Seeing the WORLD from a BICYCLE SEAT can be tough. Heat, hills, stiff sore legs and fatigue can make one wonder. Then, you see the other side of the mountain, you meet the next new friends, you experience Mother Nature in an up close, personal way. Seeing the WORLD from a BICYCLE SEAT definitely isn’t for everyone but it’s definitely for US.

So, sit back, relax and enjoy a ride up the neck of land that connects the Americas. Wander back and forth through 2 time zones, from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean. Take a ride down the Panama Canal. Meet other crazy cyclists and families in camper trucks traveling around the world. Get face to face with Sandinistas and Contras. Hear and see Pacha Mama breath steam and belch fire at one of her active volcanoes. Test the Real Estate Market and see why Gringos Galore are invading Central American Beaches. Just Go For It!

Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua & Honduras
August 9 to September 25, 2005

August 9, 2005
Lift Off From Colombia, Into Panama

The flight was almost bump free and included a sandwich and free glass of wine. The landing was smooth but in a curtain of pouring rain. The Immigration was merely a formality and finished in record time. The Taxi Van was expensive, the Airport is far from town. Our Hotel, The Country Inn that Lila booked, is also a ways from Panama City.

Memories of The Buddy Boy

The place looks and feels so familiar. I’ve mentioned a mentor, Bud Smith in these pages before. He was an entrepreneur’s entrepreneur. Bud built huge personal wealth and a part of his holdings were Hotels. As I recall, he had built and was operating 46 restaurants and 9 Hotels when I worked with him. Several were Country Inns. They all have the same furnishings and operate similarly. We talked about Bud, my days with his firm, MVS & Assoc., his family and other friends who worked with him in Ventura County.

Disappointed that we’re so far from other places, we went to the attached TGI Fridays for dinner. This too felt like home except for the freezing atmosphere. They’ve got the AC down to meat locker level. Cat really lived it up with Mexican food, I stuck with my Pasta diet.

A little CNN News and sleep.

August 10, 2005
Making Plans in Panama
Currency- US Dollar

Breakfast is included. It’s pretty simple but you can add eggs, bacon or ham for an additional $4.50. We settled for the fruit, scrambled eggs juice and coffee. The room is crowded. Sitting next to us is a family from the States. Jeff and Georgina live in Virginia. She’s from here in Panama, they met while he was in the Army, here. They’re with his Mom and Dad, Ben and Gerry from Arkansas. They went through the Canal yesterday and had a bad experience. The boat was late, the food cold and it ran out of fuel on the way back. They had to be transferred to another boat. The tour was to be finished at 3:00 PM, they finally got on shore at 6:30, after dark.

Booking the Boat for Nat

Geez, we’ve come a long way not to take the Panama Canal tour. And then too, there’s the need to take the ride for my adopted Father and first real teacher of Real Estate, Nat, who wanted to go and never got here during his living years. There must be more than one boat. Oh, we have Internet access here so we jumped onto the web and began the search. There have been a few Canal Tour operators but the number has dwindled. The tour that our breakfast friends took is booked right here at the Hotel. We found them then only one other, Panama Yacht Tours. They seem to have several boats going to lots of destinations. We called and talked to Jorge. He gave us his partner John’s cell phone number. He was anxious to book us and came right to the Hotel. We met in the Lobby and were booking when Gerry came in. She stopped and we told her we were going on a different ship. When John told her the name of our ship she laughed. It’s the same boat? Embarrassing, John had to admit, there’s only one boat operating now. He was shocked then sorry that Gerry and her family had had such a terrible time. Caught by surprise, he also suggested that he was concerned that the Skipper hadn’t told him about the problem. Even after another warning from Gerry, we booked. Hey, we’ve come far and, we owe it to Nat our Adopted Father to take the trip. It was a life dream of his that he missed when his life ended.

A walk down the Causeway for lunch. Wonderful Restaurant with a deck overlooking the bay and Panama City. Coincidence, we were seated next to Gerry, Ben, Georgina and Jeff. Nice folks. We promised to let them know how our Canal Cruise goes.

An Adventurous Portuguese Family

Walking back, the heat was scorching. Much of the shoreline is old abandoned housing. Later we learned that it had been US Army base housing. In the park area near the hotel we came upon a strange looking truck. A huge VW with a large camper attached. Mica, a photo journalist adventurer, and his family have been traveling on various trips for more than 10 years. This episode began more than a year ago. They’ve driven from Newfoundland, south to Florida then across the US to San Francisco. From there they pointed their monster south, through Mexico and most of Central America. They will continue down to Ushuaia then back up the east coast of South America to northern Brazil. Then, across the Atlantic to Dakar, Senegal and north to their home in Portugal.

His wife and kids are off shopping. We hope to meet them later. He reminds us of our Danish friend Helga who also travels in Toyota 4WD around the world.

Sore Throats, Coughing and Choking

Our afternoon is spent at the Doctor. The Hotel has suggested a Clinic that has some English speaking staff. A taxi ride into town and we met with Dr. Marcos. He studied at LSU, Louisiana State University. Of course we told him about our band, Acadiana. He said that he didn’t know much about Cajun Music but his Daughter-in-Law loves it. She’s a Cajun gal from near New Orleans. Dr. Marcos did a light checkup, blood pressure, pulse and cough while we waited for the results of throat cultures. Cat has had a pressure pain in her chest, probably just muscle strain from coughing but when we told Dr. Marcos about her heart attack he insisted on her having an EKG and meeting with a Cardiologist. He, Dr. Sergio, listened to Cat’s heart and read the EKG then offered this comment in his heavily accented English, “You’re stone cold perfect”. The culture shows infection so we’re gong on another round of Antibiotics and a cough medicine.

The Pharmacy just around the corner had all the drugs and a few other necessary items. As suggested by our taxi driver, there’s a fantastic wine store just around the corner. So, we’re loaded up on drugs and alcohol. They even had our old California house wine, Kendall Jackson. The price was prohibitive, we stuck with old Chilean favorites.

