November 8, 2005 to December 18, 2005

First, A Brief Update

Just a note to let our World Wide Family know about new plans. The roads in Baja are too narrow and too heavily traveled by speeding trucks and buses. So, after visiting Cabo San Lucas then returning to La Paz on one of those speeding buses we chose to go back to the Mainland. On January 25th we took the Ferry to Topolobampo. After an aside journey to the Copper Canyon on the famous train we’ll set off north on Hwy 15 along the coast of The Sea of Cortez. If you’re in the neighborhood let us know, we’d love to meet you there. The new plan is to cycle to Tijuana in Mexico then cross into San Diego. Our 1st week in March ETA should remain the same, we’re HOMEWARD BOUND!

These pages of our journal include the ride across the Yucatan Peninsula and a visit to marvelous Chichen Itza. Up the Gulf of Mexico then really UP and into Mexico City. So, come on along, meet new friends and enjoy the scenery. Once again we have outdone ourselves with too many pictures and words.

We’ll Ride Will You Read?

November 8, 2005
Catching Up in Cancun

Cat sought and got some mediocre muffins and so-so coffee. The coffee is Nescafe but the Vendor, Olivia, lived and worked in Beverly Hills for 5 years. Olivia speaks great English, she says that she worked for a “Rich Woman”. We ate in the room then I jumped on the Computer and Cat went back to the Laundromat loaded with clothing soiled with the dust of Cuba. .

Intrigued with Olivia, Cat stopped at her little stand again and bought her Tortas. Our second meal in the room today, petty good. By the way, our room seems so much better than the one we had 3 weeks ago. Maybe because it’s a little larger of colorful or located above the pool? Or, maybe because of the places we’ve stayed in these past 3 weeks in Cuba?

I turned to getting the bikes out of the wrappers and road ready. Our new Continental Tires, thorn proof tubes and Lonely Planet guide book to Mexico was delivered this afternoon. I did the best I could to repair the damage Cubano Air has done to Cat’s bike. Somehow in the rough handling they have broken a piece of the fork where the bolt holding the rack is located. We dug out our trusty zip ties and did a criss-cross. Hope it holds. Those precious zip ties are becoming as important to us as Duct Tape was to Acadiana, our band. Also, changed out Cat’s shifter that has begun to growl and show signs of wearing out. We tried to remember when we installed it? A long time ago. It may be the longest living shifter yet?

Cat found ham and cheese for sandwiches, another meal in.

Dinner down, they have a buffet. The place is pretty bleak especially when compared with food and atmosphere of La Parrilla. The food was okay.

Lest we forget, the Tourist Office at the Airport booked us back here at less than the rate we paid before. Part of the reason may be due to missing features since Hurricane Wilma. They are down to 3 local TV Stations and the Free Internet is down for the count.

A little laying in bed watching meaningless TV then early lights out.

November 9, 2005
Wal-Mart in Cancun

Olivias for breakfast, we sat curbside and felt like locals. Eggs and chorizo with ham, beans and toast. Very tasty.

Off via bus to Wal-Mart and filling a basket with food and drugs that we used up in Cuba. What a treat to be in a store that has everything. W even found an Allen Wrench to replace ours that is falling apart. We were like kids in a candy store.

New Tires and Tubes

Another day of greasy hands, I changed out the old tires. Put new tires and tubes on. The bikes should be road ready now.

We ate left over ham and cheese for lunch.

Finishing touches on the bikes and we spent time reading the new Guide Book. Also, we found an inexpensive Internet Shop just a block down the street. Geez, 5 Pesos per hour. (50 Cents) compare that to Cuba’s 6 to 9 CUCs and it makes you wonder about their super socialism. Well except that it keeps the locals there off the machines since that represents 1/3 or more of a month’s wages. Just another way to suppress outside information?

Walked down the street to a nice little Italian Restaurant and enjoyed Pizza. Not the very good and very inexpensive Cuban kind but quite good for western standards. A fellow seated across from us was eating veraciously and talking on the cell phone incessantly. He’s from Chicago, works on some project or something here. Told us that he’d ridden out Wilma and was “scared to death”. He said that the wind and rain just hung over his Condo for 16 hours.

November 10, 2005
A Test Ride
16 Kilometers
Out and Back to Hurricane Damaged Area

Cat went back to Olivia for coffee. We drank fresh orange juice with our bananas and ate sweet rolls from Wal-Mart with the coffee. A real in-room treat. Memories of home, we used to have juice, fresh fruit, muffins and coffee daily before we set off on this crazy odyssey.

Jonathon found a box that we are able to cut down and make work for mailing and booked us in for the extra 2 days at an even better rate. What a guy! This is an important mailing. All the back up pictures of Cuba, brochures and maps. After taping it carefully we walked to the Correo only to have to take it back apart for inspection? They hadn’t done that before? Once they sifted through we re-taped and they accepted. Should take 10 days to 2 weeks, they say?

Back home at Margaritas, we donned our cycling cloths and went riding. Down through the narrow busy street and out to the Hotel Zone. Hoping to ride to the 12 K marker and have lunch we found parts of the route tough going. There are still lots of visible damage and cleanup going on. The road is narrow so we rode the sidewalk until it disintegrated. Then as we cycled along the gutter with cars and buses almost touching our elbows, a Motorcycle Policeman pulled up and demanded that we cross over and ride the bike path. It was being repaved earlier but he pointed out that this portion was still okay. Crossing was another dash to beat the deadly traffic.

