The Baltic’s to Berlin
Eastern Europe, a Metamorphosis

There is still a lot of visible evidence of the Soviet Years in the Baltic’s, Poland and even East Germany. There are the Stalinesq apartments, row upon row filled with the old plumbing and décor, yet on the other hand there is also a recent surge of new building. Born-again entrepreneurs everywhere are taking financial risks, hoping for rewards. Much of the positive attitude is based upon the expectation that they will soon be a part of The European Union. (Lithuania and Poland have both voted overwhelmingly to join.)

It’s hard to understand how a third of the people could have been killed or imprisoned during the dark years here. For Cat and I, it is completely unbelievable that the Government could take all private property away from its citizens. The good news is that they are repatriating it back to those families who can prove previous ownership. You’ll meet a family from the US that has retrieved their family property after 57 years. In Poland, the Government claims that 50 % of properties are now held in private ownership. That applies to businesses, too. (Friends say they think the numbers are inflated about 10%?)

In this chapter of our Journal, “The Baltic’s to Berlin,” we cycle 1500 Km. (1000 Miles +-) For those of you counting, this brings us to 10,000 Km. (6,200 Miles+-)

If you’ll keep on reading, we’ll keep on Riding!

(Note from Wally: There are a few pictures missing from this journal entry. I'm working to add those, and will let you know when they are there.)

April 21, 2003
Russian Border to Ape, Latvia
(Pskov to Ape 107 Km)

We remember the words of the Finnish Border Guards, “Take a deep breath of freedom before you cross into Russia.” We found a growing freedom there but, like the fresh breath of spring we had been feeling, we swept into Estonia. The liter that spoils the roadsides of Russia stopped as suddenly as it had begun at the Finnish border. We were greeted by smiling, helpful Border Guards, another pleasant and unexpected surprise.

Jill, came up to us and said, “You’re Americans?” She’s from Canada and stuck here at the friendly border crossing. When I did my usual comment, “Canadians are Americans, too,” she rolled her eyes back and said, “Not at this border, Estonia requires a Visa for Canadians to enter.” Funny, she like us, just wants to cross the small corner of Estonia, 21 Km that lies between here and Latvia. Estonia allows citizens of the US without Visas as does Latvia and Lithuania. The two latter let Canadians cross without Visas, too. Red tape and Governments???

We talked and took a picture while the good guys there tried to find a way to let her pass. In the end, she had to backtrack and go south then cross directly into Latvia. An interesting gal, she is backpacking Europe, hitchhiking alone. Cat couldn’t fathom that, especially in Russia. She has been living in Russia for 5 months, teaching English. Her Boyfriend is Russian, perhaps really getting to know the Russian people AND speaking the language changes ones perspective about them.

We waved as she hitched a ride back then turned to our own problems. There are no Hotels, Guest Houses or even places to camp in Estonia on Highway A2. The Border Guards did tell us about a place they called the Round House. It is 22 Km inside Latvia. They thought there would be a place to camp and maybe a room inside but no facilities. They even took time to draw a map to make sure that we wouldn’t miss the place. So, we roll into The Baltic’s, land of freedom and distances. We’ve come 64 Km and have at least another 43 to go.

Hunger began to set in so we sat on a curb and ate leftovers, our first and only meal in Estonia. A few cars and trucks and farms were pretty much all we saw until a small market in the tiny village of Misso. We did buy an apple and soft drink for dessert there. A young guy sat on his haunches, smoking and drinking a beer and watching us cut and eat the apple, with great interest. There was a bicycle sitting nearby with a rack on the rear wheel. I asked if he was a cycle tourist. He shook his head and said that he didn’t speak much English. We asked the woman in the store about a Camp Ground or Motel. She thought there was one in 20 Km. The bicycle guy didn’t think there was one but he wasn’t sure. He works for the Highway Department but knows or can communicate nothing about the things along the road. That might have to do with the lack of Estonia in these parts. It is only 21 Km across at this point.

True to the hand drawn map, we found the turn off to the Round House just past a sign for the village of Ape which is 2.6 Km off the road to the north. It took some work but I finally convinced Cat to ride into Ape in hopes of finding a store for a few groceries before setting up camp. She is tired and rightfully so, we have ridden more than 100 Km. It was an easy glide down into Ape, which meant we would be climbing out. There were two women and a man standing, talking on a corner. We pulled up and tried to talk. Their English was as limited as our Latvian. A guy rode up and did speak some English. He was snaggle toothed and the only whole tooth remaining was gold. Just for drill I asked about a Hotel or guesthouse. No, none here. Then I asked if anyone rents a room in their house, they conferred and Golden Tooth said that there was a lady who would rent a room. He suggested that we follow him but one of the gals lived in the direction and must have told him that she would guide us.

The house is cute. It’s called Silaziedi, which means house of flowers. The woman there called and another gal came down the street. She was a daughter and spoke English. We had a room and breakfast for only 5 Lats, each. That is 10 Lats or less than $9.00. The next search would be for dinner. We rode the bikes into the heart of the village looking for a grocery store. The Golden Tooth came running out of the door of a bar/café as we passed, called out and waved. We waved back but rode on. At the heart of the village we found the private store. Cat went in and got ham, cheese, bread and a fair bottle of wine. We were in business.

 

The Girls of Silaziedi	"You Must Be Crazy", Latvian

As she shopped I drew a crowd. Golden Tooth rolled up on his bike and kept saying, “I understand English but don’t speak!” He liked to get right in my face to make his point. A young guy with a 100-liter plastic bottle half full of beer staggered up and tried to talk. He urged me to take a drink of his warm foamy beer then fell and sat on the steps of the store. Then came the best character of all, Mala. She was carrying a broom and sort of sweeping the gutter and then the steps around the drunken young guy. Her clothing was filthy and she was snaggle toothed, too. She was scolding the boy then Golden Tooth and finally she turned her wrath toward me. She gestured with her broom handle and made remarks about my tight pants. She even took a poke at my private parts with her broom handle. Every thing she said made the crowd that was gathering laugh and point at me. She was a real show person. Ape Cyclists  Mala Makes Jokes

A young guy pulled up in a four-wheeler, got out and asked if he could help me. It was good to have a friend who talked my kind of talk. I was getting a little nervous about the crazy gal and the drunken boy. Not sure what either was saying and both were pretty vocal by now. He had worked in Denmark and seemed anxious to practice his English. He told me that the drunken boy who seemed to be getting belligerent was an okay kid who had just had too much beer. The old lady, Mala, was making jokes. I started joking back and she grabbed me and tried to kiss me on the lips. I hugged her but turned a cheek to the kiss. Boy was she strong smelling. Cat came out and saved me.

