krishna Restaurant Cat had seen we had him stop. Hungry, she has wanted to try the place. It’s vegetarian, we chose soup to cut the chill in the air and veggie torts to fill the void. Pretty good. I think I like the fact that the Hari Krishna people are now working for money rather than standing at Airports begging.

Another surprise, when we walked into the Hotel Miguel handed us the other package. It was a day early. I asked if he’s paid the $27.00 tax? He smiled and said, “They charge no tax”. Thank you again Jose!

A little Internet for Cat, more journal for me then for dinner we revisited La Tranquera, the Argentinean Restaurant. We missed the company of friends from Seattle and San Diego. The food was good but not great like we remembered.

A little TV, the news, much of it from Iraq, not much of it good.
May 17, 2005
Pondering the Computer Problem

Robert hurried his breakfast as he chat with us, his ride was waiting. The wedding party continues to assemble. Today we met the groom, Ken, from Hawaii. A US Army Doctor, he’s done his time in Iraq and now will be stationed in Hawaii for the next 2 years. Like his sister Christina, he’s a great young person. His bride is from here in Peru.

Sometime, during the night, I had an idea. Why pay the Aduana $1,000 or more in import Tax? Why not offer to fly Dave and Lori down and they bring the computer with them? We shot off an e-mail with the details about the computer we want, a couple of things for the camera and the idea. Dave sent an e-mail right back and said that he’d just ordered the things fro Sony. He didn’t mention the smuggling idea. Well, not really smuggling, you are allowed to carry a personal computer into Peru. We called them from the room but only got their answering machine. So, we left a compelling message.

I was destined to spend more time at the computer, trying to do some more journal catch up. It is difficult and for some reason the machine has started acting up, not allowing me to save to floppy disc?

Another e-mail from Lori. She is immersed in business. A new listing, in her neighborhood and, a real boost from her company. She is in the top 10 producers and has been invited to Las Vegas with the owners. In fact they’re leaving tomorrow. She asked if we could wait 12 days but that is pretty much out of the question. He have been sitting way too long already. Dave remains sort of interested but he too is pressed to finish the work on their house. They just told us today that he has to have surgery on his wrist, soon.

Another idea from our Tourist Police buddy, Jose. Have the sender of the books, Charlie, change the recipient to us. He’s sure that DHL will have to accept an order from Charlie. So, we e-mailed the idea to him.

We had lunch in, an on the bed picnic. Then, at the time of dinner we sat and talked about places and food. We’re getting real tired of the cold, the fog and the food of Lima. It really is time for a change. So, we trekked back to Wong’s Market and picked up Spinach Torte and lasagna. Then we combined those with the left over Chinese food and it was dinner in, too.

A movie, the news and goodnight.
May 18, 2005
Disgruntled DHL Customers

Breakfast and another hurried conversation with Robert. His wife is here with him but we’ve yet to see her. He mentioned that she has a rare disease and has to be extremely careful about her food. Diarrhea cold put her right into the hospital.

No news from Dave and Lori. Good news from Charlie, DHL has faxed an order changing the recipient from Bob to us. So, right after breakfast we headed back to the Airport area and the now all too familiar route to the DHL Office. The waiting room is full of disgruntled DHL customers. Each of us seems to have a horror story of some sort? Ours continued as the plot unfolded. At first they said that it was impossible, then it was maybe? Finally after a long wait they told us that we could have the package after paying a $50.00 fee for the name change. Of course I went ballistic!

Ready to Roll Down The River

I demanded an audience with the Boss. They sent a woman to handle my ire. Patricia is the Customer Service Manager and the first sensible person we’ve met here. She hasn’t been involved with “our case” so she listened then went back behind the glass wall. After a wait that began to feel like another stalling tactic? However, when she reappeared she told us that she was getting our package released but asked us to wait, again. Another half hour and she brought the package to us. Another surprise, she said that there would be no charge for the name change. Then, a final surprise. I asked for our papers back and she said that they had to keep them? I told her that we’d paid $20.00 for the copies. That seemed to astound Patricia. Another wait then when she returned she had a $20.00 bill in he hand. What a jewel she turns out to be. Between Patricia and Jose, we now have all our things, we’re ready to roll down the river!

