Cycling in Cuba
Cycling in Belize and the Yucatan, Mexico

So, is BIG BROTHER watching? Several friends have suggested that as soon as we put these journal pages onto the Internet our own US Government Watchdogs will become Government Attack Dogs. Well, we’ll see. You know, in the HOME OF THE BRAVE, LAND OF THE FREE, it isn’t against any law to travel to Cuba, it is against the law to spend money there??? In our opinion the entire EMBARGO is a dinosaur, a left over from the COMMIE HATING DAYS. Don’t they know that Communism has faded? The fear of it has been replaced with the fear of terrorism. We didn’t see any terrorists in Cuba but they do have free education, free dental and free medical insurance for all. Isn’t it time to open the flood gates? Let freedom flow through free access. It shouldn’t take long for things to change.

At any rate, we wouldn’t have missed the trip for the world. It is a very interesting part of OUR WORLD. So, read all about the beauty of Belize, see the Historic Sites of the Yucatan and get our perspective on the people, places and old cars of Cuba.

If you can’t ride it, READ IT!
Our journal pages are for our own use and your enjoyment. This chapter is not intended to promote or even encourage tourism there. In fact, until things change, if you're on a short vacation you should probably try Mexico, one of the Central American Countries or a Caribbean Island.

September 26, to November 8, 2005
The Boat to Belize
September 26, 2005
Honduras to Belize on a Boat

Up early packing and readying. Down with bags then worked up a sweat getting them on the bikes. Our pre-ordered 7:00 AM breakfast was slow service, again. There are a couple of guys in the other room, we think the staff served our breakfast to them? When we finally got ours it wasn’t even close to what we’d ordered last night. Did we send it back, no. We can’t afford to be late this morning.

A walk to the boat dock and we met our pal Junior. Remember, we met him on bicycle as we entered Puerto Cortez? He told us that it was too early and guaranteed our seats. He suggested that we bring the bikes but we feel more comphy with them under the stairs at the Hotel Prince Wilson. So, back to the room. Really glad that we left the AC going. More CNN News until Junior knocked on our door.

We followed him back to the boat, met the Captain then he made a deal for a ride in the back of a pickup truck to Immigration and the bank. The driver is charging us 40 Lems each. We told Junior that it only cost 100, down and back? Then the really interesting part of the trip, we had to sit in the back of the truck. It slightly miffed us but the upside, we were joined there by 8 other boat travelers. It was fun comparing notes. One young guy, Brian, is with a Teen Missionary near the shore of Lago Yojoa in Honduras. One couple from Belgium, Francois and Sara are going to Placencia, a small town south of Danriga, on a different boat. The rest, Keely, Ben, Sarah and Phillip are Peace Corp volunteers in Belize. They’ve been vacationing together in Honduras.

The boat ride was a bit bumpy, nothing like the ride back from the Galapagos but bumpy at times. Our bikes are snug, in the cabin. They actually take up the entire aisle. When Phillip went forward to take a nap he had to crawl over them. We pulled into Danigra in just 3 hours.

Boat to Belize

On the wooden pier at Danigra we all had to talk with Immigration before they would allow us to get our things off the boat. The crew and I struggled to get the bikes out of the cabin then lift them onto the dock. We had to lay them down on the dock while we filled out the immigration forms. An easy process, the Officer was just sitting casually on the dock. He glanced at our passports, took the form then waved us in to Belize.

The Captain of our ship said that the best Hotel in town is Pal’s Guest House. We had to ask a couple of times but finally made our way there only to be disappointed. It looked like a concrete, 3 story walkup prison. Across the street and on the beach was a house with a sign, SeaClift B & B. It looked like our kind of place but when we cycled to the fence the welcoming committee of mean looking dogs worried us. There is a bell but the place looks deserted. The ringing only excited the yapping dogs, more. Then a gal came out and said that they did have a room and quoted $75. What a bargain, the deal here is that Belize Dollars are traded 2 for one US $. We pushed around through the yard amidst a now friendly pack of 3 dogs.

The rooms are very nice, in fact we have a choice. Each of the two rooms is similar but only one has a fan and TV. Another treat, all channels are in English, the official language of Belize. The gal, Selma, took us around to the side and opened the laundry room door where we stored the bikes.

We’d just settled in when another gal came to sign us in. She said that the rate was $75 US. We objected and she gave in but took breakfast out of the equation which was fine with us. The rooms are just bedrooms with private baths in a fully furnished house. We have kitchen privileges and Cat wants to cook.

Very relaxing, she prepared pasta that we had on board and we ate in front of the TV which is satellite and has 90 channels. Oh yes, we had a bottle of white wine aboard, too. A very relaxing evening.

September 27, 2005
A Day in Dangriga

A lazy morning then we decided to take a walk and look for coffee. A little bakery had muffins and coffee. Pretty good and pretty expensive. Things here are expensive, as they have no industry to speak of and everything, including most food, is shipped in.

We did find an Internet Shop and spend a couple of hours there. Lunch meat at a little store and we went back to enjoy daytime TV and sandwiches.

I hit our keyboard and Cat went back to Internet to add names to our list of friends and clean up messages. She stopped at the Market on the way back and bought pork chops and fresh veggies for dinner and ham and eggs for breakfast. We’re really making ourselves at home.

September 28, 2005
Dangriga to Belmopan
55 Miles (89 Kilometers)

Awoke to a steady downpour. Watched, hoping it would slow or stop while we ate our lumberjack sized breakfast. It did lighten up so I pulled the bikes out and we loaded up. When Cat went up to pay our landlords, Bridgett and Brian, insisted that we chat a bit.

Bridgett & Brian

Brian is a Century 21 Real Estate Broker. It’s a fairly new career for him. He has been in Public Education most of his working life. In fact he was doing consulting work for the Seattle, Washington School District when he met Bridgett. She lived in Los Angeles and was Curator of the African American Museum at Exposition Park across from USC. As fate would have it she left there and applied for a job with Brian’s firm. The rest is history. She too has a career here as CEO of the Belize Citrus Growers Association.

CASH

They have grown children, a daughter in the States and son here in Belize. They also have 2 young adopted sons, Clifton and Sean. Clifton is Garafuna, Sean is a mix of Garafuna and Honduran. Both had been abandoned by their birth families. Brian and Bridgett told us of that a lot of children, especially those like Sean of mixed heritage, are left on the streets or in orphanages. Both Brian and Bridgett are Rotarians and they’ve just started a program sponsored by Rotary called CASH. Children, Active Safe and Happy. It’s designed to help these homeless waifs find a better life. Let us know if you’re interested in details, we’ll put you in touch with Bridgett and Brian.

A great part of the joy of this Odyssey is meeting people like Brian and Bridgett!

Reluctantly we left in a slight mist, waved our goodbyes and hit the road. We’d only gone 5 miles when Bridgett passed and honked on her way to work. We took pictures of her office but decided not to bother her and spend more time since we have a tough road ahead.