We did get a few pictures of the damage but gave up on reaching the Fast Food Zone. The bike path relapsed and we cold see that most businesses were still closed. So, we turned back at Kilometer marker 8. Windows and roves missing, Trees down, everywhere. This traffic is really terrible, they give no quarters to cyclists even when they can see that the bike path has been covered with trees. Then, to add to the misery, we felt the rain drips start. Light at first then pretty thick and we weren’t ready for it. The good news, the bikes functioned perfectly.

A real capitalistic treat, we had chicken sandwiches at Burger King.

Back at Margaritas, we began the bag packing frenzy.

Dinner at La Parrilla again. Still great, food and entertainment. I had a wonderful piece of fish, Cat stuck with the tacos. A guy with great voice sang and joked with the band. WE think he was sort of auditioning them. He may have a show in one of the Hotels and is currently trying to get musicians to get back up and running. There are signs in almost every window along the streets looking for employees. At any rate, we enjoyed the show.

Cupate

November 11, 2005
Cancun to Valladolid
100 Ks on Bici, 86 Ks in Marcos Pick-up

Last breakfast with Olivia, she wasn’t there until just before we finished. Leaving is always a slow process after being off the bikes for a while. Checking out was a stand in line process. Everyone was in a hurry to get out. Jacob, Jonathon’s understudy got our bill confused with someone else’s. The room rate was more and they had several meals charged also. Finally our turn, the right figures and a photo of the boys.

Even after getting up early we are off late, well, 9:00 AM. After asking several times, we set off on the same road that we rode in on almost a month ago. Lots of Wilma damage here, too. The McDonalds we stopped at on the way in is closed and the windows are covered with plywood.

At 20 Ks out we asked Police at a little food stand about how to get to the road to Valladolid. Language played a roll in the directions, they seemed unsure of what we were asking then motioned for us to go ahead past the Airport turnoff to the next road. We passed through a forest of completely stripped trees, not a leaf on them and many were broken like matchsticks. It’s an old, bumpy road with few cars or trucks on it.

Two jets took off and one landed as we passed the Airport. It’s not visible through the barren brush. We figured the guy from Chicago was aboard one of them, waiting for food service and the okay to turn his cell phone back on.

Trapped On the Autopista

Our old road just folded into the Autopista. We had no choice. The map shows the old highway adjacent to us but we can’t see it? The Autopista is nothing but a road. There are no turnoffs, no Service Stations of other businesses. Just a wide shoulder and the now scorching sun above. We seem to be riding in the midst of a swamp. The shade of an overpass without any exit or entrance to the Autopista was a good Gatorade stop. Onward, we passed a dirt road at the next overpass that led off to the right. We’ve been seeing signs of the old highway through the trees. For a moment we discussed turning off but uncertainty about the condition of the other road left us moving along on the wide shoulder in the hot sun.

Then the Autopista turned to a narrow dirt road. It has been under water in this area, probably during the incessant rains of Wilma? Struggling for the next 5 Ks we came to workers and a flagman. They gave us the bad news, its 50 Ks to the next Services and 130 more to Valladolid. There is no Motel or other sleeping place at the Service Station. This took our expectations down a notch.

They told us that we cold go back to the dirt road we’d passed on and get across to the old highway. We decided to forge onward. They got the point across that we couldn’t get across anywhere ahead because there’s water on both sides the road. So, a new plan, ride as far as we can then see if we can catch a ride.

Lunch, a can of meat, crackers and Gatorade. We parked against a Speed Limit sign and crawled through barbed wire to find shade. Not very satisfying but at least filling. You can see in the photo that the trees here were able to retain some of their leaves during the big blow.

Marco to the Rescue

Onward, we made it to 100 Kilometers found a guard rail to lean against and began trying to hitch a ride. Few cars pass, even fewer pickups or trucks. Then, at 4:30 PM, Marco pulled up in his new looking black Chevy Camionetta. What a nice guy, he jumped out and helped us get the bikes on board Maina, his wife waved from the window as we settled down next to the bikes in the back. It was a hot wind a-blowin’ against us as we rolled 85 Ks into Valladolid. Funny, we thought Marco and Maina lived here. He helped us unload then let us know that they live in Merida. They’d driven off the Autopista at least 5 kilometers just for us. They have a Family business, building Cocinas Espanolas. (Spanish Kitchens)

They dropped us at the Main Plaza across from Hotel Maria de la Luz. I watched tings while Cat took a look. She came back disappointed then walked across the Plaza to another near the Church. Back in just minutes, she found it disappointing, too. We’re taking a day to explore here and want a nice room. I found Hotel El Meson del Marques in the guide book. We pushed the bikes down the block, to the door and loved the place. It’s elegant and not that much more than costly than the others. The Bellman had us bring the bikes around to the garage entry to avoid lifting up half a dozen stairs. The Desk Clerk and another guy held a long intense conversation about allowing us to take the bikes upstairs in their elevator. They had no problem allowing them in the room and finally decided it would be too difficult to drag them upstairs to the 2nd floor.

AC on and though no CNN, they do have several stations with English language shows subtitled in Spanish. AND, they have wireless Internet in the restaurant. We took the computer down and tried but failed to connect. A young girl, Maria, spoke good English and tried to help, all to no avail.

