Over the Mountains, through the pines and cold thin air that seem so not Mexican. Then, out onto the desert and the real Mexico. The people have been wonderful. We feel so at home and so safe. Not one incident or even a tense moment. Well there were tense moments about the roads and traffic. In fact these moments have us changing plans a couple of times. In this issue of our journal you can take a ride in a yacht, see a whale then ride the famous Train up to the Copper Canyon. And, you’ll meet lots of new friends along the way. So, you READ, we RIDE!

SEE YA IN SAN DIEGO!

Mexico City to Los Moshis, Mexico
December 19, 2005 to January 29, 2006

December 19, 2005
Bus Ride to Toluca

Slow start, Last wonderful Breakfast Buffet. So cold on the deck that everyone took seating inside. We had to wait. We called Salvador but he doesn’t do short runs in his car. With bikes and bags in the lobby we fought the Taxi drivers but they wouldn’t take us and our things in one car. So, the Hotel arranged a van.

While waiting we struck up a conversation with Terry & Kathy. They’re from Waterloo, Ontario, Canada and here in Mexico for 3 months. Escaping the cold, they’ll take a bus out this morning for Acapulco. They’ve rented a house there.

One of the guys from the Hotel shared our expensive ride to the bus station. Good deal for him. Got a man with hand truck to take bags and one bike I carried the other. My right arm is really getting worse. That darned torn rotator cuff really acts up in the cold and its cold here again, today.

It was right at 12:00 noon when we got to the counter. The lady hurriedly wrote out the ticket and had us hustle to make the bus. We threw the bikes and bags under, got in and seated just as the driver put her in reverse and began his trip.

Funny, we sat on the sunny side and Cat who had been shivering began to sweat. They have no AC and the gal in front of us closed the window. We moved across the aisle and opened ours. The cool air felt good.

Its only 64 Ks from Mexico City to Toluca but the trip took 1 ½ hours. Traffic, the traffic Cat has dreaded and the reason for our bus ride, lived up to its reputation. It was bumper to bumper until we got to the Autopista. Then, a pleasant ride through hills covered with pines and little settlements. It’s almost all City along the road, to Toluca like driving from LA to Oxnard on the Freeway with the exception of those few pines.

Once in Toluca it was bumper to bumper buses. It took 20 minutes to slowly wiggle through the mess. The bus dropped us, bag and baggage, at the far end of the Station. The driver pointed to the traffic jam in the bus bays and indicated he was backing out.

Cat went searching for info and a Stevedore. I began slowly moving our things taking 2 bags down the walkway then back a couple times for more, then bikes. By the time she returned without help I had progressed 2/3s of the way. She had visited the nearby Hotel and found that it was not too good. In fact they recommended that we go into the Center as it will be easier to get out on the bikes, tomorrow. She didn’t see any of the fellows with carts? We did one more move then I gave up and went looking for help.

I got a guy, thankfully he was ambitious and insisted on taking all bags and both bikes. Then the hassle with Taxi Drivers. They ganged up on us and insisted that we’d have to take 2 cars at a cost of 100 Pesos, $10 for a 4 Ks ride? We walked away and had our fellow follow. He unloaded at a wide spot just as a Taxi pulled in. He got out, looked at our baggage and said, “Hotel San Francisco, si, Cinco Pesos”. Nice guy, he even helped get the bikes in the trunk and bags in his back seat. Cat and I sat together in the front passenger seat. Cramped, yes, but we felt that we’d beaten them at their own game.

Another hassle, the girl says that the rooms are 600 Pesos, our Guide Book says 490. She looks at it and says, “Esta 2004”. We argue, Cat looks at the room and a Jr. Suite. The room is too small for the bikes. She now wants 700 Pesos. I tried to bargain, she dropped to 680 and held. I tried to use the book again, she looked over at a guy hovering nearby. I suggested that we should pay 600 for the larger room, he nodded she started filling out the paperwork.

Have to take the bikes up 6 floors on their back wheels but the room is quite nice. A genuine King Size bed. It is now 2:30 PM and we’re hungry. I’m really tired, too. May be the altitude? It is 2,600 meters here, or about 8,500 feet. I found CNN in English but there’s no picture? An old amphibious passenger plane bound for Bimini has crashed and that’s all they’re reporting. Oh they do have a little on our Pres. Bush and his spying on US Citizens but just debate and accusations. Wonder how they’ll treat us once our Cuba story hits the Internet?

Cat let me rest while she went for food. She came back and I was dozing. We ate a huge hamburger, well not exactly a hamburger, it had a hamburger paddy and ham and hot dogs and cheese and tomatoes. Really great tasting and so big we couldn’t finish them. Definitely headed for a case of heartburn! .

We showered as the sun set and the cold really set in. Cat is shivering again. The hot shower helped.

We went to the Restaurant. It’s a high glass roof area that you can see from the glass elevator as you descend. Once there, it is cold as a Well Diggers You Know What. We looked at the menu, thinking soup. The waiter suggested the specialty, a rice and veggie number. He even agreed to bring it to the room. We went back up and settled into the TV and a movie.

As promised, the soup was great and the movie was okay. We both dozed off, I awoke at 11:00 PM, took Cats glasses off and turned off the lights.

December 20, 2005
Taluca to Villa Victoria
51 Kilometers
Ramon’s Pickup to San Felipe 63 Kilometers

Breakfast in the cold Restaurant. Pretty good food. Down the elevator one bike at a time, pay the bill and out the door into the cold by 9:30 AM. First piece of business, find the highway. A guy unloading a truck told us to go 2 blocks then left. At 2 blocks we asked a Policeman and he said that we should keep going up to the Autopista. We do like the idea but know that there are no stops and we can’t make the distance. So, we took the left and cycled past the Square. As I shot a photo of the Cathedral I found the key to our Hotel room in my pocket. Darn, we decided to go on and call them.

Strange, the people at the Hotel told us to keep the key? We think we’ll have to keep an eye on the credit card statement to make sure that they didn’t charge us for it.

Onward, and it’s cold. We have our sweats and regular pants on along with short sleeve and long sleeve t-shirts. Our long sleeve dress shirts and our jackets. Cat even had to put her rain jacket on for a while. We look like bums but looks mean little when you’re cold.

The road is hilly and narrow road. A truck followed closely by a bus ran us off, into the grass and rocks. Dangerous, we cycled into Villa Victoria and had a soft drink. The woman there tells us that the road ahead remains narrow, hilly and dangerous. Well that’s what we think she was trying to say? We pushed across and tried to flag a bus down. The driver indicated that they could take our bikes but we would need to take them apart. As we stood contemplating our options a guy called out, “Do you need help”?