The road was fairly flat and dry for the first 26 miles as Brian had told us. A quick stop for soft drinks and we met Jorge & Yvonne. They own the Store are actually farmers. This little village was booming when they built the Store. Now he says that farming is really slow. Citrus prices are down so he and his brother try to scrape out a living selling staples to neighbors.

Then came the hills. The first was so steep that we were ground down to a push. The ups continued but we were able to ride them, slowly. Then, just as we crested the summit it began to pour. At first we just ignored it and rode on then it became so thick that traffic couldn’t see us. We pulled up under a little grass roof bus stop and waited. It slowed slightly so we decided to make a run for it. There were a few more ups but mostly downs between us and Belmopan. The rain slacked then stopped. We rolled into town and did the ask, ask and finally found shelter at the Bull Frog Inn by 6:00 PM.

The rooms are simple but clean. The price like too many things here, is too high but we were ready to stop. Paul checked us in and sent us to a warm shower, the right way to end this rough, cool, wet day’s ride. The room is too small for the bikes but Paul arranged for us to park them in another that is unused.

Met a guy named Pat, from South Carolina, on the way in. He’s with a Concrete Construction Company overseeing construction of the new US Embassy here.

Dinner in the open air, mosquito filled restaurant. Pat was there, we talked a bit then one of his Foremen and family came in. Dinner was okay, the beds felt great. TV, again satellite and too many choices.

September 29, 2005
A Bus to San Ignacio

Breakfast is just okay. A fast affair then off to the Bus Station and San Ignacio. We booked the direct bus. It is twice the price but air conditioned and makes no stops. Takes about 1 hour less time, too.

MayaWalk Tours, Jimmy and Jose

MayaWalk Tours office is adjacent to the Bus Station. We walked around the building and into the open front office and store. Nice guys, Jimmy and Jose, they don’t have anyone booked for a trip to Tikal tomorrow but feel confident that they will. The deal is, we have to pay more if we have the Van to ourselves. After discussion we paid the “us only” fare with the promise that they’ll refund us $10 if they get other clients.

Then we walked, looking for a placed that Jimmy had suggested for a room. Walking in the hot sun began to take a toll. We asked a group of Police clustered around a US Embassy car, they sort of shooed us around the corner. At last, we gave in and haled a taxi. He drove us to the place, we took one look and had him drive on.

Martha’s Guest House

When we were walking we came upon Martha’s Café. There is a building next to it that looks like a Hotel. The ladies in the Café told us that the Guest House near the Center is open but this new annex isn’t, yet. We had the Taxi drop us at Martha’s Guest House. What a treat, we met Martha, looked at the room and booked. It is cute, clean, air-conditioned, very reasonably priced and walking distance to everything.

Next stop after settling in, lunch. A very cute and well known place. Several other obvious tourists there, reading their Lonely Planet Books as they sipped and nibbled. The Internet Shop around the corner consumed an hour, checking and answering. Then Cat went for a haircut and I returned to Martha’s for a nap.

Dinner down and more chit chat with Martha. She has just completed the new Hotel but won’t open until the season begins later. He tells the story of being raised on a ranch near San Ignacio then working until she could buy her own place. She and her daughter run the Restaurant and Guest House. No mention of a Mr. Martha, she skirted the issue only discussing her difficult years and how she loves working with her daughter. Really a nice, hard working gal.

Interesting, at dinner down we found François and Sara, the couple from Belgium that took the other boat from Puerto Cortez. Fun comparing travel notes and stories. Dinner was very good, Pizza for Cat and Steak for Pat.

A little TV then lights out. .

September 30, 2005
Cat’s Birthday #52

Since we had to be at MayaTours office by 7:15 we walked to the Restaurant next door to them for breakfast. As we ate Jimmy gave us the bad news/good news. We are going alone so, no refund. The good news, we have the van and guide, Edgar, to ourselves. 

A Rough Ride to Tikal

It’s an 80 Ks ride, the last 30 of which is on rough dirt road. We crossed into Guatemala, and had to leave our Belize van and driver, walk through, and pass Immigration then board another Guatemalan Van. New driver, too. That’s when the road turned to grit. We bumped along and the driver told stories of having just finished work with Survivor Guatemala. You know, the Reality TV Series. They just finished taping the episodes here, last week. He had a “Pride and Joy” baseball cap with the emblem above the bill. Edgar was thoroughly impressed and wore the hat most of the way to Tikal.

Bumpy road to Tikal

The good thing about having Edgar to ourselves, we really swept through the Ruins in record time and didn’t miss one climb or walk in thick jungle. That’s the difference between this site and other Mayan Ruins, it’s in thick jungle and a hilly area. Some of the hills are man made or should we say Maya Made. These guys were very clever, constructing high ground using the dirt from water storage reservoirs. At this point we’ll let the pictures do the talking. Hope you find at least 1000 words in each.

Tikal is a wonderful experience. It’s not as visual as Machu Picchu but you do get the feeling of what life must have been 2.000 or more years ago. Back when as many as a Million people lived and worked in a complex society. Signs of their lives are seen on the trails and in the clearings. Te clearing, the main squares, with their Temples reaching toward the sky, are memorial to these long gone peoples.

Where Did They Go and Why?

From more than a million to almost extinct? Where did they go? There are many theories the leading one, overpopulation drove them to famines during dry years. Some scientists today are using Tikal as a model when studying the affects of too large a population. They say there are some parallel issues we’re dealing with today.

Express Bus back to Belmopan

The trip back to San Ignacio was just a reverse of this morning’s trip. Edgar jokingly tried for the hat but the Guatemalan driver only laughed, as we bumped along. Back across into Belize and our other van pulled up within minutes. They hustled, pulled up at Martha’s and waited while we picked up our bags then dropped us at the Bus Terminal in time to catch the last Express Bus of the day.

We were in Belmopan before 5:00 PM. Another Taxi and it was Happy Hour at the Bull Frog. A nice Birthday Dinner for the Cat after a hard days ride to an unusual place. A Birthday she’ll never forget.

Fatigue caught up with us fairly early, we were off to bed.

October 1, 2005
Belmopan to Belize City
50 Miles (80 Kilometers)

Breakfast was not cheap and not that good. We collected the bikes early from the un-used room and loaded and pushed them out into the restaurant area. Sitting alone, we pondered the advice, “The road is flat or downhill form here to Belize City”.

So, an early start that immediately took us into a narrow road that undulated up and down. Not so much up that we had to push but enough that we did hit Granny Gear a few times. 

A soft drink stop at a poorly stocked Café/Service Station. Nice guy working there, he used to live in New York. Most of his conversation was complaint, he explained that Belize produces so little that they have to depend on imports. That leads to high prices.