Dinner at TGIF, again but this time we requested outside seating, away from the freezing AC. A young guy that Cat had spoken with earlier sat with us. Brian is a Californian who works with a firm, Transit Sales International. They buy used school buses and sell them south of the border. He speaks Spanish, his wife is from Mexico. They live in Chula Vista. He’s here trying to drum up new business. She is in Nevada selling mobile homes. The company bought 100 used coaches, her market is ranches and farms. An innovative company. He’s really a nice young guy. Fun to talk about California. He invited us to stop and stay with them as we pass through Chula Vista next spring.

August 11, 2005
Errands

After another non-descript breakfast Cat headed for the Internet while I completed the pictures to mail to Wally. Cat got a box and we put together things to send home, too. Lunch at TGIF, this is getting to be a habit.

I spent the rest of the afternoon de-cocooning the bikes and getting them road ready. Part of the process is a greasy mess. They seem to be rideable, we’ll find out tomorrow. Cat did Internet duty, reading and answering.

Another TGIF evening. Had to sit in due to a pounding down rain storm. They did slow the flow of freezing air. Steak and Pasta, mmmm.

CNN and sleep

August 12, 2005
Testing The Bikes

After our less than memorable 2nd Breakfast we took the bikes out for a test ride. Off down the causeway to see marina where we’ll take the boat tomorrow. A nice flat 4 ks with the bay and skyline of Panama City on one side and the Pacific and entry to the Canal on the other. Scenic, boats and buildings, sun, clouds and hills. Oh let’s not forget the Bridge of the Americas, a truly impressive arch connecting both sides of the Canal. We sought the Portuguese family on the way back in. Their rig was there but they were not.

Aloha

A quick, in room, picnic then off with Adrian

Adrian, and a Tour of Panama City

We hired a driver, Adrian, to take us into Panama City. Nice guy, he took us first up and over the Bridge of the Americas just to spot the way we’ll cycle in a couple of days. Then, to the Post Office where we got the packages sent. He knew places where they sell maps and books. We were pretty excited to find a Lonely Planet Mexico. Bought and paid for, we jumped back into Adrian’s van and headed for a Supermarket. I opened the book and found that it is written in Spanish. Geez, didn’t even look. The store was very nice and refunded our Pesos.

He patiently waited while we stood I line at the Correo (Post Office) and mailed a package home, coins to our pal Randy, photos to WebMaster Wally and the broken Video Cam to Todd the Producer of the LandRider Infomercial. Try as we might, there just isn’t any store that has a camp stove in Panama City and Adrian knew them, all.

Captain Morgan and The Golden Alter

Next, he took us out to Casco Antigua, the original Spanish City. Founded in the early 1500s it seemed to be a target for the likes of Sir Francis Drake and Captain Morgan, Pirates operating under the English flag. One story he told was of how the Priests would paint the Gold Alter white when marauders were coming ashore. There was a slight language problem but we think the story he told went something like this; “When Captain Morgan raided and they had painted the Altar the Priest said that they had taken all the gold. Capt. Morgan wined and said, “I’ll bet into Heaven before you, Priest”! We think he meant that Morgan knew the white alter was actually gold.

Next stop or at least drive through was Ciudad Antigua. This area has developed then decayed over the past 200 years or so. Adrian says that many of the shabby looking buildings are completely rebuilt inside. The City has decided to keep the original exteriors. Last but surely not least, a stop at former President Noriega’s house. It’s in a terrible state of disrepair and sitting vacant. Adrian says that there is a court battle between the current Government and Mrs. Noriega about ownership. Of course Noriega is in the Big House and well cared fro by the US Government. All in all a fine afternoon with a fine guide and guy.

		Kuna Kids

Golden Altar

Another Big Truck, This One From Germany

Our short walk back to the Portuguese family’s truck was fruitless. No one there, however there’s another big rig similar to there’s across the parking lot. Klaus and Sonia are also photojournalist as well as a film company. (www.Outdoor-Production.com) They’re from Germany and are on a similar trip as Mica’s family. They’ve been touring South America for more than a year and are now headed back to the US. They had not met each other before pulling into this park parking lot. Their truck is a Mercedes. They built the camper portion and invited us in to check it out. Exquisite wood work and design. Compact but livable. Really a nice couple, they traded a normal life, quit their jobs at age 30 and have been traveling for more than 11 years.

Another evening on the TGIF Patio. Chicken for me and Salmon for the Cat. A couple at the neighboring table, Laura and Roger, were discussing what to do with their lives. He’s a Psychiatrist. They were analyzing their lives, wondering about wandering this wonderful world in a boat. We could only encourage. They’re here to visit their daughter who’s working at a nearby resort. A very fun and interesting evening for us.

August 13, 2005
A Trip Through The Panama Canal
In the Midst of Norte Americanos

Breakfast then I hustled over to say goodbye to Mica, his wife Sofia and kids, Eloi and Kia. They’ve rented a car, Mica will drive the truck to a boat on the Caribbean side while the family lives it up, for a night, in a Hotel. They are putting the truck on a boat to Colombia and will fly over to meet it later this week. What an adventurous family!

The Perfect 90 Year Old Machine

Somehow we got a mini-bus to Flamenco where we boarded a bus ride to Gamboa. On board the Pacific Queen which carries up to 275 passengers, we found a middle sized crowd of only 175. The ride through the Canal is at least as good as we thought it would be. Great fun to see a 90 year old machine, the lock system, still working as it was designed to do. They told us that it was the second concrete construction in the world. The walls of the canal portion are 65 feet thick, designed to last. The gates are so well balanced that they’ve never failed. At the Culebra Cut you float over the Continental Divide. Next, under another construction marvel, a double A-Span bridge. Strange story, it was built 2 years ago for more than $100,000,000 but has never been used. The roads that should connect to it have yet to be constructed. Budget problems?

		Nord Wave
Continental Divide

Interesting to watch the PanaMax ships slide through the locks aided by the electric mules. PanaMax? That’s the size or dimensions of most cargo or freighter ships in the world, today. They’re built to the maximum width and length allowed through the Panama Canal. The Queen was allowed into the Canal in a light passage, that is, not jammed in with a huge freighter. A good deal for us and our pictures. We followed a power boat, The Auzhela, from Seattle, Washington and a sail boat. We had a wide open view of the entire passage.