Ramon is from Chicago, back visiting his family here. He and his wife and 2 year old daughter drove down. He has a pickup truck and offered to drive us over the hill. He too says that we shouldn’t cycle. He agreed to take us for enough to cover his fuel cost. We bought in!

Ramon is one of the lucky Mexicans, his Mother is from here in Michoacan State. His Dad was born in the USA. He and most of his family live and work in Chicago. He tries to get his 1 month vacation every year at this time to escape the cold. In fact he and his wife have 2 pickup trucks. They drive them down, sell them for a profit and fly back home. Great idea and it pays for the trip.

Ramon pulled up in Zitacuaro at the tourist office. I went in with him and listened as he spoke with the young girl. She recommended a Hotel 9 Ks down the road in San Felipe. There are Hotels in Zitacuaro but Ramon says that they’re not very nice. He sort of indicated that they might be party places, you know, places where women sell their selves. So we passed through and on through and to the western outskirts of San Felipe.

Ramon came inside and translated. The Monarch Inn does have a room at 450 Pesos. It seemed high but they wouldn’t negotiate and I think Ramon was tiring of us. So, we off loaded the bikes, paid up and watched as he waved goodbye. A very nice guy.

The sun set and cold set in. We were freezing. They don’t have any heat, not even a space heater. Then the really bad news, no hot water. I stormed to the front desk and complained. The Clerk said that they would start the heater and we’d have hot in 10 minutes. We waited, no hot. Another trip to the desk and this time he came clean. They had run out of gas and have sent someone to get some. We had to wait until after 8:00 PM.

After showering we had a glass of wine and I went to see if they had heat in the Restaurant. No! So, we ordered dinner in the room. The steam from the shower and our body heat was bringing the room to bearable. The food was great, Cat ate while under the covers. A couple of Comedies on TV and it was lights out. Time to huddle.

December 21, 2005
San Felipe to Hidalgo
50 Kilometers

Though we awoke at 6:30 AM it was still dark out. We lay in and watched TV until the sun began to stream in at 7:30. It is actually freezing out. The wet sidewalk is glassy looking.

Chatted with Werner from Germany as we ate breakfast in the cold dining room. He’s here trying to escape the cold and driving all of Mexico. He just kept saying that Mexico is a “Huge Place”. He’s comparing it to Germany but we agree. This is a big country and we’re seeing a lot of it from our bicycle seats. Today he will head toward Cancun. We didn’t try to tell him how long it’s taken us to get here but did wonder at the speed of his travel. Does he see anything? Is he enjoying his rapid paced journey or just trying to get through it? Hey, he is traveling and it may be the kind of travel that he likes.

Pushing out of the drive at our now usual 9:30 AM departure we were pleased to find a shoulder marked with the protective white line. Decked out in most of our clothing, we rode up into more pine forests. They didn’t last long, the green turned brown and we’re back in a desert complete with Joshua Trees. There must be an abundance of ground water in the valley because it is being farmed. However the surrounding hills remain arid and brown.

Pushing out of the drive we were pleased to find a shoulder marked with the protective white line. Decked out in most of our clothing, we rode up into more pine forests. They didn’t last long, the green turned brown and we’re back in a desert complete with Joshua Trees. There must be an abundance of ground water in the valley because it is being farmed. However the surrounding hills remain arid and brown.

Banditos? A Change of Plans!

Stopped for hamburgers and a guy here warned us that the road ahead to Morelia is mountainous, narrow and there are Banditos lurking along it. That was all Cat needed to hear, that and the fact that there’s no place to stay along the route. No service stations, no restaurants and most of all, no Policia to ward off the bad guys. So, we will alter our plan and go north to Zinapecuaro then take the Autopisto.

Ciudad de Hidalgo is close by, we cycled in and stopped at the Super Mercado for water and wine. The Clerk there told us that the best place to stay is Hotel Romo. Its 2 blocks then off to the right.

The room’s on the 3rd floor. They had us leave the bikes in the garage behind a partition. They guarantee that they’ll be safe. Carrying the bags was real work. Again, no heat in the room. We did get a hot shower.

An Invitation From David & Eileen

There’s an Internet Cafe nearby. David and Eileen, friends from a bike trip I took in 1986 have found us on the Internet and invited us to come stay with them for Christmas. That really sounds good but we estimate the best we can do is December 26. Eileen e-mailed back and pressed for us to catch a ride or they will come pick us up so that we will be with them at Christmas. I weakened, and e-mailed that we’d be there one way or the other.

The Restaurant at Hotel Romo is closed? We had to go out to find dinner. The girl recommended La Estancia, 3 blocks away. It was so cold walking that Cat almost lost her appetite. Good food but small portions.

December 22, 2005
Hildago to Zinapecuaro
61 Kilometers

Met our first California License plate in Mexico, a family from Salinas here on vacation. They have family living here and they want to see the butterflies. Annual migration of the Monarchs is in full swing. We will miss them even though they’ve come from as far away as Michigan. Some of them do come south through California every year, too.

The morning is an up and over experience in hills. It has been so cold and we have no cold weather clothing so we have been layering up with most of the cloths we have. Cat puts her sweat pants on over her bike shorts. I have my old raggedy cargo pants with the legs zipped on. We both wear long sleeve t-shirts over our cycling jerseys and our wind breakers on top of that. Not cozy warm but it keeps the chills away until the sun hits high enough to drive the temp up to tolerable. Not the best cycling weather but good for the pine trees. Then, we begin disrobing, must be an interesting sight to passing motorists.

Stopped at a little store for food, they aren’t cooking to day so I had raspberry cookies and Cat ate her first chocolate cupcakes in decades. The store owner spoke English, he had lived and worked in the States for 6 years.

From there it was a down hill run toward the Laguna de Cuitzeo to the cross road that angles off to the west toward Morelia. There, it became an 8 or 9 K up and down into Zinapecuaro.

Asking on the street, we were directed to Hotel Casa Del Sol. A wonderful looking place on the exterior and the common areas are decorated in Mexican beauty. The girl says they have hot water and it’s only 250 Pesos. The problem, the room is on the 3rd floor again. So we lugged and tugged, then stored the bikes in the rear laundry room.

We must have run 20 gallons of water waiting for the hot to reach us. Finally I went down the 3 flights and complained. The girl went to the rooftop, lit the water heater and promised hot in Cinco Minutos. 5, 10, 15 minutes, no hot? I got her again, I went with her but we couldn’t make the water heater fire up? Maybe out of gas?