Bar/Restaurant. The guy there, Bruce, told us that they had no food, more a beer bar. He pointed down the road and suggested what he called a Fast Food place. We thanked him and rolled back out through the puddles.

Westby’s Cool Spot is like a Drive In Restaurant. Several locals sitting, eating and watching as we propped the bikes up and began to figure out the menu. The locals stirred, we turned and there were 2 more “Road Warriors”, Sarah and Emily, pulling in. Had to be a rare occurrence here, no wonder the others all stared as we settled in and ordered. We took a table together and talked as we ate greasy chicken. They’ve been Peace Corp Volunteers, just finished their 2 year tour of duty in Honduras. They’re both Education Specialists and have been working with kids in a small village. Now, a big adventure, they’re cycling back home. Well, to Sarah’s home in San Simeon, California. Emily is from Durham, North Carolina. They expect to be in California by Christmas. Pretty strong cyclists, pretty brave young girls.

After brief goodbyes Sarah and Emily took the fork in the road to the left. They’re heading toward Valladolid, Mexico. We veered right, toward Belize City.

The Girls Push Off

Our early start had us in Belize City by 3:30 PM. The strangest thing about entering town is that there’s a Cemetery in the middle of the road? It skirts both sides of the highway too but there’s an island of Head Stones, right there, in the middle of the National Highway. Very strange, obviously the highway came along after the cemetery was established. Also, the relatives of the Median Dwellers must have preferred an eternity of traffic jams rather than moving their loved ones?

Rolling along and following our map, we were soon lost. Asking for any Hotel, we were told to go to the Swing Bridge . An old draw bridge, actually a bridge on a swivel that swings sideways to allow boat traffic to pass. Across, we were directed toward the Tourist Zone then to the Radisson Hotel. They did have rooms but at a price we shouldn’t buy into. Then a guy sitting on the sidewalk pointed toward the next driveway and said, “The Great House”. A very nice Hotel, large room and Satellite TV. The only downside, all rooms are upstairs. Cat got us checked in while the Bellman and I struggled up the steep slippery tiled stairway.

Cat negotiated and even better price by promising to stay 3 nights. (Todd, the director of LandRider Bicycle’s Infomercial has sent a Video Camera that will arrive Monday. So, we’ll stay and explore.) We were now at less than ½ the price of the Radisson. Steaming hot water for a shower that felt great even after a sizzling hot bike ride.

Dinner down at the Smokey Mermaid Restaurant. Pretty good wine, smoked pork chops for me, pasta for the Cat.

Sunday, October 2, 2005
A Walk, A Rest

Our included breakfast is served in the Smokey Mermaid. The desk clerk has to give us a voucher because the Restaurant isn’t part of the Hotel. W enjoyed juice, fresh fruit, toast and good, strong coffee.

As we set off we ran into the only other people we’d seen at dinner. They’re from Canada. Jim is touring on a Motorcycle, his girl friend, Charlene, flies in to meet him and ride a little from time to time. Too bad we didn’t talk last night, they’re off today and she’ll be returning to Canada, soon. They rode away and we set off to explore the area and look for an Internet connection and Market.

There’s a tall lean lighthouse on the breakwater at the end of the street. Not just a lighthouse, it’s also the crypt for a Brit who had lots of money. He lived here, invested in the arts and theatre then left the remainder of his estate to the people of Belize. Sorry but his name has escaped us. The harbor is fairly picturesque. A guy called out, “Hey, take my picture”. So I did. Funny, he’s standing in front of a sign for a Bakery and the line above his head says, “Yu Dun Seh It”.

Our walk around, looking for and Internet Shop proved fruitless. Oh, they have them but they’re all closed on Sunday. Most of the shops are closed today, too. We did find Brodie’s Market and bought lunch meat, cheese and bread.

With little else to do, we picnicked in the room, watched movies and rested our tired and cramping legs.

Dinner down again. They had a lamb special that was really tasty but messy. The meat was on bones, we picked them up and ate like Cave Men. There are a couple of other tourists here but they kept to themselves. Maybe due to our interesting table manners?

CNN news then the end of a very restful day.

October 3, 2005
Wild goose Chase to FedEx

Today’s breakfast was fractured, the girl told us that we couldn’t have fresh fruit, just coffee and bread. We complained and told her we’d had fruit yesterday. She sort of apologized and told us that we weren’t supposed to have had it yesterday. So, we were banished back to the “Bread and Water” breakfast.

Our quest for the day is to find FedEx and retrieve the Video Camera. Cat found an address in the Lonely Planet, we walked and asked until we found it only to find that they’ve moved. At Mail Boxes Etc. we asked the guy to call and see if FedEx could deliver to his shop. He called then told us that the package was being held because there may be Import Tax due. He told us that we’d have to go to the Airport to see the Customs Officer.

Geez we hate the hassle of Customs Officers. Our thoughts flash back to the dilemma in Lima. Then there was the hassle of getting out to the Airport. Taxi fare was $15 out and $15 back. We did find a local bus that got us close for only $1.50 each. Close was too far to walk so we had to take a Taxi. Turned out not to be that far but in the hot mid day sun it would have melted us. Cost for Taxi, $4.00. A $7.00 trip.

Then, when we found FedEx, the guy there checked his computer and told us that there was no Import Duty problem? Geez, all this, at the cost of $14.00 US, for naught? He called the office downtown and confirmed that they had it. In fact he was able to have them deliver to the Hotel. A little good news amidst the disturbing.

A couple of guys in a Taxi who had just dropped someone at the Airport tried to bargain with us for the ride back. They dropped the price from $15.00 US to $10.00. When we told them we’d take the bus for only $3.00. The driver looked over and said, “You’ll be on the Chicken Shit Bus”! I said, “Noting wrong with a little Chicken Shit, in fact some of our best friends are Chicken Shits”. They laughed but they still thought we were cheap skates.

Internet then another trip to Brodie's for lunch things. By the time we got back to our Great House, FedEx had already delivered. I spent the afternoon putting to get the Video Camera together and trying to figure out how it works. Cat worked on filling in missing days in her journal. Another picnic and more TV, too.

Dinner down again, we both chose the fish special and it was great. A fellow we’d seen at breakfast, Robert from Arizona, sat next to us and we chatted. He’s retired from Banking but is here working as a Consultant with the Belize Ministry of Health. Nice guy. Oh, the only white wine they have is Ernest & Julio Gallo, one we’d pass up back home. Here it tasted pretty good. Imagine a California Wine in Belize.

A little TV news then sleep.

October 4, 2005
Boat to Ambergris

Richard and Marshall, a couple from Colorado sat near us at breakfast and we chatted. They’re here with kids, one son, his and daughter, hers. It’s a vacation with a little business thrown in. Marshall owns a couple of properties on Ambergris Caye and they’ll explore the possibilities of selling one of them. Richard is a sculpture and has a Gallery in Telluride. Marshall is a Psychiatrist. She told us that her first husband and son were killed in a plane crash. She has a tough time flying. I can relate to that, not the loss but the uneasiness from the time the plane lifts off until it stops rolling at the destination.