By now its 6:00 PM and dark outside. One of our disgruntled friends told us that we’d have to walk to the Pan Pacifico to find a taxi. That was not a good sounding idea to us. A guy picking up some friends out front called a taxi on his Cell Phone. You see, both Peru and the world are full of good people.

The driver headed toward Hotel La Paz but we pulled him over as we passed Wong Super Market. Yes, another meal in. This time, meat, fried rice and a couple of meat pies. That and left over lasagna and we had a real meal.

More movies, a little news then to bed.
May 19, 2005
Father of The Groom
The South American Explorers Club

Conrad, the Father of the Groom was at breakfast and interested in talking. What a nice guy, works with Ford Motor Company in Detroit. A very proud family man. He introduced us to Steve, uncle of the groom from Texas. As we chatted Conrad asked if we’d been to the South American Explorers Club? Actually, we’ve not even heard of it. He saw it in his Lonely Planet. We check our South America on a Shoe String but it wasn’t there. As we ate Conrad disappeared then came back with his LPGB, open to a page with the info.

It sounded so great that we set off immediately. The taxi dropped us in front of a wonderful looking old house with a small sign on the gate. The Club is a membership driven non-profit. They create a home atmosphere, here in Lima, in Cuzco and Quito, Ecuador. They’re under construction in Buenos Aires, too. If you’re coming to South America this could be the best $50.00 you’ll ever spend. The gals there, Megan from Michigan and the Manager, Tanilee from California greeted us and allowed us to peruse maps and books. They were really interested in our Odyssey. We exchanged website addresses and promised to link, each to the other. We agree that our site is a valuable info source for their members. I also promised to send pictures and a story for their SAExplorers News Letter. Check their site at www.SAExplorers.org they have it all if you’re headed south!

The girls suggested a store nearby that would have some of the things we need to replace items lost. We found it and they were right. Sleeping sacks, (Sheets sewn like bags with a zipper up the side. They’ll work great now that we’re headed into the warmer climate,) A Swiss Army Knife, cooking pots and pans, even a compass. Then just across the street we went into a Music Store seeking another Peruvian Flute CD. Raul, the clerk suggested a couple of progressive disks. We told him of our journey and how we like to have traditional music in our collection. He became interested as we told him about our loss and the beauty of our journey. There’s a poster of Queen, the Rock Group that was formed by Freddy Mercury. Raul likes Queens’s music and was astounded to here that he was from Africa. He was excited to hear that he can take a look at our site and see Mercury’s, the restaurant named for Freddy, in Zanzibar. (He will later send an e-mail to us that we used to open the pages of our Lima to Galapagos journal.)

 We had empanadas in, for lunch then headed for the Fer Tur Peru Travel around the corner. Yolanda, the girl who helped us, was completely cute and knew what to do. We were booked and ticketed in no time. The flight is scheduled for 1:00 PM, tomorrow and boy are we ready.

Back at La Paz, I worked at the computer until it completely crashed. Then I went to the Cyber Café down the street to complete the text and add e-mails received from Raul and a guy from Malawi. Oh, I also copied a report from Zimbabwe. Remember the Plane full of mercenary soldiers from South Africa that were held when they landed in Harari? Later Margaret Thatcher’s son, Peter I think, was implicated in the plot? Well they were released or at least, sent back to South Africa. They’re still in trouble but not in danger of being executed.

Yolanda called and told Cat that our flight has been moved up to 11:15 AM tomorrow. Okay with us, we’re really ready to go.

We spent part of the afternoon searching for a copy of the Mountain Biking book written by our friend, Omar Zarzar. You remember Omar, he’s the Guide that helped us cycle out of Lima. Victor gave us the address of the publisher but when I found it, I found only Attorneys. The Publisher has moved on without a forwarding address? The Attorneys were drawn in to our story because one is a skier but used to race bicycles.

Cat spent the afternoon catching up on her hand written journal pages.

There’s a place around the corner that has been recommended, Pardo’s. A chain, they specialize in Rotisserie Chicken. So, chicken and fries and lots of tourists. A table full of Brits but they were into their own conversations. Maybe we were just lazy?

May 20, 2005
Lima to Iquitos

A complete re-pack of the bags before breakfast. They only allow 15 kilos each or about 33 pounds for each of us. Our 3 bags and the bikes will weigh about 200 pounds or about 90 kilos so we need to carry on some of the weight. I’ll take the red bag with the tent and camping things, Cat will carry the yellow bag with our toiletries and some other heavy things. We’ll still be overweight but every little bit helps when they’re charging $1.75 per kilo for excess.