She suggested moving to a different room but the only one we could find with warm water had 2 double beds and she wanted 450 Pesos. It was getting late, we decided to skip the shower. Asking her to call for Pizza, she came back and told us that the Pizza place was closed.

We set off looking for a restaurant and found the Pizza place with doors open and a line of people waiting for piping hot Pizza. I checked Interne while Cat stood in the line and got our Pizza. We took it back to the room and once again, it was dinner was an under covers affair.

December 23, 2005
Zinapecuaro to La Barca
52 Kilometers on Bike
150 Kilometers in the Policia Pickup Truck.

Breakfast at a small Café as the town began to wake up. A heavily armed group of Policia came by looking more like Rebels than the Law.

An 8 Ks climb out of town, even had to push some of it. Our legs were shaky and we were tired by the time we topped out. The Autopista isn’t flat as its been described but rather a continuous flow of ups and downs even though we’re along the shore of the Laguna de Cuitzeo. It too was a struggle. We stopped at 2:00 PM with only 54 of the expected 103 Ks completed.

The La Barca Express

We’re both very tired. We sat in the sun and ate our left over pizza with a Gatorade. We know that we will have to take a bus or catch a ride in order to make it to David and Eileen’s in Ajijic by Christmas day. I decided that this would be a good time to do just that. Cat removed water bottles and sacked them with the helmets while I took the handlebar bags off. The first pickup along was a white Policia truck. The pulled up, asked our need then agreed to let us throw the bikes on top of their load of fencing wire and ride with them to La Barca.

We got the bikes on top the fencing then the 4 of us, Jose the driver and Jorge the Commandante, all jammed into the cab. Cat sat on my lap, the cab is so small that her head hit the top every time Jose hit a bump. He drove way over the speed limit like only a Cop can, at times hitting 150 Ks per hour. (93 MPH). Hated the speed but it did make the discomfort time less. The 150 Ks didn’t exactly fly by but we were flying.

They dropped us at the outskirts of La Barca near a great looking Hotel. Unfortunately the Hotel Restaurant is closed and they have no Internet. So, we cycled on into the Center.

The nice girl there had mentioned Hotel Santa Monica. It looks like a 1950s Motel. They have a room in fact every room seems to be available. The sign tells us that they have a special, Monday through Friday the room with breakfast for 2 people is only 200 Pesos. ($20) Of course the recommend a room for 270 and say that on Friday they don’t include breakfast because that will be Saturday. Cat looked at the Bait Room and we did as they suggested, took the one for 270. Strange, they don’t have a key, they want us to lock the room when we go to dinner then come to them and they’ll unlock when we return.

A quiet, heavy set, effeminate guy came when we complained that the water was cold. He told us to wait 5 minutes. We did and lo, the water was hot and the shower very refreshing.

Roasted Garbanzos

Walking to town, we looked for a sit down restaurant. We did find an Internet shop to send and receive from. A guy on the corner was selling hot green pods. We asked, they explained that they’re Garbanzo Beans. He insisted that we take a bag full of them. They reminded us of The soy beans, Adamame, that they serve in Japanese Restaurants.

No real restaurant, several recommended the little stand on the corner and a seat on the curb. We’d seen a little store front so returned and found a Sister and Brother operating out of a trailer stand inside the little room. Good tacos, we tried several kinds. 

Walked back in the dark street with no fear. Mexico is an easy place to like. .

December 24, 2005
La Barca to Ajijic
50 Kilometers on Bike
50 Ks with David in his ‘84’ Ford

Up and out but cold as heck. The road remains wide with a shoulder but we’ve come back to steeper hills. Trundling along we stopped and called to let David and Eileen know that we feel we will ride right up to their door. Eileen surprised us, David is already on the way to meet us. Slightly disappointed we rode on then into hills and began to wonder where the heck he was. We really are tired. The upside of the ride is that we got our first sighting of Lake Chapala.

Cat yelled, “A brown Ford pickup just passed”. Then it pulled over and there was David, looking as young as ever though almost 20 years have passed since last seeing him. We loaded the bikes and caught up on each other as he drove to Ajijic. We did stop at a store and pick up a nice bottle of Chilean white to prime the celebration tonight.

It's David

It was old home week at David and Eileen’s new home. They are so welcoming and genuinely happy to see us, to meet Cat and to make us feel at home.

Hungry, we went to a local favorite Super Burrito, for Burritos and Quesadillas then back to fantastic, hot showers.

A quiet afternoon, exploring each others pasts then David cooked spaghetti for dinner. Really feels like home with home cookin’.

Our Hosts are going to an annual event and invited us along. The locals put on living Nativity Scenes. It was a cold night but we got passed that and thoroughly enjoyed being there. A very local Christmas festivity.

On the walk back we stopped into David and Eileen’s old home. It’s For Sale now and they wanted to straighten it up for a showing. A unique place, we must come back during day light. Then a wonderful piece of wall art caught my attention, Pacha Mama.

The bed in the guest room is soft and inviting. The duvet is necessary. Though it’s warmer during the day here, the night air has a chilling bite to it.

Sunday, December 25, 2005
Christmas Day

The joy of a beautiful sunrise on this Christmas day. I used to love to see sunsets but now its sunrises. Sort of ghoulish but the wonder of them makes me wonder how many more I’ll see. The lawn was crunchy, I thought it was frost? David and Eileen swear that it only got down to 50 degrees.

Breakfast of fruit, toast and coffee. Don’t want to complain but they only drink Decaf and we need that little caffeine kick in the morning.

Party Time, they have guests coming for late lunch so we got involved with the cleaning and preparations. I wiped the patio chairs clean then swept the deck. Cat helped with dishes and cooking.

Guests began to arrive at 2:00 PM. It was cool and a tiny wind from the west enhanced the slight chill. Divided into two tables, we only got the chance to meet and talk with the couples at our table. All are ex-pats, from the states or England, most retired and living here full time.

Holiday Party

Big cleanup then we snacked on leftovers.

David and Eileen have unlimited Internet Access, good for us. Cat spent time reviewing and answering.

They also have unlimited telephone access via Internet to the US. We called Cat’s Mom and Dad, Daughter Steph and the grandkids. A very good Christmas gift for them.

December 26, 2005
A Long Walk Around Ajijic

Up early, I was privileged to enjoy yet another wonderful sunrise. Chef David made waffles and real coffee. Yes, tired of the near coffee, the decaf, we added a bag of real fresh ground coffee to their cupboard. Breakfast is a good time to spend talking, reminiscing.