Back at Silaziedi we found that we even had BBC on the little TV in our little room at the top of a tiny stairway. We were really happy to be here and could only imagine what the Round House would have been? Our bathroom was at the bottom of the stairs. A dressing table and tub, no sink? Old Soviet style toilet but way ahead of what we might have had at the Round House.

After a spit bath we picnicked in the room. Anita had Rikard, her Grandson, bring up a tray of tea. Neither of us drinks tea however we accepted gracefully. The story of the house is slowly coming together for us. Rikard is staying here to help his Grandma. Grandpa died just a few weeks ago. What a nice boy and good helper for here to have.

Our nightcap was an old movie, they spoke English and ran Latvian sub-titles across the bottom. We’ll never know what the Round House may have been but we were pretty happy campers as we turned off the telly and lights.

April 22, 2003
Ape to Smiltene, Latvia
57 Kilometers

Breakfast was a blend of same and strange. The strange was a sort of pizza toast and deviled eggs. Rikard came in, sat and talked for a short time then hustled off to school. Anita had thrown a light rug over the bikes to protect them. We loaded then she came to the driveway, smiled and waved goodbye. It is 2 Km back to the highway then a ride in forest. A stop at a store for toilet then we sat on the deck, watched the traffic and I had a soft drink. As we rested an old guy came out the door and stood staring at us. He was had a yellow paler and didn’t look healthy. His cloths were baggie and he wore knee high rubber boots. We thought he was a local just out for exercise with a pack on his back. He walked across the street then on, out of our view. When we got back on the road we caught him almost a Km along. He was striding and looked like he was on a serious trek.

 

	Our Ape Room

It was 2:00 Pm when we pulled up at the Tourist Office of Smiltene. While Cat checked with the staff I watched the bikes. There were two boys, Salvis and Edis, sitting on the stairway. They were talking and joking back and forth then the one nearest, held out his hand and said, “Money?” I returned the salute, “You give me money, you’re young, and I’m old.” They laughed and although I don’t think they understood the words they got the message. Then I gave them cards and showed them our route on my jacket. Like most young teenagers they were impressed but continued to joust and joke.  "You Give Me Money!"

Cat found a fairly fast Internet connection so we spent 2 ½ hours fielding and answering messages. Our Hostess called the Park Hotel Bruzi and secured a room while we hovered over the computer screen.

The city map said climb up then drop down. We thought it might be better to go around. After a half Km ride on bumps we backtracked and climbed. The Hotel sits low, next to a creek. A steep downhill at the end of the day means a climb at mornings start. The first problem in the Hotel was what to do with the bikes. They had no elevator and our room is up. The girl at the desk offered us a large conference room for parking, we took it. She even gave us the key to the room. We had to tote our own bags to our really great room. The Hotel is almost new. The room and furnishings were in soft, light pine. Very comfortable. We dined in the restaurant and food was very good. From the room we had a creek view and we watched the gardener as he raked leaves and branches then fed them into a fire. Starving, the meager ham and cheese leftovers went down fast. Park View

It is still ahead of season, there was a couple in the restaurant but they left as we entered. A business guy seated across from us was buried in his newspapers and cell phone. Those may be the only other guests? We enjoyed terrific food and service in our solitude.

April 23, 2003
Smiltene to Cesis, Latvia
58 Kilometers

After a big, included breakfast we took the bikes out of the conference room and up the three stairs, into a sunny morning. The hill above the Hotel was alive with leaf raker's, school kids who must have to help the community get ready for summer. They were having fun and doing good work. The bicycle path along the creek and small lake saved us most of the steep climb. We emerged on the same street we had given up on last night then turned back.

 

		No Limit on Leaves

We rolled on for a while, then saw a small market /bar where we stopped for a snack. Pat bought cookies and juice. We sat at a picnic table roadside and watched the trickle of traffic and life go by. We rolled into Cesis at 2:00 and went directly to the Tourist Info Center. The very nice girl helped us find a hotel and gave us a list of things to see in Cesis. I asked her if she spoke Russian, I have failed to get “You Must Be Crazy” in Russian. She did the “language of the world” sentence in Latvian and I thought it was Russian. So much for my ear for language! The brochure on Cesis District had a picture of horse back riders wearing Cycling helmets. I thought it was funny and asked the girl if these were Cesis Cowboys. She blushed and said, “They are just people trying to ride horses.”

Hotel Katrina is only 2 years old, it looked modern compared to the rest of the neighborhood. No elevator and we were on the third level. Settling in was three trips up with bags before we locked the bikes in a garage across the driveway. Starving, we had a late lunch in Hotel Katrina’s small café. The food was really good and inexpensive, too.

Quick showers then we walked to see the Old and New Castles. When we got to the Castle, the woman said it was closed, but after talking with a colleague, she had her 12 year old son Edward show us the way to the castle and how to light the lanterns. Yes, part of the walk in the old Castle was in almost total darkness. There is a circular stair and room that was eerie in the flickering light. As we walked back to return our lanterns and the matches they had supplied we stumbled across a Smithy Shop where Daumants Kalnins crafts jewelry in the ancient style. He is the wonderful kind of character that we love to meet. From his raspy voice to his unique musical instruments. He played a sort of zephyr for us and wanted to show us the sound of a Latvian bagpipe. First squawk and we knew we didn’t need a long song. Daumants Kalnins also contributed “You Must be Crazy” in Russian for us. Of course I bought the book he has written about his art.

Master Smithy	Latvian Strings	"You Must Be Crazy," Russian

As if to spit in the eye of the former style of government, the Victory Monument, an obelisk in the central square, was a commemoration of Latvian Freedom in the early 1900s. When the Communist government took over they blew it up. When they left power in 1991 the locals immediately rebuilt it.

After a big search in a small town we finally found the Internet Shop. It was crowded with young kids. They had 20 almost new machines. The cost was cheap and the computers fast. We stayed there until they asked us to leave at closing time, 6:30 PM. Back to Hotel Katrina and to dinner in the downstairs Café.

April 24, 2003
Cesis to Sigulda, Latvia
39 Kilometers

Before leaving Cesis we rode back to the castles. I had seen an inscribed stone and wanted a picture of it. For some reason I couldn’t remember where it was? Inside the Castle walls, near the Police Station, it sits in view of the City Hall. The words, “Komunisma Terora Upuru Pieminai 1940-1991 are etched there like a bad memory of a terrible time. As we exited town another interesting sign of changed times. An old cemetery overgrown with many head stones askew. Some of the cover stones were thrown back like covers on a soiled bed. Were these the final rest of those who now have fallen into disfavor?