		Lock Lesson
Can You See It Now?
		Mira Flores

Locks and Bagels	Working Mule	Last Lock
		Lines Down

There were lots of Norte Americanos on board our Queen, too. Kevin and Rod are here with a group of surfing friends. Larry is an exercise freak, he runs, lifts weight and his body shows it. He’s a male nurse from Florida. Michel and her kids, Mason and Hakon from Solano Beach near San Diego. Cat went to University there and they talked about a favorite Mexican Restaurant, Fidel’s. All of these friends have been together on a Windjammer Cruise for the past 10 days. Lori and her son Jeffrey are from Burlingame, California. Oh, we can’t forget Marble Champion Krissy. She’s 18 and took second place in last years International competition. She’s headed to London next spring to win the entire thing this time. They’ve all been on a Great fun talking with them, all.

At the docking place we thought of Gerry and family and their trip from Hell. Ours was a wonderful experience. After a couple of attempts at hailing taxis we decided to walk from Flemenco Quay. We know the distance, 4 Ks. The sun is shining on high and it’s hot but then that’s going to be our daily routine on the bikes. However, as we trudged the clouds gathered and darkened. Lightening then great claps of thunder, we made it under the awning of Hotel Country Inn. Then it poured, so thick were the drops that we lost sight of both the Panama City skyline and the Pacific.

Another dinner at TGIF, inside the cold chamber. We asked and they did damper it down a bit. Steak and Pasta, we’re gonna miss this place.

A Mom and Daughter, Lisa and Alexandra, have been in and out of our lives since we got to The Country Inn. We even saw them this morning from the bus, holding up traffic as they asked directions. Tonight we ran into them in the hallway. They were wearing their jammys. They wanted to see the bikes. The most interesting thing to us, they’re here because Alexandra is studying Ballet. She is enrolled in a 2 week course here in Panama.

August 14, 2005 Back On The Bikes
Panama city to Sajalices
81 Kilometers

Our early breakfast was thwarted by the packing frenzy. It was after 9:00 AM by the time we got the bikes down, out on the driveway and ready to roll. Thanks to Adrian’s drive up onto the Bridge of the Americas, we knew the direction. As we rounded the ramp and pedaled hard up toward it a Policeman in a booth whistled and waved us over. He spoke only Spanish but seemed to be saying that we couldn’t cycle across. It is narrow and the traffic is running fast but on the ramp they did give us plenty of room. He called Command then reluctantly waved us on. Cat was almost disappointed. Of course I wanted to ride this landmark but once into the flow of trucks, buses and cars even I wondered? Most of our fellow vehicles swung wide and were understanding. A few honked encouragement, others honked, a few even gestured disapprovingly at a couple of crazy gringos who were slowing their progress for a second or two.

A short break for to calm the nerves then off again, on the continuing narrow road in thick traffic. The shoulder is littered with rocks and debris. The first 20 Ks or so were really tough and the soaring temperature didn’t help. It was a real relief when we reached a big box type store, Super Xtra. We pulled in, sat in the shade and enjoyed a Gatorade.

From this point the shoulder widened and eased our fears of being hit. However, we fell into a constant flow of beautiful black butterflies with brilliant green markings. They were having a terrible day with traffic and their remains, some still trying to flutter, were scattered along our path. This is probably their annual migration. They’ve undoubtedly been making the trip for hundreds of generations. Mother Nature has probably, selectively, helped them avoid hazards of the trip like predator birds but they haven’t patterned in the fast flow of cars and trucks, yet.

We Hate Flat Tires

Progress was slowed by undulating hills and heat. Then, a flat tire. When we received the new wheels from LandRider they came with tires and tubes. The tires are okay for local riding but not too good with the weight we carry. Knowing this, we have saved the old Continentals installed in Cape Town, South Africa. They’re well worn but the Kevlar is still intact and tough. Also, we have the thick, sticker proof tubes, too. It was Cat’s tire, I pumped and we rode, I pumped again and we rode. At last, a little shack with bicycle repairs. I changed the tire but had hoped for a high pressure pump. This tiny little shop didn’t even have a pump, much less high pressure. So, I pumped and sweat and pumped and sweat. Imagine, we’ve cycled almost 10,000 Kilometers (6,200 miles) on these tough tires without a puncture. (We did have one tube failure) Wish we could find replacements, we’ve tried but they don’t seem to have them here or in South America? We’ve even tried Continental’s web site. They take our message but never respond?

This area is obviously the beginnings of bedroom communities. There are signs advertising new homes starting as low as $16,500. Simple floor plans, similar to those of the 50s and 60s built during those California boom years. Little homes on little lots but a good escape from the inner city. Small yards for the kids and pets. The American Dream.

Found an off ramp and went up looking for food. Found a little place with chicken and chips. Then, back to the ramp and down, against oncoming traffic. We couldn’t find an on ramp? Probably a street through town but this was easier than exploring in the heat.

New Homes

Our goal today is a City called Chame. It’s further than we thought and, with our slow progress it’s becoming obvious that we’re not going to make it. A guy at the little restaurant told us that there is a Pension in Pueblo Sajalices. Though only 15 Ks, the ups and downs and heat have taken a toll. We struggled in and after playing ask, ask, found the place. It’s pretty much a cement block cell. There is an AC and TV. The AC did cool the room and even gave us a chill after our cold showers. The TV only speaks Spanish on both channels. It did give us a glimpse of the news and we understood almost every other word.

There is a Rodeo, one of those Bull Throwing events we’ve wanted to see, just down the road. Fireworks brought it to our attention. The woman here told us that there would be food there then thought abut it and got the point across that it may not be safe. We think she feared that when the Cowboys get to drinking they may not accept a couple of strangers in their midst.

There is no restaurant here in Sajalices. The gal called a Taxi and as the rain began to pour as it often does in the early evening, we rode into Chame, a 20 K trip, for dinner. The driver dropped us at the only restaurant, a Chinese place, open tonight, and promised to return in 1 hour. The order of Chow Mien and Fried Rice were gigantic. Half of it ended up in a big “Doggie Bag”.