David was off to do volunteer work at the Little Theatre. We walked with Eileen, into Ajijic and took a tour of their other home. When they first found Ajijic they wanted to live in town, surrounded with the local people and lifestyle. The house is a wonderful Mexican Courtyard style residence. It is right in the middle of town. Eileen told us that the charm of life here was tainted at first by a neighbor’s pesky rooster that crowed incessantly then, the vacant building next door got a new tenant. So they now had a Rooster that started crowing at 3:00 AM and a Bar that offered the good life until 3:00 AM every night.

The house is really well designed and decorated. Tile work of Mexican craftsmen in bright colors. Every room looks out onto the Courtyard. Also, an outside stairway leads to a little crows nest seating area and another to a studio. A true artist’s home. Too bad about the Rooster and Bar. They had avoided the typical Gringo houses when searching but now realized that there is value in a fenced community with Covenants and Conditions on the Title that disallow keeping chickens or running a bar. Eileen picked up oranges form the tree and tidied up the place, they’re offering it for sale and their Agent is holding Open House this afternoon.

It’s a 40 minute walk down the road, 40 minutes to the Theatre. I took photos and we enjoyed just soaking up the local scene as we sauntered. David was there with another guy working on the set for the upcoming production, The Secret Affairs of Mildred Wild. .

The 4 of us rode back into Ajijic and enjoyed lunch together. Garlic shrimp for Cat and broiled fish for me. Eileen has just started a diet so her meal was pretty sparse. David had meat.

The Pueblo Ajijic sort of reminds us of Ojai, California. An artsy town where horses can still be seen trotting down the main street. And, the people are so friendly, both Gringos and locals. We are beginning to think that Gringos out number locals 2 to 1? 

More Internet then we called several of our family members. A real surprise for them. Especially Cat’s Mom and our adopted Mom, Celeste in Scottsdale, Arizona. The Grandkids were sort of detached, playing with their Christmas gifts? Patrick did spend quite a bit of time chatting with me. He is the middle child and definitely the gifted one. He’s in the GATE program at school. Timothy who was only 10 years old when we left now speaks in a man's baritone voice. Aubrie chattered about her friends and Christmas presents then turned the phone over to Steph. The little family is growing up. When we hung up we vowed to spend more time whit them when we get back.

David led the way, we walked to a Taqueria and loaded up on Tacos and Quesadillas. Carried them back up the hill and sat outside as the sun set in the west. Eileen worked around us sticking with her diet. We gorged ourselves on Mexican Food, the REAL THING.

December 27, 2005
Pat & Cat’s 8th Wedding Anniversary
A Lazy Day at David & Eileen’s

A leisurely breakfast and table talk. These few days with David and Eileen have been extremely relaxing for us. Aside from the Cold mornings and evenings that keep Cat wrapped in a blanket it’s been a truly Joyous Holiday Season for us. And now, we celebrate 8 years of wedded bliss with them.

I spent time playing catch up on the journal pages. Cat worked on out address list. Time passes so quickly. We had lunch near the pool. The sun was almost too warm. The food, too was almost too good. The company, well that goes with out saying.

The photos of the old house were so interesting that I took time photographing the interior of the house. They still have ongoing projects like the guest bathroom that’s in the midst of installation of tile, a new sink and hardware. Today Chuy, their gardener and handyman, is hanging new ceramic exterior lights. He has also been scraping and painting the wrought iron railings. Seemingly a never ending job which is good for Chuy and his family.

Cat and I went walking into town to check on the time and cost of the bus to Guadalajara. Amazing, the buses leave hourly and the cost is only 35 Pesos ($3.50 US) just as David had thought. We sought out the bakery and bought 3 small cakes, Carrot, Apple and German Chocolate for our Anniversary Celebration. Peter, the owner of the shop became interested in the map on Cat’s jacket and we talked about travel. He and his wife own 3 shops here. They started making and selling jewelry on the sidewalk then expanded to a small shop that served sandwiches. Business is good but he’s beginning to dream of getting away. They’ve traveled in India and he wants to walk across the entire Sub-Continent. Sounds like a tough trip to us. He thinks they’ll be ready to get out of business and into the adventure in about 5 years. We told him that we’d dreamed of our Odyssey for several years before actually setting off.

Oh, lest we forget, we also picked up a couple of bottles of Chardonnay.

Eileen had a bottle of Champagne to start the evening. We toasted to our continued happiness, long loves and lives for the 4 of us. They insisted on taking us out to dinner at one of their favorite places, Enrique’s.

A Double Anniversary Celebration

Very good food and terrific conversation with wonderful friends. A couple we’d met at the Christmas Party, Rob and Patsi from San Diego were seated nearby. As they were leaving they mentioned that today is their Anniversary. Imagine, 2 couples with the same Anniversary but the real uniqueness isn’t just in the day but the years, too. Our weddings were on the same day in 1979, 8 years ago, today.

They’re extreme tennis players and when Eileen asked about his health we learned we had another event in the past that links us. Rob, like Cat, has had a heart attack. And like Cat, he didn’t let his slow him down, either. He was back on the Tennis Court as soon as his Doctor allowed.

December 28, 2005
Headed for Guad, Lori & Dave

Breakfast with David and Eileen then we loaded clothing and essentials into the black bag usually mounted on the rear of Cat’s bike and walked down into Ajijic Pueblo. The bus ride costs 35 pesos each. (About $3.50) We sat in the Restaurant across from the tiny Autobus Station and ate lunch. Watched the very skillful proprietress work the tables. She sat with a guy (we learned he was 78 years young) and talked with him as though he was her Father, even took a piece of food off his plate to taste. He told us that he’s been living here 19 years, Used to go back home every year but this is home now, he hasn’t been to the States for more than 3 years.

Decided that since we have the time we would take a taxi to the Super Mini and buy wine for tonight. Amazing how we can sometimes justify a $3.00 Taxi ride when wine is involved. The bus stops there, too. Cat made the trip to the store as I guarded our bags and watched for the bus.

The 2:30PM departure arrived at the stop at 2:35 and we were off to Guadalajara. Clinging to the lake shore, it first backtracks to Chapala then veers off to the left into the mountains. The scenery is all desert. Beautiful homes cling to the cliffs above. It’s reminiscent of Palm Springs with a huge lake.