The short ride was countryside beauty but we did see a wonderful looking windmill in the distance. At the square of Sigulda there was a tall Easter display. The sign to Info Center led us to the combination Hotel and Tourist Info, all in one! The gal at the desk, Inga, was great. She suggested a Pizza place just a short walk away. We were starving and it hit the spot. The place is only 4 months new and the guys who waited on us wanted to know about our trip when they saw our jackets.

Back at the Hotel we decided, at the urging of Inga, that we should see Sigulda. She called a Taxi and translated our desire to see the castle and other attractions and to settle on a cost. We were short of time so it was to be a quick trip, the kind we like.

The New Castle, as in Cesis, is the Town Hall and it’s adjacent to the Old Castle. Our driver waited while we walked around the New. We went inside and asked about climbing to the top of the bell tower but the lady smiled and got here point across, NO. Across the barranca that separates the New from the Old, we enjoyed the feeling of time and space just walking through the falling down rocks of the old structure.

The driver had the engine running and whisked us to the Lawn Art Museum. Dozens of huge sculptures scattered around a large open park. Also, there is a twisted tree with a monument under it. We read the story of Lucaida Rose, a young girl who was killed for dubious reasons unknown to us but her memory remains, etched in stone. We could see the walls and tower of Turaida, another Castle on another hilltop. It was closed so this would be as close as we would get.

Our final stop on the tour was Krimulda formerly a Castle then a Sanatorium Hospital now in deteriorating condition. In a large semi circular building that looked temporary we saw hundreds of beds row on row, as if waiting for the infirm to resurrect. On the way back we crossed the famous Gauja River that has carved out this famous valley.

Dinner at pub type place full of Motorcycle memorabilia. The Waitress and Bar Tender are a Harley couple. Seated at the bar, we struck up a conversation with a couple from England, Steve and Annie, who were here for a wedding. Cat talked travel with her while he and I compared notes on old cars.

April 25, 2003
Sigulda to Riga, Latvia
52 Kilometers

The typical included breakfast then we were off on a great road to Riga. Inga our friend from the Hotel, stopped and we chatted. She offered her cell phone number to us in case we have an emergency. We suggested lunch and told her we would call. Suburbs, Old & New

The scenery remained rural but the road narrowed and traffic thickened as we got about 40 Km from Riga. We pulled off at a small market and got the usual, ham-cheese-bread luncheon. As we wrapped up our trash a couple of cycle tourists came riding from Riga, waved then turned across and stopped. They also needed a break and it was a lucky break for us. Martin and Stephan are adventure tourists on a tune up ride to Tallin, Estonia. They have ridden close to the same path that I took across the Soviet Union. Martin has cycled North Africa, solo. Much of the route we plan to take will follow his trail-blazing epic. We took a picture together and promised to get in touch in Berlin.

The shoulder disappeared and we were on a freeway. There is no other way at this point so we just bulled our way along, doing our job which is avoiding being run over. Hoping that the drivers are doing their jobs, which is, avoiding running over us.

A shopping center pulled us, ducking and dodging, across four lanes. There was a big hardware store like Home Depot and several small shops clustered at the entry. The entry area was enclosed with a glass roof. It was nice to get a break inside, away from the cold. We bought soft drinks and spread out our left over ham and cheese. As we ate a trio, two women and a man, took turns hustling customers to buy some sort of card they had and sitting next to us smoking. They were pretty shady looking and acting. We kept an eye on our things and them.

I approached a fellow at a Lock Smith stand to see if he had Teflon lube that we could put on our shifters. They are dry and pretty stiff. He didn’t but was a great character. Slightly heavy, with a stiff leg and a hearty laugh. He couldn’t help on the Teflon but when I asked about a safe way into Riga he launched into a speech that was over our heads. The young girl sitting with him translated. “He tells you it is safe, he rides to work and back every day.”

I couldn’t believe my ears and said, “Are you talking about a bicycle?” She assured me it was a bike not motorcycle then he insisted on showing it to us. Well, if he can do it, we can do it. We finished our snack rolled out and attacked the traffic with new vigor. It was still pretty brutal out there. Finally we crossed a big bridge and were able to turn off onto surface streets.

The entry window was the typical Industrial junky places but we did see a lot of ladies hitch hiking? And, a wedding party just walking down the sidewalk and toward a bridge. Nice idea bad neighborhood to do it in.

Cobble stones and cars. When you reach the old town area cars must pay to enter. Sort of a control on the amount of traffic cruising the tiny streets.

Wondering around the cobblestone streets we stumbled upon the hotel that Cat had seen in a brochure. It is called “Rudi un Draugi” which sounds sinister but means, friends and relatives. They only had one room available and it was a family room with what looked like 4 hospital beds. We took it.

Got in, had bowl of soup in their café, then off to Tourist Office for info on city and rest of Latvia. We walked around in “Old Town” finding the market and other places we will want to visit in the next days. It is cool and windy. After our walk we rested then opened the window to blustery wind with big raindrops flying around in it. We chose to have dinner in the restaurant downstairs rather than brave the storm. It’s down a set of stairs from the Café and feels like a wine cellar. One waiter covered the room and did a good job of it. The food and his service were both great.

April 26, 2003
Day Off in Riga, Latvia

We decided we would like to take Inga, the girl who works at the front desk of the hotel we stayed at in Silgulda, to dinner. She lives here in Riga. We called her and made a plan to meet at 6:00 p.m. Laundry was our next first priority. We gathered a lot of clothes together and had the hotel do them. Well they had a lady pick them up, she probably does them at her home. They have a computer downstairs, so we worked on our emails. It was time again to mail another package of maps and brochures home so we ventured out to the Post Office.

The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia is the one we wanted to visit. It holds the story of the Soviet take over of Latvia, in the 1930s then their loss of it to the Nazi. We spent hours learning about the horrible story. The people were pawns between two powerful neighbors. Russia began the process of de-privatization in the late 1930s. Germany pushed the Russians out in 1941 but let stand the edict that the State owned all businesses, land and buildings. During those years of Soviet Occupation the men were conscripted, often illegally, into both the German and Soviet Armies. (So now I knew why Golden Tooth became so emotional when he told me that his Father had served with the German Army.) After the German defeat Russia controlled Latvia from 1945 until 1989. During those dark and terrible years more than 550,000 Latvians disappeared, either killed or sent to Siberia. That was more than 1/3rd of the total population. Incredible, unbelievable, sickening. The pictures, newspaper clippings and writings/handicrafts of the prisoners drive home the point of pain and suffering graphically.

We had lunch at a small café across the square, then walked around town a little. Riga is a wonderful city, with picturesque streets and buildings.