The driver appeared, spoke to us, then stood and drank a Cola at the end of the bar as we tried to figure out who he was. We sat wondering why this stranger had stopped and talked with us before it finally hit home.

He struggled back to Sajalices in blinding rain as we argued about whether the rate he’d quoted was round trip or one way. In the end, he turned to us and asked only for the originally asked $4.00. Imagine, he made the trip out and back for us then again to drop us, for only $4.00. We’d almost convinced ourselves that it had to be an each way fee.

So, into our little Concrete Box, safe from the elements and Bull Throwers.

August 15, 2005
Sajalices to DeCameron
77 Kilometers

Up early and out here was easy. On the road by 7:15 AM, we soon found a little Café serving eggs, toast and coffee. We were definitely the center of attraction, other costumers and passersby all stared and wondered. The little store next door opened as we ate. After tucking 2 Gatorades into our bags we were back aboard the bikes and underway at 8:00.

Oliver on a Motorbike

It’s a long uphill pull out of Sajalices then a series of ups and downs as the sun rose and heated up the day. We stopped at almost every opportunity for cold drinks. As we crested one of the hills a guy on a Motorcycle passed going the opposite direction. He honked and waved enthusiastically then made a U turn and came up from behind. Oliver is on the oft traveled Alaska to Ushuaia route. We filled him in on our experiences and he did the same for us. He’s been on the road for more than a year. Like us, he’s worried about getting back home, back to a normal life and he’s only halfway there.

More ups and downs, more heat and we have begun thinking of a day off. At mid afternoon we turned off the road searching for a Hotel. The locals pointed off to the left. After a kilometer we entered a dirt road and a steep downhill followed by and equally steep up that we had to push. The Hotel is actually a low budget resort. A sort of abrupt young gal showed us a room. Pretty dismal, a bunk bed and the only window is full of a small air conditioner. We put on our thinking caps and had a pretty good lunch in their restaurant. The waiter told us that there’s a nice place just 3 Ks further down the road.

The reverse struggle in hotter heat, back to the pavement. Then as described, a 3 K ride to the turnoff to DeCameron Resort. We know about these places, Cat had seen them in a brochure at Lila’s office. They offer only full board packages at pretty high prices. Colombian owned, they did have nice looking facilities in the brochures.

Another dirt road to the Resort. Bumping along we thought it couldn’t get much worse then we ran into road construction. Freshly graded and watered dirt with plenty of rocks. A real workout.

An Expensive Treat, DeCameron

At the gate a guard came from the shade of his little house and asked to see our reservations. Our response brought a furl to his brow. Apparently he’s never faced this situation before. He summoned a woman who looked us over and said, “We have no room available”. Not wanting to go back through the mud and crud, I became insistent. She took all the whining she could stand then called the lobby. Maybe overruled by a superior, she sort of winced then sent us down the roadway to the main lobby.

As we rode up a young guy rushed to us and wanted to know where we were coming from, where we were going. His name is Ventura and he says that he’ll get us anything that we need. He ushered us into a too cold room full of families checking in. The process is strange, they give you a brochure about the property then make you sit and in our case, freeze waiting for your number to be called. Ventura intervened and hustled us to a clerk. She helped us fill out the registration and confirmed the too high price. Well, for families it may be a good deal. In fact we feel that if you book early they probably have more favorable rates. The facilities in clued lots of water sports, snorkeling and scuba, even windsurfing and sailing. Poolside activities are scheduled throughout the day to keep the kids entertained. For us, the food will be the only good thing about our stay. We need rest, not exercise.

The vacancy they found for us is in a Townhouse on the golf course. Ventura assured us that it would be on the ground floor and easy to get the bikes in to. WRONG! I called and asked to change but they insisted it was the only available room. A young guy working the grounds offered to carry the bikes up for $2.00 then withdrew the offer when he tried to life one. So, we had to take all bags off, make a dozen trips then struggle up with each bike on the spiral stairway. The tires made a few black marks on the walls but at these rates, they can afford a little touch up paint.

The room is really well furnished and the bed comfortable. A real up-tick from last nights Concrete Cell. The AC works so well we had to damper it down in short order. There isn’t enough room for the bikes so I lashed them to the hallway railing.

Much needed showers then we began to explore. The maid was working in the downstairs room so we took a look. What an ingenious idea, the down unit is a 1 bedroom with living room, dining area and kitchen. The 2 bedrooms up are lock out rooms in a 3 bedroom, 3 bath townhome. You enter through a lockable door then each room has a lockable door, too. The owner can rent all or part. We felt lucky to have even one of the bedrooms.

We walked out onto the golf course and Cat took a couple of practice swings. No club, just arm swings. As we near home we both talk of life after. One of her dreams is to get back into the game, golf that is. While she made her air swings and dreamed large raindrops began spattering on the green. We had to make a dash for our room.

Cat Swings

The afternoon rain today comes by the bucket. So thick that we couldn’t see across the fairway. Based upon info from Ventura we’d called and reserved a table for 6:30 PM at the Japanese Restaurant. It’s a long walk to the place. We called and the girl said they’d send a van right away. We waited then at 6:20, called again. She assured us that it was on the way. We waited then at 6:45 called again. Another assurance and finally at 7:00 it pulled up out front. The driver would only drop us at the main restaurant. A short walk he said, to the Japanese.

With rain still pouring we ducked into the secondary lobby hoping for a ride to the restaurant. The guy at the desk had some bad news for us, the restaurants have 6:30 and 8:30 seatings like a cruise ship. The doors are closed now for the first. Cat went down to an Italian place below and the waiter allowed us in. Then, somehow, a communication gap, I ordered a Veal Oso Bucco and we both asked for pasta. They delivered the pasta, a huge plate then left us to our own devices. Having a tough time getting all the spaghetti down, I asked the waiter about the meat dish. He seemed perplexed and got a point across, too late. I was almost full, just enough room for a plate of the great looking sweets. The 8:30 crowd is beginning to press against the doors. In fact they surged in as we bellied up to the dessert bar.