The Airport is on this Southern side of Guadalajara. The bus doesn’t actually stop there, we had to get out then make a mad dash across the 6 lanes, resting and gathering courage in the median along with a local gal. Once across she became our guide and led us the 1 ½ Ks to the terminal. It was 4:00 PM when we entered. The air conditioned space felt great. I had a Starbucks Iced Cappuccino and we sat in their area, adjacent to the Burger King. Starbucks and Burger King, we’re really getting close to home now.

The Kids Are HERE!

The Mexicana Airlines plane delivered Lori and Dave, “on time”. What a wonderful hugging and talking re-union after 3 ½ years. A taxi into town with their big bag on the roof rack, straight to Hotel San Francisco. The rooms were something less than the Guide Book had suggested. Lori and Cat went shopping for a better place wile Dave and I stood the watch and caught up on the things and the events of each others lives. A young guy working here suggested that he had better rooms for us. When the ladies returned they took a look and decided to stay here, even though the rooms are just off the kitchen.

Lest we forget, Lori and Dave brought a care package. They say they’re Mules, referring to people who carry drug across the border. No drugs but the wild looking Nikes they brought might have been tagged for taxes if mailed. However, there was no larceny involved, they just don’t have shoes larger than size 10 here in Mexico. At least none that we‘ve found and we have shopped around.

A very happy hour in our room then off to a Taco Stand that Cat and Lori had seen on their room search. They allowed us our wine, the food was perfect, Mexican fare, Tacos and Gringas. Gringas? You remember that wonderful shaved pork on flour tortillas with cheese and pineapple filling that we discovered in Mexico City!

The rooms are cold and noisy. Sleep didn’t come easily and was sporadic.

December 29, 2005
Exploring Hotels and Guadalajara

Our room was cold as ice and noisy, too. The bar crowd noise died down about 3:00 AM then the breakfast crowd noise commenced at 6:00. We decided that we had to find a new place this morning. The best thing about the San Francisco was breakfast. Though not included it was a bargains at 65 Pesos for a full buffet.

Davey and I waited while Cat and Lori shopped Hotels. They found Hotel Fenix then we all walked, Dave pulled their suitcase and I our bags. The place is so much nicer, a few dollars more but worth it.

Once ensconced, we set out to explore. The Plaza and area around it is picturesque and full of Holiday Spirit. Guadalajara here, takes on a very European feeling. Guadalajara is a huge City, the second largest in Mexico where more than 4,000,000 people live.

How can we pass a visit to Tlaquepaque, the name alone has a certain allure to it. We rode the local bus across town to this separate City of another ½ million people. Tlaquepaque is known for several artisan items, the first we visited was a glass factory. They were making decorative bottles, taking molten glass out of the furnace and dropping it into molds. Pretty interesting and the staff there seemed to be just as interested in us.

Glowing Glass

Other artists create Ceramics, Bronze Figures and Embroidery other Fabrics and Metal items. We didn’t visit any other studios but the streets are full of little shops full of items from artists from all over Mexico.

We stumbled upon Casa Tequila, a tasting room for a small distillery. They produce El Baron and Guitarron Tequila. The presentation about the process was really interesting. We knew that Agave, the plant related to Sisal, is the source but always thought they used the juice of the leaves. A real learning experience and a head start on tomorrow’s trip to Tequila.

Lunch at a collection of restaurants with a stage in the center. Mexican food and music, a real treat. Oh yes, we did have margaritas, too.

Back to the Hotel and a rest. The kids are a little jet lagged and we’re just tired. A little TV then it was time for Happy Hour. A glass of wine and discussion about dinner. There’s a place down the street where people line up starting early in the day. We brought our own bottle of wine as they have no white. After standing in line for half an hour we were seated and told that we would have to drink their wine? A short argument then we gathered our things and walked. There’s a nice looking Taquieria just across the street. No line but the food turns out to be wonderful, and, they had no problem with us bringing our own wine.

December 30, 2005
The Tequila Express

We’d decided to walk and look for Breakfast because the Buffet costs 90 Pesos, abut $9.00 per person. I protested, I hate to walk on an empty stomach. The best surprise of the day, the waiter told us that yes, Men pay 90 Pesos, but Women only 65? Averaged out, a very good deal.

The bus for a tour of Tequila leaves at 10:00 AM at a nearby corner. It’s cool in the shade this morning and the line for tickets is in the shade. The girls had to stand in the sun while Dave and bought. Interesting, a guy had approached us before we got to the line and offered tickets? He was very persistent until we got to the Tourist Office Booth then he disappeared? Was he trying to sell nothing of value?

Last on but there was plenty of room on the big bus. Bernice, our Guide, began explaining the day and pointed out buildings and parks as we exited Guadalajara. Her voice screeched and hurt our ears until she got the speaker system adjusted, then it became a very pleasant and informative drive.

First stop, a Jose Cuervo Agave farm. Bernice did a good job of detailing the process as a young farmer dug one of the plants up, cut the leaves off and trimmed the pineapple. The video we saw yesterday was now confirmed in living color.

Machete

Up Rooting

Cleaning

Split the Agave

The town of Tequila is as picturesque as any little Town of Vineyards in wine regions. It centers around a Plaza like most towns here but actually the center is the Jose Cuervo Distillery. The facility is sparkling clean and doesn’t smell of Tequila. The way they cook the Agave gives off a sort of sweet odor almost like candy cooking. They invited us to taste the cooked plant. It has a sweet flavor similar to a candied yam to me.

Part of the tour is into the Cellar. Much like a Wine Cave, this place is storage for some of the old and rare Tequilas and a table reserved for friends and the family of Cuervo. A group of people, apparently friends, were seated inside the iron cage that protects rare. The speaker warned us not to take pictures. I thought he meant there so I went around the corner and took one of the aging barrels with signatures of dignitaries and friends on them. The speaker stopped and yelled, “Who is taking pictures”? Well, I apologized but kept the pic and now you can see it, too.

After we’d soaked up the knowledge we sat in the shade and soaked up a margarita.

Back on the Bus and off to the included lunch at a hilltop Restaurant. Pretty good food accompanied by a tiny margarita. That one went down so easily that we ordered a pitcher. Even got a picture of the Agave fields below.

La Cofradia is a Micro Distillery. The grounds are like many a small Winery in Sonoma. A pond full of ducks, old wagons with barrels aboard and lots of surrounding fields of Agave. Even a cellar and tasting room, too. Bernice poured plentiful sips of the different Tequila’s they produce at La Cofradia.