Latvian Bob Dylan	Big Mac to Freedom

We relaxed, back in the room and did more computer work. When the laundry Lady came to our door she handed Cat the bundle and a little paper with 15€ written down on it. We paid but felt that she was pretty expensive, maybe taking advantage of Tourists? When we opened the bundle we were shocked to find that she had mended my old T-shirt, the hole in the leg of my long underwear and, darned one of my sox that was beginning to unravel. So, she was a bargain, after all.

Inga met us in the Lobby at 6:00 p.m. and we ventured out. We walked quite a way to her car because she can’t drive in to the old town area. You not only have to pay but you have to have a reason for driving there. She doesn’t come into this area enough to justify the cost of a pass. She took us to a typical Latvian place first. It is a huge, in fact she says the largest log building in Europe. It is a blend of Restaurant, bar and dance floor, game booths for kids and lots of other touristy things. The food is Buffet with too many choices. It was noisy and busy. We had hoped for a quiet place where we could have dinner and conversation. We had salad then convinced Inga to move elsewhere for dinner. She took us to a place she likes but we think she didn’t want to suggest an expensive place. It was exactly our vision, nice wine list and menu. Prices weren’t as low as the Buffet but they weren’t bad. Inga, our Tour Guide

What a nice person. Inga has 3 boys, one is 21 years old and out on his own. The 13 year old lives with Dad. She has the 4 year old so she has to live in Riga to get a good apartment she can afford. Also, he ex and his new girl friend live in Sigulda and it is obvious that she is uncomfortable with that. She has a friend, Cat asked if he is a boy friend and she said that he wants to be but she isn’t sure. She is concerned about age, he is 62 and she only 40. She can’t decide what to do with him. I told her my age and she said, he seems much older. He family escaped from here 57 years ago. He lived and worked in Phoenix, Arizona and has taken the early retirement. We have to figure that he brings in a pretty good pension from the City of Phoenix and Social Security. The family property he was able to re-claim is on the coast, she says a nice big house. I advised her that she should follow her own feelings but there is nothing wrong with caring for a guy who will take care of you. She is very self-confidant and said that she didn’t have to rely on anyone and likes it that way. We spent a great evening with her.

April 27, 2003
Day Off in Riga, Latvia

Old Riga is World Heritage listed and you can see why when you walk the streets.

We did the walking tour by brochure. At our first stop, the Cathedral, we took the elevator tour to the top of the spire for the view. While we were taking pictures we noticed that the main street along the Daugava River was lined with hundreds of people. A man told us it was for the opening day of cycle season and celebration of the 100th anniversary of cycling. Of course we were excited so we headed right over and fell into the crowd. It only took a few minutes to get the exact scoop. Yes it was opening day of the season and the 100th anniversary but it was Motorcycles not bicycles. Okay it wasn’t bikes as we know and love them but it was interesting. We stayed the wait then got a couple of pictures as wave after wave of Motorcycles of every make and vintage roared past. 100 years of bikes? Then continued on walking around the town. During our walk we stopped at Caribbean Restaurant for lunch. Different but just didn’t hit the spot. Our afternoon was shopping for drugs store essentials and enjoying people watching.

We decided to have dinner in the Café rather than do the search party thing. There were two gals and a guy in the next booth and they were speaking our brand of English. They, like Inga’s friend, have returned to reclaim their family property. They are sister and brother, Ieva and Andrei and sister-in-law, Phyllis. Andrei and Phyllis live in upstate New York. She does hair and he is now proud to say he is retired. Ieva is a Deputy Director with the Fairfax County Police in Fairfax, Virginia. They took back a building that their parents had owned but it hasn’t been a walk in the park. The basement was full of sewer water, dead rats and garbage. The retail spaces on the first floor were in ruins. Worst of all the apartments above were rented in terrible condition at low Soviet rates. They got the retail redone and rented for fair rates but the tenants in the apartments refused to allow workers in, they don’t pay their rent and they won’t move out. I love this story. It is like good prevails over evil after all those years. Too bad they’ve had to spend so much on Attorneys, in re-acquiring then property management issues. It doesn’t sound like a great investment but has sentimental value to them and a possible up side if they can straighten out the tenant problems.

April 28, 2003
Riga to Bauska
69 Kilometers

We saw Ieva, Andrei and Phyllis again at the included breakfast. They were dressed up and ready to meet the lawyer to start the process of “Pay or Quit” that we serve to tenants when they aren’t paying. It isn’t called by that name of course and it is much more difficult to get here than in California. We wished them good luck on their project and they gave us the same wishes for a safe journey.

It was a ride in the countryside with lunch on the steps of a grocery store where I got a soft drink and loaf of bread. We had ham and cheese that Cat had snagged from the breakfast buffet. It was cool and windy. We finally arrived in Bauska at 4:00 PM. At Tourist Info. the lady had a bad cold I wanted to avoid. We stood well back as she explained how to find the only hotel in town. It is a Soviet style, 4th floor walk up. We made a deal to keep the bikes in a hallway that is secure then carried the necessary bags up the 4 flights. Things felt better after a shower, at least the price is right.

The town was formed in 1609 but the buildings look more like 50s and 60s. Tired, we chose to dine in the attached hotel restaurant. It was amazing the transition when you walk through the door from the hotel. The restaurant is well decorated and the menu is Asian. The food was great, we were both surprised and pleased. We took our bottle of wine but the young guy thought that we should drink theirs. It was a full liter and not as nice as ours but, when in Bauska!

April 29, 2003
Bauska to Pasvalys
51 Kilometers

No breakfast included, so we cycled to the Rima Shopping Center. Had coffee and roll in a café while we waited for the Internet place to open at 9:00. I checked messages while Cat sipped her coffee and watched the bikes. Rain and wind slowed us, at times to a crawl. It was showering as we crossed the border into Lithuania. Typical looks at our Passports, yes two looks, one guy scrutinized them, handed them back and motioned for us to move forward where a second guy did the same. Then I asked about changing money. The one guy indicated that we would have to go to a building on our right. Then the other motioned to another little hut that we thought was more Border BS. This one was a moneychanger and insurance guy. We dumped all our Lats and got Leitus. The exchange rate is 3.50 L for $1.00.

Just a short way down the road we found a Lithuania Café. Well actually it was a truck stop but fairly nice inside. The sprinkles turned to rain as we sipped a good bowl of soup. We went back to wet seats and sprinkles in our face, welcome to Lithuania.

The signs for Pasvalys said that we should turn right but our instinct said take the angle road or stay on the highway. Cat was concerned so we stopped and asked a group of guys working on a pipeline for directions to Town. They all pointed, talked among themselves, one who spoke some English said straight then left to Centris. All chimed in, but we could only understand the hand signal about a turn and the word “Centris”.