The boats leave at 10:00 AM. We passed the main boat line and pushed around the harbor to Triple J. Tickets cost $10 less and the boats look similar. We bought the cheaper deal. Got the bikes onto the dock then sat and watched a Coast Guard inspection. They checked the engines, counted the lifejackets and made lots of notes. The crew stood by waiting and watching. Finally they signaled that we could board. A couple of guys helped lift the bikes aboard, we leaned them across the stern area. A little late due to the shake down but we were finally off to Ambergris.

The wind was whipping around the harbor, the water was choppy. W watched as 2 launches delivered passengers from a cruise ship laying outside the barrier reef. The Tourist area is alive this morning. All the empty booths of yesterday are full of trinkets and souvenirs. The Cruisers were anxious to get off the boat and spend.

Once we cleared the Harbor the water flattened and the boat flew across the turquoise sea. They make a short stop at another Island and drop a few of the passengers then on to Ambergris. In a little less than 2 hours we were there. They dropped us on a Pier and we pushed ashore. Unsure of direction we stopped at Pelican Properties. When in doubt ask a Realtor.

Chris, the Owner Broker was friendly as a good salesperson should be. He allowed me to make a quick trip to his Restroom. When I told him we were going to stay at Julies place, Caye Casa. He knew her and started giving us directions then said, hold on, a second and called Julia. When he hung up he said, “She’s on the way here, it’s easier to lead you there than to describe directions.

Julie pulled up in her Golf Cart, traded familiarities with Chris then asked us to follow. The streets are sand but hard packed sand. We whisked up the main street then right out onto the beach. There to the sand was packed enough to ride. The place, 2 houses, is very cute. The room is a suite, clean and neat. Even a little kitchenette with microwave. And, a TV with lots of English language stations. We’re right on the beach, heavenly.

After settling in we walked to Papi’s for burgers and fries. Not great but not bad. Then on to the Internet Café to check with family and friends. Back to our little paradise and an afternoon of rest and TV.

Julie gave us a ride to the restaurant Blue Water and urged us to take a Taxi back. It’s a little too far to walk after dark. She insists that the Island is safe but still thinks it best to take a Taxi. The Blue Water is a wonderful restaurant. The owner, 23 year old Kelly is a delight. She is also developing a Condominium Project right here in town called The Phoenix.

Pizza and steak. All very good, a little expensive but good. We’ve learned that Belize is a lot more expensive than the other countries in Central America. The taxi back to Caye Casa cost $7.00 Belize, that’s $3.50 US and it’s only about a 1-mile ride.

CNN News then off to sleep.

October 5, 2005
Ambergris, Lunch with Bob & Diane

Breakfast at home, we had juice, bananas, Coffee and muffins. Our appointment for lunch is the culmination of more than a year of communication over the internet. Clarence and Annabel, the couple that we met in Tanzania used to own a Restaurant here. They urged us to see Ambergris and meet their friends Bob and Diane when we do. So, we have an appointment and Bob is going to pick us up. He arrived in his golf cart, the preferred mode of transportation here then drove us to his boat, the other.

We set off walking but soon knew that it was a mistake. The sun was so hot it baked our brains. The little bugs so thick that we were both itching, scratching and scurrying from shady spot to shady spot. Along the way we watched the Hand Pull Ferry plying its little tiny trip back and forth with payloads of locals

A Hand Pull Ferry

Wilkie is at the tiller and he skillfully powered us through channels of Mangrove then past the famous “Pull Ferry” and out to sea. As we passed Bob told us that they’d soon build a bridge, too much traffic for this old Ferry to handle. Ambergris keeps growing, that’s progress but sometimes the old things that mean so much will just fade to memories. Well, that’s life, right?

Hand Pull Ferry

We’re headed down coast to see Bob and Diane’s new homes project, Seascapes. Diane was there, waiting for us. They gave us a tour as Bob checked with his workmen. The project, 8 luxury homes, is completely pre-sold. Both Bob and Diane are easy going and easy to like. She sold Real Estate with Jon Douglas Company before she and Bob got together and began their Ambergris adventure. Like some of the advice we got when we sold out and hit the road, her Office Manager told her that she was crazy to leave her career behind to go to some god-forsaken place.

That was good for a laugh, I know of the gal who gave her that advice. In fact she and I have several friends in common. We walked down the beach as we talked then sat on a balcony overlooking the white sand and turquoise sea. This is a paradise. The restaurant has just re-opened under new management, the food and service were good. The conversation was so much fun that we made a date for dinner tomorrow night.

Bob and Wilkie whisked us back into town via boat. We walked to the Internet and spent a little time and money then went back and lounged around on the porch of our Casa.

Dinner, we ordered chicken to be delivered. No veggies or potatoes but we did have some left over pizza. Plenty to eat.

It started to rain, we watched it pound down on the hard packed sand then turned our attention to the TV. A good movie then CNN News.

October 6, 2005
A Golden 66 Birthday in Ambergris

So here it is, truly the beginning of my golden years. Wow, 66, seems like just yesterday I was a kid. Well, I’m still a kid at heart. A short dip in the beautiful Caribbean, what a way to start a birthday and a new time of life. The water is cool, invigorating and refreshing. Another breakfast in, we found some wonderful Cinnamon Rolls at the bakery around the corner. Also fruit and coffee.

Faced with choices, we decided not to go snorkeling. It sound great but would take most of the day and cost $50.00. We chose instead to take a walk up coast to Clarence and Annabel’s old place, The Capricorn Resort Restaurant.

We set off walking but soon knew that it was a mistake. The sun was so hot it baked our brains. The little bugs so thick that we were both itching, scratching and scurrying from shady spot to shady spot. Along the way we again watched the Hand Pull Ferry plying its little tiny trip back and forth with payloads of locals

The Capricorn is further from town than it looks on the map, about 4 miles. We passed it, asked then back tracked and took photos. The place is closed for the season. The Time Share Resort, Captain Morgan, is open, we checked with them regarding the boat back to town. The Salesman was interested in our trip and told us to wait at the dock for a free ride to town with the Resort Boat. A good tip, a good ride under a shade cover with the crew as they joked and kidded.

Internet then lunch at Fido’s, burgers and fries. Cat went back to answer messages, our new Journal entries have hit so we have the normal 300 messages to scan through. I hit the keyboard trying to catch up on the next Journal Pages.

It began to rain as the dinner hour approached. Julie volunteered to drive us to B & C’s for a drink before dinner. It’s next to the Blue Water, yes, it’s so good that we’re going back tonight. By the time Julia wheeled into the parking lot it was really pouring. She joined us for a drink and introduced us to the local bar crowd. Fun folks, they all know Clarence and Annabel, some keep in touch via e-mail. We had a group photo with them sending good thoughts of our Tanzanian friends.