A Bicyclist Has Been Killed

Dinner there and we met David. Originally from Australia, he spent a few years working in Singapore but has recently taken a job with International SOS and moved his family to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. He’s here reviewing an accident involving one of the Company’s SOS Assist Clients. One of their truck drivers hit and killed a Bicyclist. They’re not an Insurance Company, they investigate accidents like this to help Companies avoid them in the future. He has concluded that this Company has little liability because the guy on the bicycle was riding after dark without lights. He threw in the fact that the driver of the truck hadn’t hit a kid but an old man. I asked how old then told him that 55 isn’t very old to an old guy like me. Though it’s not a joking matter it did lighten the conversation. David is so glad to be leaving tomorrow morning, he misses his wife and 2 boys. A real joy for us to converse in English.

November 12, 2005
A Day in Valladolid

Filled with hope, se took the Lap Top to breakfast. Voila, it worked. We were checking e-mails when the girl Maria came in. She sat next to us then we invited her over. She’s 30 years old and from Mexico City, here working with General Electric, installing Thermal Generators at a nearby site. An Engineer, she spent 4 months in New York studying at GE’s Energy Learning Center. They work from 5 AM until 5:00 PM every day.

David joined us briefly but he had to rush service and food. His ride to the airport came just as he finished. Nice guy, anxious to get back to his family.

What the Heck’s a Cenote?

We want to visit a Cenote. What is it? Well they say that some 60 million years ago this area was struck by a huge meteor. The result, a huge crater that over the following millions of year’s cracks formed in the limestone around the perimeter and water began filling them. The limestone began to erode and cavities were formed. Many became connected by underground rivers flooding the cavities. The Mayans held them in exalted esteem, using them for sacrifice, usually of young women. Our LP Guide Book says that Cenotes were viewed by the Mayans as a direct route to heaven for those sacrificed as well as women who died during childbirth and soldiers killed in battle. There are nearly 3,000 Cenotes here in the Yucatan.

2 Cute French Girls in a Cenote

Guide Book in hand, we walked the streets and found what it called a bus stop. There are no buses just taxis. As we talked with one driver a couple of girls, Dorothee and Marina came up and joined the conversation. The driver quoted a high price they joined our argument that it was too high. A strange mix of cultures, Dorothee is French, Marina was born in Lebanon but parents moved to France when she was a baby. However, they both now live in Amsterdam, Holland. Their on a hitchhiking holiday, jus the 2 of them. The good news for us, they speak pretty good Spanish. After haggling with the guy the 4 of us decided to move toward a van parked nearby. The driver quoted the exact low price as the guidebook, we were on our way.

Cenote Dzitnup is out the highway about 6 Ks then off to the left another 2. The village is pretty non-descript. Dorothee argued with the guy selling tickets, trying to get a Student Discount for them and a Seniors for me. Didn’t work, discounts are for locals only.

Down a slippery stone stairway and into eerie green light. Too dark for good photos, the brochure has wonderful shots but they must have set huge lights for them. Also, there’s a hole above the water that would let in better light at midday. The girls stripped down to swim suits and dove in. We watched. There are bats hanging on the roof of the Cenote. So, there must be bat guano falling from above? A great experience for them and fun for us to watch. We left them there, laughing and swimming.

There’s another Cenote across the road and down about ½ K. We walked there, looked at the few trinkets offered and decided, “Seen one Cenote, seen them all”! Well they to wanted 300 Pesos each so that weighed in on the decision, too.  

A Taxi Van came bumping along from the direction of Valladolid, we waved, he stopped and sort of indicated we could wait here but we wanted to see the village that’s further down the road. All locals on board, students. They were as interested in us as we were in them. After looping we past both Cenotes and were on our way back to Valladolid.

Lunch in a little Taco stand, excellent Chicken Tacos then a walk to the Convent. The neighborhood is upscale, the street lined with nice single story colorful townhomes. The Convent was closed. We found the exterior interesting enough to have made the walk. Then the smell and sound of Tortillas being made drew us to a small factory.

Five kids were playing in a courtyard as we passed. The little boy was saying “Whiskey”, the girls were standing in a line. He was using a pair of toy binoculars as a camera and pretending to take their picture. So cute, we had to have a photo. The looked at it then laughed and giggled as we walked on down the street.

Cenote Zaci is right in town. Another nice thing, the cost is less than a dollar each. It’s open on the top or should we say the roof has collapsed. There are 4 young guys swimming, the water is translucent blue but dirt and debris have collected at one end. The lighting is perfect as you can see. Vines hang from the roof all the way down, into the water. Really quite beautiful. They have a few sad looking cages with birds and a monkey along the trail. We walked past and felt sorry for them.

An hour at the Internet and this day was in the record books. Dinner in the dining room of the Hotel again. Really good food and company as Maria joined us and we got better acquainted.

The sign at the elevator door is another lesson in language differences and the difficulty of translation. We have to assume that they don’t mean dead bodies?

Limited TV then unlimited sleep.

Sunday, November 13, 2005
Valladolid to Chichen Itza
45 Kilometers

Loaded and down the elevator we rode to the other Hotel for breakfast. They have a pretty extensive buffet. The price and food were both extremely good.