Our instincts were correct, we had sort of circled town then rolled in to the Centris at about 2:00 PM. Started asking about tourist info and Hotel. One guy just shrugged and walked on. We went across the street where two women and three kids were standing, waiting for the light to change. One knew a few words and pointed down the street. We thanked them and crossed. Suddenly she came running and just wanted to make sure that we understood.

Though everyone indicated that there was no Info Center. They were wrong, it was just across from the only Hotel in town. Cat wasn’t too happy after she saw the room. It was small, Sovietski style and the toilet and shower were down the hallway. Not too clean, either. Well, it’s the only game in town and we were tired of the wind and drizzle. Pasvalys Place

A guy in the lobby asked about us then launched into an invitation for us to join him for a tour including a Sports Club that would “blow us away.” Cat worried about him and his club. She was sure that it was a Sports Bar. I got a different message. His jacket had embroidered wings and the words, US Air Force on it. When I asked he said flying was his hobby. We didn’t connect the airport with him until later. He hurried off but promised to return later. We had a bowl of lukewarm soup in the little restaurant. The décor was all flight, fixed wing and hot air balloon.

Bikes in the lobby, three locks on them. The nice girl said she would be there all night and watch them. Another 24 hour shift worker.

My new best friend never came back? He had also said he wanted to introduce us to the Hotel owner who also owns the Newspaper. Thought he would do a story on us.

We did get confirmation that the pictures and story were received by The Star. They will run the story in the Sunday, May 4 issue. Cat learned that when she stopped at an Internet connection and checked messages. Yes, this small, simple village has an Internet connection in the back of a hardware store.

I sat up shop and worked on the journal while Cat showered down the hall. We decided that the place was about the same as camping except this tent was bigger than ours. Not as clean but bigger.

I went down to check the menu only to find that the restaurant was closed. The girl said, “Go to Sheila’s” and took me to the door to point it out. Then she stepped back in and said, “Sheila is closed, too.”

The T-Market next door is open. We found a chicken, bread and cheese, wine of course and a salad. For some reason, not the clean condition of the room but some reason, we liked the idea better than the place downstairs or Cindy’s.

April 30, 2003
Pasvalys to Panevezys
41 Kilometers

It was easy to get up and out early. The Restaurant wasn’t open yet. The nice girl made us two cups of coffee. We’ve never seen so much sludge in such small cups. No food at all, just the cup of MUD. I went back to the T-Market and got cookies, wanted a sweet roll or muffin but it was not to be. We sipped and nibbled then pushed across and I spent too much time trying to get into AOL in the back room of the Hardware store. A porno site took control and the clerk finally had to shut down and re-boot, to get rid of it.

On the road by 9:45 AM into sun and wind, head wind but a beautiful, sunny day. We cycled for two hours then pulled into a service station and had a snack of OJ with nuts and raisins. It was only 1:30 when we arrived in Panevezys. Our first stop, an English Language School, was worthless, the three girls tried to help but interesting, none could speak English? They did tell us there was no Tourist Office but our map said there was. We found the Café and Tourist Info was just next-door. Lunch then the girl at Info was very helpful, she confirmed that there was no place to stay for the next 55 Km. With the wind in our faces that was not doable. We made a decision to stop here, work on the journal and relax. She recommended a sportsman hotel but it was out of town. We decided to try the Hotel just across the square. Cat checked out the room and came back out with THAT look on her face. It was a typical Soviet style place. The bath was in the room here but the place was dinghy and depressing. The girl at Info had mentioned a place called Hotel Romantic that was fairly close by but expensive. We cycled there and loved the place. Really blew budget on the room and dinner but we deserved some niceties in our life. Cat called it going from a bad P city to a good P city.

English language TV, CNN and BBC, WOW. Cat went to market while I worked on the computer. Dinner downstairs in the very nice restaurant. Live music, a group of girls sang to the sounds of computerized songs. They left at 7:00 and the guy did a few songs but a young girl was the show. She has a great voice and does song after song in English. A mix of early jazz, big band and classic 1940/50 songs. The food and service were wonderful. I struggled with the exchange rate then said to heck with it and chose a bottle of wine that looked good to me. It turned out to be way above budget but wonderful. There was a meeting of some kind going on. They were a little noisy and interrupted our concert. I watched them as they worked the room, making deals or? One guy in particular seemed to be getting cornered a lot and taking an earful.

May 1, 2003
The Blow Out at Panevezys
8 Kilometers

Included breakfast was slow. Good but slow. Met a the guy that I thought was on the hot seat at last night’s meeting in the restaurant, this morning. He is from Switzerland, his firm manufactures TV color picture tubes. They’re the largest manufacturer in the world and they do it all right here. Turns out that the meek one getting it from all directions is the President of the Company. He got away before I could get his card. Too bad, his is another big turn around story. When I was in The Soviet Union in 1989 the color picture tubes were really just a shade of green with some pale yellow. The greatest single reason for fires in the home was TV pictures tubes that would blow up and short out. His firm purchased this plant eight years ago and has become huge. Cheap labor, cheap building and friendly business climate I would suppose.

The girls who work at the desk and restaurant were curious about the bikes. We told them our story and they brought the web site up on the screen at the desk. They were excited when we took a picture with them and really thrilled when Cat told them that we would put their picture on the Site.

It was 11:00 AM by the time we finally rolled out and down the street into heavy head wind. We got to the edge of town and the wind blowing across open space was horrific. We wobbled and twice cars honked warnings as we wobbled. I pulled up at the intersection where we would join the new highway. There was construction ahead and we were turning more into the wind. I estimate it was blowing 45 – 60 Km per hour. (30-40 MPH)

I feared that it would be too dangerous out on the highway. There is only a small paved shoulder, no wobble room. We were reminded of the day we pulled up as we were leaving Lusk, Wyoming and turned back. What change in the story would this turn back bring? Interesting as we stood making our decision several birds tried to fly but ended up on the ground, hunkered down just like us. One really tried to get something going. He would hop then take the wind from the side, wobble and ruffle his feathers then turn his back to the wind. He finally gave up about the same time that we did.

We talked about conserving a little money, staying in the other Hotel but I vetoed that. I would spend the time trying to catch up our Journal. Cat would procure lunch and we would also eat in to save $$$, or is that Leits.