Good food, a ride back to our little lair then CNN, in English. Awe, life can be good, expensive but good.

August 16, 2005
Day Off in DeCameron
Plane Crash in Venezuela

The news this morning is full of a plane crash in Venezuela. A Colombian charter plane headed for Martinique went down in the hills near Maracaibo. It’s the 3rd crash in the past 2 weeks.

The breakfast buffet is huge and there are plenty of huge people taking advantage of it. We relaxed and enjoyed people watching as we ate. They have pools with games of all sorts going on already. Deck shuffleboard, golf, billiards, ping pong, etc, etc. Reminds us of a Club Med.

A Poolside Respite

The grounds are beautiful. Cat did a walk around photo shoot while I hit the keyboard and played journal catch up. We walked back down for lunch with our swimsuits under out cloths. Lunch was another gorging and we took full advantage. Then a relaxing lie by the pool, even a cool dip. Cat loved the chaise lounges sitting in shallow water. We watched arm wrestling for beers and a game of water polo. The walk back to the room was hot but helpful digestive wise.

	Exercise

More typing for me, TV for Cat. The rain started late afternoon, right on cue. We called for a ride at 6:00 PM, they were here in minutes. Dinner at the huge buffet, midst the huge crowd. We tried one of almost everything. They had us back in the room in time to see Aaron Brown and the news.

August 17, 2005
DeCameron to Agua Dulce
78 Kilometers

An early walk to our final big buffet. We were on the road by 9:00 AM. The road is compacted slightly and our legs have rested. We pulled up at a building with a Tourist Info sign. They were awfully nice but had little in the way of info.

A Troubled Cyclist

The road is flatter and faster today. Still hot, we stopped for a drink at 10:30 and found a gal from Canada, Ruth, in the little café. She too is cycling but claims she’s lost all her equipment to thieves? We chatted while she chain smoked. Then she began telling Cat about events connected in the world and into her life. Somehow she has deducted that the 3 plane crashes are related. She uses words, like Pan and Ma to denote Father and Mother. Other strange connections that include Elvis and she loops in things, questions unanswered. She seems paranoid, even connects the robbery she says that she incurred on someone from Canada that send word to the robbers. When she spoke of her sister she used a last name. I used it to ask if it was her name, too. She became withdrawn and asked, “Hoe did you know that”?

She pushed her bike around and asked what we thought of it. It is a touring bike with racks for bags, an odometer, even a light. She says that she has cycled from Ottawa, down the east coast of the US and Mexico. I took the camera out and she turned away and said, “No pictures, no pictures”. A cordial goodbye and she rode off toward Panama City. I did sneak a pic of her cycling away.

A light lunch at a roadside place then onward in the heat. The road is still flat and we are moving right along. We wheeled into Agua Dulce at 4:00 PM. The Hotel recommended to us by someone was pretty dark and dingy. Cat checked the room then walked next door to the Hotel Plaza Agua Dulce. Lighter and brighter but still pretty basic. We’ll have to leave the bikes in the Lobby but it still feels enough better to make that sacrifice. They do have AC and TV but no CNN. HBO and Cinecanal both have in English language movies.

Cat got Chinese food form downstairs and we feasted on the bed while watching a movie.

Oh, lest we forget, the rain made its usual late afternoon appearance. No wonder they call this place a “Rain Forest”.

August 18, 2005
Agua Dulce to Santiago
61 Kilometers

Up and ready to go. The restaurant here is closed. We have to go back to the Hotel we rejected yesterday. No problem, good food and service. We were on the road by 8:00 AM. The first 25 Ks were through construction. Difficult, often only one lane with flagmen controlling the flow but drivers seemed to be with us and gave plenty of room. Then, we finally the new road and very good news for us, they have one side blocked to traffic. We had it to ourselves. At one point I called out to the workers, “Gracias para el camino solomente biciclettas”. They laughed and one answered in English, “For bicycles only now”.

	Private Path

Flat and fast most of the way, we rode into Santiago by noon and up to the McDonalds. Chicken sandwiches and good conversation with a couple, Ron & Maggie from Connecticut. Their daughter Stephanie and Grandson were out in the play area. She and her husband are Scientists, here with the Smithsonian. The little guy enjoyed climbing and stretching his legs after the long ride from Panama City. We loved sitting and talking with Ron & Maggie. The guys at McDonalds told us that the best Hotel in town is the Hacienda. It’s a 2 Ks ride out of town.

Cycling on, we found the place and it looked great but isolated. Then bad news, no rooms. So, back to town, the Clerk at Hacienda suggested Hotel Galeria. Bad news becomes good, Galeria is located between McDonalds and KFC, nest to a shopping mall.

The room is more than adequate, they have almost every TV station imaginable and FREE Internet access. The very nice girl there, Yany, sent us to the Shopping Center with our laundry. The Super Market is huge. We got wine for our happy hour and a bottle for the travel bags.

Dinner in the plain looking restaurant was not plain at all. Great food and, they let us bring our own wine since their supply of white was minimal. It was like home cooking with pretty good wine. Very nice, indeed..

August 19, 2005
Day Off in Santiago

Real pancakes and maple syrup for breakfast. A real treat.

Market and laundry for Cat, I pounded away at the journal pages. Fresh laundry and replacement wine. We walked to KFC for chicken sandwiches and greasy fries.

Cat spent her afternoon with the map and guide book figuring out our route through Central America.

Dinner and again our own wine in the restaurant. Pasta and darned good pasta at that.

TV news then sleep.

August 20, 2005
Santiago Medical Day, EKG for Pat

A difficult night for me, heart pounding and little sleep. My diagnosis is that the greasy food yesterday didn’t settle well. However, I feel less than ready to jump on the bike and ride 100 Ks or so. Yany directed us to a clinic in the Center. The lady there didn’t speak English but got the point when we did sign language indicating burning pain in the chest. She had us wait then got a gal who spoke some English to run an EKG.

“Am I okay”? Just like at home, she’s the technician, the Cardiologist will read the results. Dr. Abrahim looked the strip of paper over carefully then did his best to tell us that the EKG is perfect. “Corazon is muy fuerte”, heart is very strong. His conclusion, Gastrointestinal irritation. His prescription, soft, bland food, antacid and rest.  