Conrad was already down fro breakfast. He told us that he got up early just to see us off and get a picture. He is an avid amateur photographer. We thanked him for the tip about the South American Explorers Club. He may try to get there before they leave for Cuzco, after the wedding. Breakfast, the 3 of us then we hailed a taxi, got the bags inside then tied the bikes on the roof. They looked pretty precarious, Conrad got our pic looking worried about the arrangement then Miguel took one of the 3 of us. Funny how we hadn’t even met Conrad 2 days ago yet now we feel a connection and that old Parting Sorrow. What a nice guy, and terrific kids, too.

Off loaded the bags and bikes onto the dolly of a Sky Cap and he took us directly to the check-in window. We were next up when suddenly a bus unloaded and there were a hundred of more people in line behind us. Most were from the States, a Church Group from Colorado. The counter people weighed us in and took several side glances at our carry-ons. Yes, there would be an extra charge. We had to follow an employee to a counter upstairs and present the paper with the excess on it. The charge, $13.00. Wow, with the other bags it might have ballooned up to $70.00 or more. Oh yes, then they tag you for and extra $5.00 per person, Airport Fee, as you wind your way to the departure gate.

A couple we’d seen at the Hotel stopped to say hello as we waited. They were staying at Hotel La Paz and we recognized each other. They’re from Mexico, She, Queta, speaks English, he doesn’t so we only got her name. The group of young people are from Littleton, Colorado. Yes, several are students at Columbine High School. In fact a couple of them were in the Cafeteria when the shooting started. They lead group sessions, teaching about tolerance and understanding.

The Airline, TANS, is operated by the Peruvian Air Force. We’ve heard varying accounts, tales ranging from terrible to great. The flight was packed, not an open seat by the time they finally got the doors closed. Take off, about ½ hour late but a smooth flight, muffins and juice on the way then, best f all, a very smooth landing.

Inside the Iquitos Airport, several of the Colorado kids lay in a group while waiting for their luggage. I call the picture a Colorado Dog Pile. Three of them, Sara, Doug and Andres were so interested in our trip that we stood and talked while our bags went round the carousel twice. What a group of terrific kids.

Bikes and bags made the flight fine. We got them onto 2 carts and pushed into the parking lot. The Hotel we’ve booked, The Dorado Plaza, sent a van. They threw the bikes and bags on top, we waved to the Colorado kids and we were off to Iquitos and the next leg of our Adventure.

The Dorado is located on Plaza de Armas, the main square in town. Easy walking to almost everything. The restaurant down made a pretty good hamburger for lunch. The rest of the afternoon was a walk around the area and an hour at the Internet Café.

Moto to Church

Muslims and Gays, The Greatest Threat?

Dinner just around the corner at a Pizza place. Ceiling fans stirred the warm humid air around but didn’t cool much. There were 3 young people seated next to us. They were speaking English so we said hello. Yes, they’re Missionaries. The couple seem to be in their early to mid 20s. The other was an outspoken and narrow minded. He expressed his dislike for Muslims. I asked how many Muslims he knew, none of course. Then he threw out the blockbuster, “Muslims aren’t the greatest threat to America, the Homosexuals are”!

That one I couldn’t resist, I shot back the Q word. “What’s the threat? Most Gay people I know live a quiet life and aren’t a threat? Oh, I get it, they can’t breed so the population will go into decline? He was slightly overwhelmed. We did a couple of minutes of discussion about God’s Children and whether they were created, too? He’s so young and so indoctrinated that nothing gets through. I told him and his friends the theory, “When you lock in on one thing, you lock out all other possibilities”. How can you judge if you know nothing about Muslims or Gays? I left the boy from Arkansas shaking his head with a parting shot. Using my best Southern Preacher voice I spouted, “Judge not lest ye be judged my friend. Judgment is mine, sayeth the Lord”. Then, I looked him in the eye and said, “You know what you need to learn my young friend”? He sort of shook his head then I stood in front of him and said, “You need to learn the big T word, TOLERANCE”!

Yikes, enough preaching for one night. The older, more experienced guy agreed that the world would be a better place if we were all more tolerant. He and his wife are here teaching at a Missionary School. She’s pregnant with their first baby. They seem pretty well centered but they need to work on their young friend.