The girl at the desk was surprised to see us. She had asked us to come back again but hadn’t thought it would be this soon. She did give us a 10% discount since we stayed two nights. Cat thought we might get haircuts, but today is a holiday and most shops are closed. So on May Day, which is celebrated as Labor Day, we made it Computer day. Romantic View

The lunch in idea was good but we ended up back downstairs for Dinner. Tonight we had the place pretty much to ourselves. Two other couples came in but the guys were big ones and they just put their heads down and mowed. The same two singers were setting up as we sat down. They are a Father and Daughter team singing. He teaches voice and the other girls last night were students. He said, “This song is for you,” then he belted out a little known Frank Sinatra song that has special meaning to us. Summerwind is not only a beautiful song but it’s the name of a project in Anaheim, CA that we managed for our friend Don Hunt. Summerwind  Moonlight in Vermont

She is interested in expanding her career. They are pretty much stuck here for now but will be able to travel once Lithuania is a member of the European Union. She has an opportunity in Denmark that she is sort of counting on. When the heard that we were from California they invited us to visit their home for tea when they finish their show. By the way, we were the only customers left by 8:00 PM. The idea sounded like fun but we were tired and they went on until 9:00 then would have to tear down. We needed to get to bed. The winds had died down and we wanted to ride in the morning.

May 2, 2003
Panevezys to Kedainiai
67 Kilometers

Cold breakfast, cereal and toast, for speed. We pushed off into rain and wind. Not wind like yesterdays hurricane but wind that slowed progress. We stopped at the turning point of yesterdays attempt, the birds were flying, we were rolling onward.

We avoided having to break out the raincoats for as long as we could stand it. Finally had to dig them out of the bags. Picked up a loaf of bread at a small bakery then snacked in the cover of a bus stop. A woman got out of a car and stood out in the drizzle. She peeked around the corner but remained out in the wind rather than face a couple of aliens.

Though we are on the main highway we have had a fair shoulder and traffic has been light and courteous. Kedainiai is off the highway about 8 Km and it was direct head wind to struggle through. We saw a big, old hotel but close inspection found that it was closed and looked like it had been for years. Following the map, we found a place but it was like the Blocks in Greenland, part of an apartment building. Back to the main road and into the Centris. We followed signs to Tourist Info. The girl was good and called to get us a place. She called a Guest House then hung up and told us she thought it was too expensive. The next place she called was fully booked. Oh well, it was back to the other. We picked up wine and a snack then cycled back in a complete circle. Yes, we would be staying in the apartments. It was hard to believe that we had just spent 2 hours making a big circle.

When we pulled up the drive three boys, Andrus, Karl and Aremus approached us on bikes. They asked if we wanted Hotel. They led us to the door and a woman there sort of shooed them back. Cat checked us in while I played with the kids. Some older girls came up and sat on a low wall, watching. They told the boys something and then the boys asked for money. I used my usual, “You want to give me money?” Once we got beyond the beg I let the oldest boy, Aremus ride Cat’s bike. He was sitting tall and proud in front of his friends but almost took a tumble just as he tried to dismount. He caught himself and that shut off the guffaw from his pals. Aremus Rides

It was one of those bathrooms like that in Ape, toilet and tub but no sink? A rambling two-room place with bedroom and living room. The color scheme was worth a second look. Very strange colors, ranging from orange and brown to icky green. Cat noticed that they had BBC on the TV in the lobby. It wasn’t on our set. I asked the lady why she had it and we didn’t. I thought she was telling me that we could come to the lobby and watch but finally got the gist. She can, somehow, switch the channels from the satellite connection to our room. We now had BBC in our room. Sovietski Decor

We had to take a cab back into Kedainiai for dinner. Both the girl at Tourist and our landlady suggested Vikonda. The cab driver dropped us in front of a glitzy nightclub-looking place. A huge bouncer stopped us, asked for ID then told us that we would have to pay the cover charge of 10 Euro each. When we told him we just wanted to have dinner he seemed to shrug and say, too bad. WE turned to go then he conceded and let us in without cover. The room was full of partiers and most were smokers. It was definitely a Casino and honky tonk. The big guy was shocked when we walked. It was a good ¾ Km jaunt but we enjoyed the fresh air and green trees.

Finally found a small place called Café Ritmus that we liked. It was just a bar and the food was hot snacks. It felt good so we ordered lots of different items. The waitress was shocked at the amount we ate. Taxi back to our Sovietski home…

May 3, 2003
Kedainaia to Kaunas
59 Kilometers

We chose, unwisely as we look back now, not to have the 10 Lat breakfast for two at the Hotel. In part because of the feeling of the place and in the hope that we would find a nice coffee and sweets place in the town. After wasting and hour roaming the streets we ended up with jelly donuts in the parking lot of the Super Market. Cat procured and I watched then moved the bikes to a bench in the sun.

Now, partially fed we were faced with another dilemma, which route to take into Kaunas? We decided not to just backtrack our ride in last night. We then set out without a final choice but we had time to worry as we rode. At the cross road I urged us toward the old road that follows the river. Cat followed and we only had to ride, the decisions were made. We stopped to study the map and a guy who had been behind us on a bike with groceries passed by and waved. We soon caught him again and waved as we passed. Then at the turn off we stopped again to compare notes. He sailed by with the same little wave. After conferring we made a right and set out to catch him. He turned off as we were nearing his back fender.

The bike path disappeared almost as soon as he did. The road was narrow and traffic fairly heavy for such a small strip of asphalt. When cars passed they pulled off on the shoulder to give us room but set up a shower of rocks and dust. Despite the difficulties we thoroughly enjoyed riding near the river, through small villages. When we came to the bridge over the highway E 85 that is the shortest distance and best road between the two points we were tempted. We sat on the bridge and watched the cars and trucks swerving in and out. We would be fish out of water out there. We would continue on the old road. Pony Cart

Worried about food we cycled across to a service station and bought two sandwiches. The bread was puffy and warmed in their microwave but the meat was virtually non-existent. A little smear of dressing and one tiny piece of bologna. We sat outside or should I say jiggled and walked as we ate. Both of us needed a toilet and the Service Station declined our request. I went around the building to go on the wall but the guy came looking for me. They were treating us like homeless people, we continued to hold and rode.

When we merged with 112 we were along a river. Cat thought it looked like Colorado. Shortly we stopped at a store with a covered patio and picnic tables. Cat scooted right to the Ladies Room. I shopped for food. There was a stack of pastries and I watched a couple of people buy them. They smelled good, I had to have one. Cat came back around the building just as the microwave dinged its done sound. She chided me as I juggled the super hot morsel to a table. I liked the greasy taste, I convinced her to take a bite and she immediately ordered one. I had another, too. Colorado?

As I nibbled a lady drifted in on a cane. She was probably about my age and slightly overweight. She hovered near me then approached and used that sign of fingers together moving to the mouth to tell me that she was hungry. My first reaction was that she hadn’t missed many meals. I nodded, no, and she went to a table across from me and stared. I stared back then began to feel guilty. Here I was assuming that she wasn’t really hungry. I had just decided to buy her one of the pastries when she suddenly jumped up and almost ran to the front of the building. A bus pulled up and she jumped on board. Well, she did have bus fare so maybe she has food, too?