Next, the long ride back to Guad. Though it’s only a little over 50 kilometers, it felt longer due to the rush hour traffic. At one point a car cut in front of the bus then stopped suddenly. Almost more suddenly than the bus could. The driver slammed on the brakes, we were almost thrown out of the seats. Bernice had the driver drop us at the Galeria Shopping Center.

Fun to see Dave and Lori look in awe at the Wal-Mart and how it. We got a few items to take back to Ajijic and wine of course.

We had such a good time at the Taquieria last night that we went looking for another. Just down the street, a little hole in the wall place beckoned. Great food and fun with the kids.

December 31, 2005
New Years Eve

Another good start at the Buffet trough then off to explore. Back around the Plaza de Armas and Plaza de la Revolution then down the Pedestrian Way to the Plaza Tepatia and an interesting display of permanent sculptures. On the way back we heard a strange, almost eerie sound. Like a high pitched violin playing a classical tune. It was a fellow with only one arm playing a leaf. Yes, an ordinary leaf and he knew how to do it. What a treat, and unlike so many, this handicapped guy isn’t begging, he’s a musician.

Mass

Classical Leaf

In the Palacio de Gubierno we found the huge mural of Miguel Hidalgo angrily bearing a torch while the masses toil at his feet. Another upstairs is former Congress Hall. While roaming the halls we came upon a Bride and Groom posing for pictures in this historic place.

Nude Women and the Tequila Affect

Our next adventure, a Taxi Ride to Zona Rosa. Fairly disappointing, the driver dropped us at an unknown restaurant. Probably his cousin’s place? We paid him then walked down the sidewalk, to his dismay. After walking several blocks we came upon the 2 places we’d asked the Cabbie about. Santo Coyote is a huge, wandering, mostly outdoor Restaurant. Waterfalls rocks and grass between Palapas. Eddie, our waiter is a joy. He worked for several years in Seattle and is planning on a return to own and manage an IHOP, yes International House of Pancakes. He told us that the nude women in the Mural of Adam & Eve are purported to start moving after you drink one bottle of Tequila. When you finish your second bottle they come down off the wall and join you.

All the food was very good but Dave’s Hog Leg was memorable. We went back to the rooms and rested while digesting, sat on the bed and talked. This is real quality time with family.

None of us are hungry, wonder why? At 9:00 PM we were struck by a sweet tooth attack. Cat and Lori went seeking ice cream. The store with those wonderful buckets of 33 flavors was closed. We waited out the New Year and stuffed ourselves with ice cream sandwiches. The ball dropped, it was a New Year. A moment of hugs and hoopla then, too tired to continue the celebration, we hugged again and got our first good nights sleep in ‘06’.

2006

Sunday, January 1, 2006
A Bright New Year

Our third morning at the Buffet and we ran into Mike, Ann, Mark and Cindy from Ajijic. They came in to see Harry Potter on the big screen then spent the night.

A Family Gift, For Christmas

Hugo, the Bellman asked where we were going then told us that he’d spent Christmas with a friend on the shores of Lake Chapala. A guy who’s been coming to Mexico for the past 2 years and staying at Hotel Fenix has been shopping for a home. He bought this year and invited Hugo and family down for the holiday. His Mother in Law was disappointed and told them that they had given the guy a great present at her expense, “A Family”.

A Taxi to Bus Station, a 40 minute wait then off to Ajijic.

The Taxi Lori and Cat found at the Plaza had failing clutches. It lurched and roared up the hill and through the gate of David and Eileen’s Community. The Gate Guard told the driver to take us to a neighbor’s home where they were having a New Years Party.

Our driver honked, David & Eileen came down and led the way to their place.

Well Tequila Leads to a Check Checkup

David drove us into Chapala. We walked the crowded Malecon then snacked. David and the ladies drank a beer, Dave and I had Margaritas. Did they use Don Luis White Tequila as we’d ordered? Had another to split and watched as the bartender constructed it. He made a big point of showing us the bottle. This one was definitely smoother, the first may have just been tequila from the well?

Then, the check. First, they charged us for an extra beer and an orange drink. Then when they straightened that out we asked them to split the bill between our Visa Card and Dave and Lori’s. Cat and Lori presented their cards and as they were signing Cat noticed that they had charged the entire bill on Lori’s card and half again on ours. They hovered around, even seemed halfway apologetic. A mistake? Maybe but 3 compounded errors?

Eileen’s Homemade Pizza for dinner then we watched their slides of past trips. This is a part of the reason that I asked David and Eileen to have us back with the kids. It’s good for them to see others who step out, even over the edge looking for life and experiences.

January 2, 2006
At Home in Ajijic

A Day With David and Eileen

Breakfast at Danny’s Café with Dave & Lori, just the 4 of us. We walked down to the lake then the entire tiny town of Ajijic. Then took a bus to the other end of town on a wine run. I was already hungry, so a great sandwich while the others watched.

Back on the hilltop in the late afternoon, we just relaxed and enjoyed each other, the 6 of us. Then we sat out on the patio and enjoyed the beauty of this place. Five of us sipped wine as the sun dipped below the western mountains. Eileen has begun a killer diet that doesn’t allow wine. Her New Years resolution.

Dinner out, our treat. We went to a local Restaurant that specializes in sea food. Eileen’s diet will allow fish. Another evening of good food and good times.

January 3, 2006
Ajijic to Puerto Vallarta

Good Bye to Lori and Dave A long Bus Ride to Puerto Vallarta

m jtThanks to Eileen we had a nice breakfast together and thanks to David, we were soon on the road to the Guadalajara Airport. A bit of emotion, a group hug then Lori and Dave disappeared inside and David drove on. He has insisted on driving us all the way to the Bus Station. A quick hug for him and we ran to the ETN desk. The bus is sitting, ready to roll. It’s a 5 ½ hour ride so Cat hustled to get sandwiches while I got the bags aboard. While loading I learned that ETN provides sandwiches and soft drinks. So, we had an abundance of food. Lucky, too, we were seated in the front seat. Oh, there is no view they have a curtain over the window ahead but there is extra leg room.

The first portion of the trip is on the road we will soon be pedaling. There are some hills in our future.

It was after dark when the bus left the Highway and bounced through the bumpy dirt streets to the Station. After collecting our bags we found a telephone and struggled trying to find a Hotel. Three calls, three tough Spanglish lessons and we got one. Then a taxi. There is a guy near the door who shepherded us out to one that already had a guy in side. A friend of the driver? No, he too is a passenger. They do a shared cab here. He’s from Canada, comes here very year to escape the cold.