25,000 Days On Pacha Mama

Bob and Diane came by boat with umbrella on high. They had to run through buckets of water to get to the downpour. The sushi was as great as the evening, my 25,000th, more or less. (66 X 365 plus leap years.) Kelly was, again, the perfect Hostess. We really had a great time, talking adventures and Real Estate.

They had to don their rain coats for the boat ride, we dashed to a Taxi.

October 7, 2005
A Boat to Corozal

Muffins again, another just like home morning. It’s still drizzling this morning. I spent the morning finishing journal pages, Cat was back at the Internet keyboard. She found Chicken Burritos and brought them back for lunch. By 1:30 PM we had the bikes packed and ready to roll. The boat leaves at 3:00.

David from Italy on Bicycle

As we pedaled out of the yard, waving our goodbyes, a guy, David, cycled up. He’s from Italy and cycling around Belize for a month. Fun to try to talk and cut through his Italian and Italian accent.

Got to the Boat Dock with plenty of time to spare and a good thing that we did. They made us take all the bags off. Stacked near the bow, the crew loaded them aboard. The bikes were clinging to the transom just ahead of the outboards. I worried about them taking spray but they assured us they would be dry.

We grabbed a couple of seats near the back and a good thing that we did. The boat was full and a few minutes late when they finally pushed off and headed across the translucent Caribbean waters. It was a beautiful, flat, sunny 2 hour ride. We were at the dock in Corozal at 5:00 PM.  

Loaded the bags then rode through town asking directions. Tony’s Hotel is on the fringe of town. It’s a bit on the seedy side abut does have a pretty nice restaurant and, free Internet. Bikes and bugs in room, we took cold showers just to rinse off the sweat then walked to dinner. Only one other diner, he and I seemed to really enjoy the 50’s and 60’s Rock ‘n’ Roll music.

No white wine, we were reduced to drinking red which was quite good. The food was just okay.

October 8, 2005
A Short Ride to Chetumal
26 Kilometers
Bienvenidos Mexico
1050 Mexican Pesos to $1.00 US

Early breakfast then an 8 mile ride to the Border. A very simple crossing, I stood the guard while Cat went inside. No line for foreigners. We are now in our 56th Country. The poor citizens of Belize had a different line and a totally different story.

The ride into Chetumal takes us away from the highway. We decided to go the side trip rather than risk the distance to another Hotel. Oh, then too there’s the need for Mexican Pesos. So off we go. 

The search for a Hotel took us to the door of the Holiday Inn. Wow, $120 US per night? Where are the cheap Mexican prices we’ve been looking forward to? Too rich for our blood, they suggested Hotel Los Cocos, a place down the street. As we exited a little lady approached and offered her family Hotel for only $20. We did take a look but it was a little too rough looking. So, it was the Coco.

The room is clean with a view of the pool. We stowed the bikes then had tacos and burritos for lunch. This is Mexico. I even took a dip in the crystal clear pool. Them, we just relaxed in the room and watched some English language TV.

Dinner back in the Hotel Diner. Fish wrapped in foil with a baked potato and Veggies. Not very Mexican but very good.

A little more TV then sleep.

Sunday, October 9, 2005
Chetumal to Limones
92 Kilometers

Up early and ready to roll. We had to shoulder our way through the huge French group to get a table for breakfast. Our plan to cycle 20 to 30 Ks was dashed when the Desk Manager told us that there is no Hotel there. The only place he knows is in the little Pueblo Limones.

After the back track we found the main Highway to be like a freeway with huge shoulder for our safe riding. True to our Desk Manager’s word, we found in Barcala that there is no lodging there, the next is Limones, Cabanas just another 50 Ks up the road. We bought a couple of Gatorades then Valentin, the operator of a little kiosk store, gave us the bad news. He was so interested in our journey that I took his picture after he insisted that we take a bottle of cold water for the road. What a nice guy, our first of many in Mexico.

Lunch, we turned off the Highway and went toward a tiny town. Every ask ended with the person pointing onward. Then, a little resort down a steep and bumpy rock driveway. They have a pier, canoes and a water slide. A few kids swimming and a couple of couples drinking beers and eating in the little Restaurant. The girl presented us with a menu then took it back verbally. They only had one of the items, She called it “Fish al la Plancha”. That should translate to grilled but when it arrived it was fried and full of bones. Hungry, we ate around them and had a couple of Cokes. It was tough push back up and we had to compete with a road grader now tearing into the rocky road.

Road construction out of Barcala then the freeway skinnied down to a narrow 2 lane. The afternoon sun bore down on us, as we sweat our way into Limones. Another little store, more cold drinks under a Hotel sign. Cat looked at the room and came back with a wrinkled nose. Pretty bad and a spiral stairway that we’d never get the bikes up. The woman was pretty nice, she told us there is another place but it doesn’t have air conditioning.

Preacher Barry, stuck in Limones

Blind Faith

The Pueblo is like Boron, CA, my old hometown. Just one string of businesses along the highway. We rode slowly on looking when a guy called out, “Hey do you tow speak English”? Reverend Barry is from Illinois. He’s stuck here and trying to raise enough money to get his family out of Chetumal. They flew down but when they changed planes in Acapulco they lost their luggage. He asked us to give him a loan with his watch as security. We’re too close to out of money to loan. He walked down the street as we rode.

Barry told us that this wife and kids are in Chetumal. We offered bus fare but he is actually looking for enough to get back to Acapulco or Chicago. He says there’s a good Christian guy at the Auto Repair down the street. As we walked he began to laugh. “Look at the locals, they’ve probably never seen a black guy or 2 cyclists like you guys before. We’re like a parade here”. That made us all laugh and, he was right.

The sign for the other rooms was so small and hand written we almost missed it. Then we thought it was a bar with boom box music so loud it hurt our ears. NO, it was a nice looking place, a 4 plex, around the corner. The family lives in the little house next door. The kids brought a top you spin off a string out and made a little show for us as we pushed into the yard. The room is tolerable, the shower cold. As we settled in they even put their copy of Jurassic Park on the TV. We lounged and enjoyed our 2nd or 3rd viewing, mainly because it was in English. As soon as it ended they switched to Cartoons in Spanish. A nice gesture to us.

We walked back to the bus stop restaurant. There was a Girls softball Team practicing. Great to watch, sort of like back home. Dinner, chopped meat in a slightly hot sauce, rice and tortillas. We washed it down with cold, great tasting Mexican beers. The waiter was very cool. He speaks English because he used to live in the US. Sounds like he was on the move most of the time. We thought he was the owner but he is just working with the family.

Back home, they had a Dance Contest running on the TV. We watched for a while but drifted off before the winner was chosen.

October 10, 2005
Limones to Felipe Carrillo Puerto
66 Kilometers

We were disappointed when we went back to the Bus Station for breakfast. Our pal wasn’t there and the gal who served us definitely got us for Gringo prices.