The Satellite TV has system is broken and won’t be fixed until Monday? Darn that was one of the reasons we booked at this place.

May 21, 2005
Michael & Jeannie From Simi Valley, CA

The included breakfast is pretty good, once you ask beyond the sparse offering they set out. Yes, they will do eggs and bacon or sausage if asked. Look at us, remember when Cat was a vegetarian and I wouldn’t eat an egg or red meat. How things have changed.

A nice guy, Steve from Texas, struck up a conversation. He’s here with his Church, doing auditing, making sure the money they send is used properly. Nice guy who, in real life is a New York Life Insurance Agent. He knows his way around and offered to help us in any way he could.

A young couple walked in, Steve said “hello” and they answered in English. Sure that they were Missionaries, too we smiled and introduced ourselves. They say that 90 percent of foreign visitors and 90 percent of foreigners living in Iquitos are Missionaries. Bad guess on our part and unfortunately, a bit judgmental.

Michael and Jeannie have bought a home and are living in Buenos Aires, Argentina for a year. They’re from Southern California, he grew up in Simi Valley, a town in east Ventura County. We’re practically neighbors. They’ve just returned from a grueling 5 day rough out trip to Reserva National Pacaya-Samiria. It’ a huge unspoiled area. They had two guys and a boy with them as guides. They endured heat, mosquitoes and a 20 hour boat ride out. They’re so tired that they’re going to sleep today but we made a date for dinner at The Yellow Rose of Texas. Funny but we’ve been hearing about the place from people as far away as Lima and Guayaquil.

After another session at Internet we took a long hot walk to Explorama. They operate several Jungle Lodges, one with a Canopy Walk. That’s all we’re interested in but they only sell packages. The 4 night deal is $1,200. They also have a 2 night package for only $300 but the Canopy Walk is an extra $150 per person. YIKES, they must have more business than they can handle? The guy, Alex, was less than personable So, we’ll have to think about that one.

The Eiffel Tower in Iquitos?

There’s a building here, quite famous, called the Eiffel Iron Building. Worth noting because it was designed and manufactured in France by, yes, the one and only Eiffel. The same guy that designed and built the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Not as famous as the Tower, the locals say that it’s here by mistake. They say that it was intended for Quito, Ecuador. The packages were miss marked, or the shipping company made a mistake and it ended up here, in Iquitos.

After a hot dog and burrito for lunch we walked onward, to Amazon Tours, a company that operates a couple of excursion boats. The owner wasn’t in but the guy there, Guillermo, tempted us by telling how Paul, the owner, came from California on a motorcycle in 1957. We asked to meet him, he was out but will return on Monday. The big boat, built in 1896, was being repaired and wouldn’t leave this week, it only departs on Mondays. The normal price for a round trip is $750, Guillermo says he can book a one way for only $2.50, if they have room. We’ll be back!

I went back to Internet, Cat shopped for long pants. They’re beyond necessary, they’re required at most Lodges because of mosquitoes.

A Cajun in Iquitos?

Dinner at The Yellow Rose. What a wonderful time we had. Michael and Jeannie are just great to sit and talk with. She’s a children’s clothing designer, he started, like me, in the Grocery Business. He’s a jock and sales came naturally to him, he began by selling work out equipment. Then with a couple of partners he helped design a line of weight machines and Athletic Club furnishings. The Company grew and prospered, they sold it and are now enjoying the rewards they’ve earned. We really hit it off.

As we chatted Cajun music filled the place. Though Gerald was raised in Texas, he’s a Cajun, born in Crowley, Louisiana. Cat and I jumped up and did our best imitation of Jimmy and Carey, the dance instructors with our band, Acadiana. We spun around the room as Gerald, the owner, his wife Pamela and others of the staff yelped and clapped. Geez, we love to be a spectacle.

What a wonderful evening, what wonderful company. What great music!

Sunday, May 22, 2005
The Belen Market and a Canoe Around the Floating Village

Breakfast down then we watched the Flag Ceremony in the Plaza. Similar in a small sort of way to that of Cuzco. Michael and Jeannie went to the place next to The Yellow Rose because they have pancakes and maple syrup. We met them there then walked through the strange and incredible Belen Market. Good similar to any Super Market and other things found only here. Turtle meat, smelly dried fish, snake meat and skins, even an illegal Jaguar Pelt with head. The crowds were so thick it was oppressive at times. We kept a tight reign on our wallets.