The Hotel Emprador looks a little seedy. We checked in got to the room and thought we’d probably look for another place tomorrow.

Dinner, we walked down the street to an Italian Restaurant. Ordered a Pizza and waited, and waited, and waited. Too late to really enjoy it, we did a take away and ate in the room. After closer inspection, we kind of like the room and this neighborhood. We have a King Sized Bed, a lightly furnished living room and a kitchen on the deck overlooking the beach.

January 4, 2006
Pat’s Mom & Dad’s Birthdays
A Walk to Aura’s

Breakfast, there’s a little Coffee place around the corner. It caught our eye last night. The locals were there jus like those that hang at Starbucks back home. The locals are there again this morning, so many that we decided to pass and move to the next place. It doesn’t have the ambience or number of hanger-oners but fewer smokers and step in, step up and order. I walked to a little store and got bananas. This is the life. Balmy weather, real coffee and great people watching.

Vallarta Beach

Puerto Vallarta has a huge Gay population both full time and vacationers. Interesting, almost like being the only white faces in Africa, we are often the only hetero-sexual couple and the Coffee Place is an example. Our take on Gays, most are quite normal folks, just doing their best to do the best they can with what they have to work with. In fact we talked about that as we walked up and over the hills looking for Aura’s place The question we’ve come up with is, “Ever heard of straight bashing? Ever heard of a group of Heterophobics beating up a straight person”?

Aura & Franklin, San Francisco-Lisbon-Puerto Vallarta

Aura, our friend from San Francisco is here with her sister. You remember, she and husband Franklin had us stay with them when we cycled the first leg of our Odyssey. Then they flew into Lisbon, Portugal and we spent a week together. Finding her was difficult, she just had directions to the corner nearest the house they’ve rented. We asked a woman about Dos Senoras desde California and she instantly knew who we were looking for. Up to the top of the hill and the push of a doorbell brought the building manager. He rang their bell then let himself in to check. Bad news, nobody home.

Politics and Margaritas Don’t Mix

So, we walked back to our Hotel and called Lauri, Cat’s closest friend since 2nd grade and her husband, Paul. No answer there either. Thinking they must be at the pool we grabbed a cab. The note on their door confirmed, “At the Pool”.

Though we’re ill prepared for swimming and taking sun, good friends sounds real good. They’re here with one of Paul’s oldest school pals, Jerry and his wife Debbie. We sat in the shade and just enjoyed re-acquainting. They had lunch, we just ate a salad. We’ve been avoiding lettuce but it just looked too good to pass. Lauri has her cell phone so she and Cat took seats near the pool and called their friend, Lisa in Seattle. A real treat for Cat.

The afternoon moved toward evening and the Rose Bowl Game, USC vs. Texas as the sun moved down toward the Pacific. Dinner on the deck with the game on TV. Though Paul and I share a very similar background in Real Estate my thinking has changed some. We sipped Margies and talked Politics. Not a good mixture. When we got into Private Property Rights, the underpinnings of Realtors in California I talked of Zimbabwe. I reminded Paul, “You can say that the Rhodesians lost their Property Rights when Robert Mogabe and his friends won the civil war but then, their ancestors had owned all this property for 10s of thousands of years just 150 years earlier”. That didn’t go over well so I mentioned how the Palestinians seemed to have lost their Private Property Rights to Israel just a short 50 or so years ago. This brought Paul to his feet, he snapped at me and stomped off to the Restroom. We knew it was time to go. By the way, the game was gong Paul’s way. He had bet on Texas. (Paul and I talked later and have agreed Margies and Politics definitely don’t mix.)

We stood and watched a band play and revelers dancing and walking up and down the beach below our room. This place is one big happy party.

January 5, 2006
Another Day in PV, Another Walk to Aura’s

A Walk Along the Malecon

Back to the Coffee Shops, there were fewer locals in the first place so we took a seat. The coffee is similar but the pastries are much better. Some of the regulars drifted in and the cloud of smoke thickened a bit but all in all, good.

We walked the streets of PV and took pictures. It is a city full of photogenic places and memories for us. Cat and I came here in on a getaway in 1999. We did the tourist things that we like to do, you know dinner out and a few glasses of wine. We saw the sights and then rented bicycles. A trip to the top of a mountain, no less. So far out that w could take a skinny dip in a pond on a cold little creek. A great memory.

Vallarta Music

The streets feel familiar and we like that . Lunch at a nice Restaurant on the Malecon. Plenty of photo ops as we walked.

A taxi ride back to Aura’s all to no avail. I have made contact with Montezuma, again. Feeling pretty bad, we opted for dinner in. Cat went down to the Restaurant and ordered soup. She enjoyed TV, we ate soup and I stayed close to the toilet.

January 6, 2006
Puerto Vallarta to Ajijic
Long Bus Rides to Ajijic

Breakfast at the Coffee place with bananas bought nearby. A Taxi to the Bus Terminal and we arrived just 5 minutes before the departure of the 10:05 AM bus. We rushed through the terminal and made it. Perfect, we thought we’d have to wait until 11:30. This means we may make it back to Ajijic by wine time.

Sandwich and soft drink in hand we boarded and found our mid cabin seats. Another English language movie but we found it hard to stay attentive.

We did get a good look at the hilly section of the road from PV to the highway. Then we watched and knew that we’d do this same ride slowly, next week.

The Taxi Drivers at the Bus Station were pretty aggressive. They offered a ride to the Old Station for $10 US then reduced to $8. A guy near the door quietly suggested that we could take the bus for less than 10 Pesos each. Another Taxi Driver got in our faces as we looked for the Bus Stop. He offered a ride all the way to Ajijic for 350 Pesos. ($35 US) We told him that we’d decided to take the bus. Our total cost on the bus will be less than $5 US each.

The local bus was tough. Hard plastic seats and a really bumpy ride. A woman sort of adopted us and helped us find the stop and directions down the street to the Station.

The Bus to Ajijic was standing, idling and waiting for us. Tickets and aboard then of, over the hill. This was a direct flight, they avoided the stop in Chapala and dropped us on the Main Street of Ajijic by 430 PM.

A Taxi ride to David and Eileen’s only to find Chuy working in the carport. David and Eileen have gone to the movies in Guadalajara and won’t be back until later. It was cold, windy and I was feeling terrible. I at in the pickup truck while Cat talked with Chuy. She asked about getting inside and at first he told her he couldn’t. Then as she shivered he softened and told her to wait. He went up on the roof and down through a skylight. He asked us not to tell David and Eileen. Hope they don’t read this.