Okay, we’re here for another day but then, we can use the rest. I did a little journal work. Cat flicked channels. Sandwiches in the room for lunch.

Dinner, fish and boiled potatoes for both. Quite bland and quite good.

TV news, another movie then sleep and dreams of the road.

Sunday, August 21, 2005
Santiago to David
77 Kilometers
113 Kilometers in Jose’s Toyota

The sky is partly cloudy, the sun bright. A good day to cycle and I feel good, too. Breakfast, we filled up on eggs, bacon and I had an order of pancakes, too.

Out the door by 8:30 AM. The construction continues but the nice concrete lane is gone. Cars and trucks are close but courteous. It was a tough 26 Ks then, voila, the new road and a wide clean shoulder.

Good road, but the clouds dissipated and left us in broiling hot sun. Cat began having a tough time, her energy was waning. As if to add insult to injury, the road began to pitch up and down. Slight rollers at first then steeper and tougher hills. It ground us down to a walk on most of them. Both of us were pouring sweat by the buckets. Cat’s strength was draining out her pores.

	Narrow And Bumpy

Our goal, a small town called Tole is at about 90 Ks. Yany had called yesterday and found that there is no place to stay. She did talk with the Police and they told her to have us call them when we get in. They can find a house that will let us stay.

Giving Up on an UP

At Kilometer 77 on a hard, hot up, Cat gave it up. Amazing, a pickup coming up slowed when she threw her hand up then pulled over. Jose is one of those wonderful Angels we meet when truly in need. He helped us lift the bikes into then set the AC low and drove. He’s an Agro Engineer specializing in rice. Today, a Sunday, he was out checking on a rice crop ready to be cut. He looks at quality of the grain and mildew or mold that may require special treatment once cut. Whatever the reason, we’re glad he was here for us. Cat has really gone down hill on the up hill pushes.

As we pulled into Tole she reached out, touched my shoulder and said, “Do you mind if we just go to David”? She actually only beat me to the punch by a nana second. I too hated to think about roughing it, staying in a little house that may or may not have air conditioning. Foraging for food and water, we have used almost all of the 6 bottles we started off with. We were in agreement, we're going to David. No problem for Jose, he lives there.

He told us of his University education here at David and how he met his wife there. When they married it was a given that they’d live in David where she was raised. The have 2 kids, the perfect family. So perfect in fact that the eldest, a boy is named Jose. His wife and daughter are both Yolanda’s. Perfectly perfect.

About 20 Ks out of David it began the afternoon rain storm. Jose drove us right to the Hotel National. He and I got soaked getting the bikes down. He jumped into this truck and was about to drive away when I yelled that we needed his telephone number. He quickly scribbled his home and cell numbers down then urged me to get under the roof. What a wonderful guy!

Our room isn’t as nice as Hotel Galeria and it fronts on the parking lot which fills the room with noise. Dinner, we sat near a couple, Merilio and Toko. They both work with the United Nations. He has just taken a position as Director of Agricultural programs in Panama City. She has relocated to Boston to study nutrition. They saw us on the road. Merilio is a cyclist and couldn’t believe that we’d come so far today. We had to confess.

Dinner in the Italian Restaurante. Pizza for Cat and Pasta for me.

A little TV but it was tough to keep our eyes open.

August 22, 2005
A Day in David
Merilio & Toko

A decision last night to have breakfast with Merilio and Toko led to getting up a little earlier than we wanted. Then, they were a little late and he ha to rush off to a meeting. Originally from the Dominican Republic, he had no problem sharing his opinion of the USA. After all he said, the US invaded his native land. He has been working with the UN in Italy. Toko is originally from Japan. WE brought the camera to get a picture of them then forgot in the rush as Merilio ran off to his meeting.

We called and invited Jose and his family to dinner. He seemed excited. He told us that he’s been trying to explain our trip to them. He also said, with pride, that his son, Jose, speaks English.

As we Taxied to the Post Office it began pouring rain. The lady at the window got the point across that we must go to the Liberia and have the package boxed and wrapped. Most of our package is CDs, the lady at the wrapping counter had a box. I cut it down but needed stuffing stuff. A local newspaper and a little cutting on the box and it was ready to wrap. A strange process, she has to wrap it in brown paper that we bought and used a tube of glue also provided by us. They don’t allow any tape on the outside.

Back at the Post, it was now flooded. Had to wade through a small lake to get in only to be told to go around back. Another larger lake, the sandals are really paying off. The guy in the back was eating a sandwich and didn’t seem interested. He waved his hand to tell us to set our package on the scale. Once finished munching he checked the weight and the form to tell us the cost to mail. He sort of winced when he told us the price. It’s about the same as most places but obviously he thinks it’s pretty high. Then, he got friendly. Applied the stamps and took the package to the clerk rather than making us carry it back out into the rain.

When the deal was done we prepared to leave by the back door but the water was now 6 inches deep. He came to our rescue by opening a side door and letting us out onto a dry area. People can be very nice.

Another in room picnic for lunch then journal for me and TV for Cat.

Dinner With Jose, Yolanda, Jose II & Yolanda II

Jose and family arrived right on time. We had pizza and good conversation most of which was interpreted by Jose II. He’s a bright young guy and does pretty well with English considering that he has little opportunity to practice. Jose is proud and rightfully so. Jose II is 12, Yolanda II 8. Yolanda, his wife, works at a bank. They are a true upwardly mobile family. (Yuppie) From his nice Toyota pickup truck to what they describe as a nice home. He’s also proud that he doesn’t drink alcohol and has never done drugs.

Strange Fish

We shared two large chicken pizzas.