It took a long time to get from the City Limits of Kaunas to the old town. A sign sent us in a goofy direction. Concerned, we pulled up and asked a couple of girls who were walking by. They looked at the sign then said, “Yes, go that way to city.”

That was a 2 Km detour that soon had us back on the same route we had left at the behest of the girls. Over a bridge, we turned right and visited Kaunas Fortress. Asking we turned and cycled back toward the north. Feeling lost I asked a Cab Driver for the Tourist Info and he pointed straight ahead.

 

		Ride the Big Kauna The Big Kauna

We followed his direction and it turned out to be correct. Unfortunately with all of our delays we arrived at the door at 6:05 PM. The office had closed at 6:00. Cat noticed a lady inside and pounded on the door. As she yelled that we wanted a map a young girl stopped and said, “Here, I have a map you can take.” Her English was really good and it should be, Ellen is from Seattle, Washington. Cat was making headway so I chatted with Ellen. She is here as organizer of an event for the International Institute for the Study of Pain. She was late but did take time to meet Cat then scurried off to make sure the details of tonight’s big meeting were handled.

The lady inside the T.O. did pull through and gave us a map as well as a list of Hotels. She even marked a few. We tried a nice placed around the corner but they only had the high priced rooms available. Several extremely made up couples spent time at the desk, hovered in the lobby or stood in line with me. They were International Dance Contestants. That explained why the rooms here were booked up. We pushed back to the main and started to search for one on the list a few blocks away. I went around the corner in the direction of the place then came back. The neighborhood deteriorated as it moved away from the main. We decided to take a room at a Guest House on the main street. The room was a suite, an old stuffy feeling suite. We had to leave the bikes down stairs but the lady was great. We got both of them into a hallway and small room behind the front desk.

The list of restaurants was endless. Our decision making process was swamped by the choices. We walked to Pizza Jazz but it was really just a fast food place. Across the street was Pizza Arena. After being seated there we still felt uncomfortable. Up and out into the wet, again, we walked to the Bistro. The food was good and the wine, fine. There was a group of people talking and eating next to us. Three of the guys had to keep going to the patio to smoke. A young guy who was eating with them opened a case and pulled out a Saxophone. He played “Amazing Grace” in a fantastic jazz rendition. I wished that we had brought the camera. We asked if he would play more. I wanted to run to the Hotel and get the camera to take a little movie for the site. However he told us he had to go to work. He plays with a local band. The other guys had bought his dinner and he played for it. Nice guy, he is also on the board of directors and talent manager for the annual Kaunas Jazz Festival. Another one of the “Damn it, always bring the Camera” kind of moments.

May 4, 2003
Kaunas to Gudeliu
46 Kilometers

Today is Mothers Day here in Lithuania. As we ate Breakfast Ellen walked past on her exercise path. We hailed her on the way back. She joined us and we filled each other in on the details of our lives and travels. She works for the International Association for pain Management. Her title is “Meeting Planner” so she travels and checks places that might work for future meeting then attends and makes sure that the meetings go well. A really cool job if you like to travel. Her boy friend is Exec Director with Master Builders, similar to BIA, Building Industry Association in our area. I gave her our friends Tim Mc and Bill Mc’s phone numbers in Seattle. Either of them perhaps both may know her friend as they are both involved with development. After dashing upstairs to get the camera we forgot to take Ellen’s picture.

We rolled down the pedestrian street in wind and rain. The rain let up as we left town but the wind picked up. We blew down the road with a side tail wind for 12 Km then ran head on into head wind. From there we crawled at one point as slowly as 5 Km PH. Even worse, the road was under construction and there was no shoulder. We were on the edge of a drop off, with a heavy flow of truck and car traffic on our left.

We thought seriously about stopping at Garliava, just 14 KM OUT. We could see the Hotel but conferred and chose to struggle onward. We pulled up in just 7 Km in a village called Juragai. Asking for a Hotel at a small grocery store, they thought there was on just 2 Km further along at Mustaicai. We did find another small store there and a really nice family. The young girl spoke a little English. She got the point across that her Grandparents owned the store but have passed on and passed the store onto her Mother. They were so nice, even gave Cat two chocolate bars for energy. We were also able to figure out how to get them to say, “You must be Crazy”, in Lithuanian They sent us on down the road another 5 Km to a Hotel with big rocks in front of it. "You Must Be Crazy!", Lithuanian

The Granite Hotel was there but closed. A young guy sitting in a car seemed to be laughing at us? Old guy was trying to start a barbeque out back. We tried to talk with him but he was short with us, maybe because he couldn’t understand us. He did get the point across that they were closed. We thought that he might have been firing up the barbeque to cook for Mom? He strode quickly back to a house off to the right and a guy and girl came out. He looked sort of like our son-in-law David, big shoulders, and short haircut. He struggled with some English then took our map and pointed to Gudeliai, 10 Km further down the road.

At the City sign we turned left and sailed, with the wind, into the village and another small store. The checker there spoke only Lithuanian and German. He called a girl who spoke some English. They were positive that if we went back to the road and continued just 800 meters we would find a Hotel. Cat was worried, she remembered Alex, asking, riding, and asking. Okay that was in snow but the wind was cold and brutal. We had to gear down and press hard as we rode back I the head wind. Just as they had predicted there it was, an oasis, Gudeliu Karciama Hotel and Restaurant.

We pushed the bikes into the room then went directly to lunch, I was starving. Most of the diners were dressed, taking Mom out to lunch. I watched the orders coming out and one plate with a big round thing on it kept catching my eye. They brought us a menu in English, it was called Zeppelin. I had to have one, it’s their specialty. It was dough similar to dumplings with a ball of ground pork in the middle. Wonderful! I was afraid that it would hit bottom like a lead balloon but my body just absorbed.

Relaxing, after a shower, I even found a way to fine tune the TV. We watched the news on BBC, relaxed and worked on the journal. Later we had a glass of wine in the room then back to the restaurant for dinner. They served a wonderful fish dinner.

The owner or at least the guy who seems to be in charge may be Russian. At least when he spoke to others around him he used words like Da and Nyet. The two waitresses, Elge and Rasa were great, I had to have a picture with them.

May 5, 2003
Gudeliu to Suwalki, Poland
87 Kilometers

Breakfast in the room, they are working on the wall and ceiling and the smell of paint is in the air. Rasa had a hard tome trying to explain so she took us to the dining room. Then served a lovely omelet and plate of blinzky pancakes as we watched BBC.