We settled back in, Cat opened a bottle of wine when just as our hosts arrived. They weren’t surprised to see us inside, the said, “So, you found the key under the mat”? No, we hadn’t taken time to check our e-mails and they had sent one telling us where to find the key.

Once again, I have been afflicted with Montezuma’s Revenge. Diarrhea and the chills had me huddled down on the couch under a blanket. David insisted that he make rice for me. It was pretty bland but then, that’s what it takes to kick The Montezuma.

I went to bed early. They had a light dinner then sat and talked.

January 7, 2006
A Sick Day in Ajijic
Getting Over Montezuma’s Revenge

I knew when I awoke that leaving today wouldn’t be a good idea. I wrapped in the blanket again and took the seat on the couch watching CNN News until the others began to stir. Cat was disappointed, David and Eileen understanding. We will spend this day here, healing me.

Light breakfast for me, David cooked poached eggs with toast. The normal for the others.

The entire day was just hanging around. Cat did lots of e-mail cleansing. She also spent much of the afternoon re-working the bags.

Lunch and dinner at David and Eileen’s Canteen. 

To bed early for me, we will leave tomorrow, one way or the other. The others stayed up, talked and watched TV.

Sunday, January 8, 2006
Ajijic to Outskirts of Guad
73 Kilometers

Big hugs and promises to see each other again soon then we rode down the bumpy, rocky road into the Pueblo. Breakfast at Danny’s Café. I had poached eggs and toast. Cat enjoyed a real Mexican treat.

A cool but sunny morning and we were off, on the road, again. There is a bicycle path along the road most of the length of the Lake. It undulates in shallow ups and downs into Jocotepec. There’s a festival going on here, at this village at the west end of Lake Chapala. We made our way through the streets filled with booths of food and games then around the corner at the church. A soft drink on the curb watching others watch us then, back on the bikes. Highway 39 takes a turn to the right and up. There is little room for cyclists, luckily there are few cars and trucks.

At the cross road where we joined Highway 80 we sat in the shade and drank one of the Gatorade’s we have on board. A group of local people came by. Dressed in western wear, they looked us over and we did the same with them.

A Service Station with Mini Mart had sandwiches. I had one after a much needed trip to the toilet. Cat is feeling fine and anxious to keep going. I feel weak and tired.

The road is becoming a nightmare. Traffic flows past at horrendous speed and close to us. Then as the traffic thickened the nightmare took a new and more dangerous dimension. Road construction, a pipeline being buried along our side left us pushing at times. Loose dirt and dust added to the danger.

A Night in the Sexo Hotel

Wal-Mart and Applebee’s signs caught our attention. Then across the busy highway, a Hotel. I convinced Cat that we needed to stop or at least, I did. The push across was at least as dangerous as cycling. 6 lanes full of speeding cars, buses and trucks. A median strip that made us slow down while jumping over the curb into the safety zone.

The Hotel is gorgeous, obviously a SEXO HOTEL but gorgeous. For 350 Pesos ($35 US) we have a suite upstairs over our private garage. As hot as the room is, the shower water is cold. What a turn off that must be for lovers?

Spit baths then we dressed warm and hustled back across to Applebees Restaurant. Imagine, an Applebees here in Guadalajara. Sure we have one in Oxnard but it brought back memories of our first encounter with the chain.

Applebee’s in Rome

Applebee’s in Rome? Yes, Rome, Georgia is where we first encountered the Chain. Daughter Stephanie and her brood was living there. They had little or no money. Her then husband, whose name we won’t mention, was between jobs, again. Our treat, what’s your favorite place? They chose Applebee’s. We don’t know if there were others, we thought it was a local place. The kids, Timothy and Patrick were a handful which left little or no time to enjoy the food.

The food at Applebee’s in Guadalajara was sort of dry and bland. Maybe my run in with Montezuma has something to do with that. Cat liked hers.

The assumption that we’d be awake half the night with the banging doors, moans and groans would hamper sleep was incorrect.

January 9, 2006
Pooped Out in Guad 15 Kilometers

The rumble in the night wasn’t from comings and goings of clientele, it was my stomach. Up and about fairly early, we dodged and ducked traffic to get back across to Applebee’s. We reminisced about that first meal and how the chain has spread across the US and now into other countries. The food was okay at best but then, nothing tastes very good to me and my souring stomach.

After another “take your life in your own hands” dash through the heavy traffic we decided that we would ride back to an underpass rather than try to push into the stream. Loaded and ready we pushed the button, the garage was suddenly flooded with sunlight and we were off. Out the gate of the Sexo Hotel onto the busy Highway and back almost 1 K to the underpass. Road work made the ride even more difficult. Dust swirled from the speeding traffic.

Slow going and my slowly sinking feeling of nausea ground us to a stop just 15 Ks out. The traffic on Highway Vallarta was so thick and the off ramps so difficult that we decided to stop and find a Hotel. A guy working outside at a Plumbing place tried to understand then tried to help. Failing he called inside and a nice young girl came out. Between then they decided that the best would be to loop around to the Street where we’d seen Costco and we’d find Hotels there. The first one was expensive, wouldn’t allow the bikes in the room and had no space to store them. They recommended a place, Nuevo Guadalajara, just down the street.

A Motel but they have a restaurant and the room is clean. I began taking Cipro 3 days ago but it doesn’t seem to be making a difference. We settled in and I hit the bed. We had room service deliver soup then Cat used our computer on wireless (Yes this little place has wireless Internet connect.) to check e-mails and let the family know where we are and why we’re holed up.

Room Service for dinner and TV. No CNN but American Network and movies in English with subtitles.

January 10, 2006
A Day With Doctor Rebecca, Mary and Louisa

A night of light sleep interrupted by quick trips to the toilet. I still have full blown diarrhea.

By 8:00 AM we decided to see a Doctor. Cat spoke with our new pal Gerardo. He suggested a Clinic and thought they’d speak English there. We caught a taxi and he told the driver where to take us. Somehow, in translation the Taxi Driver took us to a different place. It’s near the Hotel so we figured it would work.

Real San Jose Hospital is new. The staff helpful but only a young girl, Louisa in admitting, speaks English. We struggled until getting the point across that I wanted a stool and blood test. They got the blood then I got one of my all too numerous urges and we had testing materials. They suggested coming back in 2 hours for the results.

Another Taxi ride then Breakfast, I had 2 soft boiled eggs to settle things. We watched the Judge Alito Nomination Hearings until Cat was too b