Its only 45 Ks to Chichen Itza and the road is flat but we did have intermittent rain. We’d called the Piramide Hotel in nearby Piste and reserved a room but took the turn off to Hotel Zone and decided to check in at the Club Med. The place felt deserted. When the Clerk appeared he had plenty of rooms, We would be the only guests. Cat looked at the room and found it to be small, no TV and twin beds but adequate. The price was slightly above adequate. We moved on.

Had to backtrack to the highway then into Piste. Passing the Piramide, we chose to move on, it didn’t have much curb appeal. Hotel Chichen Itza looked great on the outside but the room was small and only had a fan, no AC. Back down the street, The Piramide turns out to be a good value and the room large, the bed king sized and the AC pumped cool air. Even better, the owner, Carol is an interesting gal. And as a bonus, Calypso, a sort of long lost Hippie from Globe Arizona sells her hand made jewelry and tells stories of her youth and the Flower Children.

Mayan Highway

They were just cleaning the room so we walked across to an Internet Shop. An hour on the machines then back toward the Hotel. We’d just hit the steps when a voice called out, “Pat & Cat”. It was Klaus, remember, he and Sonia and traveling the world in a big camper truck? We met them in Panama then again on the road in Honduras. They’re parked in a grassy spot next door. We’ll meet them after we get a shower, we’re in no condition to be sociable.

Sonia and Klaus’s rig has the entire area to it’s self. We learned that Carol also owns this Camping area. Calypso lives in a little house on this property, too. We enjoyed a nice chat and catching up on their adventures. They were marooned in Guatemala by the big rain storm that followed Hurricane Wilma. Had to wait a few days before the local authority would allow them to cross a bridge that was weakened by the storm and flooding. They also enjoyed the “Night of the Dead”, in Valladolid. They’re going to Tulum then back to the north through Veracruz on their way to Texas. We may see them again? Made a date for dinner tonight.

Cat went on a quest, looking for a nice restaurant. I hit the keys of the computer.

We met Klaus and Sonia at 7:00 PM and walked to the Hotel Chichen Itza for a buffet dinner. Cat had found that it’s the only real restaurant open in Piste at this time.

The food was just okay but the conversation was fulfilling.

TV at Piramide is Spanish only so, early to bed. .

November 14, 2005
Wandering a Wonder of the World Chichen Itza

Hoping to get inside Chichen Itza we loaded the bikes and rode to the entry gate at 7:30 AM. The Guard at the parking lot gate wanted us to park the bikes under a tree. We couldn’t get the point across that we wanted to take them inside for pictures. Finally leaned them against a wall and I went to ask inside. The first guy I spoke with seemed doubtful but led me to another. He in turn listened, shook his head but said that we could talk with the Manager. She looked up from her paperwork, listened then asked how long it would take. I estimated a half hour. She said, “You must buy tickets”. Of course, and they’re good for all day, even into the evening when they have a sound and light show.

Bikes up the ramp, tickets and wrist bands then we pushed through the entry turnstiles and onto the grounds of El Castillo. It is wondrous, to stand where others lived, worked and built such a monument more tan 1,000 years ago. We met Emily & Kelvin from Hong Kong who agreed to take pictures for us. The sun is from behind the great pyramid so after a couple of shots we pushed around under the watchful eye of a Guard. More pics in the sun. They took shots of us and we returned the favor for them.

Bikes at Chichen Itza

Chichen Itza From Above

Back into Piste, we went directly to the Internet Shop which is also a restaurant. Another treat, pancakes and maple syrup. Isabelle & Jeff from Quebec talked with us as we ate. They’re going to Costa Rica where she’ll work as a Massage Therapist. She says that Jeff worked hard while she attended school so he’ll take it easy for a while. He told us that he has lots of projects in mind that will keep him busy.

A shower then I hit the Journal Pages again while Cat explored. She brought a roasted chicken back and we had another “on bed” picnic.

At 3:00 PM we walked out front and hailed a Taxi to take us back to Chichen Itza. The place really does share that feeling of mystery and intrigue we’ve experienced at So many of the other ruins visited along our route. El Castillo is more than just a building. It’s a time piece, too. The Mayan Calendar measures from the Vernal to the Autumnal Equinoxes. The shadows produced on it cast an illusion of the serpent ascending and descending on March 20-21 and September 21-22. They say that mobs of people also descend upon the place to witness this phenomenon. The calendar is represented by the 9 levels, 4 staircases with 91 steps and 52 panels. When you add the top platform the stairs represent 365 days. The 52 panels are weeks, of course.

The Sudden Death Playoff

Another area of extreme interest is the “Great Ball Court”. There are 8 courts here and other in most of the other cities of the Mayans. It’s flanked by temples at each end with walls on each side. There are stone rings hung high on the two walls. The name of the game seems to be to get the hard rubber ball through them. The players use bats and it’s said that when one team gets a ball through the ring the losing Captain, perhaps the whole team, are sacrificed. Put a whole new meaning on “Sudden Death Playoff”. .

Though there aren’t a lot of people here today, they all have to clap to experience the amazing acoustics in the court. We climbed El Castillo then wandered through The Warriors Temple also known as the Thousand Columns. There is also a Steam Bath or Sweat House. They close the park at 6:00 PM. We joined a parade of vendors carrying their packs out as we exited. During the Taxi ride back to Piste we decided to skip the Sound and Light Show.