August 23, 2005
In To Costa Rica
David to Neilly
68 Kilometers
480 Colones = $1.00 US

A beautiful morning, bright and sunny. Up and at breakfast early then off down the road. A few little rollers at first then it leveled off. We got up to pace and held it for most of the morning. As we passed through one of the many Checkpoints we were surprised with a request to stop? The guy wearing a DEA vest yelled out so I pulled up abruptly, right in front of him. He backed off slightly then said, “Passports”. Okay, we pulled them out and he handed them inside the little shack to another. Then he demanded, “Open bags”. I objected, he pressed. I raised my voice and told hi that we’d been in Panama for several days, passed these Checkpoints and never had to open bags. He started to back off. The other guy came out and asked for the little white paper we were given when we entered the country. We dug them out, I handed him mine and he spent a few minutes studying it then realized that he had it upside down. Slightly upset, he handed mine back, waved to Cat to keep hers and told us to go. Mr. DEA was astounded. He’d tried to exert his little authority and failed. We rode on.

Heaven in cycling circles. The next several Ks were a long slow down. A real smooth coast for the next hour, just like Jose had said it would be. We were at the Costa Rica border in no time.

Almost the typical scene, maybe a little less hectic. We rolled past a long line of trucks then a couple of guys pointed to a little shack and said, “Inmigracion”. We pushed down the bumpy dirt alleyway. The crossing out of Panama was finished in minutes. Oh, he did want a couple of bucks, departure tax.

Cycling has a definite advantage when crossing borders. We just cycle right to the head of the line. It was even easier here in Costa Rica, getting past the border. First things first, we tried to get cash from a machine but failed. After changing a $20 US with a guy on the corner we went to lunch. Chicken Burgers, pretty good but slightly more expensive here.

The bad news, the road narrowed to 2 lanes without a shoulder. It was really tight when the big trucks and buses roared by. It’s a real jungle on the Highway and along it. Green is the color and it’s everywhere. Lush grass and trees, waterfalls cascading down from the hillsides. Birds and insects singing their songs of love. Maybe even a monkey or two howling for a mate. Beautiful.

We were in Neilly by 2:30 PM. Oh, another time change, it’s an hour earlier here then in Panama. The El Rancho Cabinas are less than basic. The bed’s lumpy and no AC, just a fan. As Cat always says, “It’s only for one night”.

A refreshing cold shower then a walk into town. Yes, they have Internet and we spent time getting back in touch. A nice little market with a good bottle of wine.

It starts to rain an hour earlier here. Darned time change. By dinner time it was torrential. The place we thought we’d walk to seems miles away in this rain. The Hotel restaurant is now open. We ran across the flooded field and slipped and slid inside. Strange place, there are a couple of guys setting up a Karaoke Machine. They had a full menu but when we talked steak the guy suggested chicken. Since we’d had chicken for lunch we decided on fish. Again, the waiter said, “Recommend chicken”. Actually that’s all they had, chicken and chips. The rain was still pounding down, it was another chicken and chips affair.

Amazing, by the time we hustled back to our dumpy room the muddy parking lot was full of trucks, cars, even a tour bus.

August 24, 2005
Neilly to Palmar Norte
80 Kilometers

Woke up a little rum dumb. No telling what time it is. Even though we’d just had a new battery installed my watch finally gave out during the night. A peek out the window seemed to confirm our feelings that it was late, all the cars and trucks were gone. Hurriedly packed, we walked into the Pueblo looking for food. A little shop and a guy seated there who called out, “Come in here, she has good breakfast”. How could we pass on an English language invitation like that? He didn’t continue the conversation? We tried to get one started and failed. Had he used all his English skills? Guess we’ll never know. Breakfast was greasy, crusty fried eggs, mushy corn tortillas and weak coffee. Oh, he did have on a watch and surprised us when we asked, “Siete”, its only 7:00 AM.

We pedaled back into town for a pic of main street and were on the highway by 8:00. Up, a pretty good pull up out of Agua Dulce. Then a never ending series of ups and downs. Soon it was hot, hot, hot. Cat began losing energy and feeling queasy again.

A sign pointing to Golfito, 12 Ks away on the coast drew us over for a picture. Brooke, a friend of Cat’s owns a property there.

Randall & Jesus

A shot in the arm, rice and beans at a roadside place did fill the need for food. She started feeling better. The clouds thickened and the sky darkened. Then came the rain, pouring down in torrents again accompanied by great peals of thunder and white hot bolts of lightening. We sought shelter under a bus stop cover. A couple of kids at the house behind were shouting and waving. We waved back and they dashed out and around to us. The house is the local school. The boys sat and stared, one, Randall, spoke a little English. He counted to 10 for us. He’s also a leader. The other boy sort of listens and does for him. He told us that he has gloves like ours then sent the other guy, Jesus, running to the place nearby to get them. He was proud to show them to us. Jesus also brought his bicycle along. They got a good laugh when the rain let up and the teacher started walking down the road. We were almost ready to make a break for it when the downpour began anew. She took off on the run but was getting soaked to the skin. Randall whistled, Cat did her fingers in the mouth shrill whistle which astounded them. Then I taught them how to clap my famous super loud clap. Nice kids.

	Thunder

Jesus pedaled, Randall rode the handlebars. They followed along until he tired. We’d spent about an hour waiting out the storm with them. We crossed the bridge over Rio Terrado and pedaled into Palmar Norte as the sky cleared and the bright sun shone through. We asked a young girl about a nice place, she said, “Go to Dickies”, and pointed down the street. The big sign says, DiQuis, the attached Pension, 0ur first choice of lodging, was fully booked. They recommended another place. Cat walked down the street and took a look while I sipped a second soft drink and stood the guard at DiQuis.

Cabinas Tico Alemana were okay. Clean and they do have cab le TV. She took a room, came back and we cycled back. Our soggy, muddy cloths needed a wash. The woman who checked us in told us to give them to her helper. She charged 8 Colones, less than $3.00. Weary, Cat went for Chinese food. Pretty good but unlike the Chinese we’re used to. We ate in the room, watched a movie and listened to the rain that has begun pounding down again. .

August 25, 2005
Day Off in Palmar Norte

DiQuis is the place for breakfast. Eggs, bacon and toast for Cat, real pancakes with syrup for me. Back at the camp, we set our cycling shoes out in the sun to dry. They are really soggy. We sat our rain and sweat soaked helmets out next to them.