		Flag Ceremony
National Anthem

Walking away from the market toward the River, we passed through the village on stilts. These homes, now high and dry, were only available by boat just a few weeks ago. Everyone is telling us that the river level is dropping daily as they enter the dry season. At the river we made a deal with a persistent young guy to tour the floating village in his canoe. Funny several guys were pushing and shouting out prices. The guy we chose was likable and competitively priced. After we made our deal one of the others tried to undercut the price. Disculpe, sorry, we already have a canoe.

The homes float on balsa wood logs. There are whole neighborhoods with stores, even Doctor’s Offices. Young kids ply the waters selling good to the occupants. The homes move up and down with the level of the river. They even have out houses attached. You can see them, a plastic curtain for privacy, in our pictures. A great afternoon and an enlightening visit to a unique place as well as the joy of just hanging around with Michael and Jeannie.

River View

Back at Hotel Dorado, we sat in the shade, near the pool, ate burgers and talked about our joint loves for life. We’re really going to miss them, they have to pack up and head for the Airport. Of course we have promised to get together, sometime, someplace.

Another trip to the Internet Café then a relaxing hour in our air conditioned room. Our decision to walk to the riverfront for dinner was thwarted by the huge crowds and lack of tables. We ended up at a brightly lit Burger Joint. They did have a Cabrito Stew, it was good and inexpensive. Fine food without ambiance. We were almost sorry that we didn’t go back to The Yellow Rose.

		Dancers

May 23, 2005
Malaria Monday

Yep, today we started our twice a week regimen of Chloraquine, the anti-malaria drug. We hate it but feel we’d better do it. There is malaria in some of the areas of the Amazon and we don’t want to take chances.

At breakfast we met a group of Nurses from Virginia. They’re here as volunteers with a non-profit called “Helping Hands”. They have more than 60 people lined up for surgeries but the Peruvian Government, the Aduana, is holding up their supplies and equipment. They’re inn the same Catch 22 that stifled Ron the Ophthalmologist’s group in Piura. It has to be maddening.

Gerald, who was Director of Tourism here in Iquitos, outlined the best Jungle Lodges, and which ones would deal on their prices. He recommended against Explorama for the very reason we have decided not to take the Canopy Walk. Beyond price, he says that the walk is now 20 years old and needs to be upgraded. We went to the offices of a couple then sat down with Clever of Heliconia Lodge and heard their deal. He’s a nice guy and seems like they work hard to insure a good experience. Decided to wait until after tomorrow since we may book the boat downriver tomorrow.

Back to The Yellow Rose for Dinner. Another Cajun dance or two, too. The Doctors and Nurses came in for a drink. They’re still in limbo.

Yellow Rose

Good fun and good meal.

May 24, 2005
A Visit to Pilpintuwasi, A Butterfly Farm

Yes, the MotoTaxi driver quoted 5 Soles but as Gerald had written, he took 3. Heading toward the little marina we saw the results of the Paro that started at 2:00 AM this morning. Gerald had warned us that the MotoTaxi Drivers were going to strike but he said that they don’t have official sanction so it won’t be too dramatic. He was slightly wrong, as we Motoed the driver had to make a quick trip down a side street. A crowd was marching up the main road, blocking traffic. We pulled into an alley, he went back to the street leaving us sitting in the sun. We could hear the march as it passed then he came back, fired up and we went back to the street. There were rocks strewn around, lots of broken glass and smoldering wood and garbage in the way. He had to swerve and drive over big logs to make the trip. In the end I paid him the 6 Soles he’d asked for. A brave guy, braving the wrath of his fellows.

The aluminum boats that Gerald had warned us of were aggressive, they offer their trip for 10 Soles. We persevered, made our way around to the public Water Taxi and did the Gerald recommended, 1 Sole each boa trip with the locals. The Water Taxi dropped us at the base of steep river bank. It was a hot walk through the village, down again toward the river then through a jungle trail. A young guy, Angel, greeted us and led us across a bridge and into the Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm.

He gave us a little introductory information then took us on his Guided Tour. The farm was started by an Austrian woman, Gudrun. She is teaching classes at the University today. Her husband, Robler, a Peruvian, did stop and say hello to us. It’s a project of love, of animals and nature. Their Mission Statement is, “Teaching the children adequately and awakening their interest in nature, we can help to respect and protect wild life…that’s our duty as responsible citizens”.