Back to the Internet place for dinner. Poc Choc, thinly sliced pork with rice, beans and tortillas. Quite good.

November 15, 2005
Chichen Itza to Izamal
65 Kilometers

Breakfast at the Internet Café then as we checked out Carol told us an incredible story. She began by explaining the Mayan Memorial called Joe’s Temple in the garden. Joe was her Father, he died in his 80s. A strange way to go, he was allergic to Bee Stings. Sitting, sipping a Coke, he swallowed a Bee that had flown in. He was loved locally, he had been operating Hotel Piramid for 30 years. They held a Mayan Funeral for the man they called Grandfather, Joe.

Paint By Numbers?

That story in it’s self is amazing then she told us that her Dad, Joe, had been in the Movie Theatre Business years earlier. The posters he received to advertise films were black and white like the movies in those days. He numbered areas for different colors and his staff did the coloring. That evolved into a product known as “Paint By Numbers”! He took Paint By Numbers to market and it was a huge hit in the 1950s and 60s. Remember those canvases and how many we’ve all seen on the walls of Grandma houses?

Carol began suggesting that we would find a place to stay in Izamal just 65 Ks from here but the road was narrow. She felt the hazard would be offset because there’s much less traffic than on the main highway. She called a B&B that had been owned by a friend and reserved a room for us there.

The ride was easy, the road as she’d said, was narrow but almost no traffic. Most of Izamal’s buildings are painted gold. A very impressive sight as we cycled through the streets full of horse drawn carts. After asking several times we found the street of our B&B. Riding and looking we happened upon a couple, Gringos Rachel and Larry from Baltimore, Maryland. They were walking to a run down ruin right here on the street. They’re Honeymooning and staying at our B&B. They pointed it out then went on into the falling down Mayan Temple.

3 Wheeler

A ring of the bell at the gate and a gal appeared and led us to our room. The grounds of Hotel Macanche are very pleasant. The buildings mostly single story. Our room feels like a cottage. Hungry, we got the bikes inside then walked back to a Restaurant we’d passed on the way in. Tacos served in a local style, very good.

Back at our room, we found that there was no hot water. The gal fired up the heater but it will be an hour before warm showers. We walked into the Center, got a feel for the lay of the land and took pictures. The centerpiece is a beautiful Convent sporting the same golden color that has become the hallmark of Izamal. A couple of Plaza Parks enhance the small town feeling and there are more falling down ruins scattered everywhere.

Back home, we showered then relaxed and lounged until the dinner hour. Walking back into the village at dusk was a wonderful experience, the place takes on a golden glow as the sun sinks. We found a place across from the Convent and watched the golden hue and twinkling lights while enjoying good Mexican food.

Larry and Rachel told us of a Sound and Light Show tonight at the Convent. We watched for them as we watched our watch. The show starts at 8:30 PM. We’re tired, we didn’t see them and decided to forgo the show.

There’s no TV in our room, we lay back and surprisingly, were sleeping by the time the sound and lights was filling the air in town.

November 16, 2005
Izamal to Merida
70 Kilometers

Anxious to get going, we had the bikes out and ready by the time the gal opened the kitchen to prepare our included Breakfast. Emily and Alfred straggled in as we ate. They’re the new owners and Emily just returned from Seattle late last night. Alfred picked her up at the Airport so they’re both drowsy this morning. As we were pushing toward the gate Larry and Rachel joined us and we 6 posed for a photo in front of the sign for Hotel Macanche.

Rachel told us that they're going back to Merida this afternoon. She recommended Hotel Luz en Yucatan, where they were staying. It was one of the places we’d seen in the Lonely Planet so we told her we may see them there.

As is typical in the Yucatan, the ride was hot, flat and fast. Light traffic and they were courteous, even the 34 wheelers. Hungry, we stopped at Hacienda San Ildefanso, about 20 Ks out of Merida. Established in 1683, this was the Sisal center back then. Remember Sisal? The plant we first learned of in Africa that was used for making rope during the sailing ship days. As the sailing ship era ended the demand for rope waned and the Hacienda converted to a cattle ranch. The old buildings fell into disrepair until a brave local fellow bought them 20 years ago. He and his family have been constantly renovating and upgrading since that time. They recently completed converting the old Sisal spinning mill into a Convention and events center. Located as it is in the middle of nowhere, we were surprised to see the tables fill as we ate our lunch.

Merida is a large City. Most of the narrow streets have been converted to one-way and the traffic is hazardous for cycling. Asking and following our map, we made our way through the numbered and lettered grid of streets to Hotel Luz de Yucatan. The building, painted a light purple, stands out amongst the more traditional colors of the street. A young girl greeted our ring of the bell and told us of a vacancy. Cat looked at the room but was disappointed. It’s small and upstairs so we’ll have to leave the bikes in a storage room down. She decided to go exploring.

Another Hotel just next door was 1/3 the price but had only 3 local TV Stations. Since we’re staying for a couple of days we want a wider range of programs. (TV Snobs?) I stood in the shade while Cat went off down the street shopping Hotels. The young girl re-appeared and told me that they had a room on the ground floor and matched the price of the place next door. I deferred the decision until Cat’s return. .