Antonio & Uncle Transito (You Must be Crazy)

The ride is flat and simple except for the fact that there are no stores or any source of food or drink. We pulled in at a little grass shack with a sign about Boat Trips to the Lagoon. The guys inside were all swinging or snoozing in hammocks. One spotted us and leapt to his feet. They have no food but do have a bottle of cold Coca Cola. We bought it and sat on the door step drinking as he, Antonio, worked with his limited English to communicate. They are Indigenous and therefore allowed to conduct tours here. He says that they do pretty well during the season. We told him about our languages on the web-site and he got it. He and his Uncle, Transito did “You Must be Crazy” in Mayan. You can see that we were having a little difficulty but they were great.

 "You Must Be Crazy" Mayan

Though the road is narrow, the traffic is very friendly. They swing wide, even honk and wave encouragement. We rolled into Felipe Carrillo Puerto and found the only decent Hotel by 2:00 PM. They had a room on the ground floor and we were able to squeeze the bikes down the narrow hall and into the tiny room. We immediately headed for the restaurant and lunch. Cat noticed that the guys at two different tables were wearing crosses. Men of the cloth she called them. The nearest, Raoul, is a Missionary, studying to be a Priest. He has really been around, even did a stint at the Vatican. Originally from Canada, he expects to be stationed here after achieving Priesthood.

The afternoon was simply lying in the room enjoying the AC and the TV.

Dinner down, very good pork chops and enough that we were able to save some fro the road, tomorrow.

Back to the AC and TV until lights out.

October 11, 2005
Carrillo Puerto to Tulum
A fractured 112 Kilometers

Up and into the diner for breakfast early. We’re anxious to get into Tulum and take a day off the road. We almost gulped down the simple breakfast and were on the road in record time. With 100 Ks to ride we were doubly anxious.

The road is flat and fast. Another day of no food or drink. We rolled into Tulum, the village, by 3:00 PM and headed for the best looking most crowded restaurant. There was a wait, the place next door was empty. The only guy there stood and invited us to take a table as we leaned the bikes. His Nephew owns the place. We ordered but the Nephew screwed up. A completely different lunch than what we thought we’d ordered. A bigger price, too. We were miffed but didn’t want to wait for them to cook again.

The Uncle also took on the roll of helping us find a Hotel. He got a guy from the place next door who he purported would be able to help. He had a loose leaf notebook with Hotel flyers and suggested one around the corner.

After another disappointment, following him to the place only to learn that it was booked and basically a back packer place with dorm rooms, we returned to the Restaurant. The Uncle told us that the best place in town, Seascape, is 5 Ks or so out of town. The booking agent was almost running along beside us trying to get a deal as we rode away.

Another 8 Ks only to find an All Inclusive Hotel with an attitude. Yes, they have a room and it’s only $140 per person per night. They didn’t have any idea who the guy with the notebook was and they have no rooms for $75 US as he’d suggested. I tried to work them, told them our story, even told them we would just sleep there and move on in the morning. They only knew how to say “NO”. For $280 I also said “NO”.

RJ the Realtor

So, back into town. Nearing the village we stopped at the ReMax Real Estate Office and talked to RJ. He’s the Owner/Broker. Originally from Texas, he’s lived here for more than 15 years now. We asked about rooms on the water. He told us that there are plenty but they have no electricity and there are a lot of mosquitoes down there, this time of year. He was a classic Texan, accent and all. He dealt with us between rental calls. We almost felt like helping out.

His recommendation is Don Diego. He says that he sends his clients there and they all rave about the place. We’d seen it on the way into town and decided against due to the location, off the road down a junky looking street and almost 1 K out the other side of town. We’re in no position to be choosy at this time. Both of us are drained from the heat and what is now a 112 K ride. Geez, if we’d pulled in when first we saw the place we’d now be off the road for 3 hours.

Charles, his Mom, Minh & 2 French Girls

Back through town and down the bumpy little road to Don Diego de la Selva. Charlie, the young owner, is from Paris, France. His Mother, Minh is also from France by way of Viet Nam. The room is really nice but no TV. This is a get away place and they see no need for it. There are 2 other guests, French girls, Cristine and Sandine, friends of Charlie’s.

Dinner is available if arranged in advance. Though a little late, they will have enough for us. After wonderful warm showers and a little well needed rest we sat near the pool and ate a very interesting meal of shrimp in light curry sauce and rice capped by a small bowl of delicious homemade sorbet. Awe, so very French, so very wonderful.

As we ate a couple, Father and Daughter came in. They’re definitely staying here but Charles had to tell them no when they asked for dinner. They didn’t seem too upset. They’re from the States, we said hellos and promised to talk at breakfast.

Fatigue drove us right to bed, on a full stomach.

October 12, 2005
A Visit to Ruinas Tulum
Caroline & Father Tage

Breakfast of blended melon, bread, jam and magdelenas washed down with coffee. Caroline and Tage joined us. The girls sat and talked with Charles. Caroline is an Attorney, they live in Tiberon, near San Francisco, CA. They’re here helping someone in the family with the purchase of Real Estate. Sort of secretive about the transaction. Nice to have a rapid speaking English language conversation.

We walked into town looking for an ATM and Internet connection. It was so hot we were glad not to be cycling. We found both and spent time answering messages. Lunch at the place we missed yesterday, it was great. No wonder it was so crowded yesterday.

A taxi back to Don Diego which by the way, Don Diego de la Silva is the name of the guy who is Zorro. We lounged and waited for clouds to cool things down. Then at 3:00 PM we taxied to the Ruinas de Tulum. The clouds and a breeze had cooled things. No wonder the Mayans choose this beautiful site for their only seaside community.

We were amongst a horde of tourists but did find ways to get photos without including too many of them. Another amazing afternoon in the midst of a place where life flourished so long ago. Hope the pictures do it justice.

Dinner with Charlie, Minh and the girls, again. A wonderful Roquefort Soufflé followed by polenta with octopus in tomato sauce. What a treat. Caroline, her Father Tage and friend Katalina went out to dinner but chatted for a minutes as they passed. The girls went dancing after dinner. We went to bed.

October 13, 2005
Tulum to Playa Del Carmen
65 Kilometers

Breakfast, another treat of Banana Cake with our coffee. Caroline, Tage and cousin Katalina stopped and talked for a bit. Still no deal so still no info on the purchase. Guess we won’t know until she sends an e-mail one of these days. Curiosity is killing us. The girls slept in, too much party last night. Charles suggested a small Hotel in Playa del Carmen, even called and reserved a room for us. We cycled away at 8:30 AM.