Late start, we hit the road at 10:15. The most beautiful day we’ve seen in months. The wind has subsided and we enjoyed the fresh smell of countryside, farms and forest. The leaves are growing greener and grass deeper every day. We had lunch sitting on a wall next to a small store. Cat bought the leanest meat she could see and we truly enjoyed it with cheese and bread. I waited until the next day to ask how she liked it. She thought it tasted like smoked turkey. When I told her it was beef tongue she almost gagged. She wanted to know why I hadn’t told her yesterday but the answer was obvious.

Without hindrance from the wind, we really rolled on a flat, smooth highway. It was 4:00 Pm when we crossed the Border into Poland. Another of the “same old story,” stories. The Lithuanian Guard checked our passports then we shook his hand and told him we had enjoyed our visit. Then came the Polish side, what has been described as the last Communist style crossing into Europe. They had 3 checkpoints, we made the first, then skipped the second because we thought we were through. The Third Guard sent us back. The second just looked at our Passports and waved us on. The third just waved us on, the second time through.

Into Suwalki at 5:30 then we spent time looking for tourist office which once found we found it closed. Asking at a restaurant, the waitress came with us to the street and pointed to the right. We couldn’t tell if she was telling us it was close or a long ways away? It was just 2 blocks. Another old, tired looking Soviet style place. We stood there then saw a sign across the street, Hotel Private. At the top of a big downhill we really thought twice about whether to risk the down because if the place was BAD we would have to push back up. It turned out to be a great call on Cat’s part. The place was a gem. Not the same neat feeling of last night but nice. The woman who greeted us was a bit standoffish and began wheeling off prices. “Room is 120 Zalotys, 25 each for Dinner, 20 for parking the bikes in a garage, not allowed in room.” I was ready to push back up that damn hill, I didn’t like her attitude. Then she language locked and said, “I get Husband.” He was fantastic, he had worked in Chicago and spoke pretty good English. He had a great laugh. She, Hena, joined in, we were sure now that her original problem was simply language. What a great evening. He even invited us to use their computer to check our e-mail.

We had them do “You’re riding your bicycle around the world” and when it was her turn to say, “You must be crazy” she said “crazy” in English. We laughed, Jan told her to say in Polish and she said, “Gluppie”. He said, “She has said, Stupid.” That really made us laugh.  "You Must Be Crazy!", Polish

Jan and two other men were working the grounds. Hena, the wife and a gal working for them prepared our dinner. We had sweet wine and loved it. We also learned that we had crossed a time zone. We thought it was 9:00 PM when we went to eat but it was only 8:00. Dinner was a traditional bowl of Polish soup, and chicken cutlet. On the table was a small holder containing squares of wax paper. We wondered what they were for then got it, they were the napkins! We thought perhaps they would bring other napkins when we got our dinner, but no. We used all of them and we still needed something else to wipe our hands. Oh well…we began to call them “CutRight” napkins. (That will only make sense to some in the US. CutRight is a brand name for wax paper.)

The room was okay. Hena had shown Cat that the beds open up like the trunk of a car and the linen is inside. Jan came knocking, Cat who had just stepped out of the shower and toweled down, jumped under the covers, he burst in then said, “Okay, you know about beds and linen, once we forgot to tell a man and he slept on the bed in his coat and was cold all night.” Then he howled with that infectious laugh of his.

May 6, 2003
Suwalki to Rajgrod
59 Kilometers

Breakfast at 8:30, Hene was sleeping. Jan told us that they had filled every room last night and worked the bar and kitchen until 1:00 AM.

There was a new gal cooking, she also cleans the rooms. After a nice breakfast we settled up with Jan. The entire experience cost only 280 Zloty. We think that is about $70 US. What a bargain. I admired an old banner that Jan had in his office of Lenin and the Soviet times. He went into a drawer, pulled another out gave it to me. I tried to refuse but he insisted, he said he got them and the old Soviet Flag hanging on the wall at a swap meet. We took a picture of him with the flag. I asked about how they repatriated land when the Government change took place. He didn’t understand my question but said, “I and Hena work in Chicago, save money, come back and buy this place. We build house and Hotel.” He did talk about the difficulty with local building laws. He also told several stories of Police corruption in the old system and even today in Ukraine. He was doing import and export and driving to Turkey. He told of the way the police would stop you, tell you the fine then make new rules if you chose not to pay. What a nice man, we had to give him bear hugs when we left.

They are truly Capitalists, they’ve invested all of their money in another Hotel in a town called Goldap. Their daughter and son in law operate it. He is really proud of it. They haven’t made money, yet because they spent so much fixing and cleaning the place. It was an old Soviet Hotel and he had to redo all the plumbing, electrical, heating and windows. It is a resort town with a small ski area in the winter and a lake for summer visitors. We bet they’ll do well. As we pulled out of the drive we came upon two young guys spraying graffiti on a wall across from Hotel Private. Was there some meaning or significance? We don’t know. Graffiti

Polish countryside is rally quite beautiful. The farm houses sit well off the road most of the time. Storks continue to nestle in their nests. There is a phenomenon here that I have seen before in Yugoslavia. When a car crash takes someone’s life the families build shrines to their memory, at the site of the accident. They either have a lot of lives lost or the shrines of memorial stay for years? We passed through a town and began the quest for food. I watched a crew as they constructed a cobblestone street while Cat went asking.

 

	Getting Stoned

The road was rolling up and down today and the wind was not our friend. We struggled until 2:00 PM then stopped for a snack at a Service Station. From the limited menu we chose a Kielbasa, sort of, Polish Sausage with fries and an orange drink. Burped all the way to Rajgrod then let the wind drive us in. The small Hotel Pokoje has a lake in the back. The nice Lady spoke no English but she called her son, a Police Officer who had been to New York and worked there for 3 months in construction. He spoke enough to get us set up in the room and for breakfast. Cost 80 Zlot, about $20 US, we like these places and these prices.

We walked along lake, up to top of a hill overlooking the village and lakeshore, very beautiful. Dinner at local restaurant, chicken schnitzel and veal something. Again, the same wax paper sheets for napkins. As she brought our salads, the waitress dropped them breaking the plates and making a giant mess. She was embarrassed and had to squat next to us while cleaning the mess. I had an Ice cream bar for dessert. Back at the little Hotel we played a game of Pool. They have a nice game room and library. Having done all there was to do, we hit the bed early.

May 7, 2003
Rajgrod to Lomza
86 Kilometers

I awoke at 3:30 AM, revisited by the kielbasa and schnitzel no doubt. I just couldn’t go back to sleep. By 4:30 the room was already filling with sun! I just dozed until 6:45. Nice breakfast of eggs and juice, etc. then we were off by 8:30. Another nice, wind free ride. The road was thin but the traffic gave us plenty of room. The shoulder narrowed then disappeared and we rode on dirt for several kilometers at one point.

	Road Work Riders
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