An easy decision, Cat found that all the other nearby Hotels were fully booked. The room is more like a small apartment with hotplate, refrigerator and coffee maker. Just outside the door is a full kitchen that we also have use of. Without asking, we pushed the bikes into our oversized suite. Oh there are a couple of interesting features like the light switches are in the hallway, outside the room. But, all in all, it is pretty much perfect for us.

Cat found Larry and Rachel lounging by the pool. She also learned that there is a Costco here and we can take a bus to wine shop. She was like a kid in a candy store, walking around and comparing the layout and merchandise to her home away from home, the Oxnard Costco. We bought Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay, bananas, muffins and food to cook in our new kitchen. Too much to try to carry on the wild bus ride. They had to call then we had to wait about 30 minutes.

So, with a kitchen and food, we chose to eat in. Macaroni and cheese and roasted chicken. Very good. Hot showers, hot food, a Woody Allen movie and then, lights out.

November 17, 2005
Day Off in Merida

Breakfast just like back home. Juice and bananas then coffee and muffins. No Today show or CNN in English so we watched the local news in Spanish and tried to guess what they were talking about.

We found a nearby Lavanderia and left our very stinky cycling cloths. Also, an Internet Shop where we communicated with our World Wide Family of Friends. Sandwiches of left over chicken in the room and we made a date for dinner with Larry and Rachel.

The restaurant they chose was quite a walk. Through the main square and down side streets. They’ve eaten here before and liked it. We found the specialty that’s served at room temperature to be only so-so at best, at least according to our tastes. They served tiny margaritas at a grande price. In fact, the place is pretty touristy and pricey. However, the company, Rachel and Larry made the evening. Back through the night streets and plaza. A nice walk.

Caught a movie, Cat napped through part of it but as usual, I was hooked and watched until the bitter end, midnight.

November 18, 2005
Day 2 Off in Merida
Merida City Tour

Larry appeared at our door bearing a gift of Mexican Coffee. Rachel is feeling a bit of the Montezuma this morning. He sat, had a muffin and chatted. Our plan to see Merida on the tour bus together had to be scratched. We decided to go so walked to the corner and got a good seat. Elaine and Jordan are from Chicago. He works with The Hyatt Hotel and they have travel privileges. Almost like Honeymoon for them. Two other couples, one from Mexico City the other from the States but we didn’t get to talk much with them.

Lots of pictures of buildings and monuments. A good chance to get to know the city. A Burger King Chicken Sandwich lunch then I worked on the journal pages. Cat watched TV until dinner time then we walked to Corrleonis for Pizza. Our hostess, Madeline recommended the place and told us that we should look for the bicycle hanging in the doorway.

Drums & Monument

We took a seat under the bicycle, near the door. Great people watching and wonderful Pizza. It comes hot from the wood fired oven and is square in shape.

A little TV then off to dreamland.

November 19, 2005
Day 3 Off in Merida

Breakfast in, again. I hit the journal pages while Cat sought shoe repair. Another strap has pulled loose on her sandals. She walked to Mercado Central and found a guy that stitched them for 50 cents.

When she returned she also had a new haircut and convinced me to do the same. A little more walking then back to our home for more chicken sandwiches. Out again, we spent an hour at the Internet Café.

Take 3

Cat & Birds

Larry and Rachel brought us an appropriate gift, a stencil of a person on a Bicycle. We sipped wine together and enjoyed another hour of getting to know each other. Rachel is a Esthetician, manicures and facials etc. Larry works with Quest Diagnostics. Medical diagnostics. What a nice young couple just setting off on a life journey, together. As we chatted Madeline knocked and came bearing a gift, too. She gave us 100 Pesos ($10) for our breakfast tomorrow. The Lonely Planet had said that she would greet us with a beer. We missed that and we assume this is her gift in lieu. Much better for us as we don’t drink beer that often.

They’re cooking in, we decided to try Pancho’s. A Mexican Restaurant also recommended by Madeline. The place is pretty touristic, I had Lamb and it was wonderful, Cat had beef tacos and they were at best, okay.

Flaming Coffee

A combo was setting up to play Mexican music. We ducked out before they fired up. We walked past a church and watched a young bride kneeling at the Alter. Further down the street another band had set up. Too dark for a picture but a nice little Video. Then an old guy’s band. The place is full of entertainment.

Rainy Day Band

3 Old Guys

A little TV then lights out.

November 20, 2005
Merida to Calkini
85 Kilometers

The sounds of a Parade pulled us form our sleep at 6:30 AM. We dressed quickly and went out to see the commotion. Larry and Rachel were there, too. We couldn’t figure out what the occasion was but there are hundreds of young people, students with banners, parading through the streets.

Bikes loaded, we pushed to the curb and got pictures with Larry and Rachel then set off on a quest for breakfast. The Café Havana had a seat near the window. We leaned the bikes and took the view seat. A full breakfast of eggs, bacon, juice, toast and coffee and it all fit inside Madeline’s gift.

The crowds remain thick, we had to walk the bikes through them. Even a TV Crew there filming the event. An interesting thing learned on the tour, there are street signs with animal pictures. The Spaniards began teaching Mayans Spanish by using the image of birds or animals with the written word.

Love a Parade

It was 9:30 by the time we got to the Highway. For the sake of speed we took the Autopista. It’s not very picturesque and those big 34 wheeler trucks don’t add much to the décor. It is flat and fast. There are no stores or service stations, our lunch break in the shade of an over pass consisted of Gatorade and a can of meat. Not very good but sustenance to carry us into the little town of Calkini.