Attempt to take pics at Tulum Ruins

We rode to the gate and up to the ticket windows at the ruins hoping to find someone with authority to allow us a picture inside. By the time we went from person to person with no luck the crowds of tourists were arriving in droves, bus after bus. No one would take the chance, no one had authority? They said that we’d have to go to Cancun at the Museum Office to get permission. So, as the others continued to file in we rode on. Oh, we did get a picture at the sign.

Hot, flat and fast. At 20 Ks out we heard a yell from across the street. Another cyclist in the shade of a tourist shop. We pulled up, went across and sipped a soda while talking with Claiton from Brazil. He’s on a 16,000 Kilometer, 9 month journey. Difficult to talk with as he is fluent in Portuguese and Spanish but speaks little English and you know where we are language wise. We thought he was headed in the opposite direction so finished our drinks and moved on.

 Claiton Cycles

Another stop seeking shade and a soft drink at a service station, he caught us. We sat in the shade and chatted then rolled out and on down the road together. Another stop for soft drinks at McDonalds, I went for an McFlurry instead. Cooling and fulfilling. The 3 of us posed with Ronald McDonald to cap off the experience.

Hotel Casa De Las Flores, Under Construction

Claiton followed us and tried to negotiate a room but the price is above his usual Hostel. Beatriz, the owner suggested a place, he suggested dinner then rode on. Our room is simple but nice. The older guy, sort of a guard, helped us get the bikes into the office and assured us that they’d be safe. A warm shower and little rest then dinner.

Beatriz recommended Tango Tacos. A short walk, great food, meat, potatoes and veggies. A bigger than normal price but worth it.

A little TV then bed.

October 14, 2005
A Day in Playa Del Carmen

Breakfast, a total rip off at a nice looking little hotel down the street. Juice, toast and coffee, $600 Pesos. ($6.00 US) The coffee was weak and the toast like cardboard. Then as if to add insult to injury he charged us extra for the coffee. The total bill was 900 Pesos. That’s worse than a rip off.

Quinta Street is a pedestrian way and the main thing happening here. All the usual stores and shops full of tourist things. The nearby beach is beautiful. No wonder tourists flock to this place.

Some Internet work, lunch in the room and rest. Cat went back to the Internet, I hit the keys of our computer.

Later we walked around, found the Mall and Rolandi’s Restaurante. Great pizza and people watching. The streets come alive after 8:00 PM. One of our favorite characters is a guy with a pair of stuffed Levis. He’s wearing a big sombrero with a cigarette dangling from his lips. His stick is, he throws the legs over women’s neck, stands behind them and friends of the gals take a picture. It appears that he’s sitting on her shoulders. Very funny.

For us, 9:00 PM is sleepy time.

October 15, 2005
Playa Del Carmen to Cancun
70 Kilometers

A very good breakfast at a place on Quinta Street we saw yesterday. Good food at a good price. A couple from Italy sitting behind us asked if it was okay to take our picture as they left. They’d seen our shirts and he’s an avid cyclist. We tried to get the point across that we’d like to have their picture but language got in the way. They walked on before I could get the camera out. We were on the road by 9:30 AM.

Flat, fast and hot as heck, again. Then came the clouds and be blessed them until they began to spit down rain. Onward, until we were getting a good soaking. On the outskirts of town we pulled into McDonalds to escape the rain and fill the growing empty feeling in our stomachs. We really turn into fast food freaks when we have the opportunity.

The coastline off to the right is lined with high-rise hotels. No, not for us, we’re headed downtown, another Charles suggestion, Hotel Margaritas. Even the catchy name sounded right for us. Easier said than found, we worked our way through heavy traffic asking and asking until we found it. Not what we had really expected, it’s fairly simple but they do have an elevator, we can keep the bikes in our room and they offer free Internet. No CNN or much else on the TV. Hoping for more, we settle in rather than search longer.

We’d seen the Wal-Mart sign on the way in. Cat couldn’t stand it, she had to check it out while I began the process of bagging the bikes for travel to Cuba. She came back with bags full of essentials and an overwhelmed feeling. She said it was like stepping back to the Wal-Mart in Oxnard. Rows and rows of everything. No shortages here.

First Margaritas and Mariachi

The Mariachi sounds were loud lured us right into La Parilla. This is Mexico, Mariachi, Margaritas and great Mexican food. There was a table of women celebrating a birthday, we think. I took their picture with sombreros on as they sang. This is a fun place.

 Mariachi and Margaritas

Great food and music, 2 Margies each and we went back, Cat straight to bed me straight to the Internet. It was suddenly midnight? How the time flies when you’re having Matgies and Mariachis!.

Sunday, October 16, 2005
A Day Off in Cancun

The penalty for 2 ½ Margies each is a slight headache and a slow awakening. Our day starts with a Tylenol then breakfast as usual. No, not an included breakfast, not even a good breakfast. The only thing good about it was the price and that good was only in the eye of the owners. Strange town, hungry, we just hate to go exploring with a dull head and on an empty stomach.

Circling the Hotel Zone

After an hour at the Internet downstairs we walked about 2 Ks toward the Hotel Zone at the beach then caught the bus that makes the circle route. Our fellow passengers were mainly Hotel or Restaurant workers. We just sat and wondered at the huge concrete memorials to opulence in vacationland. This is a world renowned playground. Famous for the warm, clear waters of the Caribbean and all the other accoutrements that tend to form in places where big money is being spent. We didn’t even de-bus, just rode to the turn about then had to pay another 180 Pesos, about $1.80 to ride back.

The beautiful sea that we and thousands of others come to see is hidden by wall to wall buildings. Barely a glimpse from the bus and no photo ops. The entire loop is more than 21 Kilometers neatly measured out with large markers. I have been here once before, a trip with winners, those agents with the Real Estate Company I owned back then in 1985. We stayed at the Club Med and I had no idea it was in this “Hotel Row Zone”. It’s the last resort, so to speak, on the 21 K loop. We did decide to find a Hotel around the kilometer 9 – 12 area when we return. There are restaurants and fast food places clustered there.

More of the best feature of our Hotel, the included Internet and a little lounging around watching limited English language TV. (No CNN or any English language news but we get good snippets from Yahoo.

I reluctantly drug the computer out and continued my quest for the perfect journal page. Cat went walking, shopping and returned with sandwich goodies. Another picnic in room.

Dinner, we chose to walk to an Argentinean Parilla down the street thinking giant steak. The prices on the menu drove us back to the Pasta side. It too was expensive but fairly good and it went well with our wine. No more Margies for the moment.

October 17, 2005
Arranging for Cuba Flight

Today we walked to breakfast, a Health Food, pastry place Cat has spotted. Cappuccinos were delicious with the fresh croissants. Even fresh juice and fruits. All a bargain considering it was the same cost as the cardboard toast and Nescafe of yesterday.

Martha & Carlos
Zenaide Helps With Ticketing.