They have constructed a series of cages to control the breeding and safety for the butterflies. Angel took us through the process, step by step, from eggs to beautiful butterflies. The female lays eggs, each species on a specific leaf. The eggs hatch in just a few days into tiny caterpillars. Their only aim is to eat and grow. Depending on the species it take 2 to 10 weeks to reach final size. Then they all go through a phenomenal process. They find a place to attach then cover themselves in a silk pupa or chrysalis. Then amazingly, a chemical process takes place and it’s reconstructed into a completely different animal. The life span of this wondrous and beautiful feat of nature is only 1 to 2 weeks.

Larva

Just as Gerald promised, there’s more to this place than butterflies. As we walked we were shadowed by two Huacary Monkeys. They climbed in the trees and across the cages, showing off for us. Another even more exotic looking monkey, a red faced Huacary began following us, even challenging the others. Cat made friends with him but not after a few tenuous moments.

They also have a Jaguar, rescued from a village family and nursed back to health as well as a Tapir, anteater and some little relatives of the Capybara. All in all, a great tour for little money, just as Gerald had predicted.

Percussionist

An Artful Message

Back in town, we had lunch and decided to book the tour to Heliconia Lodge. Clever was there and made the reservations. We’ll leave tomorrow at 11:00 AM. There’s a painting in the Lobby of Hotel Victoria Regia that caught my eye. The color is extraordinary but the story is even more so. The Artist, Christine Moritz, made a visit to Heliconia in 1998 and was inspired to paint. If you look closely you can see hand prints around the Blue Earth. They are of Bora Indians form the area around Heliconia. The prints around the sun are those of Explorers, Teachers and Conservationists, concerned and protecting this fragile environment. Wonderful use of art to send a crucial message.

An American’s Motorcycle Diary

Having heard some of Paul’s story, we walked back to Amazon Tours, hoping to get to meet him. He left California on a Motorcycle in 1957 and spent 2 years exploring South America. The experience led to a career in travel then a strange quirk of fate, the opportunity to Chair a South American Travel Show, brought him back. The guy running the show was one of the friends he traveled with back in his Motorcycle days. With his focus here, it was an easy transition into the Boat Excursion Business. He owns 2 boats, the Rio Amazona, built in Scotland in 1896 and El Arca, a 50 year old riverboat.

Grippa’s In LA, He Can Bring a Computer

Paul is easy to get to know and it’s easy to see that he’s used to taking control. As we chatted we told he and Scott, his partner, that we couldn’t book for next Sunday until we knew that we would have our computer. We told them that Lori and Dave are sending it today and we hoped it would get here before next Saturday. Paul instantly asked, “Where is it now”? Probably in the process of delivery, Lori was going to get it to FedEx today. He grabbed his phone as he said, “Isn’t Grippa in LA”? Scott confirmed then Paul insisted that we call Lori, see if she’s sent yet. What a treat, we got on the telephone, Lori answered, we talked then when she said that she was just leaving to send the computer we made a snap decision, we had her send the package to the address of the place where the Artist, Francisco Grippa was staying while delivering paintings.

Wow, we don’t know these guys from Adam and we don’t know whether Grippa will agree to bring the computer. Based on a good gut feeling we put the plan into action. Paul did try to call Grippa but was only able to leave a message. What have we got to lose? Maybe an0other Computer? Keep the faith!

Then, the best, among Adventurers, Paul offered us a very good price for the down river excursion. If you’re thinking of exploring the Amazon take a look at this web-site, www.AmazonTours.net you’ll find a wonderful adventure as well as a trip back in time on one of the World’s Great Rivers!

Back at Hotel Dorado Plaza we took photos of Grippa’s work. Paul had told us that the paintings we have enjoyed in the lobby are typical Grippa. Even a newspaper article with his picture. Okay, now we feel as though we know him!

Our Helping Hands Friends have been told that they will receive their equipment tomorrow. They are heartened but not betting on it.

Dinner at El Carbon, Parrilla. A very good mixed grill and very inexpensive, too.

May 25, 2005
Heliconia Lodge

Up and at em’ early. Packing, breakfast then dragging the bags down, we’re making a move. The Hotel Victoria Regia is owned by the same family that has the Lodge. It’s not quite as nice as the Dorado but only slightly more than half the price. A little begging on our part and they agreed to pick us up first and drop the bikes and bags at the V. Regia.