Rolling in at 5:00 PM, the nice guy there told us that we’d have hot water in an hour. The place is being refurbished and is definitely a Sexo Hotel. The best news, we’re the only guests. We decided to walk to the only Restaurant in Calkini and get a couple of beers. Once there, we were faced with a dilemma, they close at 6:00, so we had our beers then ordered food, Mexican food, of course. Turned out to be very good, Poc Choc again, but they were in a hurry to go home and pressed us to finish.

Our friend had the hot water ready, we showered then found that one of the 3 TV Stations was running an old Woody Allen Movie. Another evening with Woody but it kept us from having to look at the ceiling, trying to stay awake until at least 9:00 PM.

November 21, 2005
Calkini to Campeche
90 Kilometers

It was easy to get up early. Our friend was there and suggested we might find breakfast about 5 Ks down the road. The place looks pretty questionable but the young guy there whipped up scrambled eggs with ham and cheese, beans and homemade tortillas. Very fulfilling.

We cranked out the 90 Ks in record time. Had to turn off the Autopista and roll about 10 Ks on a narrow road until we found the beginning of the Malecon. A beautiful ocean front bike path.

A Movie Star?

Our first choice, Hotel Ocean View, had no rooms. They called Hotel del Paseo, they had rooms from 520 Pesos. As the Desk Clerk called and booked us the Bellmen surrounded Cat and the bikes in the driveway. Nervous at first she got a laugh when one who spoke English told her that they think I’m a movie star from California. To Cat a laughing matter, to the old cyclist a real ego boost!

With only verbal directions we wondered about a bit then realized that we’d passed the entry and were at the back door. Up the stairs and we pushed directly into the Lobby. They had us leave the bikes with bags there. We had to carry the necessary bags up 2 flights as they had no elevator.

The little Restaurant here had a nice sandwich. As we ate the wind came up. By the time we finished it was blowing a hurricane outside.

We settled in, Cat watched TV and wrote in her journal. I set up the computer and worked on the journal.

It felt so good to be in and out of the wind that we ordered room service. They don’t have CNN but the cable does offer several stations with English for Cat to flick back and forth to.

November 22, 2005
A Day in Campeche

Breakfast at the little Café across from the Lobby then we walked around, looking for a Laundry. Elva Maria is second generation in the Laundry Business. He parents started the shop in 1965. She recently moved it and we had to ask and, and ask to find her. Nice gal, fun to talk with.

Our walk to Fort San Miguel was great, the sun is shining and it’s a perfect day for Photos. Well it was perfect until the camera’s battery ran down. We had to return to the Hotel to get another. Back into the old Center of Campeche and we had lunch. We’ve seen a picture of another so set off in search of it. The walk became difficult as we neared the hill. Then a fellow told us that it is still a long way, up and over the top. Walking in our sandals, we were tiring so called off the hunt.

Sam’s Club is off to the right as we returned. Making our way through fields and around Construction, we found the entry but that was as far as we could go. They refused to give us a Guest Pass, wanted us to join? We passed, walked across the street and found reasonably good wine in a Super market.

Tired of walking, we took a Taxi back to the Hotel. The early evening watching TV then, Room Service, again.

November 23, 2005
Campeche to Champoton
74 Kilometers

American Breakfast except bacon instead of hamburger. A struggle down the stairs then we loaded the bikes in the Lobby. Haven’t mentioned but they have Internet Access so we checked in one last time then set off.

The ride here is down the bright and sunny Malecon, past the buildings that make up the little skyline of Campeche. It must have been 8 Ks then, as all things must, it came to an abrupt end. The road is narrow and hilly. It was up and over then back to our shoreline ride. Past fishing villages then off the coast.

We stopped for lunch at a local food stand. The guy was anxious to please. He told us he had beef tacos that turned out to be hamburger but were good. As we ate we watched a big Tom Turkey strutting his stuff across the street. Lucky guy, to have been born here rather than further north. He would probably be frozen and wrapped in plastic there.

Back on the coast, which reminds us of cycling in Santa Barbara County. Ups and downs then back to water level and flat, we moved along and got into Champoton by 3:00 PM. Cycling through, we decided that the Recommended Hotel looked pretty seedy. A guy spoke to us and confirmed that there is another place on the other end of town. We headed there.

Hotel Venezia is very basic but there are a couple of Restaurants nearby. We pulled the bikes up 5 stairs and into a Motel atmosphere. They did allow them in the room. I went out back and found a piece of aluminum to block the window closed. They have an Internet but it closed, almost in our faces. They said that they’d open again at 7:00 PM.

Showered, we went searching for food. The large places across the street were both closed? We went next door to a little Café and found enough food to fill the void from today’s ride. Fried fish fresh from the Gulf, rice and French fries. Good but greasy.

Though the Internet Café was open, they were booked. Lots of students doing school work, we assumed. The room does have TV but only a few stations. After watching and working on our Spanish, we shut it down and hit the sack early.

November 24, 2005
Champoton to Sabancuy
62 Kilometers
Thanksgiving Day

Breakfast back at the same little Café. No Bacon or Ham, Chorizo w/scrambled. The owner went to market for milk and juice. Fresh juice came in a plastic bag. Coffee, hot milk and Folgers Crystals. There’s a plaque in the corner telling of the first Spanish landing here in 1517. The Mayans gave them water and told them to leave. When they refused the leader, Moch-Cuouh ordered his men to attack. They did with a vengeance and killed the entire crew. It wasn’t until after Moch-Cuouh’s death in 1540 that the Spaniards finally were able to establish a settlement they called Villa de San Francisco de Campeche.