Walking through town we were seeking a strange phenomenon. There are a lot of rock balls in this area, carved by pre-Columbian peoples. It’s not known why or what significance they may have played in their lives. Surprising, they’re big, almost as tall as Cat.

Getting across town is quick and easy as it should be in a small town. They do have a little Internet Shop. While there we met “Gringo Mike” and his wife, Karen. They own a Posada on the beach. Our hostess at Alemana has suggested that we should cycle on the coast rather than on Hwy #1 up and over and into San Jose. Their opinion was the opposite. There’s a 44 Kilometer stretch of rough unpaved road on the coastal route.

Cat provided a picnic in the room. We placed our helmets and shoes in the sun hoping they’ll dry. Then I did journal pages, she went back and cleaned up messages.

Iguana

Dinner at DiQuis. A little like fast food but quite edible. Even allowed us our own bottle of wine to supplement.

Early to bed.

August 26, 2005
Palmar Norte to Dominical
67 Kilometers

Shoes and clothing are dry, there’s no excuse, we gotta go. Back to DiQuis for breakfast. I had the truck drivers version, eggs, bacon and hot cakes. A real power breakfast. Mark, a guy seated nearby exposed himself as a Gringo when he spoke Spanish. Oh, he knows the language pretty well but the accent. He’s from Colorado but living here for a couple of years. He has a property that he’s subdividing on the beach. While I chatted with him he asked if we were cycling the beach. When I told him we’d been advised to take Hwy 1 he was adamant that we shouldn’t. Too much traffic and lots of hills. That sort of got to Cat. Then she met Chrissy from Northern California and her friend Louis from Montreal. Chrissy and her husband are building a Hotel and Casino. We recommended that they contact Pedro and Susan, remember them, our hosts in the Galapagos? She too urged us to ride the coast road. Marc says that it is destined to become Hwy 1 when finished. Politics is keeping the last 44 Ks unpaved. Locals here in Palmar who will lose business, maybe even folks in San Jose who will lose the main flow of traffic to the Capital City.

Convinced, we set off toward the coast. A very healthy climb then little ups and downs. Gringo Mike and Karen passed us on one long uphill pull and waited at the top. They were surprised to see us. We told them that we had measured the mountain vs. dirt road and the lowlands won. They’re going to their property to measure off the prime lot where they will build a home. They have a Real Estate Office and are subdividing this property.

		Cattle Jam
Water Fall	Leaf Cutters

The plano (flat) that they all talked about was not to be. A stop for a soft drink and a young guy, Glenn, from Seattle walked up and started a conversation. He told us that his Dad, owned a property here and he was sort of visiting it. His Father’s an Architect but gave up the material life years ago. He took a job with Habitat for Humanity when Glenn was a kid. That upset and uprooted the family, moving them to the Philippines and into a very interesting life style. Looking back, Glenn says that the move was the best thing that ever to him. He’s really been around, very worldly for his young years.

Pressing onward at a strong pace, we were in Dominical, hungry and tired, by 2:00 PM. The town is tiny and the roads all dirt or mud as the case was today. Seeking sushi, we followed the signs to Fifi’s only to find it was closed. We stopped at a nearby, cool looking restaurant and had chicken quesadillas and seared tuna, great. The waitress, Asa (pronounced Onsa) is from Sweden. However she’s been living in California for several years. She’s just completed her Graduate work and is a Therapist. Now the strange thing, her Mother lives in Ventura and teaches golf. She came here about a month ago seeking tranquility. Her brother owns property here and insisted that she back away and take a little time for herself.

She recommended the Hostal that the guys who own this restaurant have. It’s down near the beach. Cat took a walk but came back disappointed. Simple and surrounded by a sea of mud. It is close to the famous beach where set after set of perfect waves roll daily. We pushed to another nearby place. Di Wui isn’t a whole lot better but quite a bit higher priced. Guillermo, the desk manager gave us a little discount, a free half hour of Internet time and breakfast. It began to rain, that made the decision easy.

A sort of warm suicide shower then rest. I walked to the little liquor shop around the corner and got wine. The rain began to really pound down. We hated to have to walk for dinner. The restaurant is only open for breakfast but tonight they’re testing a new pizza oven. That sounded good to us. We brought our wine and watched the production. It was like the Keystone Cops do Pizza. The final product wasn’t like most pizza but not bad. It worked for us.

No TV here, so early to bed.

August 27, 2005
Dominical to Quepos
44 Kilometers

Breakfast was not bad, a bit slow on delivery but the food was adequate. Two couples seated nearby were talking books and surf. Fran & Ellen are from Delaware, Bob & Jane from San Jose, California. They’re here to learn at the Green Iguana Surf School. Best of friends now, they’d never met before coming to Dominical. They were both drawn by the great website. Senior Surfers, they really are learning and the next lesson is at 9:30 this morning. We had to have pictures. This is what life after 50 should be like. Get a dream then live it! Bob and Jane both still work, she’s a Real Estate Attorney. Fran and Ellen are retired. He had a heart attack in 1999, just a year ahead of Cat. It changed his life, he stepped out of the Corporate world and began a life of relaxing leisure.

44 Ks On A Bumpy Dirt Road

Back up to the Hwy and to the left. The pavement ran out just across the bridge. From this point onward, was a struggle. Rough and rocky, often mud and slippery. Several bridges, some very dangerous. We stopped at a store, bought soft drinks and took them to some nearby tables. A woman came out and told Cat in no uncertain terms that this is her restaurant and we should have bought the drinks form her. Cat offered to move and explained that we thought it w all one big happy business. She re-emphasized that it wasn’t but then invited us to stay seated in her shade. We did!

Toucans?

Rough Jungle

We rode the rough and rocky road with reckless abandon.

As we bumped along I began rhyming words then came up with the above. It’s a variation of the sentence my high school Spanish Teacher used to teach us how to trill our Rs. So, if you too are interested in learning Spanish use it, let your tongue flutter but be careful not to sound more like a Scotsman than a Spaniard.

	Truck Crossing	Pick The Best Spot

Struggling on in the heat, we stopped again for lunch at a Club. Kind of a strange place, locals hanging a