I spent an hour rushing to copy pictures and get them on a CD. Most of our Memory Sticks are full. We’ll need them for the Jungle Experience. Cat ran up and down the street finally finding a can of Green Mosquito Repellent. The first bus came, the 21 Brits filed on board as I continued to work pictures next door. Then, the van for us and a couple from Switzerland, Claudia and Pius arrived. Cat was nervous, I was holding them and the boat. Nothing I could do, the pics were cooking and that takes time.

Nobody seemed too upset, we got to the boat just a little behind the Brits. They’re a kind of “stick together” group. Funny, too, the tour company has separated us from them. Our guide is Oscar, Clever will guide the Brits.

Our little group of 5 left after the Brits but arrived at Isla de Monos (Monkey Island) ahead of them. This Island is sort of stocked with several monkeys and birds. They serve some fresh local fruits and explain life here, on the river. A nice respite from the bouncing boat.

Trumpeter

Spider Monk on Board

As we boarded our boat the Spider Monkey that had been lounging on the porch took a running leap, careened off my back and took a seat near the stern. The guys tried to get it out with little result. It came to me, took a seat and clung to my arm. A young boy came aboard and chased it to the bow then it took a leap across water and landed on the dock. Then, as if to say goodbye, he stood up and watched us pull away.

Arriving at the Lodge at 12:45, we settled into our rooms then into the Café for lunch. Really funny, they even separated us from the Swiss couple? They served chicken, rice, beans, watermelon and bananas on a buffet. Not bad, just that we’ve had so much rice and beans in our lives.

They split the British group in two, half went fishing for piranha, the others and our little 5-some went for a jungle walk. After donning our long pants and boots we headed off down a trail into the thick jungle. (I wore my hiking boots, Cat rented Wellies, high rubber boots) Clever was guiding the Brits and Oscar took us along behind. Oscar was raised in the jungle and knows a lot about living and surviving here. His Father was a hunting guide so he was out in the bush as a young boy.

The best of it is seeing and learning about the plants and how locals use them to live. The worst, it was steamy hot, dripping rain and, the mosquitoes were having a field day. Cat says the only way to describe the 3 hours was, “Miserable”. There are few if any animals around, a footprint or two as evidence of their passing but no animals. Most of the afternoon was spent viewing vines, trees and stepping into or across mud. I even tried to swing from a vine like Tarzan but failed, my right arm has little strength due to the rotor cuff. Cat got blisters from her rubber boots. She says the best thing about the experience was the shower, back at the Lodge.

	Millipede

Good planning on our part, we brought 6 bottles of white wine, just in case. Dinner was pretty good, Amazon fish with, yea you guessed it, more beans and rice. Again, we were seated at a separate table but did strike up a conversation with Courtney and his wife, Vicky. They’re from London but Courtney was born and raised in Barbados. Surprise, there are 2 in the group from the States. Nancy is from New York and comes along because this is a hiking club. The other, Shannon, is from Arizona and is the guide for the group. They’ve been up to Cuzco and Machu Picchu and hiked the Inca Trail.

May 26, 2005
Pink & Gray Dolphin, Piranha,

We both have some pretty bad bug bites on our ankles. Learned that they aren’t mosquito, they’re Chiggers. I have only heard of them from people who’ve lived in the Southern States. They bite right through the pant legs and socks. Itchy and sore. Speaking of pants, we pulled the same muddy, sweaty pants, socks and boots on for today’s adventure.

As we walked to breakfast there was a stir among our fellow adventurers. A tarantula is crawling across one of the tables. Some are scared spitless, some are intrigued, and some want to touch it, even hold it. Pat & Cat passed on that one.

Breakfast then off on a speed boat to visit the fresh water dolphin. Yes, they come in pinks and grays but you can’t prove that by us. Oh sure, we saw them breach and breath but only a disturbance on the muddy river and the wound of their breath as they blew. I tried hard for a picture to no avail. They’re fast and private. They have little or no vision as the water is too muddy. They rely strictly on their sonar systems to get around.