Cat slipped across and got pictures of the fresh Catch of the Day coming in from the morning sea. It’s cool, almost cold this morning.

Thankful on Thanksgiving Day

The road is completely flat and along the Gulf Coast. This is a wonderful Thanksgiving surprise for us. Rolling fast on the flat, we stopped at a restaurant for soft drinks. It’s a Bus Stop, and there’s a bus load of French and German tourists. Some are swimming in the ocean, some in a pool. Most are just sitting and smoking. So we have plenty to celebrate, the flat road, the fact that we won’t have to climb aboard the smoker’s bus and we’re feeling healthy on this sunny Thanksgiving Day.

Yesterday we saw Helicopters. Today there are more. Then a fleet of several Mexican Navy Ships made arcing curves in formation on the glistening waters of the Gulf. We have a wonderful wide shoulder and the sun. Rivers pass under the road and spill red water out to sea. A fisherman confirmed that this same condition I’d seen in Nova Scotia when cycling there in 1988. Iron ore rusts and makes the water look almost blood red.

A strange tree with a Palm Tree growing in it was god for a picture. Wild Cotton grows along the road. Lots of lots with new homes being built. It brings back memories of the Oxnard beach in the hot market days.  

A car pulled past and the driver shouted praises then gave us a big thumbs up. Moving ahead a few hundred yards, he pulled over. Wary, we watched his hands as he emerged. Something in his right, maybe a camera? No, not a camera and just as we were getting ready for a confrontation we saw, bananas. The little tasty ones. Manuel Jesus is a cyclist. He kept repeating, “Potassium, good for you”. He’s from Merida going to Ciudad del Carmen to visit his brother. He told us that he rode his bicycle from Merida to Mexico City when he was 14 years old. What a nice person. Now we’re Thankful for Manuel Jesus, too.

Sabancuy lies off the Highway across the lagoon. We found the only Hotel in town and it wasn’t bad. There’s a little Taco Stand next door, the gals there made us an assortment of their stock in trade. Very tasty and of course we were very Thankful!

Then the quest for wine. Into every store only to get a “no”. Then we did find a bottle of Spanish white. They did have an Internet Shop so we checked messages.

Dinner in the Hotel diner. The owner came in, took our order then went back to cook. Well, we heard the micro wave dinging and he returned shortly with thin pounded steak and fries. The meat was boney and tough. The fries were tough but represented food and we needed food. We ordered another plate. When he returned with them he had another piece of steak. He said something like, “Meat is small”. We accepted. Not much of a Thanksgiving feast yet we were thankful.

No English language TV so it was early to bed. We’re the only guests tonight.

November 25, 2005
Sabancuy to Ciudad del Carmen
81 Kilometers

Surprised, when Cat peaked out the window to see what the commotion was the parking lot was full. Several pick-up trucks pulling boats. Early to rise fishermen looking for the worm. By the time we dressed and headed to the restaurant they were all pulling out. Breakfast at the Hotel was much better than dinner had been. Typical scrambled eggs with ham, beans and tortillas.

The water on the coast is sea foam green. The road continues flat and we are riding fast. Fishermen stand along the road holding up the catch of the day hoping to catch a passing motorist. Rock fingerlings that jut out protecting the coast form erosion are covered with Pelicans. The bridge to the Island is 3 ¼ Ks long. (A little over 2 miles) There is a low guardrail but it makes us feel like an easy trip to the water below if the wind gusts catch us.

Welcome Choppers

Ciudad del Carmen is larger than we thought. The streets became typical city traffic as well as the typical cobblestone deterrent. We followed signs to the Holiday Inn and though it’s more than our budget, we need a really nice place for a much needed rest. Settled in I hit the computer keys and Cat hit KFC for chicken sandwiches. Lunch in then Cat was back out to the Mall.

She was astounded by the size and complexity of the Mall and the nearby Marketplace. It was almost dinner time when she returned. Feeling like a shut in, I walked to the nearby Pizza place. We again dined on the bed and enjoyed a full range of English language TV. A full stomach and as much CNN as we could stand then off to sleep.

November 26, 2005
A Restful Day in Carmen

Up early we took a walk looking for breakfast. The only choice at this hour is Burger King. Hot cakes, juice and coffee. Not cheap but really felt like home. There are 3 guys sitting, speaking English, nearby. We had to ask. They’re from Texas, working on the Oil Platforms off the coast here.

There’s water standing in the street, we had to jump back several times as cars and buses passed to keep from being splashed. At first we thought it was from a couple of industrious guys washing cars but the sheer volume was too great. Then we saw the problem, a plugged drain. They had a guy in it, up to his neck. He would take deep breaths then dive down and come back up with hands full of the gunk that was impeding the flow. We’re hoping he was earning hazardous duty pay. The sludge looked like it could be hazardous when applied to human skin.

I did the shut in again, Cat went out shopping then came back and left again with an arm load of laundry. We’re luxuriating, thinking about how life will be when we get back to normal? IN a sense, this is normal. Two nights in th