Another place Cat spotted on her reconnoiter, a travel agency sporting a Cubano Airlines sign. The owners, Martha and Carlos are experts on Cuban travel, they’re Cubans. However, neither speaks English and we all know the depth of our conversational Spanish. As we struggled, a gal who as also buying tickets and speaking with them fluently, turned and said in perfect English, “Can I help you guys”?

Zenaide, originally from Brazil, is now from California. She’s a Nanny for the rich and famous. She’s going to Havana on a quick turnaround to meet friends. She says her friends call her “Z” and we were glad to be counted among them rather than continue to try Zenaide which has a tongue twisting affect on ignorant English only speakers. She is opting for a standby position on tonight’s fully booked Mexicana Air Lines flight due to her short amount of available time. Her R & F family has moved to New York and she has to get there and back to work in just 3 days.

With her help we booked tomorrows Cubano Flight. Not much time to prepare but then we work best under pressure. AND, the threat of Hurricane Wilma is looming on the horizon here.

I spent an hour pounding out the remaining details on our Central American journal pages and got then sent to Wally our Wizard Web-Master then turned full attention to preparing the bicycles for flight. Cat headed out on a quest for travel bags, you know, those plaid plastic things that we put our panniers in when flying. She found them at an Indoor Market then scurried to Mall of the Americas looking in vain for a Lonely Planet book on Cuba. She did find a Burger King and returned with a bag full of fast food lunch.

Cat made another trip to Wal-Mart for food and other essentials we think we’ll need. I continued the breakdown and packing of bikes and bags. By 7:00 PM we were pretty much set to go so we went to dinner. The Parilla had the same great food, sans music. The choice for wine rather than Margies was ours. We can’t imagine flying with a hangover.

A TV Movie then sleep and dreams of a Communist State.

October 18, 2005
Cubano Air to Havana

Cat got juice, muffins and coffee from a little stand on the corner. Better quality and quantity than the Hotel food and less than half the price. Cat fell in love with the gal there, Olivia. She had lived and worked in Beverly Hills for 5 years and loves to speak English.

Next quest, chain lube and inner tubes. Jonathon, our friendly Desk Clerk told us to tell the Taxi Driver to take us to Mall of the Americas first. If the bike shop there doesn’t have what we need tell the driver to take us to Market 28, the bicycle area.

The nice Bike Shop in the Mall was closed. The nice girl at the Cellular Sales Kiosk told us that they open at 11:00 AM. Way too late for us, we have to leave for the Airport by 11:30 at the latest. So, off we go to Marketplace 28. The driver seemed to know where to go, circled through the same place where Cat had found the travel bags then dropped us and pointed toward an area inside.

The shop, yes there was only one that we could see, was far from what we’d expected. The guy has only a few parts. He had no Aciete, oil for the chain. The only inner tubes were made in Vietnam. We asked if they were fuerte, strong, and he shrugged then said, “Media”. Medium strong. The looked thin and fragile but better than nothing in a pinch.

Hailing another Taxi wasn’t a simple task. Most were across the big double street. Most were full of people. Finally, as time ticked away and we fretted, we flagged one. He drove fast and delivered us to Las Margaritas in record time.

Cat checked us out while the Bellman and I drug the bags and bikes down the hall, into the elevator and out the front door. We’d asked Jonathon to help us find a large Taxi. They’d called but none seemed to be forth coming. Finally as we neared panic the doorman stepped into traffic and whistled a little station wagon down. Tight but we crammed in and were off without what we thought was a minute to spare.

Several Porters surged out and hassled each other over helping us. We always prefer moving our own things when we can. Safer and saves the tip. This time we felt we needed to move fast so we chose 2. They pushed our things, we carried the little bags and we found ourselves at an empty counter. Somehow Martha had told us and noted on the tickets that our flight would depart at 2:00 PM and we must be at the counter 2 hours in advance. A Cubano Air worker lounging nearby waved to us to come to counter 24 and told us that they would open the windows at 12:30. Wow, all that hurry and worry for naught.

Rick From Chicago

Well, we were definitely first in line. At last, as other passengers began to fall in behind us we spotted a guy at the saran wrap machine. I wanted to encase the bikes but the young guy was hesitant. Then he told us it would cost $120 Pesos, about $12 US. I began trying to bargain but he turned and walked away. Back in line, he returned with his boss. He was a real hard nose. When he offered to wrap for 900 Pesos I was ready to go then he clarified, that was for each bike? Half again more than the young guys offer. I objected and a couple of guys in line took up for us. When they spoke to him he unleashed a barrage of Spanish. A guy in front of them, Rick from Chicago, said, “He’s bustin’ there chops for trying to help you”. I stood directly in front of the boss and said, “Forget it, we don’t need or want your service”. One of the guys did a translation as I turned away. The Boss spun on his heel and disappeared into the gathering crowd.

Smoke Filled Aisles

Rick’s married to Cuban girl and comes often. He never really made it clear what he does but it sounded like he is connected somehow to something interesting. He told us that he hosted a group of Doctors on a cycling tour of Cuba a year ago. His best advice was not to worry when the 41 year old Russian built Yak Aircraft is taking off and the aisle fills with what looks like smoke, it’s only condensation.

Check in was fairly painless except for the overweight charges, $60, we were 30 kilos heavy. We’d expected that but when they demanded cash. They did take Mexican Pesos so we made it. We shuttered as they threw our matched set of plastic bags and the bikes onto the conveyer. Mexican Immigration was just a rubber stamp affair. Lucky for us, Martha had already paid the departure fee with the cost of the tickets.

The flight was delayed, for no apparent reason and with no explanation. We all just sat patiently and chatted. Rick is just a couple of seats ahead and he says this is almost standard procedure. Finally we rolled back, bumped along the runway and lifted off at 3:00 PM. As the cabin filled with condensation and some of our neighboring passengers eyes filled with fear, we were glad that Rick had given us the heads up.

One hour flight was smooth as glass and into a new time zone so arrival was at 5:00 PM. local time. First stop, the Immigration booths. We started in as a couple but were quickly rebuffed. So, Cat went right and I left. The woman took my Passport ran it through a computer scan then she really gave the booklet a going over, page by page. Then it was face study time. She stared at the picture then at me then back to the picture then me, at least half a dozen times. Finally she stamped my Visa then buzzed the door on the back side of the booth. I spilled out, into the luggage area and heard Cat banging on her door. It was sort of stuck and she wanted to make sure she was getting in.

One good thing about Socialism, they don’t hustle you over luggage portage. In fact the carts are free and there are no Porters. Our bags came round shortly but we were last out due to the bikes. Special handlers brought them around to us and left abruptly without extending their hands for a tip?

The Cuban Money Exchange Game

You’d think that changing money would be a simple thing. However it gets confusing when you’re changing one currency foreign to you for another. The guy at the counter seemed almost gleeful as he counted and recounted our Pesos. Then, he whipped out a small pile of Cuban CUC. I questioned the conversion rate. He said, “Mexican Pesos weak”. We were happy that we o