003 Bird Nest

Our Piranha fishing expedition took us to some back water areas. Pablo pulled the boat up under trees for shade and we through in a line that he and Oscar had prepared for us. Both he and Pablo caught Piranha. They swish their fishing sticks to make the sound of a feeding frenzy then wait. Pius caught on and soon caught a small Piranha. Both he and I had several other bites but couldn’t get them into the boat. Kind of fun but we began to feel sorry for the fish. Yes, even the flesh eating Piranha have a place in this world, too.

Snakes, Sloths and Blow Guns

Back to the Lodge for lunch then off to Yanamono, a nearby village. You walk through the village as life is today before stepping back in time. One family has a couple of Boa Constrictors, a little girl a sloth, and a boy with a monkey add to the menagerie. Also a 3 toed sloth is hanging on a tree branch like decoration. So, there are animals but like most places we’ve visited, they’re in captivity.

Our step back was a step into the Tribal Community House. There are several locals selling hand made crafts. The Chief and several other men and women are dressed in traditional garb. He gives a blow gun demonstration then invites others to give it a try. Cat did her best but her aim was not like that of the chief. Courtney also gave it a shot with about the same affect. It started to rain, we donned our old Iguazu Falls ponchos.

Blow Gun

Yo Ho Ho and A Bottle of RUM

The next little adventure was too a local Rum Distillery. Oscar played the part of the horse as he and Clever demonstrated how the 200 year old machine is used to press the juice out of sugar cane. They place it in an old wooden canoe along with left over starter, like we do with sour dough. Then they distill in an old copper kettle. They also make Molasses in a large copper bowl with fire under. Interesting process.

 Crushin' Cane

Now the tasting, not exactly like a visit to a winery but interesting, too. They pass around glasses of different rums, from white to dark. Even one called 7 roots, said to be an aphrodisiac. We all sip from the same glass, hoping that everyone in the group is healthy or that the Rum kills all germs? Obviously popular with the locals, they sell the stuff for 1 Sole or about 33 cents for a liter. We’re hoping that the local men stay away from 7 Roots, seems to us that most local families have more than enough kids. Cat says the taste reminds her of Pisco. Remember, the distilled grapes of Ica, Peru?

Back and another hot shower. It’s tough to know how great it feels until you’ve been there and done that. After, Cat relaxed with a glass of wine and wrote in her journal.

With the permission Pius and Claudia we had the staff serve our dinner at the same table. We’ve gotten to know them, at least slightly. There is a language problem. He’s been traveling for 3 months, she joined him and they’ll spend a month together. After our meal several gathered in the bar. Oscar crooned, he has a very unique voice and is an accomplished guitarist. Quite enjoyable.

 

	Oscar Croons

Dispelling The Myth of the Bloodthirsty Piranha
As Told By Oscar

True to legend, a school of hungry Piranha can devour a large animal or, even one of us in just minutes. But they won’t. Locals swim with schools of them all the time.

The typical diet of Piranha is other fish but they don’t kill them, or any other animal, for that matter. Usually Morojaras, small Catfish, take bites off the tail of living fish. That slows them then they eat at their fins. When the fish is immobilized a larger Catfish will bite into the carcass. After the fish, animal or human dies, or stops struggling the Piranha move in for their feast.

Tomorrow the Brits, Nancy and Shannon leave at 6:00 AM. So we said our goodbyes. They’ll be on the airplane and headed toward London before we even get back to Iquitos. Shannon has another group waiting. He doesn’t usually do two back to back but “that’s show biz”.

May 27, 2005
Up a Creek in A Canoe then Back to Iquitos

After breakfast Oscar led the 4 of us down a path to another village. A nice looking school but the teachers of Peru are on Strike so all was quiet. He told us of the trees along the path and how locals use each of them. Nothing goes to waste here.

The homes are much more modern, some even have diesel generated electricity for a few hours each day. At the edge of the village is a small creek and waiting there for us was Pablo with 2 canoes. The trip was beautiful. They paddled and explained, we watched and enjoyed. Lots of local people fishing, several women washing cloths along the bank. Pablo lives here and knows all his neighbors. No Cayman, not even many birds but it was so quiet and peaceful that we were lulled into a jungle malaise.

	Canoe Cruise

Lunch at the Lodge then at our request, we showered and prepared to leave early. The new guests, Niki and Aaron from Utah and Mike from Colorado came in on the boat that will whisk us back to civilization. We had a few minutes after their orientation to chat. Niki and Aaron are here celebrating their 4th anniversary. Due to a screw up, they will only have